On the last sunny days of October, I had my eyes set on Kalymnos island. I made a plan to transfer from Kos for a day. Here is how I got there, what I did, what I ate, where I stayed step by step…
Transportation First:
I bought my ferry ticket from the ferry scanner website. I used the web, but the app is also good. After two nights with a friend in Kos, I embarked on my solo trip. I had a ticket for the Dodecanese ferry at 10:15 on Friday morning. The Kalymnos ferries depart from the harbor in front of the Kos castle walls; it’s directly opposite the Bodrum deck, at the other end of the port.
For the return trip, I bought a ticket for the Superfast ferry the next day at 11:10. Both because I wanted to grab a bite before heading from Kos to Bodrum that same day. Also, because these two options were the most convenient in terms of price and timing. However, there are plenty of choices.
Places to Visit:
I had done my research and marked the places I wanted to visit on my map. But I wasn’t sure how far I could go without a car. Indeed, upon arriving on the island, I realized that walkşng to the monastery on the hill wasn’t for the faint of heart. So I went to these:
- Museum of Kalimnos
- It closes early (2 PM), so it was the first one on my list; & it’s right in the middle of the harbor.
- It is a small but charming museum about the island’s maritime and sponge-fishing history. And it’s free!
- The host, Mr. Skevos is very friendly. As we parted, I found myself promising to guide him around Istanbul. 😀
- https://maps.app.goo.gl/FPiZctJkemki28rd6?g_st=ac
- Kelemez Archaeology Museum
- The museum closes at 3:30 PM, the last entry is at 3:00 PM. I recommend you visit earlier.
- I climbed the hill behind the harbor, heading north, and walked through the narrow streets. I enjoy walking to my target by strolling through the city.
- This is also another small but charming museum; definitely worth the 5 euro entrance fee. It has beautiful pieces on display.
- https://maps.app.goo.gl/LSf4E5bVNiARNu6f8?g_st=ac
- Chrysocheria Castle & Windmills
- No time limit, no ticket; you just walk up to it.
- I kept strolling through the streets to get to the castle. The map said it would take 27 minutes, but the last climb up the hill took a little longer! So I arrived at the castle a bit out of breath.
- I climbed the stairs to the top and enjoyed the view. There’s nothing to see inside the building so I followed the stairs towards the windmills.
- There’s a foot path between the castle and the windmills through the grass. I crossed it and walked around the windmills. The doors were locked, so there was no peeking inside
- There’s no direct path down to the street; I went back up to the top, to the level of the first windmill, and headed towards the center via a side road.
- https://maps.app.goo.gl/spVfy95zLNEAVzBH7?g_st=ac
- Sponge Shops
- There are sponge shops of all sizes in town, but two of them are very large. I walked past one and went into the one called Sponge Warehouse.
- https://maps.app.goo.gl/bMoWHDYhWxgcgoet5?g_st=ac
- Since sponge fishing is also well known in Türkiye, I was more interested in the handmade soaps made with tiny sponges in them.
Food:
I should mention that not every cafe / restaurant on the island was open at the end of the season. I had breakfast at a place that had a good rating on Google Maps on my way to my room.
Oasis Cafe Bar: https://maps.app.goo.gl/N9RoNDNkFJeewhx69?g_st=ac
I was not able to have dinner at the place I originally planned because it was also closed. I made a note to go later, because apparently it’s a famous fish restaurant with a large fishing fleet in the Aegean Sea. Instead, I went to another fish restaurant that was recommended.
First choice: Manios Fish Tavern
https://maps.app.goo.gl/XWRjb4C3SeFCTAnK7?g_st=ac
Second choice: Mamouzelos Seafood Restaurant – The fish of the day was delicious!
https://maps.app.goo.gl/yu1s8AuLwVvKQvMf7?g_st=ac
Accomodation:
I booked through Booking.com because I thought it would be more economical than Airbnb for my solo trip. The place I thought was a room, right behind the harbor, turned out to be an entire apartment. It was a 1+1 (one bedroom, one living room) on the second floor, owned by a sweet Greek lady. It was spotlessly clean and spacious, stylish, and had a big balcony in the front. All the windows had mosquito nets. And their generous offerings were wonderful… lots of fruit, desserts, wine, coffee, ice cream and snacks! The flat was comfortable and pleasant, within walking distance of everything.
https://goo.gl/maps/a1uH5h9HZtijCBuP9?g_st=ac
Check out Casa Bianca on Booking.com! https://www.booking.com/Share-0cz2Da
Beware!
- The ferry I used to go to the island and the ferry I took on the way back used different piers. The Dodekanios and other small/medium-sized ferries dock at the mouth of the harbor. The Superfast XI, which I took on the way back, was a large cruise ferry. It docked at a pier further down the harbor. Luckily, I arrived early, so I had time to walk to the other side in a hurry. It was about a 10-minute additional walk.
- Even at the end of the season, they have siesta hours on the island. Usually, on more touristy islands like Kos – especially during peak season – most places are open even during siesta. But here, most were closed from 3 PM to 6 PM. Also, restaurants generally open around 7 PM.
- The island’s main town lies on a southeast-northwest axis, surrounded by high hills on either side. So the sun disappears sooner than sunset behind these hills at this time of year. Therefore, it’s a good idea to bring an extra layer of clothing.
Conclusion:
I’ll definitely come back to Kalimnos! It is so lovely and it has such a heart warming feel…The cause might have been the apartment I stayed in or the mother and daughter who owned it. But because I did all the sightseeing in one day, I’d prefer to come back in a warmer season to enjoy the sea and other parts of the island.
There’s also a local delicacy from the island that I didn’t get to try:Spinialo (apparently it’s an appetizer made with sea urchin). I really want to try this special dish and the other mezes too. 😉
