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Intellectual Calories: Eskişehir & Afyon 

Target Phrygia…

I had stopped in Afyon for a thermal hotel break years ago; but I hadn’t seen much of anything other than the water. Of course, I had heard of the sausage and the cream, but I was not aware that the city was a gastronomic paradise. I didn’t know about its historical and natural treasures at all. 

That is until I visited Afyon last autumn. When we decided to stay there on route from south to north with my companion, my view of the city completely changed. First, the rich texture and delicious flavors of Afyon center seduced me. Then, as I headed north, I was blown away by its nature, rock formations and the ruins of Phrygia, one of the ancient civilizations of Anatolia. 

We continued our journey without exploring it in sufficient detail because we didn’t have time then. But I had already decided to go back with my girls. We looked forward to visiting the valleys in winter and immersing ourselves in the warm thermal waters. We were finally able to schedule a weekend in February. We made a 3-day plan, exploring the route to and from Afyon as well. But it is also possible to squeeze the trip into two days by traveling at night or skipping a stop.

History & Art in Eskişehir…

I had been to Eskişehir several times. In fact, once I was a guest of Yılmaz Büyükerşen, who was the last Mayor at the time. We were hosted in a wonderful tour of the city with his guidance. Later, I had the opportunity to visit for different purposes too. But there were a few pieces missing… The focus of my recent interest, history, the Archaeological Museum; newly built OM, Odunpazarı Museum of Modern Art and the Exhibition of “Calm Lands” 

So Eskişehir was the first stop of our route with an intense cultural and artistic agenda. We had a great time as we were all harmonious and focused on the börek, ravioli and halva!. We decided to start with the Archeology Museum before our stomachs started growling. Then, we left the car at the multi-storey car park in Odunpazarı and completed the remaining route on foot. 

  • Eskişehir Archeology Museum: This is an small museum with important pieces in the center of the city. The entrance is free with a Museum Card. Or you can pick it up at the door or from the app. The modern building design is very beautiful; especially the sunny big hall where the sarcophagi are located. But the displays are a bit dated; lighting and signage could be much better. However, you can get a pretty good idea of ​​the heritage of the region with a short tour. 
  • Meal Break: We chose any of the Tatar Böreği shops with high scores near the square and sat down. We ordered pastry and ravioli. Although the pastries were not as crispy as we hoped they were delicious. The manti was good, but the one bite size spices had no taste. We left the halva shops with delicious fig and walnut summer halva in our bags. The real surprise came when we pursued the smells coming from the bakery next door… Yüce Işıklar Bakery Products The fresh hot bagels we bought were so delicious that we ate them all even after all that pastry!
  • Eldem Art Area – Calm Lands Exhibition: One of my friends from high school is a versatile artists Evrim Kavcar and one is a plant painter Deniz Bozok. I had also met Kıymet Daştan thanks to Evrim. I ahd wanted to visit this gallery featuring works in the theme Calm Lands. So I dragged the team with me; and I’m glad I did… Located in a historical mansion complex, in Eldem Art Space we were moved by the wonderful artwork. Moreover, the place itself is beautifully restored & designed. It was an enjoyable visit that appealed to all the senses. 
  • Kurşunlu Social Complex: We entered the courtyard of the social complex, thinking that a short break would be enough since we had seen many similar places. But with its serene and lively atmosphere, the meerschaum exhibition and shops behind the mosque kept us there. While we admired the magnificent artisanship of the old, we were sad to see the souvenirs in the shops didn’t even come close. 
  • OM, Odunpazarı Museum of Modern Art: This special museum, which I was curious about both in terms of its architecture and its collection, was our last stop in Eskişehir. The entrance fee of 120 TL seemed reasonable; We bought our tickets and started touring from the lowest level. Particularly the wood-clad tower is the signature of the stylistic building. We took a group picture, went up to and viewed the complete collection. Some of the works were very impressive. I think it’s a must-see place. 

Phrygia from Eskişehir to Afyon…

We were very excited to visit the Phrygian monuments, which were the focus of our trip, guided by my archaeology student friend. We set off from Eskişehir early and targeted the monuments area located in the middle of the distance to Afyon. We set the route to Yazılıkaya & Midas monuments, which are technically within the borders of Eskişehir but 1 hour away from Afyon. While passing through the magnificent snowy slopes, we scouted for other monuments in the region.

We managed to visit most of the ruins we targeted around Yazılıkaya, tracing a slight arc as we traveled from north to south. Our journey was brightened with little surprises such as frozen tiny streams and storks’ nests. The sun was setting when we completed our route and set off towards Afyonkarahisar centre. 

  • Gerdekkaya Monument: Our Phrygian tour started with this special rock tomb located at the northeastern end of the Monuments area. There was a bride and groom photo shoot when we arrived; it’s a truly photogenic area. 
  • Küçük Yazılıkaya Monument: This tiny monument, also known as the Areyastis Monument, is one of the rare written monuments left from the Phrygians. We think that Cybele, the most important goddess of this fertile land, was worshiped here. We parked the car by the road, next to an information sign, and walked a bit slightly uphill. The energy of the tomb was so intense, and the rock surface was so impressive that it made us improvise a prayer. 
  • Yazılıkaya / Midas Monument: This is one of the most important ruins in the region. The giant mausoleum, one of the rare Phrygian inscribed ruins, and the rock settlements are side by side. Moreover, you reach it by passing through a picturesque village. We also saw some cultural tourism signs in this village with stone buildings; the settlement texture was so intact that it showed the place was evidently been inhabited for thousands of years. We parked at the top of the village and climbed to the monument on a slightly sloped dirt road. And it drew us in with its magnificent view and majestic stance. We sat facing the valley for a while and enjoyed the idyllic view. We played with snowballs and we talked a little about Phrygia and its myths. 
  • Yapildak Asarkale: Unfortunately, we could not approach our next target, Asarkale, by vehicle. The ground was already muddy in places; We parked where the stream froze over and tried the dirt road. But we couldn’t find a proper path, so we walked around and took pictures from a distance.
  • Lion Temple & Seljuk Tomb: When we reached the Lion Temple, we were extremely happy to have extended our way there. First of all, the rock tomb turned out to be much more impressive and important than we expected. The temple area, where Cybele was previously worshiped and overlooking the sunrise, was probably used as a tomb during the Roman period. Based on the inscription, it is thought to be the tomb of the heroic General Solon, who captured the Anatolian cities in the Roman period. It was also wonderful to wander around the remains called Yarım Konak, which was probably used since ancient times. It was also gorgeous to view at the valley and Kümbet Village from the top. 

Gastro-Afyon

We arrived in Afyon center at dusk. Our goal was to fill eat before relaxing in our rental house with a thermal pool. Master Salim was our target. The meat dish with prunes and the eggplant pastry were amazing; but you can taste a variation of the food by ordering the chef’s plate. Of course, their creamy desserts are legendary… After we got over the shock that there was no tea service, we had our desserts to goso we could eat them at home. 

We did the food & beverage shopping in these places:

IN AFYON:

  • Master Salim: The right address for Ottoman cuisine and delicious desserts. It can be a little crowded on the weekend.
  • Altınay Turkish Delight: The shop right at the beginning of Uzun Çarşı; it’s impossible to miss. The magnificent creamy delight was out of stock so we bought the one with walnuts; it was also incredibly delicious. 
  • Butcher Celal Sausages: We bought our sausages from here. I also bought bacon and roasted meat; but those were not as perfect as what I got from Kastamonu. 
  • Historical TaşHan: Taşhan is ideal if you want to take a tea or coffee break and shop from local artisans in a historical building. 

