Tag: vacation

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Intellectual Calories: Eskişehir & Afyon 

Target Phrygia…

I had stopped in Afyon for a thermal hotel break years ago; but I hadn’t seen much of anything other than the water. Of course, I had heard of the sausage and the cream, but I was not aware that the city was a gastronomic paradise. I didn’t know about its historical and natural treasures at all. 

That is until I visited Afyon last autumn. When we decided to stay there on route from south to north with my companion, my view of the city completely changed. First, the rich texture and delicious flavors of Afyon center seduced me. Then, as I headed north, I was blown away by its nature, rock formations and the ruins of Phrygia, one of the ancient civilizations of Anatolia. 

We continued our journey without exploring it in sufficient detail because we didn’t have time then. But I had already decided to go back with my girls. We looked forward to visiting the valleys in winter and immersing ourselves in the warm thermal waters. We were finally able to schedule a weekend in February. We made a 3-day plan, exploring the route to and from Afyon as well. But it is also possible to squeeze the trip into two days by traveling at night or skipping a stop.

History & Art in Eskişehir…

I had been to Eskişehir several times. In fact, once I was a guest of Yılmaz Büyükerşen, who was the last Mayor at the time. We were hosted in a wonderful tour of the city with his guidance. Later, I had the opportunity to visit for different purposes too. But there were a few pieces missing… The focus of my recent interest, history, the Archaeological Museum; newly built OM, Odunpazarı Museum of Modern Art and the Exhibition of “Calm Lands” 

So Eskişehir was the first stop of our route with an intense cultural and artistic agenda. We had a great time as we were all harmonious and focused on the börek, ravioli and halva!. We decided to start with the Archeology Museum before our stomachs started growling. Then, we left the car at the multi-storey car park in Odunpazarı and completed the remaining route on foot. 

  • Eskişehir Archeology Museum: This is an small museum with important pieces in the center of the city. The entrance is free with a Museum Card. Or you can pick it up at the door or from the app. The modern building design is very beautiful; especially the sunny big hall where the sarcophagi are located. But the displays are a bit dated; lighting and signage could be much better. However, you can get a pretty good idea of ​​the heritage of the region with a short tour. 
  • Meal Break: We chose any of the Tatar Böreği shops with high scores near the square and sat down. We ordered pastry and ravioli. Although the pastries were not as crispy as we hoped they were delicious. The manti was good, but the one bite size spices had no taste. We left the halva shops with delicious fig and walnut summer halva in our bags. The real surprise came when we pursued the smells coming from the bakery next door… Yüce Işıklar Bakery Products The fresh hot bagels we bought were so delicious that we ate them all even after all that pastry!
  • Eldem Art Area – Calm Lands Exhibition: One of my friends from high school is a versatile artists Evrim Kavcar and one is a plant painter Deniz Bozok. I had also met Kıymet Daştan thanks to Evrim. I ahd wanted to visit this gallery featuring works in the theme Calm Lands. So I dragged the team with me; and I’m glad I did… Located in a historical mansion complex, in Eldem Art Space we were moved by the wonderful artwork. Moreover, the place itself is beautifully restored & designed. It was an enjoyable visit that appealed to all the senses. 
  • Kurşunlu Social Complex: We entered the courtyard of the social complex, thinking that a short break would be enough since we had seen many similar places. But with its serene and lively atmosphere, the meerschaum exhibition and shops behind the mosque kept us there. While we admired the magnificent artisanship of the old, we were sad to see the souvenirs in the shops didn’t even come close. 
  • OM, Odunpazarı Museum of Modern Art: This special museum, which I was curious about both in terms of its architecture and its collection, was our last stop in Eskişehir. The entrance fee of 120 TL seemed reasonable; We bought our tickets and started touring from the lowest level. Particularly the wood-clad tower is the signature of the stylistic building. We took a group picture, went up to and viewed the complete collection. Some of the works were very impressive. I think it’s a must-see place. 

Phrygia from Eskişehir to Afyon…

We were very excited to visit the Phrygian monuments, which were the focus of our trip, guided by my archaeology student friend. We set off from Eskişehir early and targeted the monuments area located in the middle of the distance to Afyon. We set the route to Yazılıkaya & Midas monuments, which are technically within the borders of Eskişehir but 1 hour away from Afyon. While passing through the magnificent snowy slopes, we scouted for other monuments in the region.

