Author: zeynep karagoz

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The Nomad Witch & Türkiye Nomad Fest 2025

I have two concepts that require explanation…

The Issue of Nomadism

Actually, I don’t really believe in definitions by titles, professions, or job descriptions. We are the children of a generation that witnessed the birth of new professions while classic ones were still in vogue. And I confess that we set out with the intention of building careers within these established frameworks. But looking back, even on the eve of the university exams, my personal dream was to be a multi-faceted person. In high school, I might have exaggerated a little when I said I would be an architect, design film sets, and pursue art; holding exhibitions, writing books, composing music, and occasionally singing on stage for pleasure. I was interested in all of them, and I didn’t want to give up any.

But just as life goes, I gradually fell into line. When I entered the Academy of Architecture in Mimar Sinan University with great enthusiasm and high grades, music fell victim first. I did not get involved in set design; the difficulties of my father’s profession had been humming in the background of my childhood for years. Only once, with mischievous enthusiasm, did I contribute to a play staged by an old friend at a theater festival. I continued drawing because it was a side hustle to my profession; until the digital world took the pens from our hands and made the mouse and the keyboard our crown jewels. I continued writing; but in the secluded corners that the struggle of life allowed, and kept them to myself.

Yet, the core of a person never changes… Versatility and variability have ultimately became the main themes of my career. First an architect, then an experience designer, then a volunteer, then a founder of an association, and finally, needing to earn money, I became a trainer and educational designer. Of course, since all of these required a legal entity, I also became a manager, accountant, HR specialist, customer representative, marketing and sales manager – in short, a jack of all trades. At one point, we called ourselves “makers”; we even founded Turkey’s first Makerspace, becoming social entrepreneurs. On the other hand, thanks to Robotel Turkey, which added meaning to our lives, we delved into the world of civil society. Instead of narrowing down to a single goal, my career path had expanded and became a wide range. The constantly changing definitions on my business cards are proof.

By mid-middle age, somewhere between the world’s COVID-19 crisis and the personal fronts, I made peace with this “fickle nature” of mine. I let myself go with the flow, pursuing things I loved, things that gave meaning to my life, and following the paths opened by opportunities. At a certain point of exhaustion I needed to do nothing; the biggest lesson I learned was how to stop. To both let go of what was over and to be able to start anew, I set out on the road. My goal wasn’t just to go, to escape; it wasn’t even to arrive somewhere. I simply embraced the incredible lightness and peace of being on the road; the liberating power of stepping outside my comfort zone; the courage that comes from being unbreakable through flexibility; and the flawed magnificence of life.

So I became semi-nomadic! I can’t exactly say that ı am a nomad; because I still have a base station, a place I call home. But the idea of ​​being on the road, turning strict plans into intentions and chasing opportunities, has gradually become central to my life. In fact, it’s so ingrained in my veins that if I stay in one place for too long, my blood starts to boil. Thus, my life has become half traveler, half retiree.

The Witchcraft Issue

As I traveled the world, I began to appreciate its blessings; pondering how I can live harmoniously with Mother Earth, and appreciating the value of her gifts. I used to be more of a city dweller, but drawing strength from nature’s cycles, I’ve became a person of the four elements.

First, I made peace with air… I greeted the rising and setting sun; I amused myself with the clouds; I bent down and resisted the wind in the storm; I sought healing from the moon and stars. As the days passed, I began to admire the beauty of the universe more and more, and to fall in love with the myriad forms of the sky.

Second, I came to terms with water… On every route, I made the water – the river or the sea – my guide. I strolled along its banks, finding solace; I immersed myself both in the water and in myself. At times I surrendered to its current, or bowed respectfully before it and stepped aside.

Then I reunited with the earth… I began to touch the trees in my garden, pick their fruits, smell the flowers, and find peace in the sway of leaves. From there, I ventured into the streets, groves, forests, valleys, and mountains. I gratefully accepted its bountiful gifts and began to utilize them. I followed the traces, recipes, and flavors inherited from my mother. Vinegars, jams, sauces, liqueurs, wines, preserves, spices, oils, and remedies; I was a traveler on the path of what comes from the earth and returns to the earth. I collected the ashes from my stove and the compost from my garbage; I planted medicinal herbs.

And finally, I played with fire… I learned to warm myself without burning in the flames. I learned to nurture friendship with love, laughter, and passion; to nourish love with care and effort; to unite and rise together with other fires when necessary, and to give each other space and turn to ashes when appropriate. And also to simply be present when our demise is so eminent,

Over time, I started making natural dishes, natural remedies, natural flavors, and natural cosmetics; and I shared these with friends and family. Occasionally, when asked what I did for a living, I started saying “witchcraft.” Indeed, later on, my interest in history, mythology, philosophy, and esotericism led me more towards non-materialistic elements. While trying to heal my own troubles, I also became a traveler in the primeval world.

Career Matters

Nomadic witchcraft isn’t a profession in the conventional sense; it’s certainly not a career. In fact, I don’t make any money from it. I don’t sell my creations or how-to content; I simply share them with those who are interested. At most, I take pictures or videos and post them, or I share the costs.

At the same time, I’m accumulating new friendships everywhere I go. Some projects stem from volunteering, some from sharing troubles, some from work or passion, and some simply from friendships born from crossing paths.

For example, one of them is ARTEMITOS…A journey where art meets myth, where breath and body work find expression through archetypes, and where the power within us is shared through non-violent communication. An interdisciplinary women’s retreat. A sustainable travel experience where we can both nourish ourselves on our individual paths and multiply it by creating and sharing. But I will write more about this later.

Another one is…Türkiye Nomad Fest This organization, or rather the Digital Nomad community, which represents the new generation of nomadism, is the meeting point for this movement in Turkey. You can see this concept and lifestyle of digital nomadism on their website. The Türkiye’s first Nomad Festival in Alanya was organized by long-time followers of the community, leading business people in the entrepreneurial world  in October 2025. And I can tell you how I got involved.