IN GAZLIGÖL 

  • Aksu Oven: The most delicious poppy seed bun I’ve ever eaten in my life. Moreover, we learned here that simit comes in many varieties; the ones with cream, cheese, butter and tahini are legendary. 
  • Ünallar Butcher: This is also a recommended sausage spot. 
  • Manufacturer Şekerci Nuri: Real buffalo yoghurt and cream is here. But you need to order in advance. Mr. Nuri and his family make shipments to Istanbul twice a week. 

Afyon & Phrygian Valley

With the pride of having made a quick introduction to Phrygia, we decided to enjoy the next day by exploring the other targets leisurely. And afterwards, we took a tea break at Emre Lake at the spot where the movie “AROG” was shot. Then we visited the old Afyon city center. Our only regret wasforgetting that the Afyonkarahisar Archeology Museum was closed on Monday.We wanted to see it so much we would have made the schedule different to include the museum earlier.

  • Ayazini Rock Church: Located right at the entrance of the Phrygian Valley, centered on Ayazini, this rock-carved church was a good start to the Sunday route and the trip. The light was gorgeous early in the morning. You can also walk to the lion tomb and rock settlements from here. 
  • Ayazini Metropolis Multi-storey Settlement: Introduced as the world’s first apartment building, this multi-storey settlement carved into rocks is quite interesting. It is already located at the beginning of the valley. 
  • Ayazini Necropolis: Ayazini is a settlement that was home to people for thousands of years and still is. The necropolis located at the entrance of this village, intertwined with rock settlements, continues to be used as a cemetery today. The landscape we pass by, with rock tombs in the background and tombstones in the front, tells us about the continuity of civilization and that death is a part of life. 
  • Ayazini Village: It was lovely with its preserved texture, modest but cute buildings, streets decorated with evil eye beads or lavender, living spaces combined with settlements carved into rocks, and most of all, its surprising squares and courtyards. After wandering around quite a lot, we sat down for breakfast at a small family owned cafe. Everything with clotted cream, tahini molasses, eggs and sausage was great at Ayazma Cave Cafe Restaurant. They also surprised us with their delicious poppy paste. After the meal, we visited the shops and sat at another cafe that impressed us with its courtyard full of antiques in the shade of mulberries: Dutlu Bahçe is in Frighan Ayazini We drank sahlep with poppy seeds.  
  • Avdalaz Castle: These settlements carved into the rocks here were easy to defend and therefore frequently used for military purposes. Avdalaz Castle is one of these castles, which is very different from the standard castles we know and looks like cliffs with gullies from the outside. If you are not afraid of heights, you can climb up into it.
  • Aslantaş Yılantaş Ruins: It was a very short but enjoyable visit. You can imagine the grandeur of the monument that once stood there from the size of the large stone ruins with lion carvings. Now there are very few pieces left; still, it’s is ideal for the lion’s mouth pose! 
  • Maltaş Ruins: In front of this rock tomb monument, newly landscaped, there is a sacred area where Cybele was worshiped. Thanks to the new arrangement, it was very impressive to sit on the steps and stare at the traces left from thousands of years ago. As we approached the ruins, we saw a magnificent bird with giant wings. We guessed that this domestic bird was a red hawk. 
  • Cold Vadisi Tabiat Parki and King’s Road: As we moved north from the Göynüş valley and approached this natural park, Cappadocia-like rock formations began to appear. When we climbed the winding road to the entrance of the park, there was a huge valley view in front of us. We proceeded a little further to see our target, the King’s Road. We parked our car at an intersection and followed the brown signs until we reached the ruins of the ancient road. It is a small part of an important route that actually covers most of Western Anatolia and bears the traces of thousands of years of caravans, military and civilian traffic. It’s a great spot to imagine the busiest time of this ancient highway, carved here layer by layer by the wheels of horse carriages. 
  • Emre Lake and Kırkmerdiven Rocks: The beauty of this tiny lake welcomes the view of natural formations around it. Some parts of the movie “AROG” was also shot here. Therefore, it has become a tourist attraction; but it is a modest place consisting of mules you can ride, set pieces and a man selling tea. Still, it is a nice stop… Moreover, the layer of ice on the surface of the water provided for more entertainment; especially when the wind blew and the ice started to pile up towards the shore.
  • Afyonkarahisar Castle: We were wrong to assume we could easily climb up to this hawk’s nest castle perched on top of giant rocks in the heart of the city. More precisely, we miscalculated… We thought we would approach by car and leave at sunset. It turns out that it is a castle that can be climbed on foot with almost 700 steps. Moreover, these steps could freeze in winter. We did not risk it and we wandered around the streets instead.
  • Afyon Streets and Houses: We had read that old Afyon houses were being restored on route to the Afyon Grand Mosque. But personally, I was a little disturbed by the lack of care I saw like in many mass restoration projects in our country. On one hand, I understand the economic and logistical difficulty of transforming the fabric of such a large area. On the other hand, I feel these buildings, which lack original details and experiences, are insincere, depthless and unreal. Moreover, I think this method is not sustainable; because they lose their originality and cease to be an attraction. Still, it’s much better than letting a city be completely destroyed and occupied by concrete blocks. Maybe it’s my extreme architectural sensitivity; it’s a subjective issue. 
  • Afyonkarahisar Grand Mosque: I always try to see the grand mosques of the cities I visit; especially if it is a Seljuk work like this. Afyon Grand Mosque did not disappoint; it actually fascinated me. I think it is one of the most beautiful buildings of the period, both technically and aesthetically, with its magnificent roof supported by giant wooden poles, muqarnas decorations on the tops of the columns, and its modest but impressive proportions. A must see!

Return Route Kütahya

Since we couldn’t visit the Afyon Museum, we set back home early… We had already targeted Kütahya to see somewhere new. Since we had plenty of time, we decided to visit a few places in here. Unfortunately, there are not so many options! There are only a handful of places to visit in the center you can cover an hour or two:

Ultimately, Afyon is a great destination for a 3 or 2-day trip… It appeals to every sense. History, nature and food stimulates every sense. Especially if you have access to thermal healing waters where you stay. But be careful, there are so many intellectual calories here!!!

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BEARING PORTUGAL

Izmir – Lisbon – Porto Triangle

A friend of mine who lives in Izmir found a cheap ticket from Pegasus Airlines’ Izmir-Lisbon flights. She called me at the beginning of summer to ask if I would come to Lisbon in November with her. Of course I wanted to… Besides, one of my close friends lives in Porto; I’ve been wanting to visit for a while now. We aimed for both cities – Lisbon & Porto for 5 days. 

As November approached, plans became clearer; I turned my trip to Portugal from Izmir into an Aegean vacation in fall and arrived in Izmir after some traveling. Meanwhile, I clarified the logistics and date details of the Porto visit. We decided to transfer from the airport to the terminal as soon as we landed, go to Porto by bus, stay for 2 nights and spend the remaining time in Lisbon. 

Apparently, we had made a good decision… First of all, Izmir airport international terminal is very comfortable! There is no trace of the crowd and chaos of Istanbul. From transportation to parking, from security at the airport to terminal access, everything went smoothly. So much so that I decided to make plans abroad from İzmir more often! 