We managed to visit most of the ruins we targeted around Yazılıkaya, tracing a slight arc as we traveled from north to south. Our journey was brightened with little surprises such as frozen tiny streams and storks’ nests. The sun was setting when we completed our route and set off towards Afyonkarahisar centre. 

  • Gerdekkaya Monument: Our Phrygian tour started with this special rock tomb located at the northeastern end of the Monuments area. There was a bride and groom photo shoot when we arrived; it’s a truly photogenic area. 
  • Küçük Yazılıkaya Monument: This tiny monument, also known as the Areyastis Monument, is one of the rare written monuments left from the Phrygians. We think that Cybele, the most important goddess of this fertile land, was worshiped here. We parked the car by the road, next to an information sign, and walked a bit slightly uphill. The energy of the tomb was so intense, and the rock surface was so impressive that it made us improvise a prayer. 
  • Yazılıkaya / Midas Monument: This is one of the most important ruins in the region. The giant mausoleum, one of the rare Phrygian inscribed ruins, and the rock settlements are side by side. Moreover, you reach it by passing through a picturesque village. We also saw some cultural tourism signs in this village with stone buildings; the settlement texture was so intact that it showed the place was evidently been inhabited for thousands of years. We parked at the top of the village and climbed to the monument on a slightly sloped dirt road. And it drew us in with its magnificent view and majestic stance. We sat facing the valley for a while and enjoyed the idyllic view. We played with snowballs and we talked a little about Phrygia and its myths. 
  • Yapildak Asarkale: Unfortunately, we could not approach our next target, Asarkale, by vehicle. The ground was already muddy in places; We parked where the stream froze over and tried the dirt road. But we couldn’t find a proper path, so we walked around and took pictures from a distance.
  • Lion Temple & Seljuk Tomb: When we reached the Lion Temple, we were extremely happy to have extended our way there. First of all, the rock tomb turned out to be much more impressive and important than we expected. The temple area, where Cybele was previously worshiped and overlooking the sunrise, was probably used as a tomb during the Roman period. Based on the inscription, it is thought to be the tomb of the heroic General Solon, who captured the Anatolian cities in the Roman period. It was also wonderful to wander around the remains called Yarım Konak, which was probably used since ancient times. It was also gorgeous to view at the valley and Kümbet Village from the top. 

Gastro-Afyon

We arrived in Afyon center at dusk. Our goal was to fill eat before relaxing in our rental house with a thermal pool. Master Salim was our target. The meat dish with prunes and the eggplant pastry were amazing; but you can taste a variation of the food by ordering the chef’s plate. Of course, their creamy desserts are legendary… After we got over the shock that there was no tea service, we had our desserts to goso we could eat them at home. 

We did the food & beverage shopping in these places:

IN AFYON:

  • Master Salim: The right address for Ottoman cuisine and delicious desserts. It can be a little crowded on the weekend.
  • Altınay Turkish Delight: The shop right at the beginning of Uzun Çarşı; it’s impossible to miss. The magnificent creamy delight was out of stock so we bought the one with walnuts; it was also incredibly delicious. 
  • Butcher Celal Sausages: We bought our sausages from here. I also bought bacon and roasted meat; but those were not as perfect as what I got from Kastamonu. 
  • Historical TaşHan: Taşhan is ideal if you want to take a tea or coffee break and shop from local artisans in a historical building. 

IN GAZLIGÖL 

  • Aksu Oven: The most delicious poppy seed bun I’ve ever eaten in my life. Moreover, we learned here that simit comes in many varieties; the ones with cream, cheese, butter and tahini are legendary. 
  • Ünallar Butcher: This is also a recommended sausage spot. 
  • Manufacturer Şekerci Nuri: Real buffalo yoghurt and cream is here. But you need to order in advance. Mr. Nuri and his family make shipments to Istanbul twice a week. 

Afyon & Phrygian Valley

With the pride of having made a quick introduction to Phrygia, we decided to enjoy the next day by exploring the other targets leisurely. And afterwards, we took a tea break at Emre Lake at the spot where the movie “AROG” was shot. Then we visited the old Afyon city center. Our only regret wasforgetting that the Afyonkarahisar Archeology Museum was closed on Monday.We wanted to see it so much we would have made the schedule different to include the museum earlier.

