Author: zeynep karagoz

My fascination with Mevlevi elements is primarily spatial in origin. It stems from my discovery of the Galata Mevlevi Lodge during my high school years. This peaceful garden amidst the chaos of Beyoğlu was our resting place with my best friend before embarking on our adventures on Friday evenings. We had explored the interior of the building, but what truly captivated us was the garden itself. We literally recharged here, escaping the monotonous rhythm of classes before experiencing the fluctuating frequency of fun.

Although I later came to know Rumi and Shams, I was never a dedicated reader or a genuine follower. In fact, my relationship with spirituality remained quite distant until recently; I defined myself more as a woman of reason and science. But my interest in art and being an architect allowed me to take a look at this vast body of work.

Years later, my trip to the Galata Mevlevi Lodge brought back memories of my early youth. We enjoyed exploring the space, which had been transformed into a small museum. But it was primarily the hours I spent in the garden that brought back the feeling of that tranquility and peace. In the evening, we stayed for the Sema ceremony, crowning this journey through time with a feast that touched the heart not only visually but also through sound and breath.

Ever since that day, I’ve wanted to go to Konya, and especially to the Şeb-i Arus ceremony. In fact, I had to cancel my plane tickets the previous year because I couldn’t find tickets to the ceremony. This year, however, I didn’t miss the opportunity of the tatilbudur.com tour. I organized the girls and planned a trip to Konya with a group of five.

Program

We took the train to Konya very early in the morning, and had the opportunity to see many places during the rest of the day. After the Şeb-i Arus ceremony in the evening, we stayed at our comfortable hotel. The next day we traveled around again by bus until the train hour in the afternoon. It was a packed and a very satisfactory program. Only on the second day, around noon, as a group we separated from the group. Having had a full buffet breakfast, we skipped lunch and went to the market to shop instead. We also went to Mithat’s Tirit Restaurant by ourselves during the free time allocated to the group after the last stop. We tasted the authentic flavor of the famous Konya Tirit dish. It was so amazing! 🙂

First day:

• Istanbul – Konya high-speed train transportation
• Tavus Baba Tomb & Mosque
• Karatay Madrasah

• Tomb and Mosque of Shamsi Tabrizi

• Check-in & rest
• Shab-i Arus Ceremony

Second day:

• Sille Town & Aya Eleni Klisesi

• Konya Tropical Butterfly Garden
• Women’s Market(off-program)
• Mevlana Mausoleum & Museum

• Mithat’s Tirit Restaurant
• Konya – Istanbul high-speed train return

Apart from the Şeb-i Arus ceremony, what impressed me most in the program were the Karatay Madrasa as a venue, the Tomb and Mosque of Şemsi Tebrizi with its energy and the Mevlana Mausoleum, which was captivating on both aspects. The town of Sille, with its very well-designed museum, was a sweet touch and breathed life into the program. The Butterfly Garden was the surprising beauty of the tour; we loved it.

Shab-i Arus

The Şeb-i Arus ceremony held at the Cultural Center was a little different than I expected. The size and crowd of the venue initially made me worry that it might be a very touristy event, but that feeling completely disappeared afterwards. The ceremony started with a Sufi music concert by Ahmet Özhan, whose voice we remember from our childhood. The subsequent Sema ceremony was truly magnificent. Both the traditional Sema and the movements of the dervishes, as well as the successful lighting and arrangement of the modern venue, were enough to transport the audience to another world. The only annoying issue was the ill-mannered behavior of some inconsiderate audience members; we tried to ignore them. In the end, we all left the approximately two-hour ceremony with a feeling of “I’m so glad I attended.”

Tatilbudur Review

Actually, I don’t usually prefer traveling with tours. I prefer to do my own research and plan my own route and schedule. This way, I can travel according to my preferences and time, and it also gives space to spontaneity. The actual reason I chose this tour was because it was so difficult to find a ticket to the Şeb-i Arus ceremony.

But our tatilbudur.com experience was so satisfying and enjoyable that it made me reconsider… First of all, the pre-trip information and organization received A+ from all of us. But more than the program of the tour, our guide Mert Oymak’sHis elegant and respectful demeanor, as well as his professionalism, won the hearts of our team and the entire group. At every stop, he shared information in just the right amount—neither too much nor too little—with the confidence of someone who knew all the necessary details, satisfying every participant in this cosmopolitan tour. He answered questions and comments patiently and calmly, always with a smile on his face. We are grateful to him for reminding us the kind of person we long for with his noble stance that strikes a delicate balance between professionalism and sincerity.

Where are you, Semra?

While I was looking for a companion at first, we first became two, then four people. Semra, however, missed my messages; so she joined as the fifth later. But because she made her reservation after our group of four, she was separated from us both on the train and the bus. Moreover, since she was seated at the very back of our large tourbus, she was always the last to get off. To avoid being separated, at every new stop one of us would ask, “Where is Semra?” Of course, being a cheerful group, this turned into a joke after a few times. The random, inappropriate “Where is Semra?” exclamations made our journey more joyous.

I went to Skopje for three days but I finished going around the city in two… So I spent a day in the surrounding area. I visited a magnificent canyon, had the opportunity to look down on the city from the mountain and gained a deeper understanding of North Macedonia’s topography. In short, you can visit Skopje for two days, but three is also worth it. If you spend five days, you’ll also get to visit Ohrid.

