Arrogant Kibyra

Kibyra stands alone a little out of the wayThe city sits proudly on a hilltop, a bit far from the coast and touristy sites. It’s two hours from Antalya, and about an hour each from Burdur and Denizli; nestled among the mountains in a town called Gölhisar.

But it deserves its arrogance to be honest… It should be proud of its magnificent mosaics that have been recently unearthed (especially the Medusa in the theatre), its magnificent settlement spread over the slopes of the hills and the hypnotic fountain that still runs today.

Because I was so impressed by the magnificent ruins of Kibyra at the Burdur Archaeology Museum earlier during my spring visit; I thought I absolutely had to visit it. So, after leaving Antalya and visiting Termessos, I arrived at the site in the latter half of the day. There are parking spaces on two levels; I parked at the higher one and followed the route down. It took me about two or three hours to explore the entire city. Finally, I hitchhiked up from the lower parking lot. At the end, I’d conquered two ancient cities on two mountains in one day; but they were the actual victors. Kibyra’s arrogant beauty was worth it!

Historical Information

The ancient city of Kibyra is located on three dominant hills separated from each other by deep cliffs in the Horzum neighborhood of the Gölhisar district of Burdur.

The city’s settlement area is quite extensive. The buildings are arranged symmetrically, with hilly terraces dominating the lake and plain views, ensuring that no structure obstructs the view of another. As you enter the city, on the left is a magnificent monumental gate and the most magnificent stadium in ancient Anatolia, with a capacity of 12,000-13,000 people.

As we proceed, we see the basilica, the upper and lower agora, the bathhouse, the gymnasium, the theater, the council building, a planned mausoleum, a bathhouse, a round-towered arch, and aqueducts. The council building/music house, with its capacity of 3,600 people, is one of the most magnificent works of ancient Anatolia. Located in the heart of the council building/orchestra, the Medusa Mosaic, made of red, green, and white marble, with its hair composed of snakes and its gaze that turns people to stone, is unique in Anatolia.

In 2011, a mosaic, covering 540 square meters and considered the largest and most intact mosaic site in Anatolia, was unearthed in front of the parliament building. Also in front of the parliament building was a Roman bathhouse and a ceramics workshop dating back to the Late Roman Period (6th-7th centuries AD). All the architectural remains visible in the city today date from the Roman Imperial Period.

Cibyra appears to have been under the rule of the Kingdom of Pergamum during the reign of Eumenes II (197-159 BC). Immediately thereafter, a four-party council (2nd-1st centuries BC) was formed, consisting of the ancient cities of Cibyra and its surroundings: Boubon, Balboura, and Oinoanda.

This league was dissolved and abolished by the Roman General Murena in 82 BC, and the province of Asia and other cities were incorporated into the Lycian League. The city, destroyed by a massive earthquake in 23 AD, was rebuilt by the Roman Emperor Tiberius. Cibyra experienced its most glorious period, particularly between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD.

Cibyra is renowned for its blacksmithing, leatherworking, pottery, and horse breeding. The city’s inhabitants were fiercely warlike. The parliament building, with its Medusa head and the largest and most intact mosaic area in Turkey in front of it, are noteworthy. Artifacts unearthed from Cibyra are on display at the Burdur Museum.

Source: Cultural Inventory, Ankara 2007

Kibyra Wiki Page HERE

I Could Swim Here: Meis Island for a Day Trip

By swimming or by boat?…

If you have been to Kaş, you know that Meis Island is one of the closest Greek islands to our coast. For those who enjoy open-water swimming, the Kaş-Meis route may also be familiar. Therefore, swimming from Kaş to Meis is technically possible. But I don’t recommend it as a transportation method… 🙂

Instead, I recommend choosing one of the ferry companies in Kaş center, buying your ticket, paying the port taxes (both ports charge separately – currently Kaş 130 TL, Meis 5 Euros) and your international departure fee (for Turkish citizens only). The ticket price (25-30 Euros) and the travel time (25-30 minutes) are directly proportional to the island’s proximity.

I’ve heard that some people prefer to take a boat tour instead of the ferry. While it might be tempting to skip the hassle of transfers, I opted for individual travel. The small town where the ferry docks in Meis, the two other destinations are accessible only by sea: the Blue Cave and St. George Beach. I’ll go into more detail later, but small boat taxis can easily and frequently take you to and from both. Furthermore, you can determine the timing and how long you’ll stay on the island where the beach is located.

Things to see…

Meis Island is quite small, so don’t expect a long list. However, the town center where you disembark is so charming that how much time you spend wandering the streets is entirely up to you. Here are a few attractions:

  • Meis town… Be sure to take a tour among the buildings painted in candy like colors. I recommend diving inland into the narrow streets.
  • There is a Lycian Tomb… It’s not exactly spectacular, but since we’re wandering around the island, why not? The road is beautiful, and there’s a stunning view behind the island. It’s not a very long climb, either.
  • A must-see place in Meis is the Blue Cave a sea cave at the back of the island. It’s accessible only by boat from the harbor and can be entered before high tide and during calm seas. But the interior is vast and magnificent; I think it’s a must-see.
blue cave
  • At a point closer to the port, on two interconnected islets stands Saint George Beach. Access is again only from the water. However, small boats depart from the harbor and take you to the Blue Cave, take a short tour and then drop you off there. They’ll pick you up whenever you want. So you can sunbathe on cushioned wooden loungers and enjoy the aquarium-like water on this lovely beach by the sea. Even in October, the water was magnificent. I paid 10 euros for a lounge chair and 5 euros for a Fredo Cappuccino; I don’t think it’s too much for a place like this.
saint george beach

Daily or overnight stay?…

Of course, it depends on the person and the circumstances… But I stayed in Kaş and went back and forth for the day. I took the 9:30 a.m. ferry; there’s also an 11:00 a.m. For my evening return, I chose the earlier option of 4:00 p.m. or 11:00 p.m. Because:

  • It was off-season, so accommodation in Kaş was more affordable. Accommodation options in Meis were relatively limited, so it was a bit more expensive.
  • My schedule only allowed for one day and I actually saw the entire island. But if I had the time, I’d have loved spending a full day at that stunning beach and wandering the island’s streets for longer. It would have been perfect for a relaxing weekend, and perhaps a chance to get a little accustomed to the island’s rhythm.
  • I had a delicious meal on the dock at noon. Without any research, I just sat where I felt like. The seafood, like on every island, was fresh and well-prepared. But if I’d stayed overnight, I’d have had a long, ouzo night out.
meis lunch
meis flower

After all… If you have limited time, a Daily Meis tour is very satisfying. But if you live nearby or if you are rich in time; a long week end would be perfect.

meis cat