While thinking about nomad life and designing Artemitos I was introduced to the concept of digital nomadism while chatting with friends. It’s a community somewhat different from, but inspired by, the nomadic culture we know from our own ancestral history. Thanks to technology, these people have the ability and opportunity to work remotely, anywhere in the world. They travel and create at the same time. Some, like me, have a conventional home they return to occasionally; others live in a different corner of the world each season. My friend Neşen Yücel, who has been working in the entrepreneurial ecosystem for years, and her husband Patrick Bosteels, whom we recently lost, had long been followers of this community. A few years ago, they intended to organize a Nomad festival in Turkey; but the circumstances didn’t allow it. Finally, Neşen, along with two female friends who shared the same dream – Mine Dedekoca and Gizem Burtecin – rolled up their sleeves and succeeded in bringing together a new generation of nomads from all over the world in Alanya in 2025. I was proud to be a part of this gathering as the Nomadic Witch 

My Experience at the Türkiye Nomad Festival

You can see the information and content of this festival, which was held for the first time in Turkey.from the site and from social media accounts As for me, I can share my impressions, comments, and what I’ve learned from it…

First of all, I salute the organizing team and bow before them with respect. They not only successfully organized an international event at a professional level, but they also transformed it into a genuine, warm, and unpretentious gathering. While the first of such an event is almost a miracle, they brought together well-known figures and veterans from around the world, mingling them with novices like myself. From the accommodation provided by the hotel to the meeting tent, from the rich and diverse program to the lively evening entertainment, they delivered a truly remarkable performance worthy of a standing ovation.

Over several days, in a series of sometimes simultaneous sessions, we covered topics such as digital nomadism, co-living and co-working environments, the tools of entrepreneurship and solo entrepreneurship, opportunities created by AI and other technologies, traveling bloggers, projects like mine, as well as art and wellness sessions. Participation was open to all sessions and we took pleasant breaks to enjoy Alanya in October. In the evenings, we got to know each other better through social circles, pleasant dinners, and fun costume parties.

Personally, I left Alanya with multiple benefits. I had the opportunity to get to know the digital nomad community, which I had only heard about and to understand how they live, what they value, and their perspectives on life. I also had the chance to present my own project and receive feedback, and as a fresh semi-nomad, I learned how I can be inspired by shared stories, what I can share with others, and what we can do together. Most of all, meeting sincere yet respectful, realistic yet hopeful, warm and elegant, kind-hearted, and vibrant people was wonderful.

Now I too am a part of this nomadic world. I’m already making plans to meet old and new comrades in other festivals in different corners of the world. Perhaps I’ll attend some festivals as a guest, others as a speaker or a workshop leader. Maybe I’ll visit some initiatives in person. But one thing is certain: this Nomad Community has created a new source of nourishment and creation for me; I am grateful.

Note: Many thanks to.Chantelle Flores for the wonderful photos she took & for sharing her story with me!

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Royal Cities of Morocco / Western Morocco

First of all, Morocco is a much safer, more relaxed, and more enjoyable country than I expected… After our experience in Egypt, as a group of women, we were a little hesitant to come to Morocco on our own but it wasn’t as we feared. Stating my final evaluation upfront: I would definitely go back to Morocco; and not with a tour. I would visit the eastern Fes region and the Mediterranean coast that we didn’t get to see, and I would revisit some of the places we did like Marrakech.

Instead of writing down specific recommendations, I’m sharing the program using color coding. The places on the tour program.are normal, the ones we went to on our own are BOLD. I’m also adding scores according to my rating such as +++ to places we like and — to those you really do not have to see. I’m also adding some critical locations from the map.

Program

Day 1: ISTANBUL – CASABLANCA – MARRAKECH

Day 2, Marrakech

  • MarrakechVisit to the Gardens of Majorella+++
  • Argan oil break ++
  • Essaouira Turu(One of the world-famous former Portuguese cities on the Atlantic coast):
    • The city’s citadel, fishing harbor, and Medina Market.++++

Day 3, Marrakech

4.Gün MARRAKECH – RABAT – CASABLANCA

Day 5: Casablanca – Istanbul

  • Airport transfer & return

Summary

When comparing tour packages to Morocco we chose an option that was both economical and allowed us free time. Except for a few special ones, most tours go to the same places anyway. I think some of these places on the itinerary were very beautiful, while others were unnecessary. Our tour guide, despite his good intentions, was mediocre… His level of knowledge was insufficient for a group like ours and he sometimes made critical mistakes. Although he communicated respectfully and carefully, his narration, language, and expression skills were below average. But all of this didn’t really matter much; because we filled the gap with our own knowledge and research. In our free time, we discovered hidden treasures not included in the tour. Thus, our Morocco experience was a very enjoyable trip.

I told you in the beginning that I would go to Morocco again. And I would love to do more shopping this time… There’s a bargaining situation here also that drives you crazy. While not as bad as in Egypt, it still spoils your enthusiasm for shopping. Partly because of this, and partly due to lack of time and opportunity, I couldn’t do as many unique purchases as I wanted. I stocked up on argan oil, but I couldn’t get anything made of cactus silk fabric, for example. Or, because it’s not my style, I didn’t dare try those unique woven jackets; but I could have bought the fabric and had something made in my desired style here at home.

Now that we have plans for eastern Morocco, I think it would be even better if we added a crossing of Gibraltar. So I’ll do whats in my heart next time! 

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Konya & Şeb-i Arus or Where is Semra?

My fascination with Mevlevi elements is primarily spatial in origin. It stems from my discovery of the Galata Mevlevi Lodge during my high school years. This peaceful garden amidst the chaos of Beyoğlu was our resting place with my best friend before embarking on our adventures on Friday evenings. We had explored the interior of the building, but what truly captivated us was the garden itself. We literally recharged here, escaping the monotonous rhythm of classes before experiencing the fluctuating frequency of fun.

Although I later came to know Rumi and Shams, I was never a dedicated reader or a genuine follower. In fact, my relationship with spirituality remained quite distant until recently; I defined myself more as a woman of reason and science. But my interest in art and being an architect allowed me to take a look at this vast body of work.

Years later, my trip to the Galata Mevlevi Lodge brought back memories of my early youth. We enjoyed exploring the space, which had been transformed into a small museum. But it was primarily the hours I spent in the garden that brought back the feeling of that tranquility and peace. In the evening, we stayed for the Sema ceremony, crowning this journey through time with a feast that touched the heart not only visually but also through sound and breath.

Ever since that day, I’ve wanted to go to Konya, and especially to the Şeb-i Arus ceremony. In fact, I had to cancel my plane tickets the previous year because I couldn’t find tickets to the ceremony. This year, however, I didn’t miss the opportunity of the tatilbudur.com tour. I organized the girls and planned a trip to Konya with a group of five.