Chapter #1 – Museums

I arrived in Skopje on a rainy day, so I decided to visit the museums first. My main goal was Archaeological Museum of North Macedonia It’s not the greatest museum; besides most of the Macedonian treasures are in Greece. But it does have some unique goddess idols. I’ve witnessed the bulding-based female goddess only here. 

Another museum nearby was Museum of Independence of North Macedonia I went here partly to shelter from the rain and to understand the modern history of the country. Most of it consists of giant oil paintings and recreations, but there are some beautiful pieces. 

I wasn’t too keen on the other museums. I tried another one, but it was closed anyway because the leaking roof.

Chapter #2 – Old Skopje

Skopje Bazaar is the most visited place… The inns, bathhouses, and old buildings, many of which have been renovated and some remain in their original state. Some of these inns and bathhouses have become galleries, art workshops, shops. The most beautiful ones are:

• https://maps.app.goo.gl/KnRhK1dnSYSVwgBF7 
• https://maps.app.goo.gl/mrFsAzCrkpjQGqAG7 
• https://maps.app.goo.gl/d2LL7YCDcJxaHePB6 
• https://maps.app.goo.gl/E3A9QsYfvo2CRHWWA 
• Kurşunlu Han is closed but you can look at it from outside https://maps.app.goo.gl/SeeLzCYKaAPTm8eb9 

Flea Market & Green BazaarI are at the northern end of the market, but frankly, there’s nothing particularly noteworthy. It’s like a smaller version of Tahtakale, with fewer and more eclectic options. I think it’s better to eat, drink, and enjoy a coffee in the market instead.

In the Skopje Fortress there’s not much to see other than the beautiful city view. However, day tours generally depart from the castle parking lot. If you’ve booked an extra day tour like me, you can arrive an hour or 45 minutes early to visit the castle too. That would be enough.

The other side of the river is a bit more modern. On the main street the house of Mother Teresa stands. I haven’t been inside, but it’s beautiful from the outside. The modern church next to it is perfect for a walk in. Besides, this street is perfect for walking & shopping. You can take the Stone Bridge (Route south of the Archaeological Museum) to the Alexander Monument and from here you can visit the street.

Part #2 – Matka Canyon and Vodno Mountain

Ohrid is actually one of the most popular destinations in North Macedonia. However, because I wanted to visit Ohrid separately and explore Skopje in detail, I didn’t include it in my three-day plan. However, since I finished the city in two days, I chose a plan from GetYourGuide, a comparative travel app I’ve used in other cities before.

One of the most popular natural wonders of the region is the Matka Canyon This tour, which included a cable car ride to the summit of Mount Vodno overlooking Skopje, took about 5-5.5 hours. The canyon is truly worth seeing. Even the dam, dating back to the turn of the century, has a unique retro aesthetic. Once inside, you can take a boat tour, which I highly recommend. The hiking route isn’t a roundtrip one; it’s a bit of a walk. It’s a 20-minute boat ride to the cave at the end of the route with a breathtaking view of the water, a visit to the cave, and a return by boat. Be warned: in the summer, locals come here for a cool-down swim, and we are told it gets very crowded.

Our way to the Vodno climb we saw St. Panteleimon -a small old Byzantine church and the Macedonian Village This is a newly built settlement called “City of Macedonian Architecture,” where they attempted to exemplify traditional Macedonian buildings. Clearly built for tourism, it is not very impressive. However, the antique, handicraft, and design shops inside are beautiful and have unique collections.

In the middle of the way to Mount Vodno, from the Cable Car Station we went up. At the top of the mountain stands the Millennium Cross It was amazing to see the geography of North Macedonia from the summit, where I learned that 80% of the country is mountainous, 

Chapter #2 – Food and Drink

Pelister is a famous restaurant right in front of the Alexander Monument. Both the place and the food are delicious; it’s not overly expensive. I had a breakfast plate called “Palenta” made with corn flakes. Even though I was very hungry, I couldn’t finish the whole plate, mind you, but it was delicious.

Kuka is a delightful little restaurant where you can sample local specialties, and it’s also affordable. Tucked away in the middle of construction, the place itself is nothing special, just the flavor and price are optimal.

I couldn’t pronounce the name of the restaurant but it is here This has a much better space with local flavors.

I’ve only eaten at the three places above. But there were two other recommended places:

• Restaurant „Old House“
• Restaurant Skopski Merak

These are both bars and live music venues, I couldn’t go 🥴

• Brooklyn
• Van Gogh Bar 

I went in for coffee:

MyWay caffe

I also had breakfast at a small restaurant:

Brotherhood

There are famous meatball restaurants in the market, but I did not try them.

Chapter #2 – Shopping

There are a few nice shops on the street which runs south from the Alexander Monument. I bought shoes/slippers from one of them—ergonomic slippers, somewhere between Birkenstock and Sabo slippers. It was a Serbian brand: :https://maps.app.goo.gl/2NTn34qxv9uzeZYL8 

On the daily tour, in Ecovillage, which masquerades as a Macedonian village, there was a shop called Esnaf… They had wonderful handmade and designer items, the most unique items. I bought a pair of earrings.

There are antique shops in the market, but I didn’t go to these. There are plenty of silver and gold shops too. The city is famous for the silverwork, like filigree, and silver plated stones.