It was also very productive to go to Lisbon with an early morning flight. We easily went to the bus terminal by metro from the airport (only 2 stops). We could also go by train, but the buses had more frequent schedules and were much cheaper. At the terminal, we bought tickets for the bus an hour later, took a breather, and had the opportunity to drink our coffee and eat a bite. After a three-hour journey, our bus arrived at Porto bus terminal on time. Thus, we arrived in the city before dark. 

Porto…

We stayed here for 1.5 days and 2 nights. It wasn’t really enough and we decided to come back later. It was also smart to do Porto first because it is a much quieter city. It was an easy adjustment to Portugal from here.

Porto stops:

  • Louis I Bridge – A pearl bridge of the industrial period, the work of the architect of the Eiffel Tower.  I would definitely recommend walking on it if your fear of heights allows; An amazing view and a great feeling.
  • Porto Sao Bento – Train station in the center of the city. Please don’t ignore it; the blue wall designs with wonderful stories are legendary. 
  • Chapel of Souls – One of the most elegant blue and white fairy-tale churches. 
  • Bolhão Market – Both its architecture and the market inside definitely deserve a visit. 
  • Church of Saint İldefonso – Another Blue church
  • Clérigos Tower – A tower, one of the symbols of the city
  • Majestic Café – This is the exact definition of sophisticated cafe. It is a unique place, from its finely crafted decoration to its elegant service.  They say it is Europe’s first cafe; even if it’s not it’s with the visit.
  • Livraria Lello – The legendary bookstore that inspired the Harry Potter novels and where the author frequently visited while she lived in Porto. Be careful, there is an entrance fee and there is always a queue. 
  • Ferreira Borges Market – Another industrial period building with a market. When we visited, there was second hand sales of clothes and accessories for Christmas. 
  • Ribeira Pier – It is a must to wander around the riverside and have some fun. 
  • R. das Flores – Much like Istiklal Street in Taksim, a street that hosts the mansions of Porto’s former rich people. There are many beautiful design shops.
  • Foz de Douro – The summer resort of the rich people of Old Porto. It is now a stylish, pleasant and quiet oceanside neighborhood. You must visit just to see the facades of the magnificent houses and to smell, hear and even touch the ocean. 

No time left, next time:

Lisbon…

Lisbon stops:

There are many magnificent churches in the city. We created our travel route with the most essential ones. We also visited some of the places we encountered on our route. I wrote down the ones that left an impression on me; but most of them are quite impressive. 

  • Lisbon Cathedral – A truly imposing and impressive building. 
  • Church of Saint Dominic – It is a very special place that has survived earthquakes and fires and bears the traces of these disasters on its walls. It should be visited just to see the traces of history. 
  • Carmo Nunnery – Be sure to go to look at the sky from the ceiling that is no longer in place, watch the magnificent architecture of its time, and visit the small but impressive exhibition on the side of the museum.
  • Monument to the Discoveries – Monument to Portuguese seafaring explorers. This is a modern piece of art, but the Belem region is the ideal point to start the route. Not to mention a wonderful view. 
  • White Tower – A lace-like defense building, half an hour away from the city center. One of Lisbon’s pilgrimage spots.
  • Jerónimos Monastery and Archaeological museum – Another pilgrimage place coming back from Belem. But the Archeology museum is closed for 1 year until 2025. I will come back for this 
  • Calouste Gulbenkian Museum & Gulbenkian Modern Art Center (CAM) – Private collection and modern art museum belonging to the foundation of the Istanbul-born, Ottoman citizen Armenian couple Gulbenkian family. Traces of the richness from the oil from the beginning of the century belonging to the man who later became a British citizen, known as Mr. 5%, can be seen in this legendary private collection. The building with its incredibly peaceful Zen gardens and the wonderful exhibition spaces are beautiful, as are the pieces themselves. You should definitely go, even a half day is ideal for those who love modern art. 

Shopping:

  • Flea Market (Campo de Santa Clara) – flea market (tuesday & saturday)
  • Santa Clara Market – a stable marketplace, when we visited it was a record and music market
  • LxMarket – Market with designer, craft and second-hand shops. A wonderful environment in old industrial building zone spread over a wide area with plenty of cafe & restaurant options. Creativity is oozing everywhere and there was live music all weekend too. 
  • R. Augustus – Like our Istiklal Street, it is the liveliest street of the city, closed to traffic, with all kinds of shops, food and beverages. 
  • Figueira Square & Rossio Square – Two squares in the city center, huge and beautiful. Starting from the end of November, Christmas markets satisfied our eyes and our appetite.  
  • Oikos Space – Meeting and Cooperation Platform – It is a shop selling designer and handicraft products in a very unique and delightful environment, in the laundry building of a former women’s prison (maybe it was also the kitchen, I’m not sure). Worth visiting just for fun too.
  • São Pedro de Alcântara Viewpoint – A pleasant, scenic square overlooking the city from the opposite side of the castle. There is also a small Christmas market set up in the middle. 

Other:

  • Tram 28 – A nostalgic tram route for a hop-on, hop-off tour of the city
  • BICA ELEVATOR – One of the trams that goes up the hills. Actually, there is one on every hill, but this one is quite popular.  The distance is not long but steep; Tram schedules are at long intervals of 12 minutes. It’s fun to ride it at least once. 
  • Lisboa Oriente Station – The main stop of both train, bus and metro. We got on and off the bus from here, going to and from Porto. We also paid tribute to one of our architectural idols, Santiago Calatrava.  

Food, beverage & entertainment:

  • Belém Pastries – The first place that comes to mind if you like Nata, a delicious taste that melts in your mouth. The exclamation point of the Belem tour! 
  • A Ginjinha – One of the famous cherry/cherry liqueur places. I especially liked this place because of its central location and because locals frequent it to grab a quick glass. 
  • Pocket of Jaime d’Alfama – We went here for Fado night upon recommendation. It is a small place with 5-6 tables, but its music and food are original and delicious. What we liked most was that the soloists changed every few songs; thus giving the opportunity to listen to a variety of sounds. Moreover, the opportunity to meet and socialize with the beautiful fado soloist Sonya was the highlight of the night. 

We didn’t go but it’s on the list for next time:

Second Time’s a Must! 

Why I loved Portugal so much; 

First of all, the weather is very nice… I later learned that Portugal always has a temperate climate. When we arrived, we were expecting autumn colors but everywhere was green and even full of flowers. We realized that the weather is always spring-like in this country on the ocean coast, it’s even named “Temperate Port”. I guess winter is like autumn and summer is like spring. At the end of November and the beginning of December, we walked around in t-shirts, sometimes with jackets. This temperate climate also affects the vegetation; we got an idea of ​​the lush green nature and vineyards on our trip to Porto 

The ocean is something else… We felt it more in Porto because we had the opportunity to walk on the shore and touch the water. Whether you see it in a soft or majestic mood; the ocean takes your breath away. It’s nothing like the open sea; the energy is completely different. The sovereign says “I own this planet”. It’s also saying “life started with me and it’s possible only with me”. There is no room for unnecessary modesty here.  