Program

We took the train to Konya very early in the morning, and had the opportunity to see many places during the rest of the day. After the Şeb-i Arus ceremony in the evening, we stayed at our comfortable hotel. The next day we traveled around again by bus until the train hour in the afternoon. It was a packed and a very satisfactory program. Only on the second day, around noon, as a group we separated from the group. Having had a full buffet breakfast, we skipped lunch and went to the market to shop instead. We also went to Mithat’s Tirit Restaurant by ourselves during the free time allocated to the group after the last stop. We tasted the authentic flavor of the famous Konya Tirit dish. It was so amazing! 🙂

First day:

  • Check-in & rest
  • Shab-i Arus Ceremony

Second day:

Apart from the Şeb-i Arus ceremony, what impressed me most in the program were the Karatay Madrasa as a venue, the Tomb and Mosque of Şemsi Tebrizi with its energy and the Mevlana Mausoleum, which was captivating on both aspects. The town of Sille, with its very well-designed museum, was a sweet touch and breathed life into the program. The Butterfly Garden was the surprising beauty of the tour; we loved it.

Shab-i Arus

The Şeb-i Arus ceremony held at the Cultural Center was a little different than I expected. The size and crowd of the venue initially made me worry that it might be a very touristy event, but that feeling completely disappeared afterwards. The ceremony started with a Sufi music concert by Ahmet Özhan, whose voice we remember from our childhood. The subsequent Sema ceremony was truly magnificent. Both the traditional Sema and the movements of the dervishes, as well as the successful lighting and arrangement of the modern venue, were enough to transport the audience to another world. The only annoying issue was the ill-mannered behavior of some inconsiderate audience members; we tried to ignore them. In the end, we all left the approximately two-hour ceremony with a feeling of “I’m so glad I attended.”

Tatilbudur Review

Actually, I don’t usually prefer traveling with tours. I prefer to do my own research and plan my own route and schedule. This way, I can travel according to my preferences and time, and it also gives space to spontaneity. The actual reason I chose this tour was because it was so difficult to find a ticket to the Şeb-i Arus ceremony.

But our tatilbudur.com experience was so satisfying and enjoyable that it made me reconsider… First of all, the pre-trip information and organization received A+ from all of us. But more than the program of the tour, our guide Mert Oymak’sHis elegant and respectful demeanor, as well as his professionalism, won the hearts of our team and the entire group. At every stop, he shared information in just the right amount—neither too much nor too little—with the confidence of someone who knew all the necessary details, satisfying every participant in this cosmopolitan tour. He answered questions and comments patiently and calmly, always with a smile on his face. We are grateful to him for reminding us the kind of person we long for with his noble stance that strikes a delicate balance between professionalism and sincerity.

Where are you, Semra?

While I was looking for a companion at first, we first became two, then four people. Semra, however, missed my messages; so she joined as the fifth later. But because she made her reservation after our group of four, she was separated from us both on the train and the bus. Moreover, since she was seated at the very back of our large tourbus, she was always the last to get off. To avoid being separated, at every new stop one of us would ask, “Where is Semra?” Of course, being a cheerful group, this turned into a joke after a few times. The random, inappropriate “Where is Semra?” exclamations made our journey more joyous.

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Arrogant Kibyra

Kibyra stands alone a little out of the way… The city sits proudly on a hilltop, a bit far from the coast and touristy sites. It’s two hours from Antalya, and about an hour each from Burdur and Denizli; nestled among the mountains in a town called Gölhisar.

But it deserves its arrogance to be honest… It should be proud of its magnificent mosaics that have been recently unearthed (especially the Medusa in the theatre), its magnificent settlement spread over the slopes of the hills and the hypnotic fountain that still runs today.

Because I was so impressed by the magnificent ruins of Kibyra at the Burdur Archaeology Museum earlier during my spring visit; I thought I absolutely had to visit it. So, after leaving Antalya and visiting Termessos, I arrived at the site in the latter half of the day. There are parking spaces on two levels; I parked at the higher one and followed the route down. It took me about two or three hours to explore the entire city. Finally, I hitchhiked up from the lower parking lot. At the end, I’d conquered two ancient cities on two mountains in one day; but they were the actual victors. Kibyra’s arrogant beauty was worth it!

Historical Information

The ancient city of Kibyra is located on three dominant hills separated from each other by deep cliffs in the Horzum neighborhood of the Gölhisar district of Burdur.

The city’s settlement area is quite extensive. The buildings are arranged symmetrically, with hilly terraces dominating the lake and plain views, ensuring that no structure obstructs the view of another. As you enter the city, on the left is a magnificent monumental gate and the most magnificent stadium in ancient Anatolia, with a capacity of 12,000-13,000 people.

As we proceed, we see the basilica, the upper and lower agora, the bathhouse, the gymnasium, the theater, the council building, a planned mausoleum, a bathhouse, a round-towered arch, and aqueducts. The council building/music house, with its capacity of 3,600 people, is one of the most magnificent works of ancient Anatolia. Located in the heart of the council building/orchestra, the Medusa Mosaic, made of red, green, and white marble, with its hair composed of snakes and its gaze that turns people to stone, is unique in Anatolia.

In 2011, a mosaic, covering 540 square meters and considered the largest and most intact mosaic site in Anatolia, was unearthed in front of the parliament building. Also in front of the parliament building was a Roman bathhouse and a ceramics workshop dating back to the Late Roman Period (6th-7th centuries AD). All the architectural remains visible in the city today date from the Roman Imperial Period.

Cibyra appears to have been under the rule of the Kingdom of Pergamum during the reign of Eumenes II (197-159 BC). Immediately thereafter, a four-party council (2nd-1st centuries BC) was formed, consisting of the ancient cities of Cibyra and its surroundings: Boubon, Balboura, and Oinoanda.

This league was dissolved and abolished by the Roman General Murena in 82 BC, and the province of Asia and other cities were incorporated into the Lycian League. The city, destroyed by a massive earthquake in 23 AD, was rebuilt by the Roman Emperor Tiberius. Cibyra experienced its most glorious period, particularly between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD.

Cibyra is renowned for its blacksmithing, leatherworking, pottery, and horse breeding. The city’s inhabitants were fiercely warlike. The parliament building, with its Medusa head and the largest and most intact mosaic area in Turkey in front of it, are noteworthy. Artifacts unearthed from Cibyra are on display at the Burdur Museum.

Source: Cultural Inventory, Ankara 2007

Kibyra Wiki Page HERE

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Peaky Termessos

I visited Termessoss in October… It was the perfect time; the sun was warm enough, the shade was refreshing enough. I decided not to overdo my research not to have great expectations. But as I climbed the peaks, I was captivated; the site embraced me first with the beautiful nature, then with the amazing topographical layout & the glory of the ruins. The city stands high leaning against one peak and overlooking the other. At the top, I felt like a ruler and especially, while perched on the crest of that theater, the wind carried me away in historic dreams.