Leg Up…

This “Legup” both surprised us and caused a lot of laughter in our vacation; the source of the leg issue is… 

The airport security system in Egypt is quite elaborate. For example, shoes must be removed at every checkpoint, regardless of their type. Be prepared for this such as choosing your socks accordingly. In addition, whether the detector beeps or not, a manual search is mandatory. They also separate men and women at that point so that the opposite sex does not touch you. So far this is logical; but the search is a little different from what we know. After the normal patting, the female security guard asks you to lift your leg up. 

Our encounter with “Legup” was a bit difficult… We did not understand what she was saying, because of her accent but also because we had never seen such a gesture before. Our friend, who went through security ahead of us to go to the toilet, heard the lady say “leg” somewhere but could not understand the rest. Then she saw that there was a stool with a footprint image pasted on top. When the lady pointed, she finally realized that she had to lift her legs one by one to be searched. Even though she warned us right after, we were equally surprised and we experienced “Legup” at least twice in each transfer. 

Hence, it became the motto of the trip! “Legup” was not limited to airport security. We started to see hints everywhere we went… We even led our guide astray with hieroglyphs in tombs where the legs were lifted up. 

Money Talks…

Currency Exchange:

When we were there, the TL / EGP (Egyptian currency) rate was approximately 1/0.7. We calculated the USD / EGP ratio as approximately 1/0.02. We followed recommendations and did not exchange money at the airport. But we couldn’t change our money in the city because the system had collapsed. After all, it was easiest to withdraw from an ATM. We chose to do this by using more secure devices in front of the branch. However, I recommend that you keep coins (small paper bills) in USD or Euro with you. Since they also accept $ or £ everywhere. The smaller banknotes the better for bargaining. You will certainly be overcharged at times but I will get to that.

Tipping:

No one warned us about this in advance including our guide. So I wanted to underline this issue… Tips are required in Egypt! They expect it everywhere, both in the service sector and even at the private tours. You may even be subjected to surprising demands, such as someone offering a napkin in the toilet or turning on a tap in the sink. Tipping drivers, waiters, bellboys and guides is understandable. But there may even be people on the street who try to offer help and expect a tip.  

Bargaining and Scraping: 

I’m so fed up with this; even angry… Egypt was very tiring in this aspect. Take the Turkish tradition of bargaining; multiply by a thousand! And at everything; even when buying water! It’s exhausting to travel with the feeling you’re constantly being ripped off. 

Whatever you intend to buy, there are many different prices. Although we were warned, we did not expect this much of it. For example, we bought our first bottle of water in Cairo, intentionally from the supermarket (Carrefour). Then when we were to buy it from the kiosk in front of the house, we asked the price first. We checked with the market price and thought 75 EGP (that is, approximately 50 TL)was reasonable and bought it. We had heard that water was not cheap in Cairo. Meanwhile we avoided his attempt to defraud us while giving back our change. We were still ignorant about the overcharging until our guide in Aswan scolded the market that was trying to sell us water for 25 EGP. And we bought a big bottle of water for 15 EGP! Through the end we were tired of constantly devoting energy to bargaining and at some point we gave up and we were discouraged from buying anything. 

Another example of overcharging we came across was in the textile shop where our guide took us. The same dress and shalwar that we bought there was at a third of the price in the shop on the ship. I decided to buy the cheap one too so that the average price was lower! The same happened at the papyrus shop. There was a ½ or ⅓ difference between the price where the guide took us and the museum’s official store. It is actually common for guides to take commission from the places they take people. We are familiar with the subject from Turkey, but honestly this was too much! 

Traffic & Pedestrianism: 

Although we have problems with Turkish traffic, the situation in Egypt is different; it is total chaos! The lanes on the roads – if there are any – are purely for decorative purposes. Nobody goes in their lane, they don’t even care. Likewise with the traffic lights; no one cares about the color. There is a constant cacophony of horns, especially in the city centre. Therefore, the thought of renting a car and driving it is pure fantasy. I think it is not worth testing your driving skills and nerves at intersections governed by the law of the jungle. 

Being a pedestrian is another nightmare! Because the same irregularity also applies to pedestrians. Our first crossing test was in the famous Tahrir Square, where 6 roads meet. When our guide took us to the corner where the pedestrian crossing and lights were located, we were a little surprised at first when we saw that the oncoming vehicles did not stop at all. But we experienced the real shock when Mira threw herself onto the road and crossed the road from the middle of the intersection on a route that crosses three roads at once, dragging us along with her. To my surprise she said “don’t worry, the cars will stop when they see you, no one has died yet”. We had a similar experience when our ride dropped us off on the wrong side of the road. The incoming vehicles were extremely fast. Finally, our driver Mahmud took pity on us, got out and took us across the street himself.

In other words, being a driver and being a pedestrian is difficult in Egypt, especially in Cairo.  