  • Ayazini Rock Church: Located right at the entrance of the Phrygian Valley, centered on Ayazini, this rock-carved church was a good start to the Sunday route and the trip. The light was gorgeous early in the morning. You can also walk to the lion tomb and rock settlements from here. 
  • Ayazini Metropolis Multi-storey Settlement: Introduced as the world’s first apartment building, this multi-storey settlement carved into rocks is quite interesting. It is already located at the beginning of the valley. 
  • Ayazini Necropolis: Ayazini is a settlement that was home to people for thousands of years and still is. The necropolis located at the entrance of this village, intertwined with rock settlements, continues to be used as a cemetery today. The landscape we pass by, with rock tombs in the background and tombstones in the front, tells us about the continuity of civilization and that death is a part of life. 
  • Ayazini Village: It was lovely with its preserved texture, modest but cute buildings, streets decorated with evil eye beads or lavender, living spaces combined with settlements carved into rocks, and most of all, its surprising squares and courtyards. After wandering around quite a lot, we sat down for breakfast at a small family owned cafe. Everything with clotted cream, tahini molasses, eggs and sausage was great at Ayazma Cave Cafe Restaurant. They also surprised us with their delicious poppy paste. After the meal, we visited the shops and sat at another cafe that impressed us with its courtyard full of antiques in the shade of mulberries: Dutlu Bahçe is in Frighan Ayazini We drank sahlep with poppy seeds.  
  • Avdalaz Castle: These settlements carved into the rocks here were easy to defend and therefore frequently used for military purposes. Avdalaz Castle is one of these castles, which is very different from the standard castles we know and looks like cliffs with gullies from the outside. If you are not afraid of heights, you can climb up into it.
  • Aslantaş Yılantaş Ruins: It was a very short but enjoyable visit. You can imagine the grandeur of the monument that once stood there from the size of the large stone ruins with lion carvings. Now there are very few pieces left; still, it’s is ideal for the lion’s mouth pose! 
  • Maltaş Ruins: In front of this rock tomb monument, newly landscaped, there is a sacred area where Cybele was worshiped. Thanks to the new arrangement, it was very impressive to sit on the steps and stare at the traces left from thousands of years ago. As we approached the ruins, we saw a magnificent bird with giant wings. We guessed that this domestic bird was a red hawk. 
  • Cold Vadisi Tabiat Parki and King’s Road: As we moved north from the Göynüş valley and approached this natural park, Cappadocia-like rock formations began to appear. When we climbed the winding road to the entrance of the park, there was a huge valley view in front of us. We proceeded a little further to see our target, the King’s Road. We parked our car at an intersection and followed the brown signs until we reached the ruins of the ancient road. It is a small part of an important route that actually covers most of Western Anatolia and bears the traces of thousands of years of caravans, military and civilian traffic. It’s a great spot to imagine the busiest time of this ancient highway, carved here layer by layer by the wheels of horse carriages. 
  • Emre Lake and Kırkmerdiven Rocks: The beauty of this tiny lake welcomes the view of natural formations around it. Some parts of the movie “AROG” was also shot here. Therefore, it has become a tourist attraction; but it is a modest place consisting of mules you can ride, set pieces and a man selling tea. Still, it is a nice stop… Moreover, the layer of ice on the surface of the water provided for more entertainment; especially when the wind blew and the ice started to pile up towards the shore.
  • Afyonkarahisar Castle: We were wrong to assume we could easily climb up to this hawk’s nest castle perched on top of giant rocks in the heart of the city. More precisely, we miscalculated… We thought we would approach by car and leave at sunset. It turns out that it is a castle that can be climbed on foot with almost 700 steps. Moreover, these steps could freeze in winter. We did not risk it and we wandered around the streets instead.
  • Afyon Streets and Houses: We had read that old Afyon houses were being restored on route to the Afyon Grand Mosque. But personally, I was a little disturbed by the lack of care I saw like in many mass restoration projects in our country. On one hand, I understand the economic and logistical difficulty of transforming the fabric of such a large area. On the other hand, I feel these buildings, which lack original details and experiences, are insincere, depthless and unreal. Moreover, I think this method is not sustainable; because they lose their originality and cease to be an attraction. Still, it’s much better than letting a city be completely destroyed and occupied by concrete blocks. Maybe it’s my extreme architectural sensitivity; it’s a subjective issue. 
  • Afyonkarahisar Grand Mosque: I always try to see the grand mosques of the cities I visit; especially if it is a Seljuk work like this. Afyon Grand Mosque did not disappoint; it actually fascinated me. I think it is one of the most beautiful buildings of the period, both technically and aesthetically, with its magnificent roof supported by giant wooden poles, muqarnas decorations on the tops of the columns, and its modest but impressive proportions. A must see!

