Category: #WhereIsZeynox

I travel, Iobserve, I write

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Van, the Pearl of the East

Why and How?

Who wouldn’t remember Turkey’s largest lake from their first geography classes? That’s when I first wondered about Van. But then I forgot of course; it was too far away from my small world. Then during my secondary school years, I learned that my aunt’s husband, the eldest of the family, whom we called Enishte was from Van. I questioned him a bit but I don’t remember what he said. The topic was once again shelved for a long time. Until my mother retired and started traveling and went to Van with Enishte’s guidance. Over time, as my appetite to discover the treasures of my country grew, Van moved up in my list. And when I was preparing the digital content of the Urartian exhibition for the Rezan Has Museum, I became extremely curious. But work and priorities blocked my path. 

As I was able to spare more time to travel, explore and experience the world; I targeted my destinations not only by planning, but also by spontaneous decisions. And Van won the lottery from the airline discount campaign! Suddenly, I was choosing a destination for domestic flights at the end of October. With our cheap tickets purchased in advance, we arrived in Van with a journey that took approximately 2 hours from Istanbul airport.

Places to See in Van

I didn’t think we could visit all of the places we targeted in a three-night, three-and-a-half-day trip. Especially when it had started to get dark very early in the far east of Turkey. But we were a perfect team with my history and archeology enthusiast friends who loved traveling.We used time to the limits, starting the day very early, driving around the lake and consuming local delicacies in quantities way over our capacity. 

We used our time very efficiently; so I am listing our travel route in chronological order. … 

  • Van Museum: It was a great decision to start the trip from here… We not only saw the ruins unearthed from the entire region; we were informed on the history and culture of Van, especially its magnificent ancestors, the Urartians. Thus, we were able to plan the rest of our trip much easier and make better sense of what we saw. 
  • Tuşpa Castle: Tuşpa, the capital of the Urartian kingdom from the 9th century BC until its collapse, is the ancestor of the new Van city. The Castle, right next to the center, overlooks the entire region, the city, the lake and the mountains, from a majestic hill. Like many ruins, entrance to the castle is free with a Museum Card. You don’t need a physical card, you can form a QR code from the app on your phone. As you enter at the foot of the walls, it is worth going up the slope even just for the view. Unfortunately, there are not many ruins to visit inside the castle. But we found the real gem on our way back… As in all overlapping civilizations, many additions were made to the Urartu walls, including the Seljuk and Ottoman ones. While we were debating which wall was the oldest, we discovered a wonderful corner at the end of the road next to the cafeteria. We were fascinated by the cuneiform writings on the edge of a huge mass that remained intact from the Urartian city walls, the magnificent weeping willows next to it, and the fairy-tale beauty of the road going in. Moreover, it was a great spot to take photos. 
  • Çavuştepe: We went to Çavuştepe, an important trace of Urartu civilization, to see the fascinating temple ruins with cuneiform inscriptions on the stones, built with extraordinary precision for its time, and to meet the equally famous Mehmet Kuşman. When we had time left on our first day in Van, we drove here after visiting the museum and the castle. We breathed in the magical nature and history from this magnificent hill surrounded by steppes, bare mountains and green valleys. We ran our fingers over the cuneiform writings. We speculated about what else will be uncovered in the ongoing excavations. And finally we met Mehmet Kuşman. In fact, we had greeted the famous Urartian, who was working as the gatekeeper of the ruins, at the entrance. But first we had to see the site. On our way back, we did not miss the opportunity to visit his workshop in the stone building at the foot of the ruins and witness his story. Those who are curious can research him online or read Enver Şengül’s book, Keeper of Lost Time. Mehmet Kuşman is a rare gem; he has learned Urartian on his own and he is one of the few people in the world who knows this lost language and also can speak it. Proud to chat; we were excited to have our Urartian names written by him in our books which we bought from the workshop. You can visit Çavuştepe even just to meet this bright-eyed, old soul with a black cuneiform medallion. But beware, he may not be there in the off-season because he is constantly invited to speak in congresses and events. 
  • Van Lake Route: We set off at 6.30 in the morning in order to complete the journey around the lake in a day; it would roughly take 5-6 hours by car to go around if we did not stop. We arrived in Tatvan traveling on the mountain foothills and sometimes on the lakeside, accompanied by magnificently beautiful views. We took a road from Tatvan to Nemrut Crater, one of the important points of our route (this is not our famous Mount Nemrut, but the second one). Then we went back to Tatvan and then drove to Van via Ahlat, Adilcevaz, Sodalı Göl and Eriş. When the sun, which had warmed us all day long, disappeared into the red sky over the lake, it suddenly got cold and we ran inside to eat. 
  • Nemrut Crater Lake: We wanted to see this unique place, which is one of the largest volcanic crater lakes not only in Turkey but in the world. It was truly worth the journey… Starting from the Van lake view as we drove up the stone-paved road, to snow-covered slopes to green valleys, from stony shores to blue lakes and ponds the view was breathtakingly beautiful. We went as far as we could by car near the water. We did not insist on traveling more on foot, fearing the reputation of the bears that were released into the wild here years ago. But the whole thing was a wonderful experience, from its clear waters reflecting the sky like a mirror to the snowball fight at the edge of the crater. 
  • Ahlat: Ahlat, a charming settlement on the shores of the lake, is most famous for its Seljuk period ruins. The architectural appearance of the new town is in harmony with the old, as they are covered with local stones. This type of conservation and city planning should be an example for many places in Van.
    • Archaeological Museum: The small but charming museum deserves a short visit. It’s right next to the cemeteries anyway. 
    • Seljuk Cemetery: This is the largest ancient Muslim cemetery in the world. The individual Seljuk tombstones are as impressive as the huge size of the area they cover, or even more so. Each of the rectangular stone blocks, some grand and some smaller in size, are all crafted like fine lace, each telling a unique story. 
    • Tombs: The largest and most impressive monumental tombs of the region are here. I recommend to visit at least one; they take a short time to see. The unique geometry, the lighting, the earthy colors and the peaceful atmosphere is worth it. 
  • Adilcevaz: We did not have time to visit the ruins here; But we had a wonderful breakfast. 
  • Sodalı Lake & Süphan Mountain: Süphan Mountain, which seemed to be watching all over the land from the southern shores of the lake, started to look friendlier as we moved north. As I approached the snowy peaks, I compared Süphan to my Enishte, who always sat silent and stoic in a corner; I had respected him with a touch of fear… A giant who was both very close and far away, protecting and watching but not too intimate. From Sodalı Lake, a small pond on the edge of Lake Van, Süphan seemed to be staring into the distance with a slightly worn-out splendor. 
  • Ahtamar Island: We reserved Van’s most famous site for last. On the third day, we set out early in the morning to ride the Aghtamar ferries. We arrived at the pier just ahead of Gevaş with the sun at our back. We boarded around 9 o’clock and we were on the island in less than half an hour. First we objected to the boat returning in 1.5 hours. But even though it seemed too long, it was barely enough. The church itself is very impressive, structurally and with its reliefs. If you are curious you can eavesdrop on one of the tour groups that are frequent on the island; the stories are also very interesting. The interior is also impressive; especially the proportions and the magnificent light filtering through the small windows. It somewhat resembles the ruins of Ani in Kars. But this rare jewel, which is completely preserved along with the island, shines in a different way. Definitely worth half a day. 
  • Van Bazaar: Unfortunately, there is not much left of the old town in the city of Van. There is no old bazaar, no preserved neighborhood or even a block. After much research and inquiry, we heard about a “Russian Market” when we asked for souvenirs. Consisting of these few streets in the city center, it is now known as European Public Market So we did not return home empty-handed. In fact, we found more than we were looking for; there were antique treasures in a few shops that seemed to sell only trinkets. While my friends were spending most of their time there, I had already set my sights on the rug shop on the corner. With a little bargaining, I bought a wonderful rug, the largest size I could fit in my suitcase, at an affordable price. I filled my quota with a few souvenirs and a bracelet from the coppersmiths. 

Things we couldn’t go to

These are the other places in and around Van that are reserved for our next time because we ran out of time or they were a little too far away: 

  • Ahlat Ruined City
  • Ahlat Madavans Valley
  • Kef Castle
  • Hoşap Castle
  • Muradiye Waterfall
  • Dönemeç Waterfall
  • Seven Churches & Yoncatepe Necropolis
  • Süphan Mountain Trekking Route
  • Vanadokya Fairy Chimneys
  • Van Başkale Akçalı Travertines
  • Bakhchisaray
  • hizan

Where and What to Eat in Van?

We took the guidance of friends who have been to Van before or those who have lived there, the internet for our taste buds. We couldn’t try everything and some the ones we did try weren’t all great. These are the gastronomy stars of the Van trip: 

  • Urartu Khan: The food on the first night was so delicious we went there the second night. In the first one, we ordered stuffed onions to the Han Sofrası menu, which is a tasting assortment of local delicacies; It was all amazing. We tried other flavors for the second time; they were all delicious and special. We also came here for breakfast last morning after a bad experience elsewhere. We had the best Van breakfast here and we returned home with our stomachs full enough for a few days. 
  • Kuşhane: This place was closed on our second night so we went on our last night… We were not very hungry, so we were thinking of ordering only dessert. But we ate almost all the remaining local dishes. This was a special place that made us happy with wonderful tastes, with its small but cute, original decoration and elegant service. 
  • Ahlat Sofrasi: As we were leaving Ahlat and heading towards the north of the lake, we stopped at Adilcevaz because we were very hungry. Since we missed breakfast time and the electricity was out, we ate whatever was available. But what we had was modest in appearance but very very tasty. The fried eggs with meat were legendary, and the walnut and pear jams were flavors we could never find again. 

Lake Pearl

Even as the plane lands at the airport by the lake, the vast blue of Lake Van view is dazzling. From the moment we climbed to the castle, this blue giant surrounded by majestic mountains captured our souls. We were feeling like we were by the sea, but not quite. The pieces came together when I checked the altitude on the second day. The lake was at an altitude of 1700 meters! This was the reason for the softness and harshness, cuteness and the scariness at the same time. 

According to the internet,  the shores of the lake, which is not very hot even in summer, serve as the summer resort of the region. We decided to come again in summer and swim in the lake, to enjoy one of the sandy beaches on the Adilcevaz side. There were natural and historical spots left that we did not have the opportunity to visit anyway. 

We will visit Van again to see the damper side of it, especially the cool waterfalls. We also did not have the opportunity to taste the famous pearl mullet this time, neither fresh nor in the impressive dried form we saw in the market. We certainly intend to come back to Van, the pearl of Eastern Anatolia, still behind its shells, silently waiting for the moment when it will shine…

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Is Rhodes Really a Greek Island?

The Popular Destination

Rhodes is a huge island at the far east of mainland Greece… But it really doesn’t look like a Greek island. When you first step in, Rhodes city welcomes you with its imposing castle, the legacy of the knights,and it is very different from other Greek islands with its environment & ambiance

The center of Rhodes, where the medieval style dominates, has nothing to do with the well known image of the Aegean islands. You’ll seek in vain to see white houses with blue painted window sills. You may find the closest to this postcard-style in Lindos, the southern jewel of the island, but even this place does not fit into that common stereotype. 

The locals of the island, built on the ancient trade routes of the Mediterranean, are a diverse mixture and therefore the culture is very colorful. Moreover, it is a highly preferred destination and attracts flocks from all over the world from giant cruise ships to buzzing air traffic, so the streets are always full of tourists.

There are ferries from Bodrum, Marmaris and Fethiye ports in Turkey. The journey takes between 1.5-3 hours depending on the location. We crossed on foot from Fethiye, which is a quite small port; we had to wait a bit in line, but it was quick. The port of Rhodes itself is very large but has a very disorganized system; Still, we progressed quickly through the gates. In my opinion, there is no need to go to the port early either on departure or return. But just so you know, you pay an extra port tax of up to 20 euros in both directions, in addition to the ticket. 

Where to Stay?

You can stay anywhere on the island; the shores are full of hotels of all kinds. Facilities, beaches and water sports centers are lined up as you exit the airport on the north to the center. A similar variation exists on the southern coast, especially around Lindos. 