But real life is in the cities… I loved the cities that this seafaring nation built in the giant river ports opening to the ocean, and the sweet flow of life here. Just like the combination of the powerful dynamism of the ocean and the fluid serenity of the river. There are sweet surprises and bouncy entertainment in city life; and also idle breaks and leisurely moments. I think Porto is a bit quieter, both because there are fewer residents and because it is further north. Lisbon, on the other hand, is more crowded and dynamic. 

In both cities there is an aesthetic that captures the attention of  the architect in me. It is not a wealth that is not forced, a show-off, a nouveau riche; but an aristocratic elegance that has been finely crafted over the years. Portugal’s hilly cities offer unique views from countless perspectives, like a giant canvas enlivened with colors and patterns by the ceramics adorning the facades of the buildings they call azulejo. It is not lacking in ornamentation either; the magnificent baroque is also here. Classical works of fine arts live with works of world-famous or local modern architects such as Calatrava and Koolhaas. But none of them compete with each other or bully each other. 

You can trace the traces of a culture that has transformed craft into art, starting from ceramics to other design products. The store in Porto where local designers’ products are sold, the cooperative shop in Lisbon, the small boutiques, the tiny corner cafes and even a poetry and narrative hall. I really liked the understated yet dignified stance of design here and how it is one of the main pillars of existence of life. 

I want to visit Portugal again and stay longer to dive deeper into this rich aesthetic world, to absorb its culture from music to art, and to be a part of life in Portugal rather than a tourist. Moreover, there are many places that I have not seen yet!

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Van, the Pearl of the East

Why and How?

Who wouldn’t remember Turkey’s largest lake from their first geography classes? That’s when I first wondered about Van. But then I forgot of course; it was too far away from my small world. Then during my secondary school years, I learned that my aunt’s husband, the eldest of the family, whom we called Enishte was from Van. I questioned him a bit but I don’t remember what he said. The topic was once again shelved for a long time. Until my mother retired and started traveling and went to Van with Enishte’s guidance. Over time, as my appetite to discover the treasures of my country grew, Van moved up in my list. And when I was preparing the digital content of the Urartian exhibition for the Rezan Has Museum, I became extremely curious. But work and priorities blocked my path. 

As I was able to spare more time to travel, explore and experience the world; I targeted my destinations not only by planning, but also by spontaneous decisions. And Van won the lottery from the airline discount campaign! Suddenly, I was choosing a destination for domestic flights at the end of October. With our cheap tickets purchased in advance, we arrived in Van with a journey that took approximately 2 hours from Istanbul airport.

Places to See in Van

I didn’t think we could visit all of the places we targeted in a three-night, three-and-a-half-day trip. Especially when it had started to get dark very early in the far east of Turkey. But we were a perfect team with my history and archeology enthusiast friends who loved traveling.We used time to the limits, starting the day very early, driving around the lake and consuming local delicacies in quantities way over our capacity. 

We used our time very efficiently; so I am listing our travel route in chronological order. … 

  • Van Museum: It was a great decision to start the trip from here… We not only saw the ruins unearthed from the entire region; we were informed on the history and culture of Van, especially its magnificent ancestors, the Urartians. Thus, we were able to plan the rest of our trip much easier and make better sense of what we saw. 
  • Tuşpa Castle: Tuşpa, the capital of the Urartian kingdom from the 9th century BC until its collapse, is the ancestor of the new Van city. The Castle, right next to the center, overlooks the entire region, the city, the lake and the mountains, from a majestic hill. Like many ruins, entrance to the castle is free with a Museum Card. You don’t need a physical card, you can form a QR code from the app on your phone. As you enter at the foot of the walls, it is worth going up the slope even just for the view. Unfortunately, there are not many ruins to visit inside the castle. But we found the real gem on our way back… As in all overlapping civilizations, many additions were made to the Urartu walls, including the Seljuk and Ottoman ones. While we were debating which wall was the oldest, we discovered a wonderful corner at the end of the road next to the cafeteria. We were fascinated by the cuneiform writings on the edge of a huge mass that remained intact from the Urartian city walls, the magnificent weeping willows next to it, and the fairy-tale beauty of the road going in. Moreover, it was a great spot to take photos. 
  • Çavuştepe: We went to Çavuştepe, an important trace of Urartu civilization, to see the fascinating temple ruins with cuneiform inscriptions on the stones, built with extraordinary precision for its time, and to meet the equally famous Mehmet Kuşman. When we had time left on our first day in Van, we drove here after visiting the museum and the castle. We breathed in the magical nature and history from this magnificent hill surrounded by steppes, bare mountains and green valleys. We ran our fingers over the cuneiform writings. We speculated about what else will be uncovered in the ongoing excavations. And finally we met Mehmet Kuşman. In fact, we had greeted the famous Urartian, who was working as the gatekeeper of the ruins, at the entrance. But first we had to see the site. On our way back, we did not miss the opportunity to visit his workshop in the stone building at the foot of the ruins and witness his story. Those who are curious can research him online or read Enver Şengül’s book, Keeper of Lost Time. Mehmet Kuşman is a rare gem; he has learned Urartian on his own and he is one of the few people in the world who knows this lost language and also can speak it. Proud to chat; we were excited to have our Urartian names written by him in our books which we bought from the workshop. You can visit Çavuştepe even just to meet this bright-eyed, old soul with a black cuneiform medallion. But beware, he may not be there in the off-season because he is constantly invited to speak in congresses and events. 
  • Van Lake Route: We set off at 6.30 in the morning in order to complete the journey around the lake in a day; it would roughly take 5-6 hours by car to go around if we did not stop. We arrived in Tatvan traveling on the mountain foothills and sometimes on the lakeside, accompanied by magnificently beautiful views. We took a road from Tatvan to Nemrut Crater, one of the important points of our route (this is not our famous Mount Nemrut, but the second one). Then we went back to Tatvan and then drove to Van via Ahlat, Adilcevaz, Sodalı Göl and Eriş. When the sun, which had warmed us all day long, disappeared into the red sky over the lake, it suddenly got cold and we ran inside to eat. 
  • Nemrut Crater Lake: We wanted to see this unique place, which is one of the largest volcanic crater lakes not only in Turkey but in the world. It was truly worth the journey… Starting from the Van lake view as we drove up the stone-paved road, to snow-covered slopes to green valleys, from stony shores to blue lakes and ponds the view was breathtakingly beautiful. We went as far as we could by car near the water. We did not insist on traveling more on foot, fearing the reputation of the bears that were released into the wild here years ago. But the whole thing was a wonderful experience, from its clear waters reflecting the sky like a mirror to the snowball fight at the edge of the crater. 
  • Ahlat: Ahlat, a charming settlement on the shores of the lake, is most famous for its Seljuk period ruins. The architectural appearance of the new town is in harmony with the old, as they are covered with local stones. This type of conservation and city planning should be an example for many places in Van.
    • Archaeological Museum: The small but charming museum deserves a short visit. It’s right next to the cemeteries anyway. 
    • Seljuk Cemetery: This is the largest ancient Muslim cemetery in the world. The individual Seljuk tombstones are as impressive as the huge size of the area they cover, or even more so. Each of the rectangular stone blocks, some grand and some smaller in size, are all crafted like fine lace, each telling a unique story. 
    • Tombs: The largest and most impressive monumental tombs of the region are here. I recommend to visit at least one; they take a short time to see. The unique geometry, the lighting, the earthy colors and the peaceful atmosphere is worth it. 
  • Adilcevaz: We did not have time to visit the ruins here; But we had a wonderful breakfast. 
  • Sodalı Lake & Süphan Mountain: Süphan Mountain, which seemed to be watching all over the land from the southern shores of the lake, started to look friendlier as we moved north. As I approached the snowy peaks, I compared Süphan to my Enishte, who always sat silent and stoic in a corner; I had respected him with a touch of fear… A giant who was both very close and far away, protecting and watching but not too intimate. From Sodalı Lake, a small pond on the edge of Lake Van, Süphan seemed to be staring into the distance with a slightly worn-out splendor. 
  • Ahtamar Island: We reserved Van’s most famous site for last. On the third day, we set out early in the morning to ride the Aghtamar ferries. We arrived at the pier just ahead of Gevaş with the sun at our back. We boarded around 9 o’clock and we were on the island in less than half an hour. First we objected to the boat returning in 1.5 hours. But even though it seemed too long, it was barely enough. The church itself is very impressive, structurally and with its reliefs. If you are curious you can eavesdrop on one of the tour groups that are frequent on the island; the stories are also very interesting. The interior is also impressive; especially the proportions and the magnificent light filtering through the small windows. It somewhat resembles the ruins of Ani in Kars. But this rare jewel, which is completely preserved along with the island, shines in a different way. Definitely worth half a day. 
  • Van Bazaar: Unfortunately, there is not much left of the old town in the city of Van. There is no old bazaar, no preserved neighborhood or even a block. After much research and inquiry, we heard about a “Russian Market” when we asked for souvenirs. Consisting of these few streets in the city center, it is now known as European Public Market So we did not return home empty-handed. In fact, we found more than we were looking for; there were antique treasures in a few shops that seemed to sell only trinkets. While my friends were spending most of their time there, I had already set my sights on the rug shop on the corner. With a little bargaining, I bought a wonderful rug, the largest size I could fit in my suitcase, at an affordable price. I filled my quota with a few souvenirs and a bracelet from the coppersmiths. 