To reach Termessos, which is about an hour from Antalya city center, you travel northwest. Since my next destination was the ancient city of Kibyra, I left early in the morning and spent half a day there. I entered the national park by car, followed the winding road up, enjoying the stunning views, and parked at the parking lot where the official site begins. There are some ruins here, but to explore the main city, you’ll need to climb a path. I advise you to be physically prepared for some hiking (like shoes) and to be mentally prepared for the slopes. I did the entire route; at the end, I’d have walked approximately 8-10 km. Shorter routes are possible, but it’s worth the effort!

Termessos Historical Information

Termessos is an important ancient city, founded by the Solyms, descendants of the Luwians, one of the oldest peoples in Anatolia, in the valley between the peaks of Mount Solymos, today known as Güllük. It is one of the most striking archaeological sites protected within the forest and located within the National Park of the same name. Güllük Mountain (Termessos) National Park is a special region, home to both rich flora and endangered animals.

The city entered the historical scene when Alexander the Great laid siege to the city in 333 BC, and the Termessians put up a strong defense, refusing to surrender. After Alexander’s death, the city was taken by the Ptolemies. In 189 BC, the Termessians, who captured the neighboring city of Isinda, were punished by Manlius Vulso, Commander of the Roman Forces in Anatolia, following a complaint from the people of Isinda. It is likely that a war was also taking place between Termessos and the Lycian League around the same time. In 71 BC, the Roman Senate recognized and confirmed the independence of Termessos, which had established a “friendship and alliance” with Rome, and the right to make its own laws.

It is known that Amyntas of Galatia ruled Termessos, along with other cities in Pisidia, from 36 to 25 BC. The city maintained its independence during the Roman Imperial period, as evidenced by the coins it minted. No information is available about the city’s status during the Byzantine and subsequent periods. Termessos witnessed no new settlement after its abandonment, and, apart from earthquakes and natural damage, it remains a remarkably intact and well-preserved site.

Termessos boasts numerous temples and extensive cemeteries. The variety and richness of its tombs are remarkable. Among these, the tomb of Alketas (319 BC), a prominent commander during the reign of Alexander the Great, and others are also important for shedding light on the city’s history. In addition to the monumental tombs, numerous sarcophagi with shield motifs depicting warriors occupy a significant area of ​​the cemetery. The most interesting artifact from Termessos in the Antalya Museum is the Dog Sarcophagus, displayed in the Hall of Sarcophagi. The poetic inscription, written by the owner of a dog named Stephanos, is particularly significant for its uniqueness.

Termessos, with its settlement and defensive systems, has been one of the cities that best utilized the resources offered by nature. Güllük Mountain-Termessos National Park, designated a World Heritage Site for its natural and cultural values, has been on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List since 2000.

Source: “Termessos” Antalya from Past to Present [Volume II], Antalya Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism (2012)

Termessos Wiki Page is also HERE.

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SKOPJE 2+1

I went to Skopje for three days but I finished going around the city in two… So I spent a day in the surrounding area. I visited a magnificent canyon, had the opportunity to look down on the city from the mountain and gained a deeper understanding of North Macedonia’s topography. In short, you can visit Skopje for two days, but three is also worth it. If you spend five days, you’ll also get to visit Ohrid.

Chapter #1 – Museums

I arrived in Skopje on a rainy day, so I decided to visit the museums first. My main goal was Archaeological Museum of North Macedonia It’s not the greatest museum; besides most of the Macedonian treasures are in Greece. But it does have some unique goddess idols. I’ve witnessed the bulding-based female goddess only here. 

Another museum nearby was Museum of Independence of North Macedonia I went here partly to shelter from the rain and to understand the modern history of the country. Most of it consists of giant oil paintings and recreations, but there are some beautiful pieces. 

I wasn’t too keen on the other museums. I tried another one, but it was closed anyway because the leaking roof.

Chapter #2 – Old Skopje

Skopje Bazaar is the most visited place… The inns, bathhouses, and old buildings, many of which have been renovated and some remain in their original state. Some of these inns and bathhouses have become galleries, art workshops, shops. The most beautiful ones are:

Flea Market & Green BazaarI are at the northern end of the market, but frankly, there’s nothing particularly noteworthy. It’s like a smaller version of Tahtakale, with fewer and more eclectic options. I think it’s better to eat, drink, and enjoy a coffee in the market instead.

In the Skopje Fortress there’s not much to see other than the beautiful city view. However, day tours generally depart from the castle parking lot. If you’ve booked an extra day tour like me, you can arrive an hour or 45 minutes early to visit the castle too. That would be enough.

The other side of the river is a bit more modern. On the main street the house of Mother Teresa stands. I haven’t been inside, but it’s beautiful from the outside. The modern church next to it is perfect for a walk in. Besides, this street is perfect for walking & shopping. You can take the Stone Bridge (Route south of the Archaeological Museum) to the Alexander Monument and from here you can visit the street.

Part #2 – Matka Canyon and Vodno Mountain

Ohrid is actually one of the most popular destinations in North Macedonia. However, because I wanted to visit Ohrid separately and explore Skopje in detail, I didn’t include it in my three-day plan. However, since I finished the city in two days, I chose a plan from GetYourGuide, a comparative travel app I’ve used in other cities before.

One of the most popular natural wonders of the region is the Matka Canyon This tour, which included a cable car ride to the summit of Mount Vodno overlooking Skopje, took about 5-5.5 hours. The canyon is truly worth seeing. Even the dam, dating back to the turn of the century, has a unique retro aesthetic. Once inside, you can take a boat tour, which I highly recommend. The hiking route isn’t a roundtrip one; it’s a bit of a walk. It’s a 20-minute boat ride to the cave at the end of the route with a breathtaking view of the water, a visit to the cave, and a return by boat. Be warned: in the summer, locals come here for a cool-down swim, and we are told it gets very crowded.

Our way to the Vodno climb we saw St. Panteleimon -a small old Byzantine church and the Macedonian Village This is a newly built settlement called “City of Macedonian Architecture,” where they attempted to exemplify traditional Macedonian buildings. Clearly built for tourism, it is not very impressive. However, the antique, handicraft, and design shops inside are beautiful and have unique collections.

In the middle of the way to Mount Vodno, from the Cable Car Station we went up. At the top of the mountain stands the Millennium Cross It was amazing to see the geography of North Macedonia from the summit, where I learned that 80% of the country is mountainous, 

Chapter #2 – Food and Drink

Pelister is a famous restaurant right in front of the Alexander Monument. Both the place and the food are delicious; it’s not overly expensive. I had a breakfast plate called “Palenta” made with corn flakes. Even though I was very hungry, I couldn’t finish the whole plate, mind you, but it was delicious.

Kuka is a delightful little restaurant where you can sample local specialties, and it’s also affordable. Tucked away in the middle of construction, the place itself is nothing special, just the flavor and price are optimal.