Return Route Kütahya

Since we couldn’t visit the Afyon Museum, we set back home early… We had already targeted Kütahya to see somewhere new. Since we had plenty of time, we decided to visit a few places in here. Unfortunately, there are not so many options! There are only a handful of places to visit in the center you can cover an hour or two:

Ultimately, Afyon is a great destination for a 3 or 2-day trip… It appeals to every sense. History, nature and food stimulates every sense. Especially if you have access to thermal healing waters where you stay. But be careful, there are so many intellectual calories here!!!

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BEARING PORTUGAL

Izmir – Lisbon – Porto Triangle

A friend of mine who lives in Izmir found a cheap ticket from Pegasus Airlines’ Izmir-Lisbon flights. She called me at the beginning of summer to ask if I would come to Lisbon in November with her. Of course I wanted to… Besides, one of my close friends lives in Porto; I’ve been wanting to visit for a while now. We aimed for both cities – Lisbon & Porto for 5 days. 

As November approached, plans became clearer; I turned my trip to Portugal from Izmir into an Aegean vacation in fall and arrived in Izmir after some traveling. Meanwhile, I clarified the logistics and date details of the Porto visit. We decided to transfer from the airport to the terminal as soon as we landed, go to Porto by bus, stay for 2 nights and spend the remaining time in Lisbon. 

Apparently, we had made a good decision… First of all, Izmir airport international terminal is very comfortable! There is no trace of the crowd and chaos of Istanbul. From transportation to parking, from security at the airport to terminal access, everything went smoothly. So much so that I decided to make plans abroad from İzmir more often! 

It was also very productive to go to Lisbon with an early morning flight. We easily went to the bus terminal by metro from the airport (only 2 stops). We could also go by train, but the buses had more frequent schedules and were much cheaper. At the terminal, we bought tickets for the bus an hour later, took a breather, and had the opportunity to drink our coffee and eat a bite. After a three-hour journey, our bus arrived at Porto bus terminal on time. Thus, we arrived in the city before dark. 

Porto…

We stayed here for 1.5 days and 2 nights. It wasn’t really enough and we decided to come back later. It was also smart to do Porto first because it is a much quieter city. It was an easy adjustment to Portugal from here.

Porto stops:

  • Louis I Bridge – A pearl bridge of the industrial period, the work of the architect of the Eiffel Tower.  I would definitely recommend walking on it if your fear of heights allows; An amazing view and a great feeling.
  • Porto Sao Bento – Train station in the center of the city. Please don’t ignore it; the blue wall designs with wonderful stories are legendary. 
  • Chapel of Souls – One of the most elegant blue and white fairy-tale churches. 
  • Bolhão Market – Both its architecture and the market inside definitely deserve a visit. 
  • Church of Saint İldefonso – Another Blue church
  • Clérigos Tower – A tower, one of the symbols of the city
  • Majestic Café – This is the exact definition of sophisticated cafe. It is a unique place, from its finely crafted decoration to its elegant service.  They say it is Europe’s first cafe; even if it’s not it’s with the visit.
  • Livraria Lello – The legendary bookstore that inspired the Harry Potter novels and where the author frequently visited while she lived in Porto. Be careful, there is an entrance fee and there is always a queue. 
  • Ferreira Borges Market – Another industrial period building with a market. When we visited, there was second hand sales of clothes and accessories for Christmas. 
  • Ribeira Pier – It is a must to wander around the riverside and have some fun. 
  • R. das Flores – Much like Istiklal Street in Taksim, a street that hosts the mansions of Porto’s former rich people. There are many beautiful design shops.
  • Foz de Douro – The summer resort of the rich people of Old Porto. It is now a stylish, pleasant and quiet oceanside neighborhood. You must visit just to see the facades of the magnificent houses and to smell, hear and even touch the ocean. 