Your preferences are important when it comes to choosing a place because there is plenty of variety. It depends on whether you want to dive into the sea as soon as you leave your room / house or feel like a traveler going through the portals of history. Personally, I prefer to stay in the throbbing heart of the places I visit, where I can get a little bit of everything. I get soaked in the culture, from site seeing to shopping, from food to museums. Especially if we are going to stay for a long time, we choose houses where we can get comfortable with our own kitchen. Therefore, we rented a house for a week inside the old town in Rhodes.

We also rented a car to travel all around the island. But beware, only those who live there can permanently park their cars inside the old town walls. So it is not possible to park right in front of your residence while staying in the old city. However, it is very easy to park somewhere nearby and walk a little. 

Alternatively, you can try the area around Lindos to stay somewhere closer to the beach. This area has beautiful beaches, marine life and creamy water. Moreover, Lindos center, built on the old settlement and right next to the acropolis, is a pleasant environment with its white-painted houses and narrow streets that remind you of old Bodrum. 

Choose As You Please

You can go to Rhodes for any combination of culture & history / nature & sea / gastronomy / shopping options. Or if you choose option D like me, that is all of them; here is the list: 

  • Culture & History:
    • Rhodes Castle and Medieval City: Whether you walk around it or wander its streets; By all means, I recommend spending at least one day here. It is a must to sip a caffeinated or soft drink in one of the venues with a courtyard. 
  • Rhodes Quartet: You do not need to allocate the same time to each of these four, but their tickets are sold jointly, so it would be better to buy a combination. It’s all very close anyway.
  • Archaeological Museum: The building itself is exquisite and so are the pieces inside. We finished it in half a day, but you can even spend from an hour to a full day there. Moreover, it has cute gardens and a sweet cafe with delicious portacolapita.
  • Rhodes Cathedral: A short visit is enough, but the place is impressive. The tickets are not sold separately. 
  • Museum of Decorative Artsi: Small but beautiful pieces; a short but satisfying visit. 
  • Rhodes Acropolis Archaeological Park: We went there to complete our pilgrimage, but it wasn’t very impressive. The temple is hardly standing, and other restorations are mediocre. You can walk around in an hour. 
  • Lindos Acropolis and Settlement: The most impressive remains in the island; Although the structures are partially standing and the restoration is still mediocre, the site is breathtaking with its panoramic location. Moreover, the winding road up to it, the ancient ship relief on the walls and the exquisite view of the temple are all worth the climb. Although you can take a donkey ride from the square too, I think it is worth walking. From the temple, you can watch the turquoise waters on one side and the buzzy streets of the ancient settlement on the other. 
  • Kamiros Ancient City: The three sons of the titan god Helios, who is also the symbol of Rhodes in mythology, and his wife Rhodes founded three separate cities on the island. This third one is an archaeological park on the northern shores, about 1 hour away from the center. It is not really exciting like Lindos, which is a town still alive. But it is not as dull as the acropolis of Rhodes; it’s somewhere in between… If you have time, you can spare a few hours or make a stop on the northern route. 
  • monasteries: As in every Greek island, there are many monasteries on the hills overlooking the view. Since we did not come across anything with a particularly historical or structural importance, we chose one at random on our way. From where we parked, we went up a long, steep hill and then climbed a staircase of 300 steps. You will like a place if you make all that effort! In the Virgin Mary Chapel We planted two candles, whistled to the panorama and went back down. 
  • Nature & Sea:
    • Rhodes City Beaches: City beaches, which you can easily reach even by walking, are both practical and enjoyable. We found a very comfortable place to relax on a weekday. The water was great too; it was a great way to enjoy the rest of the day after wandering around the city. The north side may be a little windy and wavy depending on the weather, but once you turn south from the little cape, the sea becomes calm.
    • Anthony Quinn Koyu: I’ve never swum in a natural aquarium like this before! The rocky bay beach gets shaded quickly due to the narrow and steep slopes. But it definitely deserves to be popular at all times of the year. It’s a great place to swim among giant flocks of sea bream and watch all kinds of aquatic creatures. The most expensive sun lounger and umbrella prices on the island are here; but laying a towel on the shore is free.  
  • Tsambika Beach: There are multiple facilities on this long sandy beach. Both the water sports section at one end and the nude beach section at the other are among the options. Although the water basin is not as lively as Anthony Quinn Bay, the marine life is still beautiful. But the water is so soft and feels so good that it made us wonder if we were in a spa. Actually, all the waters of island feel good but this place was the best. 
  • Prasonisi Beach: This is the southernmost tip of the island. Like the north, it has two different shores on both sides; but the contrast is greater here.At the north shores, a wide variety of surfing and windy sports are performed. The south side is quieter and more peaceful, but still offers some pleasant eye candy of surfers.
  • Lindos Beach: This is a place to kill two birds with one stone… We didn’t go down, but it looked nice. Be careful it might be a little crowded; the evenings are calmer. 

Followers of Vedat Milor

I love hunting for local flavors from various sources wherever I go. But the ones I trust most and follow with enthusiasm are Turkish gurme Vedat Milor’s recommendations. Before going to Rhodes, we listed the spots he mentioned. I am adding our own discoveries to it here… 

  • TAMAM Restaurant: This is a wonderful place; Tamam did not only met the expectations we heard from Mr. Vedat, but exceeded them. Green salad, cheese salad, mushrooms with white wine, octopus with orange sauce, lamb and pork… all were excellent flavors.  Moreover, the treats of the owner, Mr. Andreas, to our vegan friends made a great impression on the table. And homemade orange liqueur was the most amazing liqueur I’ve ever tasted! My only reason for deducting one star from the place is the plastic greens on the roof. It’s not obvious from afar, but I wish they were real. Still, it’s the only place on the island we went to eat for the second time!
  • Stegna Kozas: We found legendary flavors of Mr.Vedat’s taste here, too. For example, I have never tasted such a delicious fish egg dish in my life! The calamari with ink sauce and the shellfish plate called “orgasm” were both excellent. Frankly speaking, the fish was a bit too much both in terms of quantity and price; It makes more sense to order more of the appetizers here. It was the most expensive place we went to. We paid 60 E per person, but frankly we ate too much. 
  • Mageirotechneio Taverna Paraga: This is a gem right in the middle of the island, in the mountains at its heart. We were a little late because we spent too much time at the beach. If we had gone earlier we could have enjoyed the magnificent view longer. Moreover, we came across a deer on the road and made eye contact with it. And later a gazelle appeared right in front of uson the road! The drive was long but the taste was definitely worth it. The best lamb tandoori I have ever tasted in my life was here. Everything was delicious, especially their own special bread kinds. Our host was very gracious and sincere. I would come back to Rhodes just to eat here again.
  • Peskesi Greek Cuisine: It is a modest but delicious establishment on the north shore of the city, where you can enjoy watching the sunset. The steamed mussels were amazing. 
  • Zebrano Cafe Restaurant Bar: It’s a magnificent place right next to the museums and attached to the wall of the cathedral. Examining the details of the buildings and sitting in the shadow of the exquisite vines and flowers surrounding them relaxes you so much. We didn’t have the opportunity to eat the first time, but the courtyard was so attractive that we went again. I recommend stopping by, even just for a drink. 

The Island Thing

Rhodes deserves to be an attractive destination… It is perfect for both culture, nature and sea tourism. But that’s exactly why it’s a bit too touristy. There is still the opportunity to escape the crowds and have original experiences. I really recommend going at the end of the season, not in the summer; maybe October. Even then there were times when we were exhausted by the heat. But the planning of the towns allows you to make your own discoveries by frequently escaping to small stress from the main ones even in crowded areas. 

We traveled as a group of girls and Rhodes impressed each of us the most with its water quality! The sea, the river, the water flowing from the shower… The feeling of the water was so soft and relaxing that it amazed us all. After a week on the island, our hair and skin were so beautiful that it was as if we had a spa experience. One of us even said he would settle here just for the water! 

But I cannot say that Rhodes is impressive as a whole spatial experience and it does not fit the classical image of the Greek islands. I might say it is not similar to a fashion show that blows your mind or a giant concert that you sing along or scream to. It’s more like a huge store where you can find stylish pieces that fit you perfectly. Or like the celebrity festival where the idols you admire sing a few songs. Of course, the medieval festival we came across at the weekend during our stay added to the excitement of our adventure… Being in Rhodes in the first week of October is lucky in this respect; you can make a note of that. 

After all, Rhodes is so different that I think it is not right to compare it with other Greek islands. Starting from the castle, which welcomes you with its strong masculine energy as soon as you set foot, we felt like we were in another mainland country throughout our journey rather than a Greek Island fantasy. Even though we had the opportunity to make a roundtrip around it, it was not possible to experience every point in depth of course. However, I can say that it was a a satisfying vacation. 

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A Ladle in the Sicily Cauldron

On the Trail of Greek Colonies

Since I had traveled extensively on the Italian mainland a long time ago and had no time for Sicily, this Mediterranean island had been on my mind for a while. A friend’s invitation was the occasion; I was in Sicily this summer for three weeks. I traveled the island and some on the heel of the boot in the mainland.

Sicily is one of the distant lands where first Greek colonies were first established. That’s why it is home to the oldest Hellenistic ruins in Europe. Moreover, this huge island, in the middle of the Mediterranean basin, is the playground of power and migration. That’s why it has been a cauldron of civilizations for centuries; similar to our Anatolia. Therefore, we warm up to it immediately… both spiritually and physically!

At the time, there was only a direct flight from Istanbul to Sicily via Catania. But I didn’t visit this city, which is one of the largest cities on the island. I went directly to Syracuse, one of the oldest and most famous settlements. It was also the epicenter of the program I was invited to. The aim of the program was a summer school with the design academy MADE to infuse European and cultural knowledge into American design students. I had the opportunity to accompany the team’s Sicily adventure as an observer upon the invitation of my host, designer and instructor Carey Watters.

Syracuse at night

Living in Syracuse

Since I stayed the longest in Syracuse, the city became like home. Sometimes we made daily trips to various parts of the island from here. Sometimes we let ourselves go to the rhythm of this slow town. We stayed in the old center, which carries the patina of the past on its streets and facades. Ortigia, the island at the tip of the island, is like the historical peninsula of Istanbul.

It’s possible to walk around the entire area connected to the mainland by two side-by-side bridges. In fact, it is recommended; because driving is a problem. Both Sicily’s difficult-to-decipher parking rules and some narrow one-way streets are just like Sultanahmet. After arriving from Catania to Syracuse on a frequently scheduled bus, we took a taxi to our apartment and traveled mostly on foot. Everything is within walking distance anyway. We also took buses from the stop on the edge of the island for group excursions. We only rented a car for a few days to places we specifically wanted to visit.

To those planning a trip to Sicily, no matter which route you follow, I suggest to make a base town and get familiar with its streets, the people and the food. In other words, instead of visiting touristic places one after another, I recommend that you choose a center and synchronize your five senses there. That’s what I did; I’m very happy with the result. Moreover, I managed to see many of the most famous places on the island.

Important note: Time is slow in Sicily. So if you’re in a hurry, it can be hard. Therefore, it’s useful to adjust your rhythm of life accordingly. In fact, their way of working is very similar to ours, the Turks. Both in slowness, lack of planning and the capacity to let go. After all, we have the Mediterranean spirit – children of the same climate.