Things we couldn’t go to

These are the other places in and around Van that are reserved for our next time because we ran out of time or they were a little too far away: 

  • Ahlat Ruined City
  • Ahlat Madavans Valley
  • Kef Castle
  • Hoşap Castle
  • Muradiye Waterfall
  • Dönemeç Waterfall
  • Seven Churches & Yoncatepe Necropolis
  • Süphan Mountain Trekking Route
  • Vanadokya Fairy Chimneys
  • Van Başkale Akçalı Travertines
  • Bakhchisaray
  • hizan

Where and What to Eat in Van?

We took the guidance of friends who have been to Van before or those who have lived there, the internet for our taste buds. We couldn’t try everything and some the ones we did try weren’t all great. These are the gastronomy stars of the Van trip: 

  • Urartu Khan: The food on the first night was so delicious we went there the second night. In the first one, we ordered stuffed onions to the Han Sofrası menu, which is a tasting assortment of local delicacies; It was all amazing. We tried other flavors for the second time; they were all delicious and special. We also came here for breakfast last morning after a bad experience elsewhere. We had the best Van breakfast here and we returned home with our stomachs full enough for a few days. 
  • Kuşhane: This place was closed on our second night so we went on our last night… We were not very hungry, so we were thinking of ordering only dessert. But we ate almost all the remaining local dishes. This was a special place that made us happy with wonderful tastes, with its small but cute, original decoration and elegant service. 
  • Ahlat Sofrasi: As we were leaving Ahlat and heading towards the north of the lake, we stopped at Adilcevaz because we were very hungry. Since we missed breakfast time and the electricity was out, we ate whatever was available. But what we had was modest in appearance but very very tasty. The fried eggs with meat were legendary, and the walnut and pear jams were flavors we could never find again. 

Lake Pearl

Even as the plane lands at the airport by the lake, the vast blue of Lake Van view is dazzling. From the moment we climbed to the castle, this blue giant surrounded by majestic mountains captured our souls. We were feeling like we were by the sea, but not quite. The pieces came together when I checked the altitude on the second day. The lake was at an altitude of 1700 meters! This was the reason for the softness and harshness, cuteness and the scariness at the same time. 

According to the internet,  the shores of the lake, which is not very hot even in summer, serve as the summer resort of the region. We decided to come again in summer and swim in the lake, to enjoy one of the sandy beaches on the Adilcevaz side. There were natural and historical spots left that we did not have the opportunity to visit anyway. 

We will visit Van again to see the damper side of it, especially the cool waterfalls. We also did not have the opportunity to taste the famous pearl mullet this time, neither fresh nor in the impressive dried form we saw in the market. We certainly intend to come back to Van, the pearl of Eastern Anatolia, still behind its shells, silently waiting for the moment when it will shine…

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A Ladle in the Sicily Cauldron

On the Trail of Greek Colonies

Since I had traveled extensively on the Italian mainland a long time ago and had no time for Sicily, this Mediterranean island had been on my mind for a while. A friend’s invitation was the occasion; I was in Sicily this summer for three weeks. I traveled the island and some on the heel of the boot in the mainland.

Sicily is one of the distant lands where first Greek colonies were first established. That’s why it is home to the oldest Hellenistic ruins in Europe. Moreover, this huge island, in the middle of the Mediterranean basin, is the playground of power and migration. That’s why it has been a cauldron of civilizations for centuries; similar to our Anatolia. Therefore, we warm up to it immediately… both spiritually and physically!

At the time, there was only a direct flight from Istanbul to Sicily via Catania. But I didn’t visit this city, which is one of the largest cities on the island. I went directly to Syracuse, one of the oldest and most famous settlements. It was also the epicenter of the program I was invited to. The aim of the program was a summer school with the design academy MADE to infuse European and cultural knowledge into American design students. I had the opportunity to accompany the team’s Sicily adventure as an observer upon the invitation of my host, designer and instructor Carey Watters.

Syracuse at night

Living in Syracuse

Since I stayed the longest in Syracuse, the city became like home. Sometimes we made daily trips to various parts of the island from here. Sometimes we let ourselves go to the rhythm of this slow town. We stayed in the old center, which carries the patina of the past on its streets and facades. Ortigia, the island at the tip of the island, is like the historical peninsula of Istanbul.

It’s possible to walk around the entire area connected to the mainland by two side-by-side bridges. In fact, it is recommended; because driving is a problem. Both Sicily’s difficult-to-decipher parking rules and some narrow one-way streets are just like Sultanahmet. After arriving from Catania to Syracuse on a frequently scheduled bus, we took a taxi to our apartment and traveled mostly on foot. Everything is within walking distance anyway. We also took buses from the stop on the edge of the island for group excursions. We only rented a car for a few days to places we specifically wanted to visit.

To those planning a trip to Sicily, no matter which route you follow, I suggest to make a base town and get familiar with its streets, the people and the food. In other words, instead of visiting touristic places one after another, I recommend that you choose a center and synchronize your five senses there. That’s what I did; I’m very happy with the result. Moreover, I managed to see many of the most famous places on the island.

Important note: Time is slow in Sicily. So if you’re in a hurry, it can be hard. Therefore, it’s useful to adjust your rhythm of life accordingly. In fact, their way of working is very similar to ours, the Turks. Both in slowness, lack of planning and the capacity to let go. After all, we have the Mediterranean spirit – children of the same climate.