Turkish TV Series: 

I had heard that Turkish TV series were popular in Latin and Mediterranean countries. But we didn’t expect this much in Egypt! Almost all our local guides; especially the women, were fascinated by Turkish TV series. Because of this we bonded at jet speed. Some were fans of Özcan Deniz, some of Kıvanç Tatlıtuğ, and some from the new generation actors. But TV series became an excuse for all kinds of heated and joyful conversations. Even if you don’t watch any, it’s always good for breaking the ice

Slowly Hasan Şaş: 

We were exposed to this phrase on the third day since we did not interact with many people before… Whenever we told anyone that we were Turkish or that we come from Turkey, everyone said “slowly Hasan Şaş”. Sometimes they didn’t finish the phrase. Gradually, we got used to it so much that we started to say the rest when one started the sentence. We thought this was because of the famous phrase said to Hasan Şaş, who scored the first goal against Brazil in the 2002 World Cup. It turns out that there is a porn actor who is famous in the Arab community and whose name is similar to Hasan Şaş (something like Hassan Sheish)!

The Route…

We set out on the road on Friday night… We had bought very cheap Hurghada tickets months ago. When our travel schedule became clear, we decided that it would be more logical to cover the kilometers between the places we wanted to go by air, and we took our intermediate flights with Egyptian Airways.

Because our first stop was Cairo, we took the first flight from Hurghada to Cairo as soon as we landed. We thought we’d spend the few hours between flights lingering in the terminal. But we didn’t know about these two things: 

1) International and domestic terminals at Hurghada airport are different terminals and the distance between them is very long. We decided to walk because the map said 27 minutes and we had plenty of time. It turned out that this was not a good idea. Not only is the road very dark, deserted and long, but the night wind in Hurghada is very harsh. 

2) Hurghada domestic terminal is not comfortable… First, it is not even open for 24 hours. They open two hours before the flight time and the lounge where you wait until the napping security at the back arrives is tiny. There is neither proper seating nor air conditioning. So the hours in between flights were a little painful.

We were at Cairo airport around 7 in the morning. Fortunately, our guide had organized the transfer and we had arranged early check-in at the Airbnb house. We had the opportunity to rest before committing to the program. Therefore, we started our first day a little late with the new museum. This was the minimal walking destination and an excellent introduction to Egyptian history. 

Cairo stops:

1. Day – Saturday:

• Grand Egyptian Museum – GEM (Grand Egyptian Museum): This ranked number one among the museums I have ever visited in my life! Both the complex itself and the collection inside are very impressive, with its modern architecture and references to the ancient Egyptian civilization with small details and materials. The selection of works, their displays, including the layout of the halls and exhibition areas are very well planned and it manages to take its audience on a journey through time. Moreover, when you encounter the view of the Giza pyramids from the top of the grand stairs, you feel a different kind of magic. We all had goosebumps; I even had tears in my eyes!

• Food at the Museum – Zooba: A nice place to taste traditional Egyptian flavors in a modern and comfortable environment. However, Egyptians love spices; FYI. 

2. Day – Sunday:

• Saint Barbara Church: We had the opportunity to be a visitor to the Coptic Sunday service here. It was an amazing experience! Here we learned that the word Coptic comes from the name given by the Hellenes to the country that became a colony after Alexander the Great’s conquest of Egypt. So actually in Hellenic it means Egyptian. The alphabet and the language itself come from ancient Egyptian hieroglyphs. We could only witness this language, which no longer exists in daily life, on such an occasion. It was very impressive to watch the ceremony in the back; we even had the opportunity to take a few pictures! We were glad we changed our program and allocated Sunday to the old Cairo region just for this experience. 

• Ben Ezra Synagogue: A very old synagogue with an impressive story and engravings. Worth seeing but not fascinating. Photography is also prohibited inside. 
• Saints Sergius and Bacchus Kilisesi: A very important church for the Christian world; It is said that Jesus hid in the cave here during his visit to Egypt with Mary. The cave under the church can be visited. Also worth seeing are the Coptic engravings and the library inside.  

• The Hanging Church: This place is named so because it was built on the old city walls and has no foundation. Indeed, when you go up to the church (one floor up), you see the gaps between the walls underground and it makes you feel as if the structure is suspended in the air. There are many beautiful woodworks and decorations here too. It should definitely be visited.
• Lunch break: We went to the heart of the city to eat Koshari / Kosher, Egypt’s most popular street delicacy: Koshary Abou Tarek. I definitely recommend it; It’s a different taste but you should try it at least once. I wouldn’t expect that the combination of lentils, rice, pasta and hot and sour sauces would produce such a delightful taste. 
• The Egyptian Museum (National Egyptian Museum): Before the new museums were built, this place was packed like a warehouse. In my opinion, it is still a bit too crowded and very important works are not exhibited like they deserve to be. Yet its collection is incredibly rich and important; a must go. Especially the treasures of Tutankhamun are masterpieces. By the way Tutankhamen, who came to the throne as a child and died young, was probably the poorest of the pharaohs! Considering that the Egyptian pharaohs began to prepare for death as soon as they ascended to the throne, had their graves dug and accumulated treasures to take with them throughout their reign, imagine how much more there must have been in other places! But unfortunately, all the tombs were robbed and the treasures were stolen until Egypt realized their value and started to protect them. However, we can witness his wealth because Tutankhamen’s tomb remained hidden and was found very late. 

• Coffee & Dessert – The Pear Cafe: I drank salep at the modern cafe opposite the museum, which also has delicious snacks, and I really liked the nuances of the Egyptian style. 

