Tag: traveling

Posted on

BEARING PORTUGAL

Izmir – Lisbon – Porto Triangle

A friend of mine who lives in Izmir found a cheap ticket from Pegasus Airlines’ Izmir-Lisbon flights. She called me at the beginning of summer to ask if I would come to Lisbon in November with her. Of course I wanted to… Besides, one of my close friends lives in Porto; I’ve been wanting to visit for a while now. We aimed for both cities – Lisbon & Porto for 5 days. 

As November approached, plans became clearer; I turned my trip to Portugal from Izmir into an Aegean vacation in fall and arrived in Izmir after some traveling. Meanwhile, I clarified the logistics and date details of the Porto visit. We decided to transfer from the airport to the terminal as soon as we landed, go to Porto by bus, stay for 2 nights and spend the remaining time in Lisbon. 

Apparently, we had made a good decision… First of all, Izmir airport international terminal is very comfortable! There is no trace of the crowd and chaos of Istanbul. From transportation to parking, from security at the airport to terminal access, everything went smoothly. So much so that I decided to make plans abroad from İzmir more often! 

It was also very productive to go to Lisbon with an early morning flight. We easily went to the bus terminal by metro from the airport (only 2 stops). We could also go by train, but the buses had more frequent schedules and were much cheaper. At the terminal, we bought tickets for the bus an hour later, took a breather, and had the opportunity to drink our coffee and eat a bite. After a three-hour journey, our bus arrived at Porto bus terminal on time. Thus, we arrived in the city before dark. 

Porto…

We stayed here for 1.5 days and 2 nights. It wasn’t really enough and we decided to come back later. It was also smart to do Porto first because it is a much quieter city. It was an easy adjustment to Portugal from here.

Porto stops:

  • Louis I Bridge – A pearl bridge of the industrial period, the work of the architect of the Eiffel Tower.  I would definitely recommend walking on it if your fear of heights allows; An amazing view and a great feeling.
  • Porto Sao Bento – Train station in the center of the city. Please don’t ignore it; the blue wall designs with wonderful stories are legendary. 
  • Chapel of Souls – One of the most elegant blue and white fairy-tale churches. 
  • Bolhão Market – Both its architecture and the market inside definitely deserve a visit. 
  • Church of Saint İldefonso – Another Blue church
  • Clérigos Tower – A tower, one of the symbols of the city
  • Majestic Café – This is the exact definition of sophisticated cafe. It is a unique place, from its finely crafted decoration to its elegant service.  They say it is Europe’s first cafe; even if it’s not it’s with the visit.
  • Livraria Lello – The legendary bookstore that inspired the Harry Potter novels and where the author frequently visited while she lived in Porto. Be careful, there is an entrance fee and there is always a queue. 
  • Ferreira Borges Market – Another industrial period building with a market. When we visited, there was second hand sales of clothes and accessories for Christmas. 
  • Ribeira Pier – It is a must to wander around the riverside and have some fun. 
  • R. das Flores – Much like Istiklal Street in Taksim, a street that hosts the mansions of Porto’s former rich people. There are many beautiful design shops.
  • Foz de Douro – The summer resort of the rich people of Old Porto. It is now a stylish, pleasant and quiet oceanside neighborhood. You must visit just to see the facades of the magnificent houses and to smell, hear and even touch the ocean. 

No time left, next time:

Lisbon…

Lisbon stops:

There are many magnificent churches in the city. We created our travel route with the most essential ones. We also visited some of the places we encountered on our route. I wrote down the ones that left an impression on me; but most of them are quite impressive. 

  • Lisbon Cathedral – A truly imposing and impressive building. 
  • Church of Saint Dominic – It is a very special place that has survived earthquakes and fires and bears the traces of these disasters on its walls. It should be visited just to see the traces of history. 
  • Carmo Nunnery – Be sure to go to look at the sky from the ceiling that is no longer in place, watch the magnificent architecture of its time, and visit the small but impressive exhibition on the side of the museum.
  • Monument to the Discoveries – Monument to Portuguese seafaring explorers. This is a modern piece of art, but the Belem region is the ideal point to start the route. Not to mention a wonderful view. 
  • White Tower – A lace-like defense building, half an hour away from the city center. One of Lisbon’s pilgrimage spots.
  • Jerónimos Monastery and Archaeological museum – Another pilgrimage place coming back from Belem. But the Archeology museum is closed for 1 year until 2025. I will come back for this 
  • Calouste Gulbenkian Museum & Gulbenkian Modern Art Center (CAM) – Private collection and modern art museum belonging to the foundation of the Istanbul-born, Ottoman citizen Armenian couple Gulbenkian family. Traces of the richness from the oil from the beginning of the century belonging to the man who later became a British citizen, known as Mr. 5%, can be seen in this legendary private collection. The building with its incredibly peaceful Zen gardens and the wonderful exhibition spaces are beautiful, as are the pieces themselves. You should definitely go, even a half day is ideal for those who love modern art. 

Shopping:

  • Flea Market (Campo de Santa Clara) – flea market (tuesday & saturday)
  • Santa Clara Market – a stable marketplace, when we visited it was a record and music market
  • LxMarket – Market with designer, craft and second-hand shops. A wonderful environment in old industrial building zone spread over a wide area with plenty of cafe & restaurant options. Creativity is oozing everywhere and there was live music all weekend too. 
  • R. Augustus – Like our Istiklal Street, it is the liveliest street of the city, closed to traffic, with all kinds of shops, food and beverages. 
  • Figueira Square & Rossio Square – Two squares in the city center, huge and beautiful. Starting from the end of November, Christmas markets satisfied our eyes and our appetite.  
  • Oikos Space – Meeting and Cooperation Platform – It is a shop selling designer and handicraft products in a very unique and delightful environment, in the laundry building of a former women’s prison (maybe it was also the kitchen, I’m not sure). Worth visiting just for fun too.
  • São Pedro de Alcântara Viewpoint – A pleasant, scenic square overlooking the city from the opposite side of the castle. There is also a small Christmas market set up in the middle. 

Other:

  • Tram 28 – A nostalgic tram route for a hop-on, hop-off tour of the city
  • BICA ELEVATOR – One of the trams that goes up the hills. Actually, there is one on every hill, but this one is quite popular.  The distance is not long but steep; Tram schedules are at long intervals of 12 minutes. It’s fun to ride it at least once. 
  • Lisboa Oriente Station – The main stop of both train, bus and metro. We got on and off the bus from here, going to and from Porto. We also paid tribute to one of our architectural idols, Santiago Calatrava.  

Food, beverage & entertainment:

  • Belém Pastries – The first place that comes to mind if you like Nata, a delicious taste that melts in your mouth. The exclamation point of the Belem tour! 
  • A Ginjinha – One of the famous cherry/cherry liqueur places. I especially liked this place because of its central location and because locals frequent it to grab a quick glass. 
  • Pocket of Jaime d’Alfama – We went here for Fado night upon recommendation. It is a small place with 5-6 tables, but its music and food are original and delicious. What we liked most was that the soloists changed every few songs; thus giving the opportunity to listen to a variety of sounds. Moreover, the opportunity to meet and socialize with the beautiful fado soloist Sonya was the highlight of the night. 