I couldn’t pronounce the name of the restaurant but it is here This has a much better space with local flavors.

I’ve only eaten at the three places above. But there were two other recommended places:

These are both bars and live music venues, I couldn’t go 🥴

I went in for coffee:

MyWay caffe

I also had breakfast at a small restaurant:

Brotherhood

There are famous meatball restaurants in the market, but I did not try them.

Chapter #2 – Shopping

There are a few nice shops on the street which runs south from the Alexander Monument. I bought shoes/slippers from one of them—ergonomic slippers, somewhere between Birkenstock and Sabo slippers. It was a Serbian brand: :https://maps.app.goo.gl/2NTn34qxv9uzeZYL8 

On the daily tour, in Ecovillage, which masquerades as a Macedonian village, there was a shop called Esnaf… They had wonderful handmade and designer items, the most unique items. I bought a pair of earrings.

There are antique shops in the market, but I didn’t go to these. There are plenty of silver and gold shops too. The city is famous for the silverwork, like filigree, and silver plated stones.

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Northern Greece Route by Land

9-day Northern Greece route by car from Ipsala, Turkey. 

Chapter #1 – Thrace

Setting out in August was a mistake. It was a busy holiday, so it was crowded everywhere and the borders were especially busy. We arrived at İpsala from Keşan at 5 a.m., but it still took us three hours to cross. We heard those arriving behind us at 6 a.m. had to wait seven hours! In any case, we made the best of it by setting off on Friday evening, staying overnight in Erikli so we split the distance and rested and we still managed to cross the border in the best possible period.

Food recommendations in Keşan:ÖZ-EN ET RESTAURANT

Episode #2 – Kavala & Philippi

After breakfast and some fresh air in Kavala, we continued to Philippi, one of the most important ancient cities of the region.

The scene of a very important battle, Philippi Archaeological Site spreads over a wide area and there is a small but valuable museum; Archaeological Museum Of Philippi definitely worth the visit.

Chapter #3 – Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki Ataturk House was closed for renovations when we were there, but it will be reopened on November 10th this year.

The ruins within the city are worth a wander around the streets; the most beautiful ones are:Arch of Galerius and the Alexander pilgrimage statue overlooking the sea:Alexander Monument.Sunset on the dock is a must…

Food recommendations:Balconaki or Kazaviti Thessaloniki

Part #4 – Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki

A must-see with its excellent collection: Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki We devoted long hours to this; especially to the treasures of the Macedonian tombs!

Chapter #5 – My Grandfather’s Hometown, Serres

We started with the Old Bedesten / Archaeological Museum:Archaeological Museum of Serres (Bezesteni)

Serres, the happy city… Although we arrived at noon on Monday, everywhere was bustling with life and people. Everyone looked cheerful and elegant. When I asked the lady at the exhibition if today was a special day, she said it was always like that here! At that moment, we all decided it was a city worth living in.

Even though I could not find any trace from my ancestors, I wrote a letter to my grandfather in the visitor’s book at Zincirli Mosque:Cultural Exhibition Space “Zintzirli Mosque”

Before returning, we bought Serres ouzo from a local producer, and the shop was as beautiful as the ouzo.

Chapter #6 – Thassos Island

There’s a ferry that departs regularly, not from Kavala city but from the town beyond; we decided to cross here with our car. But it was complete chaos! A team unprepared for the August crowds, long lines, and improper ticketing meant a long wait. But on the way back, we managed to cross early in the morning and avoid the crowds.

There are ruins everywhere on the island; for example Gate of Zeus & Hera or Ancient Agora of Thasos or Sanctuary of Heracles But I don’t recommend going up to the Acropolis because there is no road to follow.

Thassos is ideal for a day of sea, sun, and cocktails. But beware of the August crowds; there are also many Turkish visitors!

For dinner, this place has a beach in front of it and the food is delicious:Ftapodi Thassos

Here is a recommendation for a perfect bar for a break on the rocks at the very tip of the island: Karnagio Beach Bar

Episode #6 – Archaeological Museum of Thassos

One of the best Greek Island Museums, I definitely recommend visiting:Archaeological Museum of Thassos

A restaurant with a delicious atmosphere and food, located in a unique village square on the west side of the island, high up in the hills:Kazaviti

Episode #7 – Thasos Panagia Village

I think you should not leave without seeing the Fountain of Love and the village with canals: Panagia

Chapter #8 – Alexandroupoli 

Zona Archaeological Site An ancient city near the town of Makri, west of Alexandroupoli. It’s relatively unknown because it’s newly excavated, but its seaside location and compact route make it worth a visit.

Alexandroupoli Archaeological Museum has a small but very impressive collection, I recommend you not to miss it.

Chapter #9 – Samothrace Island

Because the ferry was so small, we couldn’t find tickets for the car, so we rented one there.

Street strolling in Chora:Old Samothraki It is a must to wander the streets and buy souvenirs from small designer boutiques or donkeys.

Delicious restaurant recommendations with traditional flavors:Tavern 1900 or Aretsa

Chapter #10 – Samothrace Waterfalls & the Sea

Waterfall walk & diving into the cool waters:First Fonia’s Waterfall It’s an easy route, about 1-1.5 hours’ walk away; and it flows beautifully even in August.

Don’t leave without buying some Samothraki cheese:TYPOCOMEO

Chapter #11 – Samothrace Sanctuary & Museum

The Ancient Samothraki Settlement & Sanctuary is an ancient initiation center. Its museum is small but exquisite:

Archaeological Museum of Samothrace ve Sanctuary of the Great Gods

Result: I Will Come Again

We combined weekends to complete a nine-day Northern Greece route, trying to balance the benefits of relaxation with maximum efficiency. For our culture-enthusiast team, we balanced our visits to archaeological sites and museums with stops at the seaside and waterfalls. We weren’t able to visit the Macedonian tombs we planned because they were undergoing restoration. Therefore, we intend to go on another Greek Macedonia route, where we can both visit them and explore the blue waters on other shores. 

But Thessaloniki is a beautiful city; it’s always worth visiting. Serres was a big surprise, and I’d love to go back and explore the other smaller towns nearby. Alexandroupoli is just around the corner, a stopover on any itinerary. I’d prefer to visit Thassos again in spring, rather than during peak season. Samothrace, on the other hand, is a very different island; it’s not for everyone, but it always draws me in.