3. Day – Monday:

• Sakkara Necropolü: This is a region with the oldest pyramids in Egypt. The most famous of the pyramid attempts before the world wonders were built in Giza, The Step Pyramid Here. It is an open-air museum that includes a huge tomb complex with a temple. Our guide told us that the ideal tour inside a pyramid was here: Some Piramidi We had also learned that visiting the burial chamber inside the Giza pyramids was a long, claustrophobic, crowded path and it was very expensive even though there was nothing to see inside. We went inside the Unas Pyramid burial chamber through a relatively short and undifficult tunnel; and it really felt like we went to another world! The hieroglyphs on the walls, the stars on the ceilings, the architectural structure of the burial chamber and the feeling of the walls we could touch were completely different. In the complex, you can visit here (be careful, you can enter the tomb until 12.30 noon) and the magnificent wall paintings and stories of Iduth, Unas-Ank, and Inefert I highly recommend visiting the tomb complex. 

• Papyrus Workshop & Shop: On our return from Sakkara, our guide took us to a very large papyrus workshop. Here we both saw how it was made and the varieties and patterns. But later we saw that similar ones were sold in museum shops at much more affordable prices. If you are an expert on paper and the designs this may be the right address, but if you are going to buy it as a souvenir I would advise you not to waste your money here. And if you intend to buy, be sure to bargain.

• Pyramids of Giza: Giza Necropolis is a world wonder with the giant Pyramid of Cheops and his son’s Kafre Pyramid and his grandchild’s Mikerinos Piramidi with tiny pyramids like family tombs in their shadow. Great Sphinx of Giza is gorgeous! It is truly impossible not to admire these timeless structures, which are beautiful from every angle. If we were going to attempt camel riding, we said let’s do it in the view of the pyramids. It is indeed a very fun, even a little frightening experience… It is easy to get on that huge animal, but it is a bit difficult to stay on it while taking off, swinging and landing. We completed our tour with legendary colors as the sun set on the sand dunes behind Sphinx. 
• Essence Workshop & Store: A shop that we later learned that the center of this business is Asuan, and which we visited under the supervision of a guide (and of course with a commission). I still bought 2 essences of my choice with bargaining of course. 
• Textile Store: Our guide took us to a place where we later saw the same goods at one-third to one-fourth the price elsewhere. But the store was satisfactory in terms of the rich collection, comfortable dressing booths and an overall comfortable shopping experience. If you don’t want to feel like you’ve been ripped off later, I suggest you skip it. But if you want to pay the money to avoid all-handed interventions and haggling to death wherever you go, there are things with good quality / price performance. 
• Dining in the Center: This time, we had dinner in a relatively quiet place in the most lively part of the city (like our Taksim) to meet our Egyptian friend.  

4. Day – Tuesday:

• The National Museum of Egyptian Civilization – NMEC (National Museum of Civilization of Egypt): Its building, collection and way of displaying are very impressive. Everyone’s favorite is the exhibition of 20 mummies downstairs but I liked the main exhibition hall more because of the real life traces of history. A selection from antique cosmetic products to medical instruments, from the magnificent embalming tent to legendary chariot decorations. The parade of 20 mummies arriving to this museum was a ceremony as magnificent as the exhibitions themselves. 

• Cairo Citadel We did not have time to visit this region in detail, where the Islamic and Ottoman period works dominate; we could only view from afar. Since the priority of our travel plan was the ancient Egyptian civilization, we focused on other points. 
• City of the dead: On our way from Cairo Castle to Khan el-Khalili bazaar, we learned that the huge area on the road was called the City of the Dead. This place, where even the police are afraid to enter and where disorder and crime are rampant, is actually a giant cemetery where thousands of people live. These people living in unhealthy conditions in invaded buildings and graves seem to reveal one of the unpleasant aspects of the country. Our guide, who was worried about us even standing on the side of the road, let alone getting inside, advised us to only take pictures from the vehicle. 

• Khan el-Khalili Souq: We entered the bazaar area from a relatively distant gate and immersed ourselves in the streets, enjoying the magnificent madrasahs and social complexes around us. I’m glad we did so; it was truly delightful to walk past the magnificent structures of the past, intertwined with daily life and to wander around this urban space that has not lost much of its elegant majesty. As we entered the bazaar, we breathed in the colors and smells of the festivities. But an army of salesmen and the nightmare of bargaining were also after us. 

• Airport transfer: We had put the bags in the car in the morning;so we went directly from the market to the airport. 

Aswan stops:

Our arrival in Asuan was very late as our flight was delayed. We went from the airport to our booked Airbnb house again with a pre-arranged transfer. It was a shame we only stayed a few hours; because it was a very clean and comfortable house with a huge terrace. But since there were so many places we wanted to see and we had a long way to go, we agreed to start the day at 4 in the morning. 

5. Day – Wednesday:

• Sunrise break in the desert: As we set off from Asuan in the dark, sunrise happened somewhere in the middle of the desert. Our experienced drivers took a break at the right time and gave us the opportunity to breathe in this magical moment. 

• Abu Simbel – Temples of Ramses & Nefertari
• Getting settled on the boat: We settled into our rooms for a comfortable journey on the Nile from Asuan to Luxor. Since the journey would start at night, this gave us the opportunity to see a little bit of Asuan. 
• Phila Temple: In fact, this is a temple built under Roman rule but following ancient Egyptian tradition. It is much more preserved because it was built relatively recently and is located on an island on the Nile. Our guide in Asuan was our favorite throughout the trip… Nereem made us laugh and helped us start figuring hieroglyphic characters out. 