We didn’t go but it’s on the list for next time:

Second Time’s a Must! 

Why I loved Portugal so much; 

First of all, the weather is very nice… I later learned that Portugal always has a temperate climate. When we arrived, we were expecting autumn colors but everywhere was green and even full of flowers. We realized that the weather is always spring-like in this country on the ocean coast, it’s even named “Temperate Port”. I guess winter is like autumn and summer is like spring. At the end of November and the beginning of December, we walked around in t-shirts, sometimes with jackets. This temperate climate also affects the vegetation; we got an idea of ​​the lush green nature and vineyards on our trip to Porto 

The ocean is something else… We felt it more in Porto because we had the opportunity to walk on the shore and touch the water. Whether you see it in a soft or majestic mood; the ocean takes your breath away. It’s nothing like the open sea; the energy is completely different. The sovereign says “I own this planet”. It’s also saying “life started with me and it’s possible only with me”. There is no room for unnecessary modesty here.  

But real life is in the cities… I loved the cities that this seafaring nation built in the giant river ports opening to the ocean, and the sweet flow of life here. Just like the combination of the powerful dynamism of the ocean and the fluid serenity of the river. There are sweet surprises and bouncy entertainment in city life; and also idle breaks and leisurely moments. I think Porto is a bit quieter, both because there are fewer residents and because it is further north. Lisbon, on the other hand, is more crowded and dynamic. 

In both cities there is an aesthetic that captures the attention of  the architect in me. It is not a wealth that is not forced, a show-off, a nouveau riche; but an aristocratic elegance that has been finely crafted over the years. Portugal’s hilly cities offer unique views from countless perspectives, like a giant canvas enlivened with colors and patterns by the ceramics adorning the facades of the buildings they call azulejo. It is not lacking in ornamentation either; the magnificent baroque is also here. Classical works of fine arts live with works of world-famous or local modern architects such as Calatrava and Koolhaas. But none of them compete with each other or bully each other. 

You can trace the traces of a culture that has transformed craft into art, starting from ceramics to other design products. The store in Porto where local designers’ products are sold, the cooperative shop in Lisbon, the small boutiques, the tiny corner cafes and even a poetry and narrative hall. I really liked the understated yet dignified stance of design here and how it is one of the main pillars of existence of life. 

I want to visit Portugal again and stay longer to dive deeper into this rich aesthetic world, to absorb its culture from music to art, and to be a part of life in Portugal rather than a tourist. Moreover, there are many places that I have not seen yet!

Posted on

Van, the Pearl of the East

Why and How?

Who wouldn’t remember Turkey’s largest lake from their first geography classes? That’s when I first wondered about Van. But then I forgot of course; it was too far away from my small world. Then during my secondary school years, I learned that my aunt’s husband, the eldest of the family, whom we called Enishte was from Van. I questioned him a bit but I don’t remember what he said. The topic was once again shelved for a long time. Until my mother retired and started traveling and went to Van with Enishte’s guidance. Over time, as my appetite to discover the treasures of my country grew, Van moved up in my list. And when I was preparing the digital content of the Urartian exhibition for the Rezan Has Museum, I became extremely curious. But work and priorities blocked my path. 

As I was able to spare more time to travel, explore and experience the world; I targeted my destinations not only by planning, but also by spontaneous decisions. And Van won the lottery from the airline discount campaign! Suddenly, I was choosing a destination for domestic flights at the end of October. With our cheap tickets purchased in advance, we arrived in Van with a journey that took approximately 2 hours from Istanbul airport.

Places to See in Van

I didn’t think we could visit all of the places we targeted in a three-night, three-and-a-half-day trip. Especially when it had started to get dark very early in the far east of Turkey. But we were a perfect team with my history and archeology enthusiast friends who loved traveling.We used time to the limits, starting the day very early, driving around the lake and consuming local delicacies in quantities way over our capacity. 

We used our time very efficiently; so I am listing our travel route in chronological order. … 