No time left, next time:

Lisbon…

Lisbon stops:

There are many magnificent churches in the city. We created our travel route with the most essential ones. We also visited some of the places we encountered on our route. I wrote down the ones that left an impression on me; but most of them are quite impressive. 

  • Lisbon Cathedral – A truly imposing and impressive building. 
  • Church of Saint Dominic – It is a very special place that has survived earthquakes and fires and bears the traces of these disasters on its walls. It should be visited just to see the traces of history. 
  • Carmo Nunnery – Be sure to go to look at the sky from the ceiling that is no longer in place, watch the magnificent architecture of its time, and visit the small but impressive exhibition on the side of the museum.
  • Monument to the Discoveries – Monument to Portuguese seafaring explorers. This is a modern piece of art, but the Belem region is the ideal point to start the route. Not to mention a wonderful view. 
  • White Tower – A lace-like defense building, half an hour away from the city center. One of Lisbon’s pilgrimage spots.
  • Jerónimos Monastery and Archaeological museum – Another pilgrimage place coming back from Belem. But the Archeology museum is closed for 1 year until 2025. I will come back for this 
  • Calouste Gulbenkian Museum & Gulbenkian Modern Art Center (CAM) – Private collection and modern art museum belonging to the foundation of the Istanbul-born, Ottoman citizen Armenian couple Gulbenkian family. Traces of the richness from the oil from the beginning of the century belonging to the man who later became a British citizen, known as Mr. 5%, can be seen in this legendary private collection. The building with its incredibly peaceful Zen gardens and the wonderful exhibition spaces are beautiful, as are the pieces themselves. You should definitely go, even a half day is ideal for those who love modern art. 

Shopping:

  • Flea Market (Campo de Santa Clara) – flea market (tuesday & saturday)
  • Santa Clara Market – a stable marketplace, when we visited it was a record and music market
  • LxMarket – Market with designer, craft and second-hand shops. A wonderful environment in old industrial building zone spread over a wide area with plenty of cafe & restaurant options. Creativity is oozing everywhere and there was live music all weekend too. 
  • R. Augustus – Like our Istiklal Street, it is the liveliest street of the city, closed to traffic, with all kinds of shops, food and beverages. 
  • Figueira Square & Rossio Square – Two squares in the city center, huge and beautiful. Starting from the end of November, Christmas markets satisfied our eyes and our appetite.  
  • Oikos Space – Meeting and Cooperation Platform – It is a shop selling designer and handicraft products in a very unique and delightful environment, in the laundry building of a former women’s prison (maybe it was also the kitchen, I’m not sure). Worth visiting just for fun too.
  • São Pedro de Alcântara Viewpoint – A pleasant, scenic square overlooking the city from the opposite side of the castle. There is also a small Christmas market set up in the middle. 

Other:

  • Tram 28 – A nostalgic tram route for a hop-on, hop-off tour of the city
  • BICA ELEVATOR – One of the trams that goes up the hills. Actually, there is one on every hill, but this one is quite popular.  The distance is not long but steep; Tram schedules are at long intervals of 12 minutes. It’s fun to ride it at least once. 
  • Lisboa Oriente Station – The main stop of both train, bus and metro. We got on and off the bus from here, going to and from Porto. We also paid tribute to one of our architectural idols, Santiago Calatrava.  

Food, beverage & entertainment:

  • Belém Pastries – The first place that comes to mind if you like Nata, a delicious taste that melts in your mouth. The exclamation point of the Belem tour! 
  • A Ginjinha – One of the famous cherry/cherry liqueur places. I especially liked this place because of its central location and because locals frequent it to grab a quick glass. 
  • Pocket of Jaime d’Alfama – We went here for Fado night upon recommendation. It is a small place with 5-6 tables, but its music and food are original and delicious. What we liked most was that the soloists changed every few songs; thus giving the opportunity to listen to a variety of sounds. Moreover, the opportunity to meet and socialize with the beautiful fado soloist Sonya was the highlight of the night. 

We didn’t go but it’s on the list for next time:

Second Time’s a Must! 

