Target Phrygia…
I had stopped in Afyon for a thermal hotel break years ago; but I hadn’t seen much of anything other than the water. Of course, I had heard of the sausage and the cream, but I was not aware that the city was a gastronomic paradise. I didn’t know about its historical and natural treasures at all.
That is until I visited Afyon last autumn. When we decided to stay there on route from south to north with my companion, my view of the city completely changed. First, the rich texture and delicious flavors of Afyon center seduced me. Then, as I headed north, I was blown away by its nature, rock formations and the ruins of Phrygia, one of the ancient civilizations of Anatolia.
We continued our journey without exploring it in sufficient detail because we didn’t have time then. But I had already decided to go back with my girls. We looked forward to visiting the valleys in winter and immersing ourselves in the warm thermal waters. We were finally able to schedule a weekend in February. We made a 3-day plan, exploring the route to and from Afyon as well. But it is also possible to squeeze the trip into two days by traveling at night or skipping a stop.
History & Art in Eskişehir…
I had been to Eskişehir several times. In fact, once I was a guest of Yılmaz Büyükerşen, who was the last Mayor at the time. We were hosted in a wonderful tour of the city with his guidance. Later, I had the opportunity to visit for different purposes too. But there were a few pieces missing… The focus of my recent interest, history, the Archaeological Museum; newly built OM, Odunpazarı Museum of Modern Art and the Exhibition of “Calm Lands”
So Eskişehir was the first stop of our route with an intense cultural and artistic agenda. We had a great time as we were all harmonious and focused on the börek, ravioli and halva!. We decided to start with the Archeology Museum before our stomachs started growling. Then, we left the car at the multi-storey car park in Odunpazarı and completed the remaining route on foot.
- Eskişehir Archeology Museum: This is an small museum with important pieces in the center of the city. The entrance is free with a Museum Card. Or you can pick it up at the door or from the app. The modern building design is very beautiful; especially the sunny big hall where the sarcophagi are located. But the displays are a bit dated; lighting and signage could be much better. However, you can get a pretty good idea of the heritage of the region with a short tour.
- Meal Break: We chose any of the Tatar Böreği shops with high scores near the square and sat down. We ordered pastry and ravioli. Although the pastries were not as crispy as we hoped they were delicious. The manti was good, but the one bite size spices had no taste. We left the halva shops with delicious fig and walnut summer halva in our bags. The real surprise came when we pursued the smells coming from the bakery next door… Yüce Işıklar Bakery Products The fresh hot bagels we bought were so delicious that we ate them all even after all that pastry!
- Eldem Art Area – Calm Lands Exhibition: One of my friends from high school is a versatile artists Evrim Kavcar and one is a plant painter Deniz Bozok. I had also met Kıymet Daştan thanks to Evrim. I ahd wanted to visit this gallery featuring works in the theme Calm Lands. So I dragged the team with me; and I’m glad I did… Located in a historical mansion complex, in Eldem Art Space we were moved by the wonderful artwork. Moreover, the place itself is beautifully restored & designed. It was an enjoyable visit that appealed to all the senses.
- Kurşunlu Social Complex: We entered the courtyard of the social complex, thinking that a short break would be enough since we had seen many similar places. But with its serene and lively atmosphere, the meerschaum exhibition and shops behind the mosque kept us there. While we admired the magnificent artisanship of the old, we were sad to see the souvenirs in the shops didn’t even come close.
- OM, Odunpazarı Museum of Modern Art: This special museum, which I was curious about both in terms of its architecture and its collection, was our last stop in Eskişehir. The entrance fee of 120 TL seemed reasonable; We bought our tickets and started touring from the lowest level. Particularly the wood-clad tower is the signature of the stylistic building. We took a group picture, went up to and viewed the complete collection. Some of the works were very impressive. I think it’s a must-see place.
Phrygia from Eskişehir to Afyon…
We were very excited to visit the Phrygian monuments, which were the focus of our trip, guided by my archaeology student friend. We set off from Eskişehir early and targeted the monuments area located in the middle of the distance to Afyon. We set the route to Yazılıkaya & Midas monuments, which are technically within the borders of Eskişehir but 1 hour away from Afyon. While passing through the magnificent snowy slopes, we scouted for other monuments in the region.
We managed to visit most of the ruins we targeted around Yazılıkaya, tracing a slight arc as we traveled from north to south. Our journey was brightened with little surprises such as frozen tiny streams and storks’ nests. The sun was setting when we completed our route and set off towards Afyonkarahisar centre.