I am writing my entire Sicily and southern Italy route at the end of the article with map links. You can pick from those… But I would like to note the ones that impressed me the most here:

  • Archaeological Park: In addition to the ruins of the old city, one of the first Greek colonies, there are also traces from the Roman period. But the most impressive part is the quarries that provided resources for the construction of the region and the giant statues placed in this area. The majority of the Igor Mitoraj – a scuptor of Polish origin – collection is located in the Syracuse Archaeological Site and is truly impressive. The works inspired by mythology and especially Icarus are dazzling. Igor Mitoraj’s works, which can be seen in other historical places in Sicily too, are like traces from history.
  • Archaeological Museum: There are many, many displays… Not only from this city but also from other ruins of the island. Frankly, I was not very impressed by the displays of piles, not selecting important ones and highlighting them. But it is very rich in content for those who are interested. Especially the special hall where the most beautiful coins are exhibited is worth seeing.
  • Ortigia Island Streets: I would say at least one day, but the ideal is to experience different routes for a few days. Moreover, there are tiny beaches on the edge of the city where you can dive into the Mediterranean from the rocks.
  • Temple of Apollo: At the entrance of the island, it is the most touristic place; impossible to miss. Make a few prayers; after all he is the prophet god.
  • Fish Market: Seafood, a must for every southern Italy and Sicily themed trip, is on display here. You can taste them all, either as a mixture or one by one. I tried them all, from mixed fries in a cone to a delicatessen plate and I was not disappointed. A part of it is reserved for souvenirs. The prices are normal; more or less the same everywhere. However, the market is open early in the morning and closed in the afternoon every day; don’t miss out. 
  • Puppet Museum: A tiny private museum. Ideal for seeing the history of Syracuse-specific puppet models and its most beautiful examples. There is also a show, but I didn’t watch that.
  • The Fort: I saw it from afar and had the impression that there was no need to visit first. But later when I went in I was glad. It’s has a great view of the island and it is impressive to see the volcanic rocks in the vaults of the high-ceilinged main hall. There are also works of art scattered around; it’s definitely worth spending an hour or two.
  • San Giovanni Catacombs: Another catacomb I thought at first. But I saw these andI suggest you don’t skip them. It’s so big and impressive that we were glad to put on a helmet and do a half-hour tour.
  • Piazza Santa Lucia flea market: I became a flea market enthusiast in my mother’s footsteps; I chase them in every city I go to. But this one is different! So much so that I went two weeks. It is set up on Sunday mornings and closes in the afternoons. There are rare pieces waiting to be discovered here, along with second hand items, antiques, and junk too. I bought Italian original old comic books, a few old pieces of jewelry, and a couple of new dresses. There is old stuff on one side, food on the other, and new materials in a corner like our markets.
  • Madonna delle Lacrime Cathedral: I visited this relatively new, modern cathedral partly out of professional curiosity. It is like a giant monument built in the transition period of Fascist Italy to modern times. I was impressed by the building itself and the feelings felt under that pyramidal structure. It is a matter of taste, a different atmosphere. You can also see the story and memories of one of the Catholic miracles in the small museum underneath.

What To Eat

  • Traditional Sicilian table in an old courtyard, economical menu warm people

Il Cortile di Archimede-Bistrot Ristorante in Ortigia Siracusa 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/pBUPLgsrHvZSwZjE7

  • Taverna Giudecca Food Drink & Shop Wine a Ortigia

A charcuterie plate that is this delicious and aesthetic! The best we’ve eaten. Local wine and beer are both affordable and delicious. We loved it so much we went back the next night. The cuttlefish ink and calamari arancinos are the best I’ve had in Sicily. The plates are satisfying both for the eyes and the stomach.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/8cyfJ9oku2ovcYdNA

  • Trattoria La Foglia

A wonderful venue with great attention to detail, delicious food and table wine. A bit expensive compared to others

https://maps.app.goo.gl/hpKzoja3tuvxb4GK6

  • For Arancino, the Sicilian street food, this is the place:

Antica Giudecca – Pizzeria, Biscotti, Arancini, Take Away

Think of it like a bakery, it has two tables but it is actually for take out

https://maps.app.goo.gl/W5f6yzhNCw1kP8Md8

Ice Cream Shops:

  • Gelateria Belfiore Gelato & Cioccolato 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/wCh6Y5EnKfMuqLgt5

  • Viola Espresso Bar

https://maps.app.goo.gl/9encpDhUxbFZvoo27

Jewels of Sicily

I will leave the most cosmopolitan, most vibrant city of the island, Palermo, for last, as we did on the route. Apart from that, here are some of the touristic spots:

Taormina

Built on a very steep slope, the city is one of the most touristic places in Sicily. Both the neatly restored Greek/Roman Theater and the ruins around it and the streets with preserved buildings are truly impressive. But neither the pedestrian street Corso Umberto, adorned with luxury brands, nor the balconies on the facades were enough to make me ecstatic. Yes, you should visit it, but a day will suffice. I especially found the crowded pedestrian traffic & the hot sun repulsive. The gardens of Villa Comunale di Taormina, where we took refuge while trying to escape from this chaos, were a heavenly breeze. It is both adorned with Roman ruins and surrounded by wonderful gardens and the view is magnificent.

The bakery-like cafe that we went to did not disappoint us. We ate our Arancinos here; we liked the spinach and cheese one the most: Rosticceria Da Cristina 2 – https://maps.app.goo.gl/AdqrKJGLmDWdgR1H6 

There is also a cable car from the hills of Taormina to the beach. We saw it when we drove down the winding roads and reached the seaside. But there is a close island across from one of its few famous beaches that you can walk to: There is also a chapel on this island of Isola Bella. The water is cool and rocky, there is a public beach and facilities right by the sea, but a bit expensive.

Agrigento – Valley of Temples

Don’t leave Sicily without seeing this Valley of Temples. The city Agrigento, the richest of the Greek colonies of the period, built majestic temples on a hill, seven of which have been restored and can be visited. It is impossible not to be impressed as you proceed along the ancient road, spiced by the fallen Icarus, another work by Igor Mitoraj. We also realized how magnificent, rich, deep and ancient our Anatolian heritage is. As we do in every European trip, the fact that Turkey’s cultural and natural heritage does not hold the importance, attention and interest it deserves makes our hearts ache.

Villa Romana del Casale

Villa Romana del Casale is a Roman mansion that has been preserved as a whole since it was buried underground due to a landslide and it has been restored beautifully. We do have a lot of mosaics in Turkey too but it’s with the visit Especially bikini girls are very popular and famous. But I liked the big hall where mythological stories and eccentric animal mosaics are.

Etna National Park

When else can you come this close to an active volcano? It is a rare piece of nature and Etna National Park has wonderful trails where you can walk with well-equipped guides. Both the landscape is legendary and the shades on the earth from different Etna eruption periods are fascinating. It has a unique climate, so I recommend that you go prepared. There are also cafeterias and gşft shops selling volcanic stone ornaments. I regret not buying more of the red 70% alcohol  Etna liqueurs, what a delicious drink!

Noto

Another rich city… But this one is not so ancient. I recommend to set aside a day to wander the streets and visit the inside of a few Baroque architecture’s jewel-like buildings and mansions. The day we visited, a classic car tour was passing by here! What fun and commotion was watching the aunties and uncles in these vehicles straight out of the movies wave goodbye to us! We were lucky in both timing and finding a delicious break too…

Legendary arancinos are here: I loved the pistachio and cheese one… Rosticceria Palermitana Arancina Planet – https://maps.app.goo.gl/Gv99U1e6jV2nx7FP6 

The best ice cream I’ve ever had was here: Try the ricotta and pistachio one… Caffè Sicilia – https://maps.app.goo.gl/bax5kVj3sKRDEokv6 

Modica

This small city was founded at a junction where three deep valleys meet inland. You can climb the stairs or the steep slopes and view the baroque architecture and the valley. It is also home to Italy’s oldest cold-pressed chocolate makers and a chocolate museum. Although I can’t say it’s the best chocolate I’ve ever tasted you can shop for quality delicacies here: Antica Dolceria Bonajuto – https://maps.app.goo.gl/KyXWCRmxsvNeLmEY8  I ​​think half a day is enough for the city.

Marzamemi

This place is actually a small fishing town; but it’s famous for the fish restaurants around the tiny square that was preserved. We had dinner with excellent fish, shrimps and calamari pasta at the restaurant recommended: Al Boccone – https://maps.app.goo.gl/cJbZX7dMA7JKcnEJ8 

The City of Palermo

As I said, it’s the most cosmopolitan, most vibrant city on the island… Staying in the heart of Palermo, right in the middle of that famous marketplace allowed us to experience the chaos to the fullest. We came to the Chiesa del Carmine Maggiore Monastery guesthouse with the hope of an economical and clean accommodation. Monastery accommodations are a method widely used in Europe, especially in Italy. Usually, they do not upset the guests who have low comfort expectations, but we were a little bit disappointed this time. The building was shabby, the sheets were very thin, the hygiene was mediocre, and the comfort level was below average. Moreover, the market that setup at around 6 in the morning roamed until the evening with shouting, sometimes music and dancing. So I can’t say I would recommend it, but it was a different experience. When you left the room to go to the courtyard, the only area with internet reception, the picturesque beauty and serenity of the environment did carry a natural sense of enlightenment. It also had  a direct connection to the church and the bell tower. A breakfast consisting of croissants, jam, yogurt and coffee was not satisfactory. That’s why we preferred to eat from the vendors and shops in the market.

We took the Street Food Tour on the first day and ate the local flavors with a guide. During the half-day walk, we ate snacks standing or occasionally sitting at the famous places. We spent the rest of our time shopping at the market. I have to mention that the ricotta cheeses are legendary!

Of course, we visited most of the top tourist spots of Palermo. I am sharing them in the location list. But the Norman Palace and the famous chapel inside fascinated me the most… I have never seen such beautiful and magnificent mosaics. Moreover, the workmanship of the muqarnas decoration on the ceiling is a show

The archaeological museum and private museums are also beautiful, a better exhibition environment than the one in Syracuse. The buildings are also very enjoyable, and you can feel life in ancient times in the displays. I recommend seeing the giant Palermo Cathedral at night, especially for travelers who are tired of seeing baroque architecture; you can climb up to its illuminated roof and view the city. There is also a free special exhibition called No Mafia Museum; you can see the history of the mafia and its victims.

In short, although it did not astonish me visually and spiritually as other cities in Sicily and the chaotic energy, similar to Istanbul, is a bit tiring. But I would like to go to Palermo again to see the places  I missed & walk around the streets. Unfortunately the streets are very dirty, there is garbage everywhere. Palermo is also an impressive stop in Sicily. Moreover, there are now direct flights!

The Cauldron Issue

In fact, in the last part of the three-week route, we also visited the southern parts of the Italian mainland for a few days before going to Palermo. This land is also magnificent and consists of regions with their own characteristics. It is possible to go from the northern shores to the southern Mediterranean waters, from the west to the mountains of the east in a matter of hours. The atmosphere and energy of each is different. There are also plenty of ghost towns; the ones where the legends of buying a house for 5/10 Euros are famous. But I will not go into the details of this part of the trip; both because I do not feel I have done it justice to it. But I will share our route. I definitely recommend each of them.

Now, about the ladle of Sicily… In short, this rare piece of land that has been the cauldron of civilization in the Mediterranean does deserve your time. Whether you like history, food or nature, it is beautiful with a diverse culture. Although I stayed quite long, I could not quite succeed in visiting everywhere. But it was wonderful to be the ladle that tasted this cauldron of experience. I’ll go again!

Sicily May 2024 Route

Syracusa

Taormina 

Noto

Modica

Marzamemi

Agrigento – Valley of Temples 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/LPGY5Ku35jZyEPgQ6

Villa Romana del Casale

https://maps.app.goo.gl/uKwB3YjQt2RuYSFGA

Etna National Park 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/wmDCA6NGMci7VGTH7

Palermo 

Eating Out: 

Il Cambisone – https://maps.app.goo.gl/cSsxaTX65gVSzRsp9

Cefalu

Mainland: 

Cosenza

https://maps.app.goo.gl/1aNijYWHCd7j3Ewy5

Lago Arvo – Dağ Gölü & Lorica

https://maps.app.goo.gl/YNM3NmmBKZ5uAwkQ9

Rocceletta – Basilica di Santa Maria della Roccella

https://maps.app.goo.gl/dFt5okADEhiRp8Gb8

Stilo – Cattolica di Stilo 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/JkQV1dcszvj2EmS59

Tropea – Capo Vaticano 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/Uu2oFb8Q4uMUfiDk8

Pentedattilo (ghost town)

https://maps.app.goo.gl/VAvz5cKLDXQw5STU8

We could not go but we wanted to:

  • Ragusa
  • Agrigento Museo archeologico regionale Pietro Griffo
  • Selinunte
  • Sciacca
  • Lido Scala dei Turchi
  • Capo Bianco
  • Trapani
  • San Vito Lo Copo
  • Scopello
  • Terrasini
  • Reggio Calabria – Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Reggio Calabria
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The Furry Country: Vienna & Budapest

A New Year’s Fantasy…

Sunday concerts conducted by Hikmet Şimşek hold an important place in our generation’s childhood memories. Colorful memories of the same period include the funny philharmonic concerts conducted by Danny Kaye, which gave me and my peers a taste of classical music. Even though I’m not a real classical music fan, I’m quite familiar with it. Therefore, when my usual traveling companion Melike shared her dream of going to a New Year’s Eve Concert in Vienna, I said “come on!”