I am writing my entire Sicily and southern Italy route at the end of the article with map links. You can pick from those… But I would like to note the ones that impressed me the most here:

  • Archaeological Park: In addition to the ruins of the old city, one of the first Greek colonies, there are also traces from the Roman period. But the most impressive part is the quarries that provided resources for the construction of the region and the giant statues placed in this area. The majority of the Igor Mitoraj – a scuptor of Polish origin – collection is located in the Syracuse Archaeological Site and is truly impressive. The works inspired by mythology and especially Icarus are dazzling. Igor Mitoraj’s works, which can be seen in other historical places in Sicily too, are like traces from history.
  • Archaeological Museum: There are many, many displays… Not only from this city but also from other ruins of the island. Frankly, I was not very impressed by the displays of piles, not selecting important ones and highlighting them. But it is very rich in content for those who are interested. Especially the special hall where the most beautiful coins are exhibited is worth seeing.
  • Ortigia Island Streets: I would say at least one day, but the ideal is to experience different routes for a few days. Moreover, there are tiny beaches on the edge of the city where you can dive into the Mediterranean from the rocks.
  • Temple of Apollo: At the entrance of the island, it is the most touristic place; impossible to miss. Make a few prayers; after all he is the prophet god.
  • Fish Market: Seafood, a must for every southern Italy and Sicily themed trip, is on display here. You can taste them all, either as a mixture or one by one. I tried them all, from mixed fries in a cone to a delicatessen plate and I was not disappointed. A part of it is reserved for souvenirs. The prices are normal; more or less the same everywhere. However, the market is open early in the morning and closed in the afternoon every day; don’t miss out. 
  • Puppet Museum: A tiny private museum. Ideal for seeing the history of Syracuse-specific puppet models and its most beautiful examples. There is also a show, but I didn’t watch that.
  • The Fort: I saw it from afar and had the impression that there was no need to visit first. But later when I went in I was glad. It’s has a great view of the island and it is impressive to see the volcanic rocks in the vaults of the high-ceilinged main hall. There are also works of art scattered around; it’s definitely worth spending an hour or two.
  • San Giovanni Catacombs: Another catacomb I thought at first. But I saw these andI suggest you don’t skip them. It’s so big and impressive that we were glad to put on a helmet and do a half-hour tour.
  • Piazza Santa Lucia flea market: I became a flea market enthusiast in my mother’s footsteps; I chase them in every city I go to. But this one is different! So much so that I went two weeks. It is set up on Sunday mornings and closes in the afternoons. There are rare pieces waiting to be discovered here, along with second hand items, antiques, and junk too. I bought Italian original old comic books, a few old pieces of jewelry, and a couple of new dresses. There is old stuff on one side, food on the other, and new materials in a corner like our markets.
  • Madonna delle Lacrime Cathedral: I visited this relatively new, modern cathedral partly out of professional curiosity. It is like a giant monument built in the transition period of Fascist Italy to modern times. I was impressed by the building itself and the feelings felt under that pyramidal structure. It is a matter of taste, a different atmosphere. You can also see the story and memories of one of the Catholic miracles in the small museum underneath.

What To Eat

  • Traditional Sicilian table in an old courtyard, economical menu warm people

Il Cortile di Archimede-Bistrot Ristorante in Ortigia Siracusa 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/pBUPLgsrHvZSwZjE7

  • Taverna Giudecca Food Drink & Shop Wine a Ortigia

A charcuterie plate that is this delicious and aesthetic! The best we’ve eaten. Local wine and beer are both affordable and delicious. We loved it so much we went back the next night. The cuttlefish ink and calamari arancinos are the best I’ve had in Sicily. The plates are satisfying both for the eyes and the stomach.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/8cyfJ9oku2ovcYdNA

  • Trattoria La Foglia

A wonderful venue with great attention to detail, delicious food and table wine. A bit expensive compared to others

https://maps.app.goo.gl/hpKzoja3tuvxb4GK6

  • For Arancino, the Sicilian street food, this is the place:

Antica Giudecca – Pizzeria, Biscotti, Arancini, Take Away

Think of it like a bakery, it has two tables but it is actually for take out

https://maps.app.goo.gl/W5f6yzhNCw1kP8Md8

Ice Cream Shops:

  • Gelateria Belfiore Gelato & Cioccolato 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/wCh6Y5EnKfMuqLgt5

  • Viola Espresso Bar

https://maps.app.goo.gl/9encpDhUxbFZvoo27

Jewels of Sicily

I will leave the most cosmopolitan, most vibrant city of the island, Palermo, for last, as we did on the route. Apart from that, here are some of the touristic spots:

Taormina

Built on a very steep slope, the city is one of the most touristic places in Sicily. Both the neatly restored Greek/Roman Theater and the ruins around it and the streets with preserved buildings are truly impressive. But neither the pedestrian street Corso Umberto, adorned with luxury brands, nor the balconies on the facades were enough to make me ecstatic. Yes, you should visit it, but a day will suffice. I especially found the crowded pedestrian traffic & the hot sun repulsive. The gardens of Villa Comunale di Taormina, where we took refuge while trying to escape from this chaos, were a heavenly breeze. It is both adorned with Roman ruins and surrounded by wonderful gardens and the view is magnificent.

The bakery-like cafe that we went to did not disappoint us. We ate our Arancinos here; we liked the spinach and cheese one the most: Rosticceria Da Cristina 2 – https://maps.app.goo.gl/AdqrKJGLmDWdgR1H6 

There is also a cable car from the hills of Taormina to the beach. We saw it when we drove down the winding roads and reached the seaside. But there is a close island across from one of its few famous beaches that you can walk to: There is also a chapel on this island of Isola Bella. The water is cool and rocky, there is a public beach and facilities right by the sea, but a bit expensive.

Agrigento – Valley of Temples

Don’t leave Sicily without seeing this Valley of Temples. The city Agrigento, the richest of the Greek colonies of the period, built majestic temples on a hill, seven of which have been restored and can be visited. It is impossible not to be impressed as you proceed along the ancient road, spiced by the fallen Icarus, another work by Igor Mitoraj. We also realized how magnificent, rich, deep and ancient our Anatolian heritage is. As we do in every European trip, the fact that Turkey’s cultural and natural heritage does not hold the importance, attention and interest it deserves makes our hearts ache.

Villa Romana del Casale

Villa Romana del Casale is a Roman mansion that has been preserved as a whole since it was buried underground due to a landslide and it has been restored beautifully. We do have a lot of mosaics in Turkey too but it’s with the visit Especially bikini girls are very popular and famous. But I liked the big hall where mythological stories and eccentric animal mosaics are.

Etna National Park

When else can you come this close to an active volcano? It is a rare piece of nature and Etna National Park has wonderful trails where you can walk with well-equipped guides. Both the landscape is legendary and the shades on the earth from different Etna eruption periods are fascinating. It has a unique climate, so I recommend that you go prepared. There are also cafeterias and gşft shops selling volcanic stone ornaments. I regret not buying more of the red 70% alcohol  Etna liqueurs, what a delicious drink!