- Gerdekkaya Monument: Our Phrygian tour started with this special rock tomb located at the northeastern end of the Monuments area. There was a bride and groom photo shoot when we arrived; it’s a truly photogenic area.
- Küçük Yazılıkaya Monument: This tiny monument, also known as the Areyastis Monument, is one of the rare written monuments left from the Phrygians. We think that Cybele, the most important goddess of this fertile land, was worshiped here. We parked the car by the road, next to an information sign, and walked a bit slightly uphill. The energy of the tomb was so intense, and the rock surface was so impressive that it made us improvise a prayer.
- Yazılıkaya / Midas Monument: This is one of the most important ruins in the region. The giant mausoleum, one of the rare Phrygian inscribed ruins, and the rock settlements are side by side. Moreover, you reach it by passing through a picturesque village. We also saw some cultural tourism signs in this village with stone buildings; the settlement texture was so intact that it showed the place was evidently been inhabited for thousands of years. We parked at the top of the village and climbed to the monument on a slightly sloped dirt road. And it drew us in with its magnificent view and majestic stance. We sat facing the valley for a while and enjoyed the idyllic view. We played with snowballs and we talked a little about Phrygia and its myths.
- Yapildak Asarkale: Unfortunately, we could not approach our next target, Asarkale, by vehicle. The ground was already muddy in places; We parked where the stream froze over and tried the dirt road. But we couldn’t find a proper path, so we walked around and took pictures from a distance.
- Lion Temple & Seljuk Tomb: When we reached the Lion Temple, we were extremely happy to have extended our way there. First of all, the rock tomb turned out to be much more impressive and important than we expected. The temple area, where Cybele was previously worshiped and overlooking the sunrise, was probably used as a tomb during the Roman period. Based on the inscription, it is thought to be the tomb of the heroic General Solon, who captured the Anatolian cities in the Roman period. It was also wonderful to wander around the remains called Yarım Konak, which was probably used since ancient times. It was also gorgeous to view at the valley and Kümbet Village from the top.
Gastro-Afyon
We arrived in Afyon center at dusk. Our goal was to fill eat before relaxing in our rental house with a thermal pool. Master Salim was our target. The meat dish with prunes and the eggplant pastry were amazing; but you can taste a variation of the food by ordering the chef’s plate. Of course, their creamy desserts are legendary… After we got over the shock that there was no tea service, we had our desserts to goso we could eat them at home.
We did the food & beverage shopping in these places:
IN AFYON:
- Master Salim: The right address for Ottoman cuisine and delicious desserts. It can be a little crowded on the weekend.
- Altınay Turkish Delight: The shop right at the beginning of Uzun Çarşı; it’s impossible to miss. The magnificent creamy delight was out of stock so we bought the one with walnuts; it was also incredibly delicious.
- Butcher Celal Sausages: We bought our sausages from here. I also bought bacon and roasted meat; but those were not as perfect as what I got from Kastamonu.
- Historical TaşHan: Taşhan is ideal if you want to take a tea or coffee break and shop from local artisans in a historical building.
IN GAZLIGÖL
- Aksu Oven: The most delicious poppy seed bun I’ve ever eaten in my life. Moreover, we learned here that simit comes in many varieties; the ones with cream, cheese, butter and tahini are legendary.
- Ünallar Butcher: This is also a recommended sausage spot.
- Manufacturer Şekerci Nuri: Real buffalo yoghurt and cream is here. But you need to order in advance. Mr. Nuri and his family make shipments to Istanbul twice a week.
Afyon & Phrygian Valley
With the pride of having made a quick introduction to Phrygia, we decided to enjoy the next day by exploring the other targets leisurely. And afterwards, we took a tea break at Emre Lake at the spot where the movie “AROG” was shot. Then we visited the old Afyon city center. Our only regret wasforgetting that the Afyonkarahisar Archeology Museum was closed on Monday.We wanted to see it so much we would have made the schedule different to include the museum earlier.
- Ayazini Rock Church: Located right at the entrance of the Phrygian Valley, centered on Ayazini, this rock-carved church was a good start to the Sunday route and the trip. The light was gorgeous early in the morning. You can also walk to the lion tomb and rock settlements from here.
- Ayazini Metropolis Multi-storey Settlement: Introduced as the world’s first apartment building, this multi-storey settlement carved into rocks is quite interesting. It is already located at the beginning of the valley.
- Ayazini Necropolis: Ayazini is a settlement that was home to people for thousands of years and still is. The necropolis located at the entrance of this village, intertwined with rock settlements, continues to be used as a cemetery today. The landscape we pass by, with rock tombs in the background and tombstones in the front, tells us about the continuity of civilization and that death is a part of life.