Of course, it doesn’t work like that… Vienna is an expensive destination in every respect. But Melike is a hardworking and determined woman even more than me! In summer, at the peak of hot July, when the airlines announced promotions, she immediately called me! During the previous campaign period, international tickets were not on sale, so we had consoled ourselves with Antalya and Konya tickets. This time the bite was big, so we attacked from both sides. Melike was successful again. Tickets to Vienna were out of reach, but we bought two return tickets to Budapest. And she had also looked up the Budapest – Vienna train schedule. Therefore, our plan was ready about 6 months before new year, at the height of the summer heat. We were going to fly to Budapest, taking the train to Vienna, staying here for a short time and enjoying the famous New Year’s Eve concert, and then returning to Budapest on the first day of the year for two or three days, hitting two targets with one flight.

Of course, time flew by… When the beginning of December came, we were a little sad that we did not reserve the accommodation in advance. Because the places were full and the prices had doubled! Fortunately, we and Melike’s sister, who decided to join our trip, attacked from three directions and found suitable accommodations for our budget. Moreover, the airline’s revision of flight schedules gave us the right to change the date of our promotional tickets free of charge. Thus, both the traveling group and the duration of the trip was expanded as 3 days in Vienna and 3 days in Budapest.

Before Going to Cold Lands…

Of course, winter can be harsh everywhere, but we had difficult moments of the cold in central and northern European cities before. Especially if you intend to wander the streets in the middle of winter like us! Also, if you do not have much luggage allowance on your promotional flight and will be traveling with only a cabin bag, planning is essential.

We carefully considered and discussed the things that should and should not pack for an efficient travel suitcase. We acted with the following notes:

  • A lightweight and long (certainly below the knee) fluffy coat that is resistant to all kinds of cold and rain – I bought a long, side slit, black on the outside and bright orange on the inside, which looked good in the photos.
  • Boots that will keep you warm, comfortable on long walks, and stylish enough for night parties (important point: no extra shoes) – I chose medium-sized snow boots with zippers.
  • Heaviest clothes should be worn on the road – I wore jeans and my fluffy fleece
  • A woolen shawl – I wrapped a blanket-type woolen shawl that matches the colors of the coat.
  • Thin underlayers for everyday and 1-2 spare sweaters – I brought 2 sweaters, but one with the fleece was enough.
  • A stylish option for New Year’s Eve – I couldn’t decide and brought two alternatives, but in the end I chose the comfortable one. So there is no need for the second one; decide up front.
  • As for the bags; a cabin type rickshaw suitcase, a comfortable but stylish medium-sized backpack instead of a shoulder bag and a small shoulder bag inside it.
  • Important note: If you don’t have specific shopping goals, don’t think ​​”I’ll buy it there if I need it”. Both Vienna and Budapest are expensive for shopping!

New Year’s Concert…

We had heard that the our dream (especially Melike’s) tickets for the Vienna Philharmonic New Year’s Eve Concert were very expensive. But we had also learned that the concert was broadcast live on giant screens in the city square and the festive streets. That’s why we didn’t bother with the concert first. But as the date approached, we wondered if we could find affordable tickets. Again, thanks to my friend’s determination and effort, we found a wonderful opportunity.

One of the small palace buildings in the city center of Vienna was converted into an event area for concerts and receptions. Small concerts were held in halls that looked luxurious inside and out. Apparently, city residents and tourists dressed up and enjoyed this splendor. The name of the place is Kursalon Hübner. And for New Year’s Eve, we bought a package for a concert between 22.00-23.30 and a fireworks show from the palace terrace with a glass of champagne at midnight for approximately 90 Euros per person.

Indeed, when we arrived at the event area around 21:00, we observed with astonishment that some of the guests came in evening dresses and tuxedos that would suit red carpets. Of course, there were also those who did not care for the atmosphere and came in their daily comfort clothes; some of them tourists. The majority of guests were dressed elegantly like us, but they were not posh like “the bride’s sister” at a wedding. It was very nice that the majority was Viennese of all ages who came to have a pleasant New Year’s Eve.

Unfortunately, the concert hall was not as huge and ornate as in the pictures. The area had probably been divided into concert, dining and dance sections. We confirmed this later when we had the opportunity to see other parts of the palace. Still, the stage was sufficient for the performance of a group of 9-10 musicians and 2 dancers or soloists. The seating consisted of chairs that were not very comfortable, but it was not unbearable. The entrance to the hall was through a single door, after a long wait, under the guidance of elegant ushers who did not rush at all.

The concert program was planned as a potpourri of popular classical music. It was compiled from pieces starring Vienna’s pride, Mozart and Strauss, that could appeal to all kinds of ears. Moreover, the accompanists who appeared on stage from time to time were exquisite… A tenor and a soprano opera soloist sang short arias, separately and together. A young ballerina and her slightly pot-bellied senior accompanist offered visual feasts of dance from waltz to ballet. The abundance of fun and rhythmic pieces did not tire the audience. After all, it was all very enjoyable. We laughed at the seniors in the audience who wanted to share the moment, because they were filming the back of guests rather than the performance. We considered it an advantage to be at the back of the hall and scored all the evening dresses.

After the concert ended half an hour before the new year, the guests were taken to the terrace in front of the hall in an orderly manner. Since we weren’t the only smart ones, we had to wait a long time in the cloakroom line before stepping out into the cold night. But we took our place in a secluded corner on the terrace with our champagne glasses in our hands before midnight. Thanks to our view overlooking a large park in the middle of the city, we had the opportunity to watch several firework shows in a row. Following the serial countdown of our presenter, a short but sparkling show took place right in front of us.

As the terrace got less crowded, we thought the guests were slowly dispersing. It turned out that there was another disco-lit hall with a dance floor and a small stage next door. We were excited to see people of all ages enjoying the music. We accompanied the evening dressed couples for a while. Our sweetest moments were watching the aunts and uncles dancing cheek to cheek, arm in arm wşth their shiny outfits. 

Vienna Impressions & Warnings…

While traveling around a city in Europe, every tourist has different approaches… Some are museum lovers, some are gourmets; some wander the streets, some shop. Some people like to play from every tune and visit the most famous venues of the city. There are now many blogs, travel guides, and tour programs online. That’s why I won’t tell you to see this and don’t miss this in Vienna. It is very easy to do a little research on the internet and make a choose-like model. And that’s what we did… But I can share a few tips that made it easier for us in our short three-day program:

  • You can easily mark the places you want to go on the map. This way, you will save time and it will be easier to spontaneously determine the closest route.
  • You can download your map, which includes the places you have marked, accommodation and transfer points, to your mobile phone so that you can use it offline. Thus, you can access it whenever you want.
  • Like us, you can get a virtual sim card by sacrificing one of you, so you can share the internet service in the group with an affordable budget. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that this data sharing is a bit battery consuming.
  • If there is a museum you definitely want to go to, try to buy your tickets in advance. Tickets sell out quickly in many famous museums in Europe. 
  • Since we are interested in cultural heritage and thanks to Melike’s passionate curiosity, we specifically targeted the museum where the ruins of Ephesus are exhibited. It may not be at the top of the popular museums, but it’s central and it’s easy to buy tickets at the door. Unfortunately, they are displaying the magnificent Artemis in a way she does not deserve. It was a little heartbreaking to see the treasures of Ephesus in a doorway, at the bottom of the stairs, without proper lighting or backdrop that revealed their charm. At least they wrapped up the topic with an exquisite site model and excavation photographs.
  • The city is quite crowded, especially during special times such as New Year’s Eve or even long weekends; There can be many queues everywhere. Consider waiting in line for restaurants and cafes or going to less popular places.
  • In some places, the staff may act as if they are from the palace aristocracy and are doing you a favor. Don’t get angry or just keep it to yourself. Most of the time, the service fee is added to the account. Walk away slowly, pretending that you didn’t leave a tip.
  • Yes, apple pies and schnitzels are amazing! Don’t leave without eating some. The city’s most famous schnitzel restaurant has two branches. One is bigger and you have a better chance of getting a table by waiting in line without making a reservation. We went on December 31, 15 minutes before it opened, at 11.15. We waited for about 20 minutes and ate at a wonderful table. Viennese schnitzel has pork and veal options here. The pork one is more famous and delicious. Portions are very fulfilling; you can even feed three people with two portions or order both for diversity. Do order the recommended potato salad on the side. But the cranberry sauce may not appeal to everyone; I liked it.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/K36fZC3TYGFkkCUUA

  • The streets were beautifully decorated for New Year’s Eve… Lights, food and drink kiosks, security corridors, music points; everything was planned perfectly. It was very enjoyable to spend time on the streets before and after the concert. Mulled wine, punch and various drinks were sold in mushroom-shaped mugs with the Vienna commemoration logos. You could keep it as a souvenir; so I carried one of them home.

Ultimately, my impression of Vienna is this…

You have to see it once; but is it an exciting destination for the heart? No. First of all, it is a cold city with a cold style. I think the most important reason is the scale of everything. All is disconnected from the humanist scale; everything is huge… Roads, buildings, palaces, columns, ceilings, buildings and the city is mostly in neoclassical style. This style seems very insincere and superficial to me. It’s like a pretentious imitation of the legacy of ancient civilizations such as Egypt, Greece, Mesopotamia and Anatolia. They look great from a distance but lack the real majestic beauty. If you are interested in 18th and 19th century art, crafts and architecture this will be satisfactory. But if you are from the motherland of these fake Corinthian columns and wall reliefs, it doesn’t impress that much.

But if you are an art lover, Vienna is a museum paradise. It does not contain as much as cultural capitals such as Berlin, London and Paris. But if Klimts, Renoirs and Picassos suit your taste, there is a very satisfactory collection. So, if I ever go to Vienna again, I can stay one or two more days and feed my art-loving appetite.

What about Budapest…

Again, it was very easy to travel around Budapest with the targets previously marked on our map. Important tourist locations are not too far from each other. I am listing the tips and suggestions with comments:

  • I recommend staying in a central location; you can go everywhere on foot. We stayed here; the encrypted key box, easy instructions, the quiet location in the most popular spot of the city and the comfort were satisfactory:

https://bpapartments4you.com/apartment/tk1jQmV8ulC2

https://maps.app.goo.gl/GerBb7wkv6UWgYHu9

  • Public transportation is very easy. We used buses a few times; There are ticket vending machines with English menus at almost every stop. Payment can also be made via credşt card for the transfer between the airport and the center.
  • Again, I think you should buy your tickets to big and popular museums in advance, famous painters have many adorers.
  • The National Hungarian Museum is a treasure that can be overlooked… We went early in the morning without buying a ticket in advance. There was still a queue but we got in easily. The treasury section is particularly impressive; located in the library section of the palace and the interiors were as impressive as the rare displays. In the divisions about Hungarian migrations, one could argue that “they are definitely Turks” 🙂

https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZFBaU6bXXVsE7aHM7

  • The Opera House is world famous and has exquisite shows. Tickets are sold out very easily; we couldn’t find any. They also sell a limited number of standing  tickets at 18:00 for every night, but that sells out too quickly too. If you go early and wait in line, it is worth the experience for the wonderful acoustics and the magnificent hall:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/acgVY36YmdqtsiSF7

  • If you want to visit the famous bridge, I recommend sunset time. The sun sets behind the hills, but if you’re lucky, you’ll be treated to wonderful colors with the Danube river. Moreover, if you walk across the bridge to the Buda side at this time, you can see the wonderful illuminated view of the city and the parliament building. It is possible to see a better view from the hilltop by taking the cable car; definitely worth the wait.
  • We thought we could shop for souvenirs easily in Budapest but we were wrong! In my opinion, Hungarian embroidery and all tourist items were more expensive than their worth. It was obvious from a distance that some of the embroidery is machine work. We can already find everything in Turkey and our defeat against the Euro is very sad… We even had difficulty finding something to buy in the largest market in Budapest. However, if you would like to see all kinds of souvenirs and delicatessen in one place:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/2HHB7ww6jfHw29Wu8