• Big Dam Lake: Since this is one of the largest dams built on the world’s longest river (it is currently the second largest dam), it is a spot visited by all tours. Since it is a part of modern history, not ancient, it is ideal for a short panoramic break. 
• Nubian Village Visit: An village on the banks of the Nile that will give you a real African experience and make you feel like you are in another country. Here, for a purely touristic visit, local people offer guest houses, crocodile and camel shows, tea and hibiscus treats, and sell authentic items, crafts and souvenirs in colorful painted buildings. Since we were tired of shopping, we just drank tea and left a tip. It makes sense to finish the day so you can see both the riot of colors and patterns and the illuminated stalls. 

• Food and travel on the boat: One of the things we applauded our guide for was the choice of boat. We had a great time for 3 days on a truly comfortable and stylish ship. After the hustle and bustle we experienced until we got here, traveling along the Nile accompanied by scenery was delightful. The food was amazing, the staff was friendly yet elegant and distant enough for the personal space we required. Moreover, the two shops on the ship offer both prices (they said it was affordable because they did not give commission to the guides). 

6. Day – Thursday:

• Kom-Ombo Temple: This temple, also built during the Ptolemaic period, had the mission of bringing together the gods of both regions at the junction of northern and southern Egypt. Therefore, in the twin temple model; there are two entrances side by side, a dichotomy extending from two corridors to two sacred rooms. One side is dedicated to Horus and the other side is dedicated to the crocodile-shaped local god. The gods are engraved on the walls of the temple, also changing partners with each other like a swinger temple! We learned that the secret room with special acoustics was used by the pharaohs who addressed the public in the role of gods, and saw a relief showing the dates of Egyptian festivals and the numbers in hieroglyphic. There are also interesting mummified crocodiles in the small museum next door. It was a very enjoyable visit.

• Edfu – Temple of Horus: This is a classic stop on Nile tours. Additionally, Edfu is one of the largest settlements in the region. Our local guide took us to the temple by horse carriage from the port where the boat docked. Unfortunately, the view on the road was not very pleasant; a lot of veiled women, chaotic streets. If I had a choice, I would choose tuk tuk motors. But the temple is truly impressive; it was discovered late because it remained under the sand for years. Therefore, it is one of the most preserved temples. Moreover, it is very big and the front hall and the corridors between the rear walls are exquisite. 

• Traveling to Luxor on the ship: We were very happy to be on our comfortable ship again. We filled our stomachs and our souls with tea, cocktails and food. 

7. Day – Friday:

• Luxor Valley of the Kings: Here are the tombs the pharaohs began to dig under the mountains in the desert on the west side of Luxor as soon as they came to the throne, long after the time of pyramids, but still long ago. At that time, the east bank of the Nile was about life and the west was about the afterlife. I had been reading about it in books for years and was eager to visit. We set off to the valley early in the morning to avoid the crowds and to get some relief from the desert heat, even in December. We bought our tickets at the entrance of the valley.  Because there are many graves in the valley. You buy more than one ticket and to choose which tombs to visit, you must either be guided or you should research in advance. The main entrance ticket allows you to visit only three of them, and some tombs are subject to special tickets. We did our research and decided we wanted to enter the SETI I (this is the most expensive and deserves it, this is the most beautiful one), which requires an extra ticket, and enter the RAMSES V & VI tombs. We also followed the advice of our guide and chose the 3 tombs included in the general ticket as RAMSES I, MERENPTAH (son of the famous Ramses II) and RAMSES IX. We were also very pleased with our choices. In the end, we saw the most beautiful ones, both close to each other and in terms of variety and richness. I would have liked to visit the tomb of the most famous pharaoh Ramses II but it was closed for restoration. As a result, we were fascinated by each and every one of them, especially SETI I! This is a underground world, colorful and decorated with gold, decorations, hieroglyphs and pictures depending on the period they ruled. If I were to rank it, this place is second on my Egypt list after Giza. Be sure to see it and spare at least 1-2 hours; I advise you to choose the tombs you will enter beforehand and be prepared for the heat even in December. 

• Hatshepsut Temple: I cannot say that it is the most impressive temple I have seen in terms of structure or decoration, but its history, way of construction and its importance in terms of architecture / art history make this place indispensable on the Egyptian list. First of all, Hatshepsut, the only female pharaoh of ancient Egypt, had this temple built. If you have the opportunity to read it a little, you can clearly see the importance and impact of this female pharaoh in Egyptian history. But the pharaoh who came after her, Thutmosis III, became so angry with Hatshepsut, who was his stepmother, aunt and mother-in-law (yes, it is a bit complicated, but in short, she married her own daughter to the son born to her husband and her sister, married when she herself could not produce a male heir), that he tried to erase her from history. He may be right to some extent; I think the woman tried to kill the boy by sending him to war at a young age. But he did not die and returned victorious, eliminating Hatshepsut when he ascended to the throne. Afterwards, he tried to destroy the her pictures, reliefs, cartouches (seals with the names of the pharaohs) and even some of her great works. But it seems like luck wasn’t on his side; the more he spewed his hatred, the more famous the female pharaoh became. Another importance of this temple carved from the mountain into the mountain is its colonnade system. The Hellenes who visited Egypt were so inspired by the style, they developed the shape we call Doric columns, creating a huge mark in the history of architecture. 