  • Van Museum: It was a great decision to start the trip from here… We not only saw the ruins unearthed from the entire region; we were informed on the history and culture of Van, especially its magnificent ancestors, the Urartians. Thus, we were able to plan the rest of our trip much easier and make better sense of what we saw. 
  • Tuşpa Castle: Tuşpa, the capital of the Urartian kingdom from the 9th century BC until its collapse, is the ancestor of the new Van city. The Castle, right next to the center, overlooks the entire region, the city, the lake and the mountains, from a majestic hill. Like many ruins, entrance to the castle is free with a Museum Card. You don’t need a physical card, you can form a QR code from the app on your phone. As you enter at the foot of the walls, it is worth going up the slope even just for the view. Unfortunately, there are not many ruins to visit inside the castle. But we found the real gem on our way back… As in all overlapping civilizations, many additions were made to the Urartu walls, including the Seljuk and Ottoman ones. While we were debating which wall was the oldest, we discovered a wonderful corner at the end of the road next to the cafeteria. We were fascinated by the cuneiform writings on the edge of a huge mass that remained intact from the Urartian city walls, the magnificent weeping willows next to it, and the fairy-tale beauty of the road going in. Moreover, it was a great spot to take photos. 
  • Çavuştepe: We went to Çavuştepe, an important trace of Urartu civilization, to see the fascinating temple ruins with cuneiform inscriptions on the stones, built with extraordinary precision for its time, and to meet the equally famous Mehmet Kuşman. When we had time left on our first day in Van, we drove here after visiting the museum and the castle. We breathed in the magical nature and history from this magnificent hill surrounded by steppes, bare mountains and green valleys. We ran our fingers over the cuneiform writings. We speculated about what else will be uncovered in the ongoing excavations. And finally we met Mehmet Kuşman. In fact, we had greeted the famous Urartian, who was working as the gatekeeper of the ruins, at the entrance. But first we had to see the site. On our way back, we did not miss the opportunity to visit his workshop in the stone building at the foot of the ruins and witness his story. Those who are curious can research him online or read Enver Şengül’s book, Keeper of Lost Time. Mehmet Kuşman is a rare gem; he has learned Urartian on his own and he is one of the few people in the world who knows this lost language and also can speak it. Proud to chat; we were excited to have our Urartian names written by him in our books which we bought from the workshop. You can visit Çavuştepe even just to meet this bright-eyed, old soul with a black cuneiform medallion. But beware, he may not be there in the off-season because he is constantly invited to speak in congresses and events. 
  • Van Lake Route: We set off at 6.30 in the morning in order to complete the journey around the lake in a day; it would roughly take 5-6 hours by car to go around if we did not stop. We arrived in Tatvan traveling on the mountain foothills and sometimes on the lakeside, accompanied by magnificently beautiful views. We took a road from Tatvan to Nemrut Crater, one of the important points of our route (this is not our famous Mount Nemrut, but the second one). Then we went back to Tatvan and then drove to Van via Ahlat, Adilcevaz, Sodalı Göl and Eriş. When the sun, which had warmed us all day long, disappeared into the red sky over the lake, it suddenly got cold and we ran inside to eat. 
  • Nemrut Crater Lake: We wanted to see this unique place, which is one of the largest volcanic crater lakes not only in Turkey but in the world. It was truly worth the journey… Starting from the Van lake view as we drove up the stone-paved road, to snow-covered slopes to green valleys, from stony shores to blue lakes and ponds the view was breathtakingly beautiful. We went as far as we could by car near the water. We did not insist on traveling more on foot, fearing the reputation of the bears that were released into the wild here years ago. But the whole thing was a wonderful experience, from its clear waters reflecting the sky like a mirror to the snowball fight at the edge of the crater. 
  • Ahlat: Ahlat, a charming settlement on the shores of the lake, is most famous for its Seljuk period ruins. The architectural appearance of the new town is in harmony with the old, as they are covered with local stones. This type of conservation and city planning should be an example for many places in Van.
    • Archaeological Museum: The small but charming museum deserves a short visit. It’s right next to the cemeteries anyway. 
    • Seljuk Cemetery: This is the largest ancient Muslim cemetery in the world. The individual Seljuk tombstones are as impressive as the huge size of the area they cover, or even more so. Each of the rectangular stone blocks, some grand and some smaller in size, are all crafted like fine lace, each telling a unique story. 
    • Tombs: The largest and most impressive monumental tombs of the region are here. I recommend to visit at least one; they take a short time to see. The unique geometry, the lighting, the earthy colors and the peaceful atmosphere is worth it. 
  • Adilcevaz: We did not have time to visit the ruins here; But we had a wonderful breakfast. 
  • Sodalı Lake & Süphan Mountain: Süphan Mountain, which seemed to be watching all over the land from the southern shores of the lake, started to look friendlier as we moved north. As I approached the snowy peaks, I compared Süphan to my Enishte, who always sat silent and stoic in a corner; I had respected him with a touch of fear… A giant who was both very close and far away, protecting and watching but not too intimate. From Sodalı Lake, a small pond on the edge of Lake Van, Süphan seemed to be staring into the distance with a slightly worn-out splendor. 
  • Ahtamar Island: We reserved Van’s most famous site for last. On the third day, we set out early in the morning to ride the Aghtamar ferries. We arrived at the pier just ahead of Gevaş with the sun at our back. We boarded around 9 o’clock and we were on the island in less than half an hour. First we objected to the boat returning in 1.5 hours. But even though it seemed too long, it was barely enough. The church itself is very impressive, structurally and with its reliefs. If you are curious you can eavesdrop on one of the tour groups that are frequent on the island; the stories are also very interesting. The interior is also impressive; especially the proportions and the magnificent light filtering through the small windows. It somewhat resembles the ruins of Ani in Kars. But this rare jewel, which is completely preserved along with the island, shines in a different way. Definitely worth half a day. 
  • Van Bazaar: Unfortunately, there is not much left of the old town in the city of Van. There is no old bazaar, no preserved neighborhood or even a block. After much research and inquiry, we heard about a “Russian Market” when we asked for souvenirs. Consisting of these few streets in the city center, it is now known as European Public Market So we did not return home empty-handed. In fact, we found more than we were looking for; there were antique treasures in a few shops that seemed to sell only trinkets. While my friends were spending most of their time there, I had already set my sights on the rug shop on the corner. With a little bargaining, I bought a wonderful rug, the largest size I could fit in my suitcase, at an affordable price. I filled my quota with a few souvenirs and a bracelet from the coppersmiths. 

Things we couldn’t go to

These are the other places in and around Van that are reserved for our next time because we ran out of time or they were a little too far away: 

  • Ahlat Ruined City
  • Ahlat Madavans Valley
  • Kef Castle
  • Hoşap Castle
  • Muradiye Waterfall
  • Dönemeç Waterfall
  • Seven Churches & Yoncatepe Necropolis
  • Süphan Mountain Trekking Route
  • Vanadokya Fairy Chimneys
  • Van Başkale Akçalı Travertines
  • Bakhchisaray
  • hizan

Where and What to Eat in Van?

We took the guidance of friends who have been to Van before or those who have lived there, the internet for our taste buds. We couldn’t try everything and some the ones we did try weren’t all great. These are the gastronomy stars of the Van trip: 

  • Urartu Khan: The food on the first night was so delicious we went there the second night. In the first one, we ordered stuffed onions to the Han Sofrası menu, which is a tasting assortment of local delicacies; It was all amazing. We tried other flavors for the second time; they were all delicious and special. We also came here for breakfast last morning after a bad experience elsewhere. We had the best Van breakfast here and we returned home with our stomachs full enough for a few days. 
  • Kuşhane: This place was closed on our second night so we went on our last night… We were not very hungry, so we were thinking of ordering only dessert. But we ate almost all the remaining local dishes. This was a special place that made us happy with wonderful tastes, with its small but cute, original decoration and elegant service. 
  • Ahlat Sofrasi: As we were leaving Ahlat and heading towards the north of the lake, we stopped at Adilcevaz because we were very hungry. Since we missed breakfast time and the electricity was out, we ate whatever was available. But what we had was modest in appearance but very very tasty. The fried eggs with meat were legendary, and the walnut and pear jams were flavors we could never find again. 

Lake Pearl

Even as the plane lands at the airport by the lake, the vast blue of Lake Van view is dazzling. From the moment we climbed to the castle, this blue giant surrounded by majestic mountains captured our souls. We were feeling like we were by the sea, but not quite. The pieces came together when I checked the altitude on the second day. The lake was at an altitude of 1700 meters! This was the reason for the softness and harshness, cuteness and the scariness at the same time. 

According to the internet,  the shores of the lake, which is not very hot even in summer, serve as the summer resort of the region. We decided to come again in summer and swim in the lake, to enjoy one of the sandy beaches on the Adilcevaz side. There were natural and historical spots left that we did not have the opportunity to visit anyway. 

We will visit Van again to see the damper side of it, especially the cool waterfalls. We also did not have the opportunity to taste the famous pearl mullet this time, neither fresh nor in the impressive dried form we saw in the market. We certainly intend to come back to Van, the pearl of Eastern Anatolia, still behind its shells, silently waiting for the moment when it will shine…

Posted on

Is Rhodes Really a Greek Island?

The Popular Destination

Rhodes is a huge island at the far east of mainland Greece… But it really doesn’t look like a Greek island. When you first step in, Rhodes city welcomes you with its imposing castle, the legacy of the knights,and it is very different from other Greek islands with its environment & ambiance

The center of Rhodes, where the medieval style dominates, has nothing to do with the well known image of the Aegean islands. You’ll seek in vain to see white houses with blue painted window sills. You may find the closest to this postcard-style in Lindos, the southern jewel of the island, but even this place does not fit into that common stereotype. 