  • Red pepper sauce called Paprika, one of the hallmark flavors of Budapest, is very popular. It is sold everywhere; you can buy a more affordable one from the market. It’s not a very different taste for us Turkish people, but it has a nice nuance that lingers on the palate. Moreover, it can also be a nice gift.
  • If you love shopping or are especially fond of vintage stuff, then the hidden gems of the city will make you happy. There are multiple stylish vintage and second-hand stores in the centre. There are a variety of products, from quality used clothes to fun socks, leather bags and fur jackets. We lwere particularly happy with this:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/9FzABTRJEyayjBt6A

  • We found a shop for original Hungarian products in the center on our last hour.. Horn cups and ornaments, embroidered jewelry and clothes, leather bags and other decorated items made beautiful last-minute gifts with both their designs and inexpensive prices. It’s not exactly marked on the map, but it’s around here:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/stN5kCrjnzaJQSGEA

  • There is a place that offers almost all varieties of street food… You should try:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/PDpUzLnivHtGCLXK8

  • One of the best tastes we had was Artizan Bakery, a bakery-cafe that makes everything. The soup on the lunch menu, the sandwiches/salads that came with it, and the desserts were delicious. Careful because if you’re just as hungry as we were, there’s a risk of over eating:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/J72Md2jhrjyPkqyq6

  • The city is famous for its bars located in abandoned buildings. The most famous, largest and most entertaining one:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/HzXJ5id8K31kLBDH7

  • One night, we went to a sweet bar on our way… There were sweet waiters who gave you a deck of cards and directed us to choose among many cocktails from various flavors. This was a very fun experience; the venue was also very beautiful:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/LRmtheH8VSJQdQMW6

Result: 

Budapest was a more humane, fun and enjoyable travel route for me. In the center of cold Europe, there are huge buildings, huge streets and huge squares still; but both the architectural features and the city as a whole envelops you with its more humane scale. Especially its sweet roof tiles and shapes, tiny shops, detailed, intricately crafted facades like Hungarian embroidery and exquisite lights. The Danube river, decorated with its resemblances, does create a lasting impression.

Walking through these streets makes you feel like you are in a distant land. But more like being part of an exciting adventure rather than a frightening or disturbing experience. In fact, it feels quite like a fairy-tale to watch people skating from the bridge on the huge ice ring, set up on the edge of the giant square or to walk through the old gate in the city’s largest park and wander among the romantic buildings. Ultimately, in Budapest, even if I did not feel like I belonged, I felt like I belonged to the moment.

The Furry Country…

So you may ask “what’s with the fur?”. From the moment we set foot in Vienna, we noticed plenty of people wearing fur; women of all ages and some gentlemen too. Initially the classic models preferred by older women caught our attention. Then we realized that young girls were also wandering around in furs. First we thought it was probably due to the cold weather. But gradually we concluded that fur was making a comeback in fashion

It didn’t take long for us to realize that every major store had at least one fur on display. When we met a huge fur section in the vintage shop in Budapest, the heart began to want what the eye saw! A variety of second-hand fur clothes, from colorful vests to retro jackets, adorned the hangers.

I must admit that I have mixed feelings about the fur issue. Most of it is thankfully fake fur anyway. But slaughtering a living creature just to look beautiful is not my thing. The moral evolution of our civilization is already at this point too. On the other hand, fur was once essential for a sustainable healthy life with local resources in very cold climates. It may still be valid in some special cases. My real dilemma is what will happen to the furs of the past… For example, the ones made before fur became a moral impasse. And eventually, what should I do with the fur stuff I inherited from my aunt?

My trip to Vienna and Budapest led me to ask these questions once again. The stylish and elegant fur coats seemed more impressive with the cold weather. Finally, I decided to buy a vintage faux fur vest. I was happy, the shop owner was happy and my conscience remained clear. Moreover, I looked fabulous! There is a saying in Turkish from an old joke that tells the story of how looks can be deceivingly powerful even if fraudulent… “Eat my fur!”

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Taste It: Chios Island

Going to Chios

Actually, this is not my first time visiting Chios; I had visited for a few days. But it was a short trip and a long time ago. It was a good decision to have a detailed Chios holiday at the end of the official season and beginning of the off season, the best season for me. We had initially thought of a program with hoping on and off to other islands.But then we decided not to spend our time on the road and experience an island to its fullest. This was a very good choice; we have literally devoured Chios with its culture from its museum to its towns, its cuisine from local to fancy, its beaches from its facilities to its pristine beaches and all its roads!

8 Days in Chios

I am writing down the 7 nights and 8 days program we spent in Chios, item by item, so that it is easy to read… By the way, our travel date is October 2023:

Day 1

  • Ferry arrival 10.00
  • Leaving our stuff in our house 
  • Spinach + juice + shopping at the bazaar
  • Settling in at home (14.00-18.00 Solving the Booking.com crisis)
  • Dinner at Dolphina costs 41 E 🙁

Day 2

  • Coffee at the castle:) (the best Greek coffee with mastic is here)
  • Tour inside the castle
  • Ottoman bath museum
  • The wind mills
  • Dinner at OYZEPI 36 E amazing Seafood 🙂
  • Home break
  • Live music and cocktail at the cafe in the castle; 16 E (2 pieces)

Day 3

  • Archaeological Museum
  • Long hike to the south
  • Dinner at Stou Giorgio; amazing mushrooms! 🙂 40.5 E (mushrooms, meatballs, Greek salad, sausage, honey and cheese fries, white wine 50 pcs) The market is crowded with families
  • Ginger beer in the market

Day 4

  • Car rental (25 E per day)
  • Going to Pyrgi… Coffee break, spoon mastic, sightseeing photo
  • Chios Museum and wonderful exhibition, exquisite view
  • Beach Mavra Volia sea sun beautiful
  • Dinner at Emporios with large portions 54E (squid, zucchini on skewers, potatoes, rusk salad, 3 beers)
  • Passing by car from Armolia on the way back
  • Cocktails at home

Day 5

  • Visit to Olympic village, coffee x 2 5 E
  • Mesta town, 14.5 E coffee x 2 and orangeopita + ice cream mastika
  • Break at the south west beach Paralia Apothika 
  • Meal at Stou Giorgio 40E (pork bake, mushrooms, meatballs, Harmony salad, that) very quiet this time
  • Returning home and walking by the sea

Day 6

  • Breakfast at home
  • Nea Mori Monastery
  • Abandoned town Anavatos, mostly closed with only one cafe
  • Avgonima village on the hill, coffee and dessert 7 E
  • Lithi beach, very windy snack Tria Aderfia 17 E (zucchini flower meatballs, herb boiled, white wine decanter 50 CC)
  • Return home break
  • Fine dining at Vradipus 22E (4 types of mini appetizers: rusk salad is delicious, goat gruyere is delicious, meat with sauce is excellent, fava + 50 CC white wine) liquor is served at the end, the presentation is wonderful.

Day 7

  • Going to Volissos (rocky roads)
  • Coffee at the steep town entrance 7.3 E
  • castle climbing
  • Traveling north, stopping on the way Pitos town
  • North Bay Nagos beach, short swim
  • Meal at Lagkada village fish restaurant 37 E (fried zucchini, french fries, boiled herbs, grilled mullet, meatballs, ouzo for 20)
  • Return & grocery shopping

Day 8

  • Byzantine Museum
  • Citrus Museum 12 E coffee X2 + lemon cake
  • Agia Fotini beach break
  • Return ferry

Critical recommendations for Chios…

Again, instead of writing long paragraphs, I make notes in the form of do / don’t or don’t miss / you know how I will do it if I go again:

Accomodation

  • We stayed in a wonderful place called The Garden; I highly recommend it… It is in the center, right next to the bussy area, but in a quiet place. A wonderful apartment complex built by renovating an old settlement. The buildings are made of stone either original or with a renovated design that remains true to the original and they offer a real Greek island experience. The owners, Fotini and her husband are such hospitable and sweet people that we became friends. In fact, Fotini, who was learning Turkish, even studied together with my comrade Melike, a fresh archeology student. 
  • We made the reservation though Booking.com. But we are very unhappy; because we fell victim to fake accounts. We are very pleased with our accommodation and its owners, but we will not book our next stay through booking. They did solve the problem, but it took a few international phone calls and half a day of stressful crisis.

Food

  • Coffee in the Castle: There are 3 places in the castle overlooking a square as soon as you pass through the gate on the city center side. Two of them are restaurants and one is a cafe. It is always festive and lively, the service is reasonable, the prices are good and the taste is delicious.
  • NO NO NO Dolphina’… Oh my God! I don’t advise at all, or go willingly…It is one of the places recommended on blogs and Instagram accounts. We went there on the first night because it was the most popular of the few seaside taverns. Some of our orders were terrible, some were mediocre, and some were plain good. For example, the calamari was unchewable; I have never eaten anything as bad as this in any restaurant on a Greek island. Shrimp was good, the mussel saganaki was not bad. The price wasn’t bad overall but not worth it; I experienced ten times the taste with that budget or even less.
  • I do recommend the only restaurant near the mills: OYZEPI. It has a very simple but efficient menu system… You either choose seafood or meat, and choose what to drink with it. The rest comes from the appetizers of the day, like a fixed menu. Everything was delicious, from fava to sardines, from fried anchovies to cheese saganaki, from salad to shrimp. Actually, 25 Euros for a menu with wine for two would be enough for us… But when you eat two meals a day, you get hungry. There is also a greed for seafood that comes with being new to the island. We got up to 36 E2 with extra double cheese and salad. .
  • Stou Giorgio is the place to eat! . It is a 5-minute drive from the center and a 20-minute walk away, but it is a family business mostly visited by local people. It has a nave view overlooking Chios. But the main thing is taste! I have never eaten such magnificent mushrooms in my life. It was so good that we went a second time… here are two different menus: 1 – 40.5 E with mushrooms, meatballs, Greek salad, sausage, honey and cheese fries, white wine 50; 2- baked pork, mushrooms, meatballs, Harmony salad, 40 E. But it gets crowded on weekends, you may want to reserve a seat.
  • Another special Chios experience was Vradipus; It is a fusion option that combines Greek cuisine with modern inside the castle and tastes like fine dining. I think whatever you eat is amazing.
  • There is a small fishing town a little north of the center: Lagkada. There were few open restaurants here when we went, I guess there would be a little more in the season. Everything was very fresh and delicious; but the tabby was great.
  • We decided to eat there when we got hungry at the exit of Mavra Volia, the famous volcano beach. It was the most expensive meal we had on the island. But the portions were huge. At Emporios, we paid 54 E for calamari, skewered zucchini, potatoes, rusk salad and 3 beers. Baby squid and fried skewer zucchini were legendary. I had the opportunity to try Chios beer here; I like it.
  • Since our west coast program ended early, we sat down for a snack rather than a full meal in the only open place on Lithi beach called Tria Aderfia, we had zucchini flower meatballs, boiled herbs, and a carafe of white wine for 17 E. It was a good taste / price parity.

Touristic Towns

  • Pyrgi… One of the two most famous towns of the island; a must see!
  • Olimpi… It’s near Pyrgi and it’s a very sweet town, so when in Rome!
  • Mesta… The apple of the island. It’s a bit touristy but it deserves it.
  • Nea Mori Monastery... It is worth it to climb the tapes in the middle of the island and the view is exquisite.
  • The abandoned town of Anavatos… Its magnificence can not be seen from the photographs. It is a very different kind of settlement; but unfortunately most of it is closed to visitors due to restoration. But I do recommend taking it into the program.
  • Volissos… We were expecting just another stone town. But it made us very happy with its hilly roads, castle overlooking the western coast and surprising streets.
  • Avgonima… On the way to Anavatos and the western route. You can stop by for coffee, the whole town takes less than an hour to walk.
  • Pitos is a small town on your way north… A sweet break if you happen to pass by.