• Statues of Memnon: In fact, the giant statues at the entrance of the temple that were previously located here were given this name by the Roman commanders who came later. When they arrived, the wind was making strange sounds through the cracks inside the monolithic stone statues, which were damaged by earthquakes and floods. Its name remained like this from the stories they dedicated to King Memnon. But thankfully, they also restored it beautifully. Since the temple is not here anymore, the site can be visited quickly. It is already on the way from the Valley of the Kings to the Temple of Karnak. 

• Karnak Temple: This place actually impressed me more than the Pyramids of Giza and the Valley of the Kings. I even thought for a long time about putting it at the top of my list but in the end I decided to be objective and placed it third. Because the effect it created on me was not about architecture, scale, and mystery like Giza, and it does have an elegant richness like the Valley. It is the story here that fascinated me, gave me goosebumps as I wandered among the columns, even brought tears to my eyes and took my breath away. That’s why this huge temple complex, built over thousands of years, worshiped for thousands of years, where thousands of people prayed from their hearts, made  my heart tremble. You can learn about its history, architecture and all its features from many places. But you can only feel the energy of those halls when you embrace the place with all your senses at the same time. Do not pass by without saluting Hatshepsut’s obelisk… Since Thutmosis III tried to destroy it and buried it, it emerged from time as intact as the first day; overlooking the temple. 

• Luxor Temple: This giant temple, connected by an ancient road called Sphinx Avenue lined with thousands of sphinxes on both sides, is also very impressive. What impressed me the most was seeing the traces of the times on the structure, layer by layer. With the female elegance columns made by Hatshepsut, the colossal statues of Ramses II, the reliefs around the sacred room, the play of light and shadow made by the sun; it deserves a tour of at least an hour. Inside the temple, which was buried under mud for a long time due to the flooding, there is also a mosque in the middle of the courtyard.

• Overnight on board

8. Day – Saturday:

• Luxor Balloon Tour: They picked us up from the boat at 4.30 in the morning and took us first by motor over the Nile and then by minibuses to the west bank, to the plain behind the Memnon Statues. At almost dawn, the balloons were inflated with great excitement. A total of 30 people gathered in our large 8-compartment basket, each with a maximum of 4 people, and we took off. Even though we did not go very far, it was wonderful to watch the Nile River, the border of the brown desert where the Valley of the Kings and Hatshepsut Temple is located with lush green fields and gardens, houses, traces of temples, some in ruins and some still standing. The sunrise was wonderful from our colorful and bright balloons. We climbed up to 2000 meters, glided from low altitudes and completed our journey on the side plain. As we returned to the boat via the same route.

• Hurghada transfer: Like all our transfers, this was organized in advance by our guide. We loaded up and spread out in the spacious van, grateful that we didn’t have to deal with it ourselves. We had the opportunity to sleep during the approximately 4.5-hour journey. 
• Checking into the hotel: We were very pleased with the hotel we chose through Booking. Everything in the building, which looks like it was newly built, was spotlessly clean and comfortable, and the employees were both friendly and the politest, most knowledgeable people we have ever seen in this country. This hotel did not have its own beach, but one with an entrance fee of 150 EGP (approximately 100 TL / person) was right across the street. I strongly recommend: TK Royal Spa & Hotel
• Beach Enjoyment: We took towels from the hotel, crossed the street in our slippers and walked a little. We arrived at a sweet little beach, similar to Antalya, with reed umbrellas and wooden sun loungers. It was wonderful to swim in the sea and taste the Red Sea in December. A glass of Egyptian beer and fries were also delicious. 

• Food and rest at the hotel: After our crazy-paced trip, we decided to eat at the hotel on our last night. We enjoyed the Italian restaurant on the terrace overlooking Hurghada. A bottle of local white wine.
• Airport transfer & return home: Our hotel was close to the airport; the transfer was smooth. The airport transition was fast-paced. Our passports were checked at least 5-6 times, our legs were lifted 3-4 times. We were surprised that there was plenty of alcohol in Duty Free shops and even cheaper than in Turkey. Unfortunately, it was no surprise that even here the clerk at the cash register tried to add 3-5 $ to the price tags. Our connecting flight to Antalya took off without any delays. Due to transferring flights , it is not possible to visit the Duty Free side on the Turkish side. After making us wait for an hour at the domestic flights baggage claim, only to find out that our luggage was on the international flights, we had to hustle quite a bit to get them. The lack of foresight of Pegasus and customs staff ultimately delayed our departure from the airport even though the flight was on time. Still, it was nice to return home.

Budget & Prices…

I can categorize our expenses for the trip as follows:

Transportation/flights:

• Promotional Pegasus flight tickets purchased 9 months in advance (direct flight IST – HURG, return transfer via Antalya) are approximately 200 USD
• Egypt Airways flights from Hurghada to Cairo and Cairo to Aswan are 170 USD

Total 370 USD per person

Accomodation:

• Cairo Airbnb – centrally located, clean enough (the building was dirty but we were willing) big apartment with a view 200 USD
• One night clean apartment in Asuan 50 USD
• One night in Hurghada, clean, brand new hotel (2 apart rooms for 2 people) 90 USD

Total for 4 People is $340 – That’s $85 per person

Guidance Services:

Private guide for Cairo for 4 people and all logistics costs (including airport transfers): 

Daily cost is 250 USD for 4 people, which is approximately 62.5 USD per person.