The locals of the island, built on the ancient trade routes of the Mediterranean, are a diverse mixture and therefore the culture is very colorful. Moreover, it is a highly preferred destination and attracts flocks from all over the world from giant cruise ships to buzzing air traffic, so the streets are always full of tourists.

There are ferries from Bodrum, Marmaris and Fethiye ports in Turkey. The journey takes between 1.5-3 hours depending on the location. We crossed on foot from Fethiye, which is a quite small port; we had to wait a bit in line, but it was quick. The port of Rhodes itself is very large but has a very disorganized system; Still, we progressed quickly through the gates. In my opinion, there is no need to go to the port early either on departure or return. But just so you know, you pay an extra port tax of up to 20 euros in both directions, in addition to the ticket. 

Where to Stay?

You can stay anywhere on the island; the shores are full of hotels of all kinds. Facilities, beaches and water sports centers are lined up as you exit the airport on the north to the center. A similar variation exists on the southern coast, especially around Lindos. 

Your preferences are important when it comes to choosing a place because there is plenty of variety. It depends on whether you want to dive into the sea as soon as you leave your room / house or feel like a traveler going through the portals of history. Personally, I prefer to stay in the throbbing heart of the places I visit, where I can get a little bit of everything. I get soaked in the culture, from site seeing to shopping, from food to museums. Especially if we are going to stay for a long time, we choose houses where we can get comfortable with our own kitchen. Therefore, we rented a house for a week inside the old town in Rhodes.

We also rented a car to travel all around the island. But beware, only those who live there can permanently park their cars inside the old town walls. So it is not possible to park right in front of your residence while staying in the old city. However, it is very easy to park somewhere nearby and walk a little. 

Alternatively, you can try the area around Lindos to stay somewhere closer to the beach. This area has beautiful beaches, marine life and creamy water. Moreover, Lindos center, built on the old settlement and right next to the acropolis, is a pleasant environment with its white-painted houses and narrow streets that remind you of old Bodrum. 

Choose As You Please

You can go to Rhodes for any combination of culture & history / nature & sea / gastronomy / shopping options. Or if you choose option D like me, that is all of them; here is the list: 

  • Culture & History:
    • Rhodes Castle and Medieval City: Whether you walk around it or wander its streets; By all means, I recommend spending at least one day here. It is a must to sip a caffeinated or soft drink in one of the venues with a courtyard. 
  • Rhodes Quartet: You do not need to allocate the same time to each of these four, but their tickets are sold jointly, so it would be better to buy a combination. It’s all very close anyway.
  • Archaeological Museum: The building itself is exquisite and so are the pieces inside. We finished it in half a day, but you can even spend from an hour to a full day there. Moreover, it has cute gardens and a sweet cafe with delicious portacolapita.
  • Rhodes Cathedral: A short visit is enough, but the place is impressive. The tickets are not sold separately. 
  • Museum of Decorative Artsi: Small but beautiful pieces; a short but satisfying visit. 
  • Rhodes Acropolis Archaeological Park: We went there to complete our pilgrimage, but it wasn’t very impressive. The temple is hardly standing, and other restorations are mediocre. You can walk around in an hour. 
  • Lindos Acropolis and Settlement: The most impressive remains in the island; Although the structures are partially standing and the restoration is still mediocre, the site is breathtaking with its panoramic location. Moreover, the winding road up to it, the ancient ship relief on the walls and the exquisite view of the temple are all worth the climb. Although you can take a donkey ride from the square too, I think it is worth walking. From the temple, you can watch the turquoise waters on one side and the buzzy streets of the ancient settlement on the other. 
  • Kamiros Ancient City: The three sons of the titan god Helios, who is also the symbol of Rhodes in mythology, and his wife Rhodes founded three separate cities on the island. This third one is an archaeological park on the northern shores, about 1 hour away from the center. It is not really exciting like Lindos, which is a town still alive. But it is not as dull as the acropolis of Rhodes; it’s somewhere in between… If you have time, you can spare a few hours or make a stop on the northern route. 
  • monasteries: As in every Greek island, there are many monasteries on the hills overlooking the view. Since we did not come across anything with a particularly historical or structural importance, we chose one at random on our way. From where we parked, we went up a long, steep hill and then climbed a staircase of 300 steps. You will like a place if you make all that effort! In the Virgin Mary Chapel We planted two candles, whistled to the panorama and went back down. 
  • Nature & Sea:
    • Rhodes City Beaches: City beaches, which you can easily reach even by walking, are both practical and enjoyable. We found a very comfortable place to relax on a weekday. The water was great too; it was a great way to enjoy the rest of the day after wandering around the city. The north side may be a little windy and wavy depending on the weather, but once you turn south from the little cape, the sea becomes calm.
    • Anthony Quinn Koyu: I’ve never swum in a natural aquarium like this before! The rocky bay beach gets shaded quickly due to the narrow and steep slopes. But it definitely deserves to be popular at all times of the year. It’s a great place to swim among giant flocks of sea bream and watch all kinds of aquatic creatures. The most expensive sun lounger and umbrella prices on the island are here; but laying a towel on the shore is free.  
  • Tsambika Beach: There are multiple facilities on this long sandy beach. Both the water sports section at one end and the nude beach section at the other are among the options. Although the water basin is not as lively as Anthony Quinn Bay, the marine life is still beautiful. But the water is so soft and feels so good that it made us wonder if we were in a spa. Actually, all the waters of island feel good but this place was the best. 
  • Prasonisi Beach: This is the southernmost tip of the island. Like the north, it has two different shores on both sides; but the contrast is greater here.At the north shores, a wide variety of surfing and windy sports are performed. The south side is quieter and more peaceful, but still offers some pleasant eye candy of surfers.
  • Lindos Beach: This is a place to kill two birds with one stone… We didn’t go down, but it looked nice. Be careful it might be a little crowded; the evenings are calmer. 