Museums

  • Chios Museum… I did not expect such a pleasant site; I’m glad we went! Both the modern buildings, the space arrangement, the view and the show content are wonderful. They have shown everything about the island of Chios and Mastika in a very beautiful, compact and enjoyable curation. I think you should definitely go. Moreover, it is on the Mavra Molia road from Pyri! Entrance is 4E but worth it.
  • Archeology museum... Worth going for those who are interested; But it pales in comparison to what we have in Turkey. Entrance 4 E.
  • Citrus Museum… Actually, we did not visit the show 🙂 But it is such a beautiful building and campus that we spent hours there. There is a very cute cafe in its garden; Delicious menu too. It is a private museum converted from an old mansion. A great stopover point on the southern route.
  • Byzantine Museum… We looked through the door and came back. Nothing much, unless you have a very special interes, there is no need to enter (4E)

Beaches

  • Mavra Volia beach is legendary… It was this place that I remember the most from my first visit to Chios. Because it has a beach made of volcanic black pebbles and a beautiful sea. 
  • A beach called Paralia Apothika in the southwest. We took the southern route for a sea break; 15 minutes away from Mesta. Normally, there is a cable car from the facility on the cliffs to the beach for service; but when we went there was no one there. You can even discover your own private untouched beach if you explore the cliffs on one side of the beach.
  • Lithi beach… One of the most popular on the west coast. Indeed, there is a sweet sandy beach and facilities. But the day we went, we encountered a storm; so no swimming for us
  • Nagos beach, one of the northern beaches… One of the many small beaches facing north. It is located inside a small settlement. There were three or five people; but I’m sure it’s a popular place in the high season. The sea is pebbly but deepens quickly, it is a pleasant swim.
  • Agia Fotini… This is a popular beach with facilities, close to the center. The pebbles are a beautiful shade of beige here. The sea and the beach are nothing special, but we were very happy to find comfortable wooden sun loungers and bamboo umbrellas to lie on in the off-season, and there was even a beverage service.

.Other Notes:

  • Each restaurant comes with a large set of water and bread, which costs approximately 1.5 E for water and 0.5 E for bread per person.
  • We are very happy to stay in the center and in a unique place. We were able to go everywhere easily (the longest distance on the island is 1 hour) and we were happy to come home every time.
  • There are usually ferries to the island in the morning and evening (35-40 minutes from Çeşme). In order to use the day efficiently, departures in the morning and return in the evening are generally preferred. It gets crowded in season; But off-season entry and exit is easy.
  • We spent the first two days on foot to enjoy the centre; We rented a car for the last 5 days (25 Euros out of season is the best we’ve paid so far). I would recommend it, especially on these last days, unless you choose to stay somewhere else or come with your own vehicle. This way, when you check out from where you left off in the morning, you can put your belongings in the car and enjoy the day wherever you want.

What should we buy from Chios…

I don’t think there’s much need to think about it: MASTİKA! Fifty shades of mastic, to be more precise… 🙂 You can buy the mastic pure, so I can put it on everything at home. Or you can try options such as tangerine or orange. Or you can try the jars with all kinds of jams (I bought the peanut jam just out of curiosity). Of course, there are also masticTurkish delights, mastic drinks, and mastic desserts. But we were surprised that nobody tried to make mastic pudding! You will have to eat it in the form of a paste with a spoon (sometimes in ice water).

As for alcoholic beverages… There are also Ouzo varieties here; We chose the bottle we had drunk at a restaurant and liked. But Chios does not have a deep-rooted ouzo culture like Lesbos. I liked the Chios beer very much; I advise.

Pyrgi patterned bags are number one in souvenirs… Of course, there are various variations of these. Keychains, mirrors, mugs and all sorts of odds and ends. I prefer the souvenirs I can use; That’s why I bought a cloth bag. There is a gift for everyone’s taste and budget.

The sum of it…

As I told you, we had first planned a tour of the islands with my companion Melike. But after a busy summer schedule, we wanted a more relaxed pace before heading into winter. We did not want to spend most of our time on the road, as ferry services became less frequent as the official season ended. In short, it seemed more attractive to Chios upside down.

And that’s what we did!… I think there is no road or geography of Chios that we haven’t seen at least once. We spent the first two days in the center and digested the island culture with all its streets and museums. We did the southern route twice, which is well deserved as there are very popular destinations here. In one day, we crossed from the middle to the west and explored the hills and west coast. We devoted one day entirely to the north, which was a good idea. We encountered a completely different face of the island nature. The dense stony terrain here has a different fascination. We reserved the last day to complete the bonus and enjoy the seaside.

Thanks to its proximity to our lands, Chios is one of the islands that we Turkified to a certain extent… When the transportation is so easy, of course there are many Turkish visitors. Accordingly, you can sometimes see tactics stolen from our water-savvy tourism professionals… Such as offering paid water and bread to every table. In some faces you see the sadness, remembering the time when we were all together, and in some you can see the tiredness. For example, the man sitting at the place where we rented the car, originally from Gökçeada, was telling us how he escaped from the Turkish military. 

But the real issue is, will we meet on our common ground or will we fall apart from our differences? One of the two things that touched me the most was the temporary special exhibition at the Chios Museum… The feeling of being in limbo described by the Greek immigrants who came to the island from the mainland after the war. In other words, the sadness of being neither from here nor there was depicted. The other impression is the way our hosts embraced us… One is the accountant son of a carpenter father from an Egyptian immigrant family. The other is a big-hearted woman, a Macedonian immigrant with Spartan blood. The two met and fell in love while studying at university in Piraeus. The man’s eyes shine as he looks at his wife; the woman lights up the room with her smile. The doors they made with their own hands and the breakfast basket they carefully prepared for us also tell the story. They sent us off with the words “Stay one more night with us”… I will go to Chios again just for this feeling of “if you combine your dreams with your effort, you can build a palace”. But I will also eat the squid, the shrimp and the octopus! 🙂

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The Secret of Long Life: Ikaria

Departure to Ikaria

I had heard good stories about İkaria for many years and finally I set out to visit. There is no direct passage from Turkish ports to Ikaria which is one of the Greek islands near Turkish mainland. Therefore, some detailed planning is required. But it is not very difficult; because, thanks to our neighbor there are frequent, comfortable and economical ferry services between the islands at an optimum schedule.

The easiest jump to Ikaria is from the island of Samos; Kuşadası port is the closest to it from the Turkish side. I had bought a ferry ticket to Samos online (bilet.com) before, but ticketing and check-in was done by Meander Turizm, right next to Kuşadası port. For the Ikaria visit, I tried to buy online again; but the ferries from Turkey to Samos arrive at two different ports and the ferry from Samos to Ikaria has a different port (yes, there are 3 ports in Samos and two in İkaria). I had a hard time navigating the ferry-to-ferry crossing puzzle. Then I decided to ask Meander Travel who also organizes Samos tours. Thanks to them, they solved it fast and professionally. Moreover, it did not make much of a difference on the price I would have paid for the combined tickets if I bought them myself! We also wanted to stay overnight in Pythagorion on the way back to Samos too. In the end, the ferries were like this:

Departure: Kusadasi – Samos (Vathi Port) morning departure; bus transit to the port of Karlovassi; Samos (Karlovassi Port) – Ikaria (Evdilios Port) afternoon crossing

Return: Ikaria (Evdilios Port) – Samos (Karlovassi Port) departure at noon; by bus crossing first Vathi and then Pythagorion; the next evening Samos (Pythagorion Port) – return to Kusadasi

Meander Travel location: https://goo.gl/maps/zeEYE4pzT82NbMheA 

Meander Travel English site: https://meandertravel.com/ 

Meander Turkish site: https://samosaferibot.com/ 

The ferry ride was smooth and enjoyable as expected; We didn’t realize how time passed because of the excitement. But we waited a long time at the passport control at the entrance to Samos. As we were not one of the first to jump into the port via sitting in the back of the ferry and waiting for the saute as soon as we approached, we were able to enter the island after waiting for about 1 hour in line. I cannot say that you should be smart about this; because while waiting for the bus, there is not much to do in Vathy at noon except to sit at the port and drink cold coffee. So we did; we relaxed a bit by taking advantage of the sea breeze in a cafe close to the bus stop. But first we checked the bus times; although the tariff is not very variable, I recommend you do the same because there may be changes and special circumstances from time to time.

It takes about 1 hour by bus from Vathy to Karlovassi and you can enjoy the ride as the road passes through a pleasant route by the seaside. Since we arrived a little earlier than the ferry hour, we cooled off with Frappe again. There are not many places to wander in Karlovassi anyway. Also, many shops are closed at noon due to siesta. When the giant ferry, which departed on time at 16:25, arrived early to the port, we thought it was not our ride. But it turned out that this huge blue ship would be our vehicle, jumping between the islands and carrying passengers to many destinations including Mykonos. We were very comfortable on this huge ferryboat with multiple floors (only for 2 floors of vehicles), air-conditioned saloons and huge indoor and outdoor terraces, and we enjoyed watching the northern shores of Samos and Ikaria. We arrived at Evdilios just in time.

We had made a reservation for car rental in advance… I would definitely recommend it because there are limited cars on the island and it’s not worth the risk of being empty handed or getting a junk ride. We took our vehicle from the office, which is within walking distance of the port, and set out for our house in Therma, on the south side of the island, about 1 hour away. No extra payment was required to include the second driver. During the holiday, we were comfortable using the narrow and winding roads of the island in this way.

5 Days in Ikaria 1 Day in Samos

Instead of writing long sentences, I am summarizing the gross 5, net 4 days (roads eat half a day or more) and the net 1 night 1 day program in Samos so that it is easy to read… By the way, our travel date is July 2023:

map of ikaria

day 1

  • 9:00 – 11:30 Kusadasi – Samos ferry ride & passport control
  • 11:30 – 13:30 Cold coffee break at Vathi port in Samos
  • 13:45 – 15:00 Vathi – Karlovassi bus ride (5 E / person)
  • 15:00 – 16:15 Karlovasi cold coffee break
  • 16:25 – 18:00 Samos Karlovasi – Ikaria Evdilios Ferry ride
  • 18:00 – 19:30 Car rental from Evdilios & departure to Therma
  • 19:30 – 21:30 Dinner at Agios Kirykos (Seafood & Island Goat Cheese Roast – 3 people 60 E)
  • 21:30_ 22:00 Transfer from Agios Kirykos to Therma (15 min) & settling in the house
  • 22:00 – 23:00 Ikaria beer on Therma beach (award-winning but eh)
Therma at night
İkarian beer
Therma at night 2

day 2

  • Enjoying the sea in the morning in Therma thermal waters (hot springs in a natural cave-like recess) and in the bay
  • Breakfast at Kritikos Estiatorio on Therma beach
  • Driving to Seychelles Bay (1 hour horse)
  • Walking and sea break from the parking lot to Seychelles Bay
  • Visit by car to the next town and a cold coffee break
  • Driving to Icarus Rock and greeting to Icarus from the rock (entering the sea)
  • Continue on the south coast – cooling off at Paralia Xilosirtis beach
  • Dining in the same place at Arodou Tavern (Seafood, island cheese, fries & legendary local wine – 3 quiche 63E)
  • Return to Therma and the bloody moonrise course

day 3

  • Enjoying the sea in Therma thermal waters and the bay early in the morning
  • Journey through the mountain roads in the middle of the island from Therma to the north coast
  • Arrival in Raches town and breakfast & dessert (Amazing sweet & organic purchase from women’s co-op)
  • Raches Town tour (not very sweet at noon, 1-2 hours is enough)
  • Armenistis car ride (30 min)
  • Great snack at Mouragio Tavern in Armenistis (fries with fries, fried cheese, fried zucchini, yellow pan bread & Mamos beer)
  • Transition to Nas Beach, parking the car and going down the stairs & enjoyment at the beach (very strong current and wave, it’s better to play in the sea than swimming, but it’s very nice & there are people who hang out naked, it’s free)
  • Transfer to Karimalis Vineyard for sunset and dinner (vegetarian fix menu & 1 glass of wine 35 E/person – they make everything from their own produce, a sweet team especially the host lady and our Spartan waitress)
  • Night cruise to Therma & Full Moon