Museum and Ruins Entrance Fees: 

• GEM 25 usd/person, 
• 11 usd national museum, 
• 17.5 usd pyramids sakkara, 
• 12.5 usd giza pyramids 
• 10 usd civilization museum = 

Cairo subtotal $76

• Abu Simbel 15 USD entry 
• Aswan Fila entry 550 ep = 11 usd
• Asuan Dam entrance 62.5 ep = 1.25 usd
• Aswan Nubia tea 200 ep = 4 usd
• Kom-Ombo input 500 ep = 10 usd
• Edfu entrance entrance 550 ep = 11 usd
• valley of the kings: general admission (3 tombs) 750 ep, Seti I 2000 ep, Ramses V&VI 220 ep = 2970 ep total = 59.4 usd
• Hatshepsut Temple 450 ep = 9 usd
• Karnak Temple 12.5 usd
• Luxor Temple 500 ep = 10 usd

Total 218.5 USD per person 

+ vehicle transfers (in some historical sites, the distance between the entrance and the attraction is covered by shuttle services, which are also charged) + tips 

All of these extras and the water and coffee we bought cost approximately 50 USD per person.

Cruise & Local Guidance on the Nile: 

• 4 people, 3 days and nights in double rooms on a comfortable ship with full board (we had a delicious 3-course buffet meal) on the Nile River 
• Abu Simbel transfer (approximately 3 hours x roundtrip) 
• Local guide services in Abu Simbel, Asuan, Kom-Ombo, Edfu and Luxor
• Transfer to Hurghada in Luxor (approximately 4.5 hours) 
• Airport-hotel transfers in Asuan and Hurghada (2 times in total) 
• Sunrise balloon tour in Luxor

4 Persons Total 4900 USD – 1225 USD per person

Prepare you must…

Even though we didn’t go to Egypt with a standard tour, we were lucky… We did our research; our group was made of an archaeology student, a history student, an architect interested in art and mythology and a fourth who was eager to listen to us. We were already a little equipped from different backgrounds; we kind of knew where we would go and what we wouldn’t miss. Still, we took the advice and hired a guide who would organize our entire trip and accompany us on our route. 

I recommend the same… For Planning, logistics, transfers, guidance and information and for minimum exposure to the unpleasant side of Egypt, is worth it. Moreover, private group guides are not very expensive. I would only suggest to be careful when shopping. Of course, you can also choose to go on a predesigned tour. But for us, there were too many places we wanted to see, details we wanted to take time to examine. In short, our priorities were different and the corresponding organizations were very expensive! 

Of course we were also really lucky to have a friend living in Egypt. During my time in the 2019 TEDxReset talk executive team, I had met Lydia Bassaly After we met she had emigrated from the USA back to Cairo. And although she was nine months pregnant, she helped us and introduced us to our beautiful guide Mira. She even entrusted her newborn baby to her husband and accompanied us for a night. She wiped our weariness clean by sharing her golden heart and her warm smile.

Ultimately we, four women, were able to undertake an incredible independent trip with a little effort, a little luck and the will to look at the bright side of everything, with a budget too. Our biggest luck was our harmony as a group and our cheerfulness. It is not easy laughing out loud at the UFO dancing dudes, hitting the road at 4 in the mornings, taking an average of 20 thousand steps a day and constantly worrying about getting ripped off! 

Egyptian Fatigue…

During our trip, we talked repeatedly about the reasons for this moral, cultural and economic corruption with my comrades and a few Egyptian friends. Among these, historical topics such as being under a very harsh and long religious oppression and Arab influence, the lack of the drive for independence even in the old civilization, and being oppressed by different powers as colonies since ancient times were at the forefront. The loss of their original language was at the top of the list. 

While the current state of the country was sad, I found myself thinking whether this darkness might be their own doing. I had heard similar stories from others who visited Egypt, but I did not expect this much cultural corruption. Especially after reading about its glorious history and mythology with admiration for years. It’s as if they’ve trapped themselves in a vicious circle. It seems impossible not to have accumulated a lot of malediction from so many people, from the stories such as cheating, scamming, deceiving, etc. 

The karma / energy / curse created by approaching people with bad intentions who came to this country, which is the only surviving one of the 7 ancient wonders of the world and therefore is a unique and constant tourism source… I think this is the predicament of this chaotic, poor and corrupt system. Moral / ethical corruption causes everything to collapse with it. What remains is an exploited and impoverished rubble from a majestic and ancient civilization.

In this sense, we commemorated Atatürk frequently and gratefully while we were in Egypt. We were also worried about the future of our own country. But that’s enough said for now. 

Ultimately, Egypt feels like a country stuck between heart and mind. You follow the magical traces of a rich, wise, majestic, ancient civilization in this desert land. When you dig through the sand, dust and a dark layer of mud, the past shines brightly from below, sometimes close to the surface, sometimes buried leagues deep. But today there is a sad fog over these lands. Just like a star that has shined for thousands of years turns into a black hole. Now it’s a shadow, absorbing all with the light. The streets, the city, even the people evoke a feeling of dark chaos. Some stories that we witnessed imprinted our hearts and gave us hope. But their voices echo like a weak whisper in a huge roar. The land seems to have both a hair-raising magic and a frightening poison at the same time. Maybe it has always been like this, but only the story of white wizards survived the centuries.