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Mini Lycia

Myra mezarlar

While traveling from Dalaman to Antalya, I was smitten by the frustration of not being able to walk the Lycian Way, a long-held dream of mine. So I tried to visit as much as I could with the time I had. Various sources mention between 19 and 48 ancient Lycian cities. I only managed to see five of them. Here, I’m sharing videos summarizing the few hours I spent in each city. The videos offer no narration, information, or descriptions. They’re just snapshots and contain sounds of only the exciting moments I couldn’t contain myself, exclamations, or the voices of other tourists I encountered. It’s easy to find historical, geographical, or other information about any place you want. I thought this style better conveyed the feeling of one wandering among the ruins. Of course, the real joy is touching those stones, smelling the air and imagining what life once was like in these places.

Listing the cities of Lycia The wiki page is here.

Or this pageI think it provides more enlightening and compact information.

I am listing the cities in the chronology I visited and therefore logistically from west to east:

Xanthos Ancient City

Location Here…It’s a large, scattered, and somewhat wild ancient city, easily accessible but not yet extensively excavated. Still, its necropolis, with its geometric tomb structures, impressed me.

Letoon Ancient City / Sacred Site

In fact, it is very close to Xanthos, a point that functions as the sacred site of the region rather than a settlement. In Letoon the ruins of the temples of the mother goddess Leto, Apollo, and Artemis are impressive. Like every Apollo temple I’ve visited, this one was fed by fresh water, a sacred area where tortoises now bask on the ruins. It’s a compact and easily accessible site.

Myra Antique City

An ancient city hidden among the white-covered greenhouses of Demre is the ancient site of Myra.The rock tombs on the hillsides where it sits seem to overlook a theater, many of which still stand. The site is in a small area that suggests many unexcavated treasures lie beneath the surrounding greenhouses; it offers a quick tour.

Ancient City of Limyra

Ancient City of Limyra  was a complete surprise to me… What fascinated me was not the wild feeling of the incomplete excavation and restoration, not the vast land the city spreads across, nor the impressive buildings still standing. I left my heart in the waters gushing through the city and enveloping it on all sides. The ancient road is now under water, where the stream winding around the monumental structure gently covers its huge stones. But the windings of the stream, sometimes flowing with excitement, sometimes calmly, and the ancient trees that grow around them, are equally beautiful.

Phaselis Ancient CityI’ve wanted to go to Phaselis since the first time I saw it in a documentary; I finally had the opportunity. It’s truly a unique settlement, with incredible beauty in its location, layout, and natural beauty. Its natural geography allows for three harbors overlooking three different directions, while the harsh winds blowing from one side are barely noticeable on the other. In addition to the many surviving buildings, the findings of the accelerated excavations in recent years have also been added. The adjacent public beach adds another dimension and visitors to the site during holidays; I’m not sure if it’s a good thing or a bad thing. But any kind of preservation is better than the constructing another five-star hotel in this magnificent spot. I swam in its waters and emerged in its essence; I was completely enchanted. If I had more time, I would have spent a full day there; I will go again.

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I Could Swim Here: Meis Island for a Day Trip

By swimming or by boat?…

If you have been to Kaş, you know that Meis Island is one of the closest Greek islands to our coast. For those who enjoy open-water swimming, the Kaş-Meis route may also be familiar. Therefore, swimming from Kaş to Meis is technically possible. But I don’t recommend it as a transportation method… 🙂

Instead, I recommend choosing one of the ferry companies in Kaş center, buying your ticket, paying the port taxes (both ports charge separately – currently Kaş 130 TL, Meis 5 Euros) and your international departure fee (for Turkish citizens only). The ticket price (25-30 Euros) and the travel time (25-30 minutes) are directly proportional to the island’s proximity.

I’ve heard that some people prefer to take a boat tour instead of the ferry. While it might be tempting to skip the hassle of transfers, I opted for individual travel. The small town where the ferry docks in Meis, the two other destinations are accessible only by sea: the Blue Cave and St. George Beach. I’ll go into more detail later, but small boat taxis can easily and frequently take you to and from both. Furthermore, you can determine the timing and how long you’ll stay on the island where the beach is located.

Things to see…

Meis Island is quite small, so don’t expect a long list. However, the town center where you disembark is so charming that how much time you spend wandering the streets is entirely up to you. Here are a few attractions:

  • Meis town… Be sure to take a tour among the buildings painted in candy like colors. I recommend diving inland into the narrow streets.
  • There is a Lycian Tomb… It’s not exactly spectacular, but since we’re wandering around the island, why not? The road is beautiful, and there’s a stunning view behind the island. It’s not a very long climb, either.
  • A must-see place in Meis is the Blue Cave a sea cave at the back of the island. It’s accessible only by boat from the harbor and can be entered before high tide and during calm seas. But the interior is vast and magnificent; I think it’s a must-see.
blue cave
  • At a point closer to the port, on two interconnected islets stands Saint George Beach. Access is again only from the water. However, small boats depart from the harbor and take you to the Blue Cave, take a short tour and then drop you off there. They’ll pick you up whenever you want. So you can sunbathe on cushioned wooden loungers and enjoy the aquarium-like water on this lovely beach by the sea. Even in October, the water was magnificent. I paid 10 euros for a lounge chair and 5 euros for a Fredo Cappuccino; I don’t think it’s too much for a place like this.
saint george beach

Daily or overnight stay?…

Of course, it depends on the person and the circumstances… But I stayed in Kaş and went back and forth for the day. I took the 9:30 a.m. ferry; there’s also an 11:00 a.m. For my evening return, I chose the earlier option of 4:00 p.m. or 11:00 p.m. Because:

  • It was off-season, so accommodation in Kaş was more affordable. Accommodation options in Meis were relatively limited, so it was a bit more expensive.
  • My schedule only allowed for one day and I actually saw the entire island. But if I had the time, I’d have loved spending a full day at that stunning beach and wandering the island’s streets for longer. It would have been perfect for a relaxing weekend, and perhaps a chance to get a little accustomed to the island’s rhythm.
  • I had a delicious meal on the dock at noon. Without any research, I just sat where I felt like. The seafood, like on every island, was fresh and well-prepared. But if I’d stayed overnight, I’d have had a long, ouzo night out.
meis lunch
meis flower

After all… If you have limited time, a Daily Meis tour is very satisfying. But if you live nearby or if you are rich in time; a long week end would be perfect.

meis cat
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Intellectual Calories: Eskişehir & Afyon 

Target Phrygia…

I had stopped in Afyon for a thermal hotel break years ago; but I hadn’t seen much of anything other than the water. Of course, I had heard of the sausage and the cream, but I was not aware that the city was a gastronomic paradise. I didn’t know about its historical and natural treasures at all. 

That is until I visited Afyon last autumn. When we decided to stay there on route from south to north with my companion, my view of the city completely changed. First, the rich texture and delicious flavors of Afyon center seduced me. Then, as I headed north, I was blown away by its nature, rock formations and the ruins of Phrygia, one of the ancient civilizations of Anatolia. 