day 4

  • Early departure from home due to pests and calming in thermal waters in Therma
  • Coffee break at Kritikos Estiatorio on Therma Beach (two sunbeds cost 10 E)
  • Transition to Evdilos port and town tour (1-2 hours is enough)
  • 14:30 embark on the ferry and transfer to Armenitis
  • Room rental at Kirki Rooms family business in Armenitis (small double room 40 E with no view – clean and very pleasant seafront communal terrace)
  • Sea break at the small beach of Armenistis
  • Fabulous meal at the Mouragio Taverna in Armenitis (wonderful roast honey cheese with kadaif, roast zucchini, delicious hot yellow pan bread, kiddo stew with noodle rice, amazing scalloped caviar & local white wine – 2 people 38E)
  • Enjoying the terrace & sleeping pipe at the hotel

day 5

  • Enjoying the sea at Armenistis small beach
  • Transfer to Evdilios at noon and vehicle delivery
  • 14:30 ferry ride to Samos Karlovassi port (approximately 1 hour)
  • Karlovassi – Vathi bus ride (approximately 1 hour – 5 E/person)
  • Bus ride from Vathi to Pythagorion (approx. 20 min – 1.7 E/person)
  • Settlement in Hotel Pegasus (a medium-sized clean and well-maintained hotel that remains retro with old furniture – double room 80 E for 1 night)
  • A pleasant tour in the streets of Pythagorion & delicious ice cream (everyone is very stylish and well-groomed here, also the weather is very positive)
  • Shopping at the bazaar (there are boutiques with beautiful original designs and stores with affordable linen/silk dresses)
  • A wonderful dinner at Mermizeli Restaurant (a delicious modern twist on traditional Greek cuisine – Salad with Mermiz, grilled swordfish with amazing basmati rice, garlic bread, grilled vegetables with local cheese called castle & 20 ml Hera Ouzo – chance to meet the owner Maria – 2 people) 65 E)
  • Return to hotel and lay down pipe

day 6

  • Get up early and go to the ancient ruins of Pythagorion Heraion (taxi 13 E) sightseeing in the area (entrance 6 E / person) & salute to the goddess Hera
  • Visit to the monastery of Panagia Spiliani and the holy cave behind it (taxi 14 E from Heraion)
  • Walking down the monastery and arriving at the beach
  • Enjoying the sea by the ruins of Pythagorion
  • Pythagorion castle museum, basilica and other ruins tour
  • Cold coffee break in the bazaar
  • Shopping & transfer to hotel, meeting
  • Pythagorion – Kusadasi journey by 18:00 ferry (approximately 1.5 hours and if the sea is choppy it is shaky)

Critical advice for Ikaria…

Again, instead of writing long paragraphs, I make notes as if I go again, how would I do it / don’t or don’t miss it / you know:

  • Armenitis is our favorite for accommodation in Ikaria. Therma was also beautiful, but the north sea is a bit more pleasant and northern towns are a bit more comfortable and relaxed as they are used to tourists.
Armenitis
  • We said that you must make a reservation when renting a car. And please follow the advice given to you, not google maps! Some of the mountain roads guided by our navigation were dusty dirt, even rocky, and we were able to proceed very slowly. In general, the coastal road from the north and south of the island is popular, some of the ones that pass through the mountains in the middle of the island are good and some are not.
  • Dinner at Agios Kirykos one evening in the south is recommended. We couldn’t reach the archeology museum, you can try it too. In addition, there are jumps to other islands from here… We are planning for next time.
  • I recommend you to swim in Therma thermal waters and this sweet little bay in the morning. It’s a pleasure to spend half a day there. Actually, it’s not bad for a stay, but it’s a bit far from other locations. But that hot water in winter or autumn would be great!
Therma bay
Therma termal waters
Therma termal waters
  • Seychelles Bay is the most famous place on the island… Everyone writes, draws and tells about it. Yes it is very beautiful; But I don’t think I will die if I don’t see it again. Also the hiking road is a bit rough, you can’t go with slippers; You have to climb down from pretty rocks to the tiny cove. And the main problem is that there is no shadow except for the rock that creates a huge cave. But it was already crowded when we went at noon. The water is truly exquisite and the colors are turquoise & fifty shaed of blue… But you have to go early in the morning or in the afternoon; noon time is tough,
Seychelles Bay 1
Seychelles Bay road
Seychelles Bay 2
  • Many people have written that there is nothing important to see in Icarus Rock… I don’t think so. As the mythological story that gives the island its name, the energy is very intense here. White stones like marble, natural rocky structures are very impressive. Also, a festival area was built in front of the Icarus rock; it would be great to come across an event there.
Icarus Rock
  • On the south coast, Paralia Xilosirtis beach is a modest but delightful place that can be overlooked. The sea is very pleasant, there is a pier-like extension where you can jump into the water from the natural rocks. And there is a shower at the top of the stairs leading down to the beach! This is a rare comfort in Ikaria, which is famous for its natural beaches. We saw plenty of families here compared to other tourist-filled beaches. It is obviously a place preferred by the islanders.
Paralia Xilosirtis
Paralia Xilosirtis roof
Paralia Xilosirtis view
  • You must eat at Arodou Tavern at the same place! We chose seafood and local wine which was amazing. But it is famous for its goat meat, so we will try it next time.
  • Near to the north of Adanon, but inland towards the middle, the town of Raches is still on the must-see list. If you have time, the festivals of this place are famous. We couldn’t catch it… In fact, as an island, Ikaria is famous for its local festival nights where people drink and dance every night until the morning. The biggest of these is held in Raches. This is also at the top of the next time list!
  • Armenistis is one of the places we enjoy the most for a pleasant sea break, for accommodation, and for a taste stop.
  • Kirki Rooms family-run accommodation in Armenitis is convenient and comfortable.
  • You should definitely eat at Mouragio Tavern in Armenistis. Everything is delicious!
  • Nas Beach is at the top of Ikaria’s magnificent list too… This is also a piece of untouched nature. There are facilities above where you park, but there is no facility downstairs, only an elderly man who rents sun loungers & umbrellas. Famous for its sunset; it would be really nice to end the day here.
  • We especially wanted to experience a winery.. At Karimalis Vineyard, the vegetarian fixed menu is a feast of taste. The sunset here is also magnificent.
  • Since the town of Evdilos is the port of entry or exit to the island, you have to pass through. An hour or two walk on the streets is enough here.

So what can we buy from Ikaria…

First of all, know that Ikaria is quite expensive in terms of shopping and gas compared to the more easily accessible islands like Samos… But this is understandable as there is an additional cost for everything that comes to the island from outside. In particular, things such as clothing and accessories are both more diverse and cheaper in Samos, the neighboring island. But still, you can come across specially designed products in some boutiques on every island.

ikarian evolution

What we liked the most was the Ikaria lifestyle-themed products in Raches. Since our budget was limited, we bought products such as coffee mugs and glasses as souvenirs. I fell in love with a design necklace and bought it in a store run by a lady who was a fan of Istanbul. But we spent more time and money in the boutique we entered next to the Mouragio Tavern in Armenitis. As well as having very tasteful and selected textile products, we were especially  impressed by the charm of the owner. When we were at the beach in the morning, our eyes had drawn to her elegant features, silky gray hair and tattoos on her back at her mature age. While we were curiously looking at the clothes on the hanger in front of the boutique showcase, we were more excited when we saw her inside. Fortunately, we bought one the linen dresses, not one of the silk and floral-patterned dresses… Because when we saw it on everyone’s back in Samos, we said, “The municipality is giving out this dress for sure”; so the name “town dress” remained!

If you don’t mind shopping, storing and transporting food and beverage, I definitely recommend you to buy Ikaria goat cheese and local wine. We had the opportunity to taste a variety of goat cheese in every meal. But it was the fried cheese we ate in Agios Kirykos, which is engraved in our memories with golden letters. They had grilled the goat cheese, which resembled halloumi but had a salt-free flavor, and poured a balsamic sauce on it. Goat cheese fried with kadai in Mouragio competes with this. But if I was served this fancy I would compete too! Our experience (emphasizing that we are not wine gourmets here) has been that the carafes we drank at the restaurants (we tried all of them red, white, rosé) left a more pleasant taste than the branded wine in the vineyard. But we couldn’t find them to buy in the market. So if you do let me know!

And the secret of long life…

The island of Ikaria is the second longest-living place in the world (the first is the Japanese island Okinawa). İkaria was also famous as the exile island of Greece during the communist hunt. Let’s not forget that it is also named after the mythological character Icarus. Apart from these three data, we also have geographical and terrain information and a lot of observations… 

İkaria is a rugged island with 4 different types of soil (we can say that it is a rock type, one of which is slate and shines brightly on the south-west coasts) with plenty of mountainous / hilly and steep slopes meeting the sea. There is also an abundant supply of clean water. There is also goat meat and goat products in its cuisine as well as seafood.

From the combination of all these, I draw the following conclusion… The islanders primarily eat healthy natural and high quality food, that’s for sure. They walk profusely to move. There isn’t much of a choice anyway, entering the house is uphill, leaving the house is downhill or the other way round. As we understand from the graffiti we see on the walls throughout the island, the sickle and hammer are still in fashion. Therefore, although not really communist, there seems to be a sensitivity about social balance and social justice. Well, we can also call the Ikarians the descendants of Icarus, the ascended human. Ikaria is the island of festivals where food and drinks go together and all kinds of island people of all ages play and dance until the mornings… In other words, it is a place where art is made not for art but for society and where enjoying life takes the lead. In the meantime, it does not hurt to swim in thermal waters.

In conclusion… The tools of modern life and consumer society, especially in cities, do not improve our lives while making us more civilized, comfortable, or even smart. Under their shadow, they suck our blood and feed off our energy. I’m not saying it’s totally useless; but it looks like we took it too far! I think the secret of long life is to embrace and share what is best for us and show the middle finger to those who do not serve it. This is the İkarian way!

As they say in Vulcan…“mene sakkhet ur seveh” meaning “live long and prosper” 🙂

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Delta of Büyük Menderes & Karina

Down the village…

Our village – Eski Doğanbey – overlooks one of the most spectacular deltas of both the past and the present: the Büyük Menderes Delta. The gigantic gulf where the fertile waters of the Büyük Menderes River now meet the Aegean in divided channels. It is bounded on the north by the Dilek Peninsula, the Mykele (Dilek or Samsun Mountains) and the Dilek Peninsula National Park, in which the village is located. On the south side, there is Akköy village and then the summer resorts that reach Didim after the tip of the peninsula. 

Köyden Büyük Menderes Deltası

The ancient wisdom of Ionia, one of the most magnificent of ancient civilizations, echoes in these lands. In fact, the present Bafa Lake was a part of it until the deep gulf waters extending all the way inland were filled with alluvium brought by the river. There are even traces of early humans in the caves of the Latmos mountains above the ancient city of Heraklia by the lake. Miletus, the crown of the bay and the science center of the period; Priene, one of the first grid-planned cities and the temple of Apollo in Didim, the oracle center, where all of them were connected by a sacred way… These are all long stories in themselves. Of course, there is the connection with the other Menderes delta in the north and the legendary cities of Carian civilization in the south. Surrounded by old harbors and sacred areas connected to ancient cities, this region now houses one of the most fertile lands of the country, Söke Plain.

In the valley, agriculture is still the most important income for the people. In other words, it is an area where reeds and fields flooded by rains intersect, the soil is half loam, half sand, and some places are swamps. So there’s no chance of running to cool waters from sandy beaches here! On the contrary, with the sandy barriers in front of the delta, this is a natural fishing oasis. In other words, the water of the region is as fertile as the soil. Therefore, it is not possible to swim in the delta; you have to travel a bit further. 

The road is beautiful…

If your intention is to swim in the Aegean; then you go downhill from Eski Doğanbey with the blue in front of you. You have two options at the end of the road… You either turn to the left, that is, to the village, and proceed towards the interior of the plain from where you cross the plain from the middle and ride towards the promised beaches in the south. Or you can turn right and pass through the brand new village of Doğanbey, which does not have “New” in front of its name and go further This road takes you to the west, towards the tip of the delta, on the southern slopes of the Dilek Peninsula.

After a while, leaving the village behind, you can find Abdül’ün Yeri on your left, one of the oldest fish restaurants in the region. Now Abdul’s son Deniz and his beautiful family run it. I still have not forgotten the flavor of the fish soup that my mother ordered from Deniz’s mother when I came to the village in my teenage years. But the only disadvantage of the restaurant is that it is not on the seafront.