Noto

Another rich city… But this one is not so ancient. I recommend to set aside a day to wander the streets and visit the inside of a few Baroque architecture’s jewel-like buildings and mansions. The day we visited, a classic car tour was passing by here! What fun and commotion was watching the aunties and uncles in these vehicles straight out of the movies wave goodbye to us! We were lucky in both timing and finding a delicious break too…

Legendary arancinos are here: I loved the pistachio and cheese one… Rosticceria Palermitana Arancina Planet – https://maps.app.goo.gl/Gv99U1e6jV2nx7FP6 

The best ice cream I’ve ever had was here: Try the ricotta and pistachio one… Caffè Sicilia – https://maps.app.goo.gl/bax5kVj3sKRDEokv6 

Modica

This small city was founded at a junction where three deep valleys meet inland. You can climb the stairs or the steep slopes and view the baroque architecture and the valley. It is also home to Italy’s oldest cold-pressed chocolate makers and a chocolate museum. Although I can’t say it’s the best chocolate I’ve ever tasted you can shop for quality delicacies here: Antica Dolceria Bonajuto – https://maps.app.goo.gl/KyXWCRmxsvNeLmEY8  I ​​think half a day is enough for the city.

Marzamemi

This place is actually a small fishing town; but it’s famous for the fish restaurants around the tiny square that was preserved. We had dinner with excellent fish, shrimps and calamari pasta at the restaurant recommended: Al Boccone – https://maps.app.goo.gl/cJbZX7dMA7JKcnEJ8 

The City of Palermo

As I said, it’s the most cosmopolitan, most vibrant city on the island… Staying in the heart of Palermo, right in the middle of that famous marketplace allowed us to experience the chaos to the fullest. We came to the Chiesa del Carmine Maggiore Monastery guesthouse with the hope of an economical and clean accommodation. Monastery accommodations are a method widely used in Europe, especially in Italy. Usually, they do not upset the guests who have low comfort expectations, but we were a little bit disappointed this time. The building was shabby, the sheets were very thin, the hygiene was mediocre, and the comfort level was below average. Moreover, the market that setup at around 6 in the morning roamed until the evening with shouting, sometimes music and dancing. So I can’t say I would recommend it, but it was a different experience. When you left the room to go to the courtyard, the only area with internet reception, the picturesque beauty and serenity of the environment did carry a natural sense of enlightenment. It also had  a direct connection to the church and the bell tower. A breakfast consisting of croissants, jam, yogurt and coffee was not satisfactory. That’s why we preferred to eat from the vendors and shops in the market.

We took the Street Food Tour on the first day and ate the local flavors with a guide. During the half-day walk, we ate snacks standing or occasionally sitting at the famous places. We spent the rest of our time shopping at the market. I have to mention that the ricotta cheeses are legendary!

Of course, we visited most of the top tourist spots of Palermo. I am sharing them in the location list. But the Norman Palace and the famous chapel inside fascinated me the most… I have never seen such beautiful and magnificent mosaics. Moreover, the workmanship of the muqarnas decoration on the ceiling is a show

The archaeological museum and private museums are also beautiful, a better exhibition environment than the one in Syracuse. The buildings are also very enjoyable, and you can feel life in ancient times in the displays. I recommend seeing the giant Palermo Cathedral at night, especially for travelers who are tired of seeing baroque architecture; you can climb up to its illuminated roof and view the city. There is also a free special exhibition called No Mafia Museum; you can see the history of the mafia and its victims.

In short, although it did not astonish me visually and spiritually as other cities in Sicily and the chaotic energy, similar to Istanbul, is a bit tiring. But I would like to go to Palermo again to see the places  I missed & walk around the streets. Unfortunately the streets are very dirty, there is garbage everywhere. Palermo is also an impressive stop in Sicily. Moreover, there are now direct flights!

The Cauldron Issue

In fact, in the last part of the three-week route, we also visited the southern parts of the Italian mainland for a few days before going to Palermo. This land is also magnificent and consists of regions with their own characteristics. It is possible to go from the northern shores to the southern Mediterranean waters, from the west to the mountains of the east in a matter of hours. The atmosphere and energy of each is different. There are also plenty of ghost towns; the ones where the legends of buying a house for 5/10 Euros are famous. But I will not go into the details of this part of the trip; both because I do not feel I have done it justice to it. But I will share our route. I definitely recommend each of them.

Now, about the ladle of Sicily… In short, this rare piece of land that has been the cauldron of civilization in the Mediterranean does deserve your time. Whether you like history, food or nature, it is beautiful with a diverse culture. Although I stayed quite long, I could not quite succeed in visiting everywhere. But it was wonderful to be the ladle that tasted this cauldron of experience. I’ll go again!

Sicily May 2024 Route

Syracusa

Taormina 

Noto

Modica

Marzamemi

Agrigento – Valley of Temples 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/LPGY5Ku35jZyEPgQ6

Villa Romana del Casale

https://maps.app.goo.gl/uKwB3YjQt2RuYSFGA

Etna National Park 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/wmDCA6NGMci7VGTH7

Palermo 

Eating Out: 

Il Cambisone – https://maps.app.goo.gl/cSsxaTX65gVSzRsp9

Cefalu

Mainland: 

Cosenza

https://maps.app.goo.gl/1aNijYWHCd7j3Ewy5

Lago Arvo – Dağ Gölü & Lorica

https://maps.app.goo.gl/YNM3NmmBKZ5uAwkQ9

Rocceletta – Basilica di Santa Maria della Roccella

https://maps.app.goo.gl/dFt5okADEhiRp8Gb8

Stilo – Cattolica di Stilo 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/JkQV1dcszvj2EmS59

Tropea – Capo Vaticano 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/Uu2oFb8Q4uMUfiDk8

Pentedattilo (ghost town)

https://maps.app.goo.gl/VAvz5cKLDXQw5STU8

We could not go but we wanted to:

  • Ragusa
  • Agrigento Museo archeologico regionale Pietro Griffo
  • Selinunte
  • Sciacca
  • Lido Scala dei Turchi
  • Capo Bianco
  • Trapani
  • San Vito Lo Copo
  • Scopello
  • Terrasini
  • Reggio Calabria – Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Reggio Calabria
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My Acquired Hometown: Eski Doğanbey

The Hometown Issue…

My acquired  hometown: this is the personal meaning of Old Doğanbey Village for me. Because, like many other people living in this part of the world, I am a nomad. I was not born here, my parents are not from here. In fact, I did not grow up here… Or rather, my childhood was not here; but this land has been home to my heart. I did not go to school here, but here I read the great novels that left traces on my heart. I did not fall in love here, but I cried out many of my love aches to this wind, I left my pain to this sky. I didn’t get married here, but I wore out my loves here. I didn’t work here, but I found inspiration here; I wrote and drew here. I even worked for this place; with the Old Doğanbey Friends, I tried so that our village would not be spoiled and not fall victim to contempt, indifference, or profiteering. I mean, I didn’t grow up here in the sense you know, but I grew up with this sense of belonging. Here, I inherited both the healing energy that penetrated the soul of the village from generations ago and the home my mother created. Now I am trying to live worthy of this legacy and share it with other souls who can see, hear and feel it.

To summarize briefly…

Eski Doğanbey is a unique place where people connect with themselves and nature. Here you can feel the energy of people who lived in harmony with the land, grew olives on the hills or fished in the bay. The first traces of the settlement dates back to 7th century B.C. but the more well-known part of its history is the stone houses and terraced olive groves built by the Greek inhabitants. The old name of the village “Domatia” means rooms in old Greek. Eski Doğanbey is an ancient Greek village whose original texture has been preserved. In other words, it is an extraordinary place with its old genuine stone houses, some of which have regained their former glory, while others are still in ruins.