We continued our journey without exploring it in sufficient detail because we didn’t have time then. But I had already decided to go back with my girls. We looked forward to visiting the valleys in winter and immersing ourselves in the warm thermal waters. We were finally able to schedule a weekend in February. We made a 3-day plan, exploring the route to and from Afyon as well. But it is also possible to squeeze the trip into two days by traveling at night or skipping a stop.

History & Art in Eskişehir…

I had been to Eskişehir several times. In fact, once I was a guest of Yılmaz Büyükerşen, who was the last Mayor at the time. We were hosted in a wonderful tour of the city with his guidance. Later, I had the opportunity to visit for different purposes too. But there were a few pieces missing… The focus of my recent interest, history, the Archaeological Museum; newly built OM, Odunpazarı Museum of Modern Art and the Exhibition of “Calm Lands” 

So Eskişehir was the first stop of our route with an intense cultural and artistic agenda. We had a great time as we were all harmonious and focused on the börek, ravioli and halva!. We decided to start with the Archeology Museum before our stomachs started growling. Then, we left the car at the multi-storey car park in Odunpazarı and completed the remaining route on foot. 

  • Eskişehir Archeology Museum: This is an small museum with important pieces in the center of the city. The entrance is free with a Museum Card. Or you can pick it up at the door or from the app. The modern building design is very beautiful; especially the sunny big hall where the sarcophagi are located. But the displays are a bit dated; lighting and signage could be much better. However, you can get a pretty good idea of ​​the heritage of the region with a short tour. 
  • Meal Break: We chose any of the Tatar Böreği shops with high scores near the square and sat down. We ordered pastry and ravioli. Although the pastries were not as crispy as we hoped they were delicious. The manti was good, but the one bite size spices had no taste. We left the halva shops with delicious fig and walnut summer halva in our bags. The real surprise came when we pursued the smells coming from the bakery next door… Yüce Işıklar Bakery Products The fresh hot bagels we bought were so delicious that we ate them all even after all that pastry!
  • Eldem Art Area – Calm Lands Exhibition: One of my friends from high school is a versatile artists Evrim Kavcar and one is a plant painter Deniz Bozok. I had also met Kıymet Daştan thanks to Evrim. I ahd wanted to visit this gallery featuring works in the theme Calm Lands. So I dragged the team with me; and I’m glad I did… Located in a historical mansion complex, in Eldem Art Space we were moved by the wonderful artwork. Moreover, the place itself is beautifully restored & designed. It was an enjoyable visit that appealed to all the senses. 
  • Kurşunlu Social Complex: We entered the courtyard of the social complex, thinking that a short break would be enough since we had seen many similar places. But with its serene and lively atmosphere, the meerschaum exhibition and shops behind the mosque kept us there. While we admired the magnificent artisanship of the old, we were sad to see the souvenirs in the shops didn’t even come close. 
  • OM, Odunpazarı Museum of Modern Art: This special museum, which I was curious about both in terms of its architecture and its collection, was our last stop in Eskişehir. The entrance fee of 120 TL seemed reasonable; We bought our tickets and started touring from the lowest level. Particularly the wood-clad tower is the signature of the stylistic building. We took a group picture, went up to and viewed the complete collection. Some of the works were very impressive. I think it’s a must-see place. 

Phrygia from Eskişehir to Afyon…

We were very excited to visit the Phrygian monuments, which were the focus of our trip, guided by my archaeology student friend. We set off from Eskişehir early and targeted the monuments area located in the middle of the distance to Afyon. We set the route to Yazılıkaya & Midas monuments, which are technically within the borders of Eskişehir but 1 hour away from Afyon. While passing through the magnificent snowy slopes, we scouted for other monuments in the region.

We managed to visit most of the ruins we targeted around Yazılıkaya, tracing a slight arc as we traveled from north to south. Our journey was brightened with little surprises such as frozen tiny streams and storks’ nests. The sun was setting when we completed our route and set off towards Afyonkarahisar centre. 

  • Gerdekkaya Monument: Our Phrygian tour started with this special rock tomb located at the northeastern end of the Monuments area. There was a bride and groom photo shoot when we arrived; it’s a truly photogenic area. 
  • Küçük Yazılıkaya Monument: This tiny monument, also known as the Areyastis Monument, is one of the rare written monuments left from the Phrygians. We think that Cybele, the most important goddess of this fertile land, was worshiped here. We parked the car by the road, next to an information sign, and walked a bit slightly uphill. The energy of the tomb was so intense, and the rock surface was so impressive that it made us improvise a prayer. 
  • Yazılıkaya / Midas Monument: This is one of the most important ruins in the region. The giant mausoleum, one of the rare Phrygian inscribed ruins, and the rock settlements are side by side. Moreover, you reach it by passing through a picturesque village. We also saw some cultural tourism signs in this village with stone buildings; the settlement texture was so intact that it showed the place was evidently been inhabited for thousands of years. We parked at the top of the village and climbed to the monument on a slightly sloped dirt road. And it drew us in with its magnificent view and majestic stance. We sat facing the valley for a while and enjoyed the idyllic view. We played with snowballs and we talked a little about Phrygia and its myths. 
  • Yapildak Asarkale: Unfortunately, we could not approach our next target, Asarkale, by vehicle. The ground was already muddy in places; We parked where the stream froze over and tried the dirt road. But we couldn’t find a proper path, so we walked around and took pictures from a distance.
  • Lion Temple & Seljuk Tomb: When we reached the Lion Temple, we were extremely happy to have extended our way there. First of all, the rock tomb turned out to be much more impressive and important than we expected. The temple area, where Cybele was previously worshiped and overlooking the sunrise, was probably used as a tomb during the Roman period. Based on the inscription, it is thought to be the tomb of the heroic General Solon, who captured the Anatolian cities in the Roman period. It was also wonderful to wander around the remains called Yarım Konak, which was probably used since ancient times. It was also gorgeous to view at the valley and Kümbet Village from the top. 

Gastro-Afyon

We arrived in Afyon center at dusk. Our goal was to fill eat before relaxing in our rental house with a thermal pool. Master Salim was our target. The meat dish with prunes and the eggplant pastry were amazing; but you can taste a variation of the food by ordering the chef’s plate. Of course, their creamy desserts are legendary… After we got over the shock that there was no tea service, we had our desserts to goso we could eat them at home. 