As soon as you pass Abdül’s, a dirt road enters the fishermen’s bay right next to it. As soon as you enter, you will see many boats moored in this small harbor operated by the fishermen’s cooperative. Some are released in the shallows at sea, some are pulled to the shore and repaired, and some seem to be left to their fate. In the fishing season, you can find and buy fresh fish here every morning. Just do not expect services such as sorting and salting; There is a “do your own thing” attitude. But if you say that you want the full service, then the route is to the other side; you have to go to the Fisherman Serdar of Güllübahçe. Or if you want it all on your plate, then you continue on your way to destination Karina.

But wait; The road is not over yet! In fact, it only gets better… As you taste the thyme scents on the right and see the reeds on the left on the edge of the delta, you may start to smell the sea salt. There is a dirt road that turns left from one of these bends that is a bit difficult to detect for those who do not know it. This road leads to a hot spring that emerges from a semi-cave-like area in the secluded bay. (I don’t think everyone should know about it anyway) In summer the temperature is not that hot, but you can enter the water with a tranquility that calms trembling teeth in cold seasons.

Comeon…

You may say that it took too long to get to the water and you could be right. But I learned about these places through many years; a few detours is nothing. However, I have endless respect for those who want to cool off with the healing waters of the Aegean in the heat of summer. That’s why the final destination is Karina. From there on, there is no vehicle access & no pedestrian entrance either; because the last Turkish border western outpost is in Karina. It is actually about 10 km from our village.

And it really is where the road ends… Don’t be surprised when you take the last corner and see the dead-end sign; A little further on, there are parking places next to the rows of restaurants. But if you visit at the most crowded time, like the holidays and the popular hours of the weekend, then you have to leave the car a bit further. You can finally leave your towel in a corner throw yourself into the water.

But be careful not to jump right in! Because the sea is shallow here because it is located at the very end of the delta, near the dunes. You will have to walk on the silvery fine sands, through the scattered seashells, or the tiny hermits that appear and disappear from time to time. To swim here means as soon as you think you are in deeper waters you feel it rising to knee level again and again. But fear not, those cool waters will embrace you eventually.

In The Old Days…

When we first came to the village, there was nothing in Karina except the one gendarmerie station. And there were the stone ruins of fishermen’s shelters and boats moored to the shore. One summer night when I was in high school, we decided to sail with a few friends, my mother and our host, Sebo with dreams of jumping into the deep sea. And we couldn’t light the barbecue so we threw the small eggplants into the sea to make a wish despite my mother’s objections.

Now, Karina is a popular stopover, where rows of fish restaurants offer local and fresh flavors of Aegean cuisine. They all have simple wooden table chairs by the sea; you can settle in any one. You can taste calamari, shrimp, appetizers with fresh herbs, local fish varieties and soft drinks now where we could only have a picnic. In fact, until a few years ago, only fresh village cheese was available; now there are many kinds.

Recently, the local fishermen hosted a pelican whose wing was broken and stayed here during the migration season. I think it is a miracle that the head of one of the tourists who found it interesting was not pierced by the giant beak of this giant bird during its stay here. But this place is a miracle in itself… Depending on the season you come, it is possible to see colorful flamingos, various herons and different kinds of birds on the edge of the delta. In fact, there are wooden observation towers at the entrance of Carina and at the intersection of the village road.

My favorite routine is either to come early in the morning and wash my face in the sea when there is no one around; or to come in the evening and set up at one of the tables and play in the waters while the sun is cooling. It is not possible to see the sun set on the horizon here, but those colors will take you farther. Especially if the moon rises from the waters of the delta; you will be mesmerized. Because here, a starry night with a yellow moon is magical. 

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My Acquired Hometown: Eski Doğanbey

The Hometown Issue…

My acquired  hometown: this is the personal meaning of Old Doğanbey Village for me. Because, like many other people living in this part of the world, I am a nomad. I was not born here, my parents are not from here. In fact, I did not grow up here… Or rather, my childhood was not here; but this land has been home to my heart. I did not go to school here, but here I read the great novels that left traces on my heart. I did not fall in love here, but I cried out many of my love aches to this wind, I left my pain to this sky. I didn’t get married here, but I wore out my loves here. I didn’t work here, but I found inspiration here; I wrote and drew here. I even worked for this place; with the Old Doğanbey Friends, I tried so that our village would not be spoiled and not fall victim to contempt, indifference, or profiteering. I mean, I didn’t grow up here in the sense you know, but I grew up with this sense of belonging. Here, I inherited both the healing energy that penetrated the soul of the village from generations ago and the home my mother created. Now I am trying to live worthy of this legacy and share it with other souls who can see, hear and feel it.

To summarize briefly…

Eski Doğanbey is a unique place where people connect with themselves and nature. Here you can feel the energy of people who lived in harmony with the land, grew olives on the hills or fished in the bay. The first traces of the settlement dates back to 7th century B.C. but the more well-known part of its history is the stone houses and terraced olive groves built by the Greek inhabitants. The old name of the village “Domatia” means rooms in old Greek. Eski Doğanbey is an ancient Greek village whose original texture has been preserved. In other words, it is an extraordinary place with its old genuine stone houses, some of which have regained their former glory, while others are still in ruins.

When we look at recent history, with the migration that started in 1924, the original Greek inhabitants were replaced by Turkish families from Thrace and the Balkans. The new villagers, who made their living mostly by fishing from the sea and agriculture from the plains instead of olives and olive oil, left the breezy foothills of the mountain and established a new settlement 2 km downstream with the support of the state: Doğanbey. Some of the structures were battered to search for gold, some for materials for new houses, and some succumbed to the cruelty of the time. Except for a few families staying in the village, life fell into a long silence. It sprouted again in the late 80s early 90s with the rediscovery of those who fled the city.

Eski Doğanbey Village is a quiet corner close to the center of both the old world and the new Aegean. Here you can retreat to solitude or socialize easily in nearby places such as Kusadasi, Didim, İzmir or Bodrum. Located within the borders of Dilek (Büyük Menderes Delta) National Park in Söke district of Aydın, the old village is located at the foot of Mykale (also called Dilek / Samsun) mountains, 2 km up from Yeni Doğanbey Village; overlooking the magnificent view of one of the largest deltas of the Aegean Sea..

My Old Doğanbey Story…

My past with the village begins in my middle school years… Since my classmate’s family were interested in traveling, cultural heritage and such hidden gems, they discovered the Old Doğanbey Village in 1989. We are on holiday in Didim with my yet unbroken family at that time. Being aware of this discovery, my mother, who is fond of “shabby” in her own words, and my father a “bohemian at heart”, included the village in the excursion to the Miletus city. Since there was no public transportation or even asphalt roads to teh village at that time; we climbed the slope on the back of a tractor. But Eski Doğanbey was love at first sight for all of us individually. Guided by one of the families who did not move to the new settlement, my parents bought one of the ruins with a loan. 

We could afford to have our house renovated a few years later, when my parents get divorced and my mother can save money with a second job after retirement. Then I’m in high school; I can hold a hammer, trowel, sandpaper; therefore, in the summers, I work in the construction. Our nest is in a narrow street just behind the village square in the old center of the village, which I call the “European Side”. We make our home with our own labor over a long period of time. We transform the barn downstairs into a living room, adding a bathroom and a room upstairs, and renovating the kitchen, which we still use from the courtyard.

Meanwhile, I blow the excitements, disappointments and cries of revenge of my first loves to these mountains. When I go swimming in the sea near the hot water spring on the Karina road and get sick, I swallow vitamins and antibiotics in the fountain of the village in secret. I learn the results of the summer university exams in that house; My dream is architecture and my construction site experience is already in place. I discharge the pains of being eighteen two hours away in Bodrum with my friends and then read “The Name of the Rose” on the ridges of the Samsun mountains. I come every summer while I am studying at the university and I also attempt to write my master’s thesis about here. Lots of sketches, detailed images of the village in old films; whatever you want is in my archives.

As the years pass, I get caught up in the beat of business life; I set my heart in other places during the holidays. But I accompany my mother’s arrivals in the spring and returns to the city in the fall. My mother becomes a part of the group with the neighbors, founding an association for the revival of the village. The association is established in order to protect the village, to make life easier and coordinate the services that did not reach the village at that time. My retired banker mother works as a treasurer for years there; they do a lot of work, from the construction of old-fashioned roads to bringing water from the mountain. We have senior architects, urban and regional planners, academics, art historians, artists, and various intellectual neighbors among the village residents, so I am assigned to run errands. 

Over time, my mother’s health deteriorates; the comfort of the house, which we cannot reach by car, and the village slopes challenge it. When a house that can be reached by car and where my mother can live without climbing the stairs is available on the opposite side of the village which we call the “Anatolian Side”; she rolls up her sleeves. We sell our old house and build a new home in this one. Again we collaborate; our neighbor Architect Sibel Gürsel and her husband Oğuz Söğüt help out. I’m also an architect now; so I support remotely as much as I can. This way, my mother does not leave the village, although she is able to stay less each year. The last summer she visits, she calls my father to visit… And twenty years later, the three of us breathe the familiar breeze together for the first and last time.

The next year, I bid farewell to both my parents to other lands and come back here to mourn. Then, I realize that I have always burried my heartaches here; when my heart was hurt, I always fled here. Whatever the wounds, my heart always healed here and new seeds of joy sprouted here, I bloomed here.

That’s why Eski Doğanbey later became my hometown. Like those before me, I may migrate one day; but I wish it will always stay this beautiful.

Tips for those who want to come to the village:

Eski Doğanbey is half an hour away from Söke center, 1.5 hours away from İzmir by car, and 2 hours away from Bodrum. It is recommended to use a private vehicle for transportation. However, it is also possible to use public transport from Söke bus station. You only have to tell the driver that you will go up to Old Doğanbey when you get on the minibuses that say Doğanbey.

It is advantageous to use private transport to get around, as the village is located in an unpopulated natural reserve area. The village is located on hiking trails where there are bird watching opportunities as well as other natural beauties. Büyük Menderes Delta is not suitable for swimming, it is a wetland where mostly fishing is done. However, it is a 10-minute drive to Karina, located at the far end of the delta, where you can swim and enjoy fresh fish caught by local fishermen.

You can also go to one of the many exceptional beaches with clear waters and beautiful natural views of Dilek Peninsula National Park with a journey of approximately 45 minutes – 1 hour. The beach side of Dilek Peninsula National Park, of which Eski Doğanbey is also located within the boundaries of, is on the northern side of the peninsula. There is a walking trail of about 20 km from our village to the beaches, but there is no vehicle road. The entrance is closer to Kuşadası and you pay for access to the beaches during the day (vehicle or pedestrian) and accommodation is prohibited.

There are very important traces of ancient civilizations in and around the Büyük Menderes Delta… Ancient cities such as Priene, Miletos, Apollon Temple & Didima, Magnesia, Ephesus and the House of Virgin Mary are among the many attractions nearby. I will also mention some of them in my articles…

When I can’t go to the village, our house is rented in two entries: the big house as the “White Mansion” and the small house as the “Tiny Stone House” in Airbnb. Thus, I can afford for the upkeep and the maintenance of the houses. Moreover, I usually make friends with the guests when I find the opportunity; these friendships open new doors to other worlds for me. Here are the details:

White Mansion: https://www.airbnb.com.tr/rooms/2680883?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=14e5eebc-0115-4e47-b520-100ddc108011

Tiny Stone House:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/50408309?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=162dfc7f-41c3-4484-8aa8-259960816837

You can read more detailed information about the village here:

The closest beach to the village: Karina… With my words!

A detailed and beautiful article written by Arzu Aksaya in 2021, on her blog page Yolcukal.com:

https://www.neredekal.com/blog/sokede-sakin-ve-tatli-bir-huzur-eski-doganbey-koyu/

By Zeynep Atılgan Boneval, the illustrated Journey Therapy blog post:

https://www.yolculukterapisi.com/doganbey/

A short but concise presentation of the Municipality of Söke, Eski Doğanbey:

https://www.soke.bel.tr/tarihi-merkez/eski-doganbey-koyu/12

Eski Doğanbey in Sour Dictionary

https://eksisozluk1923.com/doganbey-koyu–1919970?p=1