Why I loved Portugal so much; 

First of all, the weather is very nice… I later learned that Portugal always has a temperate climate. When we arrived, we were expecting autumn colors but everywhere was green and even full of flowers. We realized that the weather is always spring-like in this country on the ocean coast, it’s even named “Temperate Port”. I guess winter is like autumn and summer is like spring. At the end of November and the beginning of December, we walked around in t-shirts, sometimes with jackets. This temperate climate also affects the vegetation; we got an idea of ​​the lush green nature and vineyards on our trip to Porto 

The ocean is something else… We felt it more in Porto because we had the opportunity to walk on the shore and touch the water. Whether you see it in a soft or majestic mood; the ocean takes your breath away. It’s nothing like the open sea; the energy is completely different. The sovereign says “I own this planet”. It’s also saying “life started with me and it’s possible only with me”. There is no room for unnecessary modesty here.  

But real life is in the cities… I loved the cities that this seafaring nation built in the giant river ports opening to the ocean, and the sweet flow of life here. Just like the combination of the powerful dynamism of the ocean and the fluid serenity of the river. There are sweet surprises and bouncy entertainment in city life; and also idle breaks and leisurely moments. I think Porto is a bit quieter, both because there are fewer residents and because it is further north. Lisbon, on the other hand, is more crowded and dynamic. 

In both cities there is an aesthetic that captures the attention of  the architect in me. It is not a wealth that is not forced, a show-off, a nouveau riche; but an aristocratic elegance that has been finely crafted over the years. Portugal’s hilly cities offer unique views from countless perspectives, like a giant canvas enlivened with colors and patterns by the ceramics adorning the facades of the buildings they call azulejo. It is not lacking in ornamentation either; the magnificent baroque is also here. Classical works of fine arts live with works of world-famous or local modern architects such as Calatrava and Koolhaas. But none of them compete with each other or bully each other. 

You can trace the traces of a culture that has transformed craft into art, starting from ceramics to other design products. The store in Porto where local designers’ products are sold, the cooperative shop in Lisbon, the small boutiques, the tiny corner cafes and even a poetry and narrative hall. I really liked the understated yet dignified stance of design here and how it is one of the main pillars of existence of life. 

I want to visit Portugal again and stay longer to dive deeper into this rich aesthetic world, to absorb its culture from music to art, and to be a part of life in Portugal rather than a tourist. Moreover, there are many places that I have not seen yet!

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Is Rhodes Really a Greek Island?

The Popular Destination

Rhodes is a huge island at the far east of mainland Greece… But it really doesn’t look like a Greek island. When you first step in, Rhodes city welcomes you with its imposing castle, the legacy of the knights,and it is very different from other Greek islands with its environment & ambiance

The center of Rhodes, where the medieval style dominates, has nothing to do with the well known image of the Aegean islands. You’ll seek in vain to see white houses with blue painted window sills. You may find the closest to this postcard-style in Lindos, the southern jewel of the island, but even this place does not fit into that common stereotype. 

The locals of the island, built on the ancient trade routes of the Mediterranean, are a diverse mixture and therefore the culture is very colorful. Moreover, it is a highly preferred destination and attracts flocks from all over the world from giant cruise ships to buzzing air traffic, so the streets are always full of tourists.

There are ferries from Bodrum, Marmaris and Fethiye ports in Turkey. The journey takes between 1.5-3 hours depending on the location. We crossed on foot from Fethiye, which is a quite small port; we had to wait a bit in line, but it was quick. The port of Rhodes itself is very large but has a very disorganized system; Still, we progressed quickly through the gates. In my opinion, there is no need to go to the port early either on departure or return. But just so you know, you pay an extra port tax of up to 20 euros in both directions, in addition to the ticket. 

Where to Stay?

You can stay anywhere on the island; the shores are full of hotels of all kinds. Facilities, beaches and water sports centers are lined up as you exit the airport on the north to the center. A similar variation exists on the southern coast, especially around Lindos. 

Your preferences are important when it comes to choosing a place because there is plenty of variety. It depends on whether you want to dive into the sea as soon as you leave your room / house or feel like a traveler going through the portals of history. Personally, I prefer to stay in the throbbing heart of the places I visit, where I can get a little bit of everything. I get soaked in the culture, from site seeing to shopping, from food to museums. Especially if we are going to stay for a long time, we choose houses where we can get comfortable with our own kitchen. Therefore, we rented a house for a week inside the old town in Rhodes.