We did the food & beverage shopping in these places:

IN AFYON:

  • Master Salim: The right address for Ottoman cuisine and delicious desserts. It can be a little crowded on the weekend.
  • Altınay Turkish Delight: The shop right at the beginning of Uzun Çarşı; it’s impossible to miss. The magnificent creamy delight was out of stock so we bought the one with walnuts; it was also incredibly delicious. 
  • Butcher Celal Sausages: We bought our sausages from here. I also bought bacon and roasted meat; but those were not as perfect as what I got from Kastamonu. 
  • Historical TaşHan: Taşhan is ideal if you want to take a tea or coffee break and shop from local artisans in a historical building. 

IN GAZLIGÖL 

  • Aksu Oven: The most delicious poppy seed bun I’ve ever eaten in my life. Moreover, we learned here that simit comes in many varieties; the ones with cream, cheese, butter and tahini are legendary. 
  • Ünallar Butcher: This is also a recommended sausage spot. 
  • Manufacturer Şekerci Nuri: Real buffalo yoghurt and cream is here. But you need to order in advance. Mr. Nuri and his family make shipments to Istanbul twice a week. 

Afyon & Phrygian Valley

With the pride of having made a quick introduction to Phrygia, we decided to enjoy the next day by exploring the other targets leisurely. And afterwards, we took a tea break at Emre Lake at the spot where the movie “AROG” was shot. Then we visited the old Afyon city center. Our only regret wasforgetting that the Afyonkarahisar Archeology Museum was closed on Monday.We wanted to see it so much we would have made the schedule different to include the museum earlier.

  • Ayazini Rock Church: Located right at the entrance of the Phrygian Valley, centered on Ayazini, this rock-carved church was a good start to the Sunday route and the trip. The light was gorgeous early in the morning. You can also walk to the lion tomb and rock settlements from here. 
  • Ayazini Metropolis Multi-storey Settlement: Introduced as the world’s first apartment building, this multi-storey settlement carved into rocks is quite interesting. It is already located at the beginning of the valley. 
  • Ayazini Necropolis: Ayazini is a settlement that was home to people for thousands of years and still is. The necropolis located at the entrance of this village, intertwined with rock settlements, continues to be used as a cemetery today. The landscape we pass by, with rock tombs in the background and tombstones in the front, tells us about the continuity of civilization and that death is a part of life. 
  • Ayazini Village: It was lovely with its preserved texture, modest but cute buildings, streets decorated with evil eye beads or lavender, living spaces combined with settlements carved into rocks, and most of all, its surprising squares and courtyards. After wandering around quite a lot, we sat down for breakfast at a small family owned cafe. Everything with clotted cream, tahini molasses, eggs and sausage was great at Ayazma Cave Cafe Restaurant. They also surprised us with their delicious poppy paste. After the meal, we visited the shops and sat at another cafe that impressed us with its courtyard full of antiques in the shade of mulberries: Dutlu Bahçe is in Frighan Ayazini We drank sahlep with poppy seeds.  
  • Avdalaz Castle: These settlements carved into the rocks here were easy to defend and therefore frequently used for military purposes. Avdalaz Castle is one of these castles, which is very different from the standard castles we know and looks like cliffs with gullies from the outside. If you are not afraid of heights, you can climb up into it.
  • Aslantaş Yılantaş Ruins: It was a very short but enjoyable visit. You can imagine the grandeur of the monument that once stood there from the size of the large stone ruins with lion carvings. Now there are very few pieces left; still, it’s is ideal for the lion’s mouth pose! 
  • Maltaş Ruins: In front of this rock tomb monument, newly landscaped, there is a sacred area where Cybele was worshiped. Thanks to the new arrangement, it was very impressive to sit on the steps and stare at the traces left from thousands of years ago. As we approached the ruins, we saw a magnificent bird with giant wings. We guessed that this domestic bird was a red hawk. 
  • Cold Vadisi Tabiat Parki and King’s Road: As we moved north from the Göynüş valley and approached this natural park, Cappadocia-like rock formations began to appear. When we climbed the winding road to the entrance of the park, there was a huge valley view in front of us. We proceeded a little further to see our target, the King’s Road. We parked our car at an intersection and followed the brown signs until we reached the ruins of the ancient road. It is a small part of an important route that actually covers most of Western Anatolia and bears the traces of thousands of years of caravans, military and civilian traffic. It’s a great spot to imagine the busiest time of this ancient highway, carved here layer by layer by the wheels of horse carriages. 
  • Emre Lake and Kırkmerdiven Rocks: The beauty of this tiny lake welcomes the view of natural formations around it. Some parts of the movie “AROG” was also shot here. Therefore, it has become a tourist attraction; but it is a modest place consisting of mules you can ride, set pieces and a man selling tea. Still, it is a nice stop… Moreover, the layer of ice on the surface of the water provided for more entertainment; especially when the wind blew and the ice started to pile up towards the shore.
  • Afyonkarahisar Castle: We were wrong to assume we could easily climb up to this hawk’s nest castle perched on top of giant rocks in the heart of the city. More precisely, we miscalculated… We thought we would approach by car and leave at sunset. It turns out that it is a castle that can be climbed on foot with almost 700 steps. Moreover, these steps could freeze in winter. We did not risk it and we wandered around the streets instead.
  • Afyon Streets and Houses: We had read that old Afyon houses were being restored on route to the Afyon Grand Mosque. But personally, I was a little disturbed by the lack of care I saw like in many mass restoration projects in our country. On one hand, I understand the economic and logistical difficulty of transforming the fabric of such a large area. On the other hand, I feel these buildings, which lack original details and experiences, are insincere, depthless and unreal. Moreover, I think this method is not sustainable; because they lose their originality and cease to be an attraction. Still, it’s much better than letting a city be completely destroyed and occupied by concrete blocks. Maybe it’s my extreme architectural sensitivity; it’s a subjective issue. 
  • Afyonkarahisar Grand Mosque: I always try to see the grand mosques of the cities I visit; especially if it is a Seljuk work like this. Afyon Grand Mosque did not disappoint; it actually fascinated me. I think it is one of the most beautiful buildings of the period, both technically and aesthetically, with its magnificent roof supported by giant wooden poles, muqarnas decorations on the tops of the columns, and its modest but impressive proportions. A must see!

Return Route Kütahya

Since we couldn’t visit the Afyon Museum, we set back home early… We had already targeted Kütahya to see somewhere new. Since we had plenty of time, we decided to visit a few places in here. Unfortunately, there are not so many options! There are only a handful of places to visit in the center you can cover an hour or two:

Ultimately, Afyon is a great destination for a 3 or 2-day trip… It appeals to every sense. History, nature and food stimulates every sense. Especially if you have access to thermal healing waters where you stay. But be careful, there are so many intellectual calories here!!!