When we look at recent history, with the migration that started in 1924, the original Greek inhabitants were replaced by Turkish families from Thrace and the Balkans. The new villagers, who made their living mostly by fishing from the sea and agriculture from the plains instead of olives and olive oil, left the breezy foothills of the mountain and established a new settlement 2 km downstream with the support of the state: Doğanbey. Some of the structures were battered to search for gold, some for materials for new houses, and some succumbed to the cruelty of the time. Except for a few families staying in the village, life fell into a long silence. It sprouted again in the late 80s early 90s with the rediscovery of those who fled the city.

Eski Doğanbey Village is a quiet corner close to the center of both the old world and the new Aegean. Here you can retreat to solitude or socialize easily in nearby places such as Kusadasi, Didim, İzmir or Bodrum. Located within the borders of Dilek (Büyük Menderes Delta) National Park in Söke district of Aydın, the old village is located at the foot of Mykale (also called Dilek / Samsun) mountains, 2 km up from Yeni Doğanbey Village; overlooking the magnificent view of one of the largest deltas of the Aegean Sea..

My Old Doğanbey Story…

My past with the village begins in my middle school years… Since my classmate’s family were interested in traveling, cultural heritage and such hidden gems, they discovered the Old Doğanbey Village in 1989. We are on holiday in Didim with my yet unbroken family at that time. Being aware of this discovery, my mother, who is fond of “shabby” in her own words, and my father a “bohemian at heart”, included the village in the excursion to the Miletus city. Since there was no public transportation or even asphalt roads to teh village at that time; we climbed the slope on the back of a tractor. But Eski Doğanbey was love at first sight for all of us individually. Guided by one of the families who did not move to the new settlement, my parents bought one of the ruins with a loan. 

We could afford to have our house renovated a few years later, when my parents get divorced and my mother can save money with a second job after retirement. Then I’m in high school; I can hold a hammer, trowel, sandpaper; therefore, in the summers, I work in the construction. Our nest is in a narrow street just behind the village square in the old center of the village, which I call the “European Side”. We make our home with our own labor over a long period of time. We transform the barn downstairs into a living room, adding a bathroom and a room upstairs, and renovating the kitchen, which we still use from the courtyard.

Meanwhile, I blow the excitements, disappointments and cries of revenge of my first loves to these mountains. When I go swimming in the sea near the hot water spring on the Karina road and get sick, I swallow vitamins and antibiotics in the fountain of the village in secret. I learn the results of the summer university exams in that house; My dream is architecture and my construction site experience is already in place. I discharge the pains of being eighteen two hours away in Bodrum with my friends and then read “The Name of the Rose” on the ridges of the Samsun mountains. I come every summer while I am studying at the university and I also attempt to write my master’s thesis about here. Lots of sketches, detailed images of the village in old films; whatever you want is in my archives.

As the years pass, I get caught up in the beat of business life; I set my heart in other places during the holidays. But I accompany my mother’s arrivals in the spring and returns to the city in the fall. My mother becomes a part of the group with the neighbors, founding an association for the revival of the village. The association is established in order to protect the village, to make life easier and coordinate the services that did not reach the village at that time. My retired banker mother works as a treasurer for years there; they do a lot of work, from the construction of old-fashioned roads to bringing water from the mountain. We have senior architects, urban and regional planners, academics, art historians, artists, and various intellectual neighbors among the village residents, so I am assigned to run errands. 

Over time, my mother’s health deteriorates; the comfort of the house, which we cannot reach by car, and the village slopes challenge it. When a house that can be reached by car and where my mother can live without climbing the stairs is available on the opposite side of the village which we call the “Anatolian Side”; she rolls up her sleeves. We sell our old house and build a new home in this one. Again we collaborate; our neighbor Architect Sibel Gürsel and her husband Oğuz Söğüt help out. I’m also an architect now; so I support remotely as much as I can. This way, my mother does not leave the village, although she is able to stay less each year. The last summer she visits, she calls my father to visit… And twenty years later, the three of us breathe the familiar breeze together for the first and last time.

The next year, I bid farewell to both my parents to other lands and come back here to mourn. Then, I realize that I have always burried my heartaches here; when my heart was hurt, I always fled here. Whatever the wounds, my heart always healed here and new seeds of joy sprouted here, I bloomed here.

That’s why Eski Doğanbey later became my hometown. Like those before me, I may migrate one day; but I wish it will always stay this beautiful.

Tips for those who want to come to the village:

Eski Doğanbey is half an hour away from Söke center, 1.5 hours away from İzmir by car, and 2 hours away from Bodrum. It is recommended to use a private vehicle for transportation. However, it is also possible to use public transport from Söke bus station. You only have to tell the driver that you will go up to Old Doğanbey when you get on the minibuses that say Doğanbey.

It is advantageous to use private transport to get around, as the village is located in an unpopulated natural reserve area. The village is located on hiking trails where there are bird watching opportunities as well as other natural beauties. Büyük Menderes Delta is not suitable for swimming, it is a wetland where mostly fishing is done. However, it is a 10-minute drive to Karina, located at the far end of the delta, where you can swim and enjoy fresh fish caught by local fishermen.

You can also go to one of the many exceptional beaches with clear waters and beautiful natural views of Dilek Peninsula National Park with a journey of approximately 45 minutes – 1 hour. The beach side of Dilek Peninsula National Park, of which Eski Doğanbey is also located within the boundaries of, is on the northern side of the peninsula. There is a walking trail of about 20 km from our village to the beaches, but there is no vehicle road. The entrance is closer to Kuşadası and you pay for access to the beaches during the day (vehicle or pedestrian) and accommodation is prohibited.

There are very important traces of ancient civilizations in and around the Büyük Menderes Delta… Ancient cities such as Priene, Miletos, Apollon Temple & Didima, Magnesia, Ephesus and the House of Virgin Mary are among the many attractions nearby. I will also mention some of them in my articles…

When I can’t go to the village, our house is rented in two entries: the big house as the “White Mansion” and the small house as the “Tiny Stone House” in Airbnb. Thus, I can afford for the upkeep and the maintenance of the houses. Moreover, I usually make friends with the guests when I find the opportunity; these friendships open new doors to other worlds for me. Here are the details:

White Mansion: https://www.airbnb.com.tr/rooms/2680883?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=14e5eebc-0115-4e47-b520-100ddc108011

Tiny Stone House:

https://www.airbnb.com/rooms/50408309?guests=1&adults=1&s=67&unique_share_id=162dfc7f-41c3-4484-8aa8-259960816837

You can read more detailed information about the village here:

The closest beach to the village: Karina… With my words!

A detailed and beautiful article written by Arzu Aksaya in 2021, on her blog page Yolcukal.com:

https://www.neredekal.com/blog/sokede-sakin-ve-tatli-bir-huzur-eski-doganbey-koyu/

By Zeynep Atılgan Boneval, the illustrated Journey Therapy blog post:

https://www.yolculukterapisi.com/doganbey

A short but concise presentation of the Municipality of Söke, Eski Doğanbey:

https://www.soke.bel.tr/tarihi-merkez/eski-doganbey-koyu/12

Eski Doğanbey in Sour Dictionary

https://eksisozluk1923.com/doganbey-koyu–1919970?p=1