- Ayazini Village: It was lovely with its preserved texture, modest but cute buildings, streets decorated with evil eye beads or lavender, living spaces combined with settlements carved into rocks, and most of all, its surprising squares and courtyards. After wandering around quite a lot, we sat down for breakfast at a small family owned cafe. Everything with clotted cream, tahini molasses, eggs and sausage was great at Ayazma Cave Cafe Restaurant. They also surprised us with their delicious poppy paste. After the meal, we visited the shops and sat at another cafe that impressed us with its courtyard full of antiques in the shade of mulberries: Dutlu Bahçe is in Frighan Ayazini We drank sahlep with poppy seeds.
- Avdalaz Castle: These settlements carved into the rocks here were easy to defend and therefore frequently used for military purposes. Avdalaz Castle is one of these castles, which is very different from the standard castles we know and looks like cliffs with gullies from the outside. If you are not afraid of heights, you can climb up into it.
- Aslantaş Yılantaş Ruins: It was a very short but enjoyable visit. You can imagine the grandeur of the monument that once stood there from the size of the large stone ruins with lion carvings. Now there are very few pieces left; still, it’s is ideal for the lion’s mouth pose!
- Maltaş Ruins: In front of this rock tomb monument, newly landscaped, there is a sacred area where Cybele was worshiped. Thanks to the new arrangement, it was very impressive to sit on the steps and stare at the traces left from thousands of years ago. As we approached the ruins, we saw a magnificent bird with giant wings. We guessed that this domestic bird was a red hawk.
- Cold Vadisi Tabiat Parki and King’s Road: As we moved north from the Göynüş valley and approached this natural park, Cappadocia-like rock formations began to appear. When we climbed the winding road to the entrance of the park, there was a huge valley view in front of us. We proceeded a little further to see our target, the King’s Road. We parked our car at an intersection and followed the brown signs until we reached the ruins of the ancient road. It is a small part of an important route that actually covers most of Western Anatolia and bears the traces of thousands of years of caravans, military and civilian traffic. It’s a great spot to imagine the busiest time of this ancient highway, carved here layer by layer by the wheels of horse carriages.
- Emre Lake and Kırkmerdiven Rocks: The beauty of this tiny lake welcomes the view of natural formations around it. Some parts of the movie “AROG” was also shot here. Therefore, it has become a tourist attraction; but it is a modest place consisting of mules you can ride, set pieces and a man selling tea. Still, it is a nice stop… Moreover, the layer of ice on the surface of the water provided for more entertainment; especially when the wind blew and the ice started to pile up towards the shore.
- Afyonkarahisar Castle: We were wrong to assume we could easily climb up to this hawk’s nest castle perched on top of giant rocks in the heart of the city. More precisely, we miscalculated… We thought we would approach by car and leave at sunset. It turns out that it is a castle that can be climbed on foot with almost 700 steps. Moreover, these steps could freeze in winter. We did not risk it and we wandered around the streets instead.
- Afyon Streets and Houses: We had read that old Afyon houses were being restored on route to the Afyon Grand Mosque. But personally, I was a little disturbed by the lack of care I saw like in many mass restoration projects in our country. On one hand, I understand the economic and logistical difficulty of transforming the fabric of such a large area. On the other hand, I feel these buildings, which lack original details and experiences, are insincere, depthless and unreal. Moreover, I think this method is not sustainable; because they lose their originality and cease to be an attraction. Still, it’s much better than letting a city be completely destroyed and occupied by concrete blocks. Maybe it’s my extreme architectural sensitivity; it’s a subjective issue.
- Afyonkarahisar Grand Mosque: I always try to see the grand mosques of the cities I visit; especially if it is a Seljuk work like this. Afyon Grand Mosque did not disappoint; it actually fascinated me. I think it is one of the most beautiful buildings of the period, both technically and aesthetically, with its magnificent roof supported by giant wooden poles, muqarnas decorations on the tops of the columns, and its modest but impressive proportions. A must see!
- Afyonkarahisar Museum: We couldn’t go, you go… But I will go again!
Return Route Kütahya
Since we couldn’t visit the Afyon Museum, we set back home early… We had already targeted Kütahya to see somewhere new. Since we had plenty of time, we decided to visit a few places in here. Unfortunately, there are not so many options! There are only a handful of places to visit in the center you can cover an hour or two:
Ultimately, Afyon is a great destination for a 3 or 2-day trip… It appeals to every sense. History, nature and food stimulates every sense. Especially if you have access to thermal healing waters where you stay. But be careful, there are so many intellectual calories here!!!