Followers of Vedat Milor

I love hunting for local flavors from various sources wherever I go. But the ones I trust most and follow with enthusiasm are Turkish gurme Vedat Milor’s recommendations. Before going to Rhodes, we listed the spots he mentioned. I am adding our own discoveries to it here… 

  • TAMAM Restaurant: This is a wonderful place; Tamam did not only met the expectations we heard from Mr. Vedat, but exceeded them. Green salad, cheese salad, mushrooms with white wine, octopus with orange sauce, lamb and pork… all were excellent flavors.  Moreover, the treats of the owner, Mr. Andreas, to our vegan friends made a great impression on the table. And homemade orange liqueur was the most amazing liqueur I’ve ever tasted! My only reason for deducting one star from the place is the plastic greens on the roof. It’s not obvious from afar, but I wish they were real. Still, it’s the only place on the island we went to eat for the second time!
  • Stegna Kozas: We found legendary flavors of Mr.Vedat’s taste here, too. For example, I have never tasted such a delicious fish egg dish in my life! The calamari with ink sauce and the shellfish plate called “orgasm” were both excellent. Frankly speaking, the fish was a bit too much both in terms of quantity and price; It makes more sense to order more of the appetizers here. It was the most expensive place we went to. We paid 60 E per person, but frankly we ate too much. 
  • Mageirotechneio Taverna Paraga: This is a gem right in the middle of the island, in the mountains at its heart. We were a little late because we spent too much time at the beach. If we had gone earlier we could have enjoyed the magnificent view longer. Moreover, we came across a deer on the road and made eye contact with it. And later a gazelle appeared right in front of uson the road! The drive was long but the taste was definitely worth it. The best lamb tandoori I have ever tasted in my life was here. Everything was delicious, especially their own special bread kinds. Our host was very gracious and sincere. I would come back to Rhodes just to eat here again.
  • Peskesi Greek Cuisine: It is a modest but delicious establishment on the north shore of the city, where you can enjoy watching the sunset. The steamed mussels were amazing. 
  • Zebrano Cafe Restaurant Bar: It’s a magnificent place right next to the museums and attached to the wall of the cathedral. Examining the details of the buildings and sitting in the shadow of the exquisite vines and flowers surrounding them relaxes you so much. We didn’t have the opportunity to eat the first time, but the courtyard was so attractive that we went again. I recommend stopping by, even just for a drink. 

The Island Thing

Rhodes deserves to be an attractive destination… It is perfect for both culture, nature and sea tourism. But that’s exactly why it’s a bit too touristy. There is still the opportunity to escape the crowds and have original experiences. I really recommend going at the end of the season, not in the summer; maybe October. Even then there were times when we were exhausted by the heat. But the planning of the towns allows you to make your own discoveries by frequently escaping to small stress from the main ones even in crowded areas. 

We traveled as a group of girls and Rhodes impressed each of us the most with its water quality! The sea, the river, the water flowing from the shower… The feeling of the water was so soft and relaxing that it amazed us all. After a week on the island, our hair and skin were so beautiful that it was as if we had a spa experience. One of us even said he would settle here just for the water! 

But I cannot say that Rhodes is impressive as a whole spatial experience and it does not fit the classical image of the Greek islands. I might say it is not similar to a fashion show that blows your mind or a giant concert that you sing along or scream to. It’s more like a huge store where you can find stylish pieces that fit you perfectly. Or like the celebrity festival where the idols you admire sing a few songs. Of course, the medieval festival we came across at the weekend during our stay added to the excitement of our adventure… Being in Rhodes in the first week of October is lucky in this respect; you can make a note of that. 

After all, Rhodes is so different that I think it is not right to compare it with other Greek islands. Starting from the castle, which welcomes you with its strong masculine energy as soon as you set foot, we felt like we were in another mainland country throughout our journey rather than a Greek Island fantasy. Even though we had the opportunity to make a roundtrip around it, it was not possible to experience every point in depth of course. However, I can say that it was a a satisfying vacation. 

Posted on

A Ladle in the Sicily Cauldron

On the Trail of Greek Colonies

Since I had traveled extensively on the Italian mainland a long time ago and had no time for Sicily, this Mediterranean island had been on my mind for a while. A friend’s invitation was the occasion; I was in Sicily this summer for three weeks. I traveled the island and some on the heel of the boot in the mainland.

Sicily is one of the distant lands where first Greek colonies were first established. That’s why it is home to the oldest Hellenistic ruins in Europe. Moreover, this huge island, in the middle of the Mediterranean basin, is the playground of power and migration. That’s why it has been a cauldron of civilizations for centuries; similar to our Anatolia. Therefore, we warm up to it immediately… both spiritually and physically!

At the time, there was only a direct flight from Istanbul to Sicily via Catania. But I didn’t visit this city, which is one of the largest cities on the island. I went directly to Syracuse, one of the oldest and most famous settlements. It was also the epicenter of the program I was invited to. The aim of the program was a summer school with the design academy MADE to infuse European and cultural knowledge into American design students. I had the opportunity to accompany the team’s Sicily adventure as an observer upon the invitation of my host, designer and instructor Carey Watters.

Syracuse at night

Living in Syracuse

Since I stayed the longest in Syracuse, the city became like home. Sometimes we made daily trips to various parts of the island from here. Sometimes we let ourselves go to the rhythm of this slow town. We stayed in the old center, which carries the patina of the past on its streets and facades. Ortigia, the island at the tip of the island, is like the historical peninsula of Istanbul.

It’s possible to walk around the entire area connected to the mainland by two side-by-side bridges. In fact, it is recommended; because driving is a problem. Both Sicily’s difficult-to-decipher parking rules and some narrow one-way streets are just like Sultanahmet. After arriving from Catania to Syracuse on a frequently scheduled bus, we took a taxi to our apartment and traveled mostly on foot. Everything is within walking distance anyway. We also took buses from the stop on the edge of the island for group excursions. We only rented a car for a few days to places we specifically wanted to visit.

To those planning a trip to Sicily, no matter which route you follow, I suggest to make a base town and get familiar with its streets, the people and the food. In other words, instead of visiting touristic places one after another, I recommend that you choose a center and synchronize your five senses there. That’s what I did; I’m very happy with the result. Moreover, I managed to see many of the most famous places on the island.

Important note: Time is slow in Sicily. So if you’re in a hurry, it can be hard. Therefore, it’s useful to adjust your rhythm of life accordingly. In fact, their way of working is very similar to ours, the Turks. Both in slowness, lack of planning and the capacity to let go. After all, we have the Mediterranean spirit – children of the same climate.

I am writing my entire Sicily and southern Italy route at the end of the article with map links. You can pick from those… But I would like to note the ones that impressed me the most here:

  • Archaeological Park: In addition to the ruins of the old city, one of the first Greek colonies, there are also traces from the Roman period. But the most impressive part is the quarries that provided resources for the construction of the region and the giant statues placed in this area. The majority of the Igor Mitoraj – a scuptor of Polish origin – collection is located in the Syracuse Archaeological Site and is truly impressive. The works inspired by mythology and especially Icarus are dazzling. Igor Mitoraj’s works, which can be seen in other historical places in Sicily too, are like traces from history.
  • Archaeological Museum: There are many, many displays… Not only from this city but also from other ruins of the island. Frankly, I was not very impressed by the displays of piles, not selecting important ones and highlighting them. But it is very rich in content for those who are interested. Especially the special hall where the most beautiful coins are exhibited is worth seeing.
  • Ortigia Island Streets: I would say at least one day, but the ideal is to experience different routes for a few days. Moreover, there are tiny beaches on the edge of the city where you can dive into the Mediterranean from the rocks.
  • Temple of Apollo: At the entrance of the island, it is the most touristic place; impossible to miss. Make a few prayers; after all he is the prophet god.
  • Fish Market: Seafood, a must for every southern Italy and Sicily themed trip, is on display here. You can taste them all, either as a mixture or one by one. I tried them all, from mixed fries in a cone to a delicatessen plate and I was not disappointed. A part of it is reserved for souvenirs. The prices are normal; more or less the same everywhere. However, the market is open early in the morning and closed in the afternoon every day; don’t miss out. 
  • Puppet Museum: A tiny private museum. Ideal for seeing the history of Syracuse-specific puppet models and its most beautiful examples. There is also a show, but I didn’t watch that.
  • The Fort: I saw it from afar and had the impression that there was no need to visit first. But later when I went in I was glad. It’s has a great view of the island and it is impressive to see the volcanic rocks in the vaults of the high-ceilinged main hall. There are also works of art scattered around; it’s definitely worth spending an hour or two.
  • San Giovanni Catacombs: Another catacomb I thought at first. But I saw these andI suggest you don’t skip them. It’s so big and impressive that we were glad to put on a helmet and do a half-hour tour.
  • Piazza Santa Lucia flea market: I became a flea market enthusiast in my mother’s footsteps; I chase them in every city I go to. But this one is different! So much so that I went two weeks. It is set up on Sunday mornings and closes in the afternoons. There are rare pieces waiting to be discovered here, along with second hand items, antiques, and junk too. I bought Italian original old comic books, a few old pieces of jewelry, and a couple of new dresses. There is old stuff on one side, food on the other, and new materials in a corner like our markets.
  • Madonna delle Lacrime Cathedral: I visited this relatively new, modern cathedral partly out of professional curiosity. It is like a giant monument built in the transition period of Fascist Italy to modern times. I was impressed by the building itself and the feelings felt under that pyramidal structure. It is a matter of taste, a different atmosphere. You can also see the story and memories of one of the Catholic miracles in the small museum underneath.

What To Eat

  • Traditional Sicilian table in an old courtyard, economical menu warm people

Il Cortile di Archimede-Bistrot Ristorante in Ortigia Siracusa 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/pBUPLgsrHvZSwZjE7

  • Taverna Giudecca Food Drink & Shop Wine a Ortigia

A charcuterie plate that is this delicious and aesthetic! The best we’ve eaten. Local wine and beer are both affordable and delicious. We loved it so much we went back the next night. The cuttlefish ink and calamari arancinos are the best I’ve had in Sicily. The plates are satisfying both for the eyes and the stomach.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/8cyfJ9oku2ovcYdNA

  • Trattoria La Foglia

A wonderful venue with great attention to detail, delicious food and table wine. A bit expensive compared to others

https://maps.app.goo.gl/hpKzoja3tuvxb4GK6

  • For Arancino, the Sicilian street food, this is the place:

Antica Giudecca – Pizzeria, Biscotti, Arancini, Take Away

Think of it like a bakery, it has two tables but it is actually for take out

https://maps.app.goo.gl/W5f6yzhNCw1kP8Md8

Ice Cream Shops:

  • Gelateria Belfiore Gelato & Cioccolato 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/wCh6Y5EnKfMuqLgt5

  • Viola Espresso Bar

https://maps.app.goo.gl/9encpDhUxbFZvoo27

Jewels of Sicily

I will leave the most cosmopolitan, most vibrant city of the island, Palermo, for last, as we did on the route. Apart from that, here are some of the touristic spots:

Taormina

Built on a very steep slope, the city is one of the most touristic places in Sicily. Both the neatly restored Greek/Roman Theater and the ruins around it and the streets with preserved buildings are truly impressive. But neither the pedestrian street Corso Umberto, adorned with luxury brands, nor the balconies on the facades were enough to make me ecstatic. Yes, you should visit it, but a day will suffice. I especially found the crowded pedestrian traffic & the hot sun repulsive. The gardens of Villa Comunale di Taormina, where we took refuge while trying to escape from this chaos, were a heavenly breeze. It is both adorned with Roman ruins and surrounded by wonderful gardens and the view is magnificent.

The bakery-like cafe that we went to did not disappoint us. We ate our Arancinos here; we liked the spinach and cheese one the most: Rosticceria Da Cristina 2 – https://maps.app.goo.gl/AdqrKJGLmDWdgR1H6 

There is also a cable car from the hills of Taormina to the beach. We saw it when we drove down the winding roads and reached the seaside. But there is a close island across from one of its few famous beaches that you can walk to: There is also a chapel on this island of Isola Bella. The water is cool and rocky, there is a public beach and facilities right by the sea, but a bit expensive.

Agrigento – Valley of Temples

Don’t leave Sicily without seeing this Valley of Temples. The city Agrigento, the richest of the Greek colonies of the period, built majestic temples on a hill, seven of which have been restored and can be visited. It is impossible not to be impressed as you proceed along the ancient road, spiced by the fallen Icarus, another work by Igor Mitoraj. We also realized how magnificent, rich, deep and ancient our Anatolian heritage is. As we do in every European trip, the fact that Turkey’s cultural and natural heritage does not hold the importance, attention and interest it deserves makes our hearts ache.

Villa Romana del Casale

Villa Romana del Casale is a Roman mansion that has been preserved as a whole since it was buried underground due to a landslide and it has been restored beautifully. We do have a lot of mosaics in Turkey too but it’s with the visit Especially bikini girls are very popular and famous. But I liked the big hall where mythological stories and eccentric animal mosaics are.

Etna National Park

When else can you come this close to an active volcano? It is a rare piece of nature and Etna National Park has wonderful trails where you can walk with well-equipped guides. Both the landscape is legendary and the shades on the earth from different Etna eruption periods are fascinating. It has a unique climate, so I recommend that you go prepared. There are also cafeterias and gşft shops selling volcanic stone ornaments. I regret not buying more of the red 70% alcohol  Etna liqueurs, what a delicious drink!

Noto

Another rich city… But this one is not so ancient. I recommend to set aside a day to wander the streets and visit the inside of a few Baroque architecture’s jewel-like buildings and mansions. The day we visited, a classic car tour was passing by here! What fun and commotion was watching the aunties and uncles in these vehicles straight out of the movies wave goodbye to us! We were lucky in both timing and finding a delicious break too…

Legendary arancinos are here: I loved the pistachio and cheese one… Rosticceria Palermitana Arancina Planet – https://maps.app.goo.gl/Gv99U1e6jV2nx7FP6 

The best ice cream I’ve ever had was here: Try the ricotta and pistachio one… Caffè Sicilia – https://maps.app.goo.gl/bax5kVj3sKRDEokv6 

Modica

This small city was founded at a junction where three deep valleys meet inland. You can climb the stairs or the steep slopes and view the baroque architecture and the valley. It is also home to Italy’s oldest cold-pressed chocolate makers and a chocolate museum. Although I can’t say it’s the best chocolate I’ve ever tasted you can shop for quality delicacies here: Antica Dolceria Bonajuto – https://maps.app.goo.gl/KyXWCRmxsvNeLmEY8  I ​​think half a day is enough for the city.