We also rented a car to travel all around the island. But beware, only those who live there can permanently park their cars inside the old town walls. So it is not possible to park right in front of your residence while staying in the old city. However, it is very easy to park somewhere nearby and walk a little. 

Alternatively, you can try the area around Lindos to stay somewhere closer to the beach. This area has beautiful beaches, marine life and creamy water. Moreover, Lindos center, built on the old settlement and right next to the acropolis, is a pleasant environment with its white-painted houses and narrow streets that remind you of old Bodrum. 

Choose As You Please

You can go to Rhodes for any combination of culture & history / nature & sea / gastronomy / shopping options. Or if you choose option D like me, that is all of them; here is the list: 

  • Culture & History:
    • Rhodes Castle and Medieval City: Whether you walk around it or wander its streets; By all means, I recommend spending at least one day here. It is a must to sip a caffeinated or soft drink in one of the venues with a courtyard. 
  • Rhodes Quartet: You do not need to allocate the same time to each of these four, but their tickets are sold jointly, so it would be better to buy a combination. It’s all very close anyway.
  • Archaeological Museum: The building itself is exquisite and so are the pieces inside. We finished it in half a day, but you can even spend from an hour to a full day there. Moreover, it has cute gardens and a sweet cafe with delicious portacolapita.
  • Rhodes Cathedral: A short visit is enough, but the place is impressive. The tickets are not sold separately. 
  • Museum of Decorative Artsi: Small but beautiful pieces; a short but satisfying visit. 
  • Rhodes Acropolis Archaeological Park: We went there to complete our pilgrimage, but it wasn’t very impressive. The temple is hardly standing, and other restorations are mediocre. You can walk around in an hour. 
  • Lindos Acropolis and Settlement: The most impressive remains in the island; Although the structures are partially standing and the restoration is still mediocre, the site is breathtaking with its panoramic location. Moreover, the winding road up to it, the ancient ship relief on the walls and the exquisite view of the temple are all worth the climb. Although you can take a donkey ride from the square too, I think it is worth walking. From the temple, you can watch the turquoise waters on one side and the buzzy streets of the ancient settlement on the other. 
  • Kamiros Ancient City: The three sons of the titan god Helios, who is also the symbol of Rhodes in mythology, and his wife Rhodes founded three separate cities on the island. This third one is an archaeological park on the northern shores, about 1 hour away from the center. It is not really exciting like Lindos, which is a town still alive. But it is not as dull as the acropolis of Rhodes; it’s somewhere in between… If you have time, you can spare a few hours or make a stop on the northern route. 
  • monasteries: As in every Greek island, there are many monasteries on the hills overlooking the view. Since we did not come across anything with a particularly historical or structural importance, we chose one at random on our way. From where we parked, we went up a long, steep hill and then climbed a staircase of 300 steps. You will like a place if you make all that effort! In the Virgin Mary Chapel We planted two candles, whistled to the panorama and went back down. 
  • Nature & Sea:
    • Rhodes City Beaches: City beaches, which you can easily reach even by walking, are both practical and enjoyable. We found a very comfortable place to relax on a weekday. The water was great too; it was a great way to enjoy the rest of the day after wandering around the city. The north side may be a little windy and wavy depending on the weather, but once you turn south from the little cape, the sea becomes calm.
    • Anthony Quinn Koyu: I’ve never swum in a natural aquarium like this before! The rocky bay beach gets shaded quickly due to the narrow and steep slopes. But it definitely deserves to be popular at all times of the year. It’s a great place to swim among giant flocks of sea bream and watch all kinds of aquatic creatures. The most expensive sun lounger and umbrella prices on the island are here; but laying a towel on the shore is free.  
  • Tsambika Beach: There are multiple facilities on this long sandy beach. Both the water sports section at one end and the nude beach section at the other are among the options. Although the water basin is not as lively as Anthony Quinn Bay, the marine life is still beautiful. But the water is so soft and feels so good that it made us wonder if we were in a spa. Actually, all the waters of island feel good but this place was the best. 
  • Prasonisi Beach: This is the southernmost tip of the island. Like the north, it has two different shores on both sides; but the contrast is greater here.At the north shores, a wide variety of surfing and windy sports are performed. The south side is quieter and more peaceful, but still offers some pleasant eye candy of surfers.
  • Lindos Beach: This is a place to kill two birds with one stone… We didn’t go down, but it looked nice. Be careful it might be a little crowded; the evenings are calmer. 