Marzamemi

This place is actually a small fishing town; but it’s famous for the fish restaurants around the tiny square that was preserved. We had dinner with excellent fish, shrimps and calamari pasta at the restaurant recommended: Al Boccone – https://maps.app.goo.gl/cJbZX7dMA7JKcnEJ8 

The City of Palermo

As I said, it’s the most cosmopolitan, most vibrant city on the island… Staying in the heart of Palermo, right in the middle of that famous marketplace allowed us to experience the chaos to the fullest. We came to the Chiesa del Carmine Maggiore Monastery guesthouse with the hope of an economical and clean accommodation. Monastery accommodations are a method widely used in Europe, especially in Italy. Usually, they do not upset the guests who have low comfort expectations, but we were a little bit disappointed this time. The building was shabby, the sheets were very thin, the hygiene was mediocre, and the comfort level was below average. Moreover, the market that setup at around 6 in the morning roamed until the evening with shouting, sometimes music and dancing. So I can’t say I would recommend it, but it was a different experience. When you left the room to go to the courtyard, the only area with internet reception, the picturesque beauty and serenity of the environment did carry a natural sense of enlightenment. It also had  a direct connection to the church and the bell tower. A breakfast consisting of croissants, jam, yogurt and coffee was not satisfactory. That’s why we preferred to eat from the vendors and shops in the market.

We took the Street Food Tour on the first day and ate the local flavors with a guide. During the half-day walk, we ate snacks standing or occasionally sitting at the famous places. We spent the rest of our time shopping at the market. I have to mention that the ricotta cheeses are legendary!

Of course, we visited most of the top tourist spots of Palermo. I am sharing them in the location list. But the Norman Palace and the famous chapel inside fascinated me the most… I have never seen such beautiful and magnificent mosaics. Moreover, the workmanship of the muqarnas decoration on the ceiling is a show

The archaeological museum and private museums are also beautiful, a better exhibition environment than the one in Syracuse. The buildings are also very enjoyable, and you can feel life in ancient times in the displays. I recommend seeing the giant Palermo Cathedral at night, especially for travelers who are tired of seeing baroque architecture; you can climb up to its illuminated roof and view the city. There is also a free special exhibition called No Mafia Museum; you can see the history of the mafia and its victims.

In short, although it did not astonish me visually and spiritually as other cities in Sicily and the chaotic energy, similar to Istanbul, is a bit tiring. But I would like to go to Palermo again to see the places  I missed & walk around the streets. Unfortunately the streets are very dirty, there is garbage everywhere. Palermo is also an impressive stop in Sicily. Moreover, there are now direct flights!

The Cauldron Issue

In fact, in the last part of the three-week route, we also visited the southern parts of the Italian mainland for a few days before going to Palermo. This land is also magnificent and consists of regions with their own characteristics. It is possible to go from the northern shores to the southern Mediterranean waters, from the west to the mountains of the east in a matter of hours. The atmosphere and energy of each is different. There are also plenty of ghost towns; the ones where the legends of buying a house for 5/10 Euros are famous. But I will not go into the details of this part of the trip; both because I do not feel I have done it justice to it. But I will share our route. I definitely recommend each of them.

Now, about the ladle of Sicily… In short, this rare piece of land that has been the cauldron of civilization in the Mediterranean does deserve your time. Whether you like history, food or nature, it is beautiful with a diverse culture. Although I stayed quite long, I could not quite succeed in visiting everywhere. But it was wonderful to be the ladle that tasted this cauldron of experience. I’ll go again!

Sicily May 2024 Route

Syracusa

Taormina 

Noto

Modica

Marzamemi

Agrigento – Valley of Temples 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/LPGY5Ku35jZyEPgQ6

Villa Romana del Casale

https://maps.app.goo.gl/uKwB3YjQt2RuYSFGA

Etna National Park 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/wmDCA6NGMci7VGTH7

Palermo 

Eating Out: 

Il Cambisone – https://maps.app.goo.gl/cSsxaTX65gVSzRsp9

Cefalu

Mainland: 

Cosenza

https://maps.app.goo.gl/1aNijYWHCd7j3Ewy5

Lago Arvo – Dağ Gölü & Lorica

https://maps.app.goo.gl/YNM3NmmBKZ5uAwkQ9

Rocceletta – Basilica di Santa Maria della Roccella

https://maps.app.goo.gl/dFt5okADEhiRp8Gb8

Stilo – Cattolica di Stilo 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/JkQV1dcszvj2EmS59

Tropea – Capo Vaticano 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/Uu2oFb8Q4uMUfiDk8

Pentedattilo (ghost town)

https://maps.app.goo.gl/VAvz5cKLDXQw5STU8

We could not go but we wanted to:

  • Ragusa
  • Agrigento Museo archeologico regionale Pietro Griffo
  • Selinunte
  • Sciacca
  • Lido Scala dei Turchi
  • Capo Bianco
  • Trapani
  • San Vito Lo Copo
  • Scopello
  • Terrasini
  • Reggio Calabria – Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Reggio Calabria
Posted on

My Acquired Hometown: Eski Doğanbey

The Hometown Issue…

My acquired  hometown: this is the personal meaning of Old Doğanbey Village for me. Because, like many other people living in this part of the world, I am a nomad. I was not born here, my parents are not from here. In fact, I did not grow up here… Or rather, my childhood was not here; but this land has been home to my heart. I did not go to school here, but here I read the great novels that left traces on my heart. I did not fall in love here, but I cried out many of my love aches to this wind, I left my pain to this sky. I didn’t get married here, but I wore out my loves here. I didn’t work here, but I found inspiration here; I wrote and drew here. I even worked for this place; with the Old Doğanbey Friends, I tried so that our village would not be spoiled and not fall victim to contempt, indifference, or profiteering. I mean, I didn’t grow up here in the sense you know, but I grew up with this sense of belonging. Here, I inherited both the healing energy that penetrated the soul of the village from generations ago and the home my mother created. Now I am trying to live worthy of this legacy and share it with other souls who can see, hear and feel it.

To summarize briefly…

Eski Doğanbey is a unique place where people connect with themselves and nature. Here you can feel the energy of people who lived in harmony with the land, grew olives on the hills or fished in the bay. The first traces of the settlement dates back to 7th century B.C. but the more well-known part of its history is the stone houses and terraced olive groves built by the Greek inhabitants. The old name of the village “Domatia” means rooms in old Greek. Eski Doğanbey is an ancient Greek village whose original texture has been preserved. In other words, it is an extraordinary place with its old genuine stone houses, some of which have regained their former glory, while others are still in ruins.

When we look at recent history, with the migration that started in 1924, the original Greek inhabitants were replaced by Turkish families from Thrace and the Balkans. The new villagers, who made their living mostly by fishing from the sea and agriculture from the plains instead of olives and olive oil, left the breezy foothills of the mountain and established a new settlement 2 km downstream with the support of the state: Doğanbey. Some of the structures were battered to search for gold, some for materials for new houses, and some succumbed to the cruelty of the time. Except for a few families staying in the village, life fell into a long silence. It sprouted again in the late 80s early 90s with the rediscovery of those who fled the city.

Eski Doğanbey Village is a quiet corner close to the center of both the old world and the new Aegean. Here you can retreat to solitude or socialize easily in nearby places such as Kusadasi, Didim, İzmir or Bodrum. Located within the borders of Dilek (Büyük Menderes Delta) National Park in Söke district of Aydın, the old village is located at the foot of Mykale (also called Dilek / Samsun) mountains, 2 km up from Yeni Doğanbey Village; overlooking the magnificent view of one of the largest deltas of the Aegean Sea..

My Old Doğanbey Story…

My past with the village begins in my middle school years… Since my classmate’s family were interested in traveling, cultural heritage and such hidden gems, they discovered the Old Doğanbey Village in 1989. We are on holiday in Didim with my yet unbroken family at that time. Being aware of this discovery, my mother, who is fond of “shabby” in her own words, and my father a “bohemian at heart”, included the village in the excursion to the Miletus city. Since there was no public transportation or even asphalt roads to teh village at that time; we climbed the slope on the back of a tractor. But Eski Doğanbey was love at first sight for all of us individually. Guided by one of the families who did not move to the new settlement, my parents bought one of the ruins with a loan. 

We could afford to have our house renovated a few years later, when my parents get divorced and my mother can save money with a second job after retirement. Then I’m in high school; I can hold a hammer, trowel, sandpaper; therefore, in the summers, I work in the construction. Our nest is in a narrow street just behind the village square in the old center of the village, which I call the “European Side”. We make our home with our own labor over a long period of time. We transform the barn downstairs into a living room, adding a bathroom and a room upstairs, and renovating the kitchen, which we still use from the courtyard.

Meanwhile, I blow the excitements, disappointments and cries of revenge of my first loves to these mountains. When I go swimming in the sea near the hot water spring on the Karina road and get sick, I swallow vitamins and antibiotics in the fountain of the village in secret. I learn the results of the summer university exams in that house; My dream is architecture and my construction site experience is already in place. I discharge the pains of being eighteen two hours away in Bodrum with my friends and then read “The Name of the Rose” on the ridges of the Samsun mountains. I come every summer while I am studying at the university and I also attempt to write my master’s thesis about here. Lots of sketches, detailed images of the village in old films; whatever you want is in my archives.

As the years pass, I get caught up in the beat of business life; I set my heart in other places during the holidays. But I accompany my mother’s arrivals in the spring and returns to the city in the fall. My mother becomes a part of the group with the neighbors, founding an association for the revival of the village. The association is established in order to protect the village, to make life easier and coordinate the services that did not reach the village at that time. My retired banker mother works as a treasurer for years there; they do a lot of work, from the construction of old-fashioned roads to bringing water from the mountain. We have senior architects, urban and regional planners, academics, art historians, artists, and various intellectual neighbors among the village residents, so I am assigned to run errands. 

Over time, my mother’s health deteriorates; the comfort of the house, which we cannot reach by car, and the village slopes challenge it. When a house that can be reached by car and where my mother can live without climbing the stairs is available on the opposite side of the village which we call the “Anatolian Side”; she rolls up her sleeves. We sell our old house and build a new home in this one. Again we collaborate; our neighbor Architect Sibel Gürsel and her husband Oğuz Söğüt help out. I’m also an architect now; so I support remotely as much as I can. This way, my mother does not leave the village, although she is able to stay less each year. The last summer she visits, she calls my father to visit… And twenty years later, the three of us breathe the familiar breeze together for the first and last time.

The next year, I bid farewell to both my parents to other lands and come back here to mourn. Then, I realize that I have always burried my heartaches here; when my heart was hurt, I always fled here. Whatever the wounds, my heart always healed here and new seeds of joy sprouted here, I bloomed here.

That’s why Eski Doğanbey later became my hometown. Like those before me, I may migrate one day; but I wish it will always stay this beautiful.

Tips for those who want to come to the village:

Eski Doğanbey is half an hour away from Söke center, 1.5 hours away from İzmir by car, and 2 hours away from Bodrum. It is recommended to use a private vehicle for transportation. However, it is also possible to use public transport from Söke bus station. You only have to tell the driver that you will go up to Old Doğanbey when you get on the minibuses that say Doğanbey.

It is advantageous to use private transport to get around, as the village is located in an unpopulated natural reserve area. The village is located on hiking trails where there are bird watching opportunities as well as other natural beauties. Büyük Menderes Delta is not suitable for swimming, it is a wetland where mostly fishing is done. However, it is a 10-minute drive to Karina, located at the far end of the delta, where you can swim and enjoy fresh fish caught by local fishermen.

You can also go to one of the many exceptional beaches with clear waters and beautiful natural views of Dilek Peninsula National Park with a journey of approximately 45 minutes – 1 hour. The beach side of Dilek Peninsula National Park, of which Eski Doğanbey is also located within the boundaries of, is on the northern side of the peninsula. There is a walking trail of about 20 km from our village to the beaches, but there is no vehicle road. The entrance is closer to Kuşadası and you pay for access to the beaches during the day (vehicle or pedestrian) and accommodation is prohibited.

There are very important traces of ancient civilizations in and around the Büyük Menderes Delta… Ancient cities such as Priene, Miletos, Apollon Temple & Didima, Magnesia, Ephesus and the House of Virgin Mary are among the many attractions nearby. I will also mention some of them in my articles…

When I can’t go to the village, our house is rented in two entries: the big house as the “White Mansion” and the small house as the “Tiny Stone House” in Airbnb. Thus, I can afford for the upkeep and the maintenance of the houses. Moreover, I usually make friends with the guests when I find the opportunity; these friendships open new doors to other worlds for me. Here are the details:

White Mansion: https://www.airbnb.com.tr/rooms/2680883?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=14e5eebc-0115-4e47-b520-100ddc108011

Tiny Stone House:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/50408309?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=162dfc7f-41c3-4484-8aa8-259960816837

You can read more detailed information about the village here:

The closest beach to the village: Karina… With my words!

A detailed and beautiful article written by Arzu Aksaya in 2021, on her blog page Yolcukal.com:

https://www.neredekal.com/blog/sokede-sakin-ve-tatli-bir-huzur-eski-doganbey-koyu/

By Zeynep Atılgan Boneval, the illustrated Journey Therapy blog post:

https://www.yolculukterapisi.com/doganbey

A short but concise presentation of the Municipality of Söke, Eski Doğanbey:

https://www.soke.bel.tr/tarihi-merkez/eski-doganbey-koyu/12

Eski Doğanbey in Sour Dictionary

https://eksisozluk1923.com/doganbey-koyu–1919970?p=1