Followers of Vedat Milor

I love hunting for local flavors from various sources wherever I go. But the ones I trust most and follow with enthusiasm are Turkish gurme Vedat Milor’s recommendations. Before going to Rhodes, we listed the spots he mentioned. I am adding our own discoveries to it here… 

  • TAMAM Restaurant: This is a wonderful place; Tamam did not only met the expectations we heard from Mr. Vedat, but exceeded them. Green salad, cheese salad, mushrooms with white wine, octopus with orange sauce, lamb and pork… all were excellent flavors.  Moreover, the treats of the owner, Mr. Andreas, to our vegan friends made a great impression on the table. And homemade orange liqueur was the most amazing liqueur I’ve ever tasted! My only reason for deducting one star from the place is the plastic greens on the roof. It’s not obvious from afar, but I wish they were real. Still, it’s the only place on the island we went to eat for the second time!
  • Stegna Kozas: We found legendary flavors of Mr.Vedat’s taste here, too. For example, I have never tasted such a delicious fish egg dish in my life! The calamari with ink sauce and the shellfish plate called “orgasm” were both excellent. Frankly speaking, the fish was a bit too much both in terms of quantity and price; It makes more sense to order more of the appetizers here. It was the most expensive place we went to. We paid 60 E per person, but frankly we ate too much. 
  • Mageirotechneio Taverna Paraga: This is a gem right in the middle of the island, in the mountains at its heart. We were a little late because we spent too much time at the beach. If we had gone earlier we could have enjoyed the magnificent view longer. Moreover, we came across a deer on the road and made eye contact with it. And later a gazelle appeared right in front of uson the road! The drive was long but the taste was definitely worth it. The best lamb tandoori I have ever tasted in my life was here. Everything was delicious, especially their own special bread kinds. Our host was very gracious and sincere. I would come back to Rhodes just to eat here again.
  • Peskesi Greek Cuisine: It is a modest but delicious establishment on the north shore of the city, where you can enjoy watching the sunset. The steamed mussels were amazing. 
  • Zebrano Cafe Restaurant Bar: It’s a magnificent place right next to the museums and attached to the wall of the cathedral. Examining the details of the buildings and sitting in the shadow of the exquisite vines and flowers surrounding them relaxes you so much. We didn’t have the opportunity to eat the first time, but the courtyard was so attractive that we went again. I recommend stopping by, even just for a drink. 

The Island Thing

Rhodes deserves to be an attractive destination… It is perfect for both culture, nature and sea tourism. But that’s exactly why it’s a bit too touristy. There is still the opportunity to escape the crowds and have original experiences. I really recommend going at the end of the season, not in the summer; maybe October. Even then there were times when we were exhausted by the heat. But the planning of the towns allows you to make your own discoveries by frequently escaping to small stress from the main ones even in crowded areas. 

We traveled as a group of girls and Rhodes impressed each of us the most with its water quality! The sea, the river, the water flowing from the shower… The feeling of the water was so soft and relaxing that it amazed us all. After a week on the island, our hair and skin were so beautiful that it was as if we had a spa experience. One of us even said he would settle here just for the water! 

But I cannot say that Rhodes is impressive as a whole spatial experience and it does not fit the classical image of the Greek islands. I might say it is not similar to a fashion show that blows your mind or a giant concert that you sing along or scream to. It’s more like a huge store where you can find stylish pieces that fit you perfectly. Or like the celebrity festival where the idols you admire sing a few songs. Of course, the medieval festival we came across at the weekend during our stay added to the excitement of our adventure… Being in Rhodes in the first week of October is lucky in this respect; you can make a note of that. 

After all, Rhodes is so different that I think it is not right to compare it with other Greek islands. Starting from the castle, which welcomes you with its strong masculine energy as soon as you set foot, we felt like we were in another mainland country throughout our journey rather than a Greek Island fantasy. Even though we had the opportunity to make a roundtrip around it, it was not possible to experience every point in depth of course. However, I can say that it was a a satisfying vacation.