Tag: travel

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A Ladle in the Sicily Cauldron

On the Trail of Greek Colonies

Since I had traveled extensively on the Italian mainland a long time ago and had no time for Sicily, this Mediterranean island had been on my mind for a while. A friend’s invitation was the occasion; I was in Sicily this summer for three weeks. I traveled the island and some on the heel of the boot in the mainland.

Sicily is one of the distant lands where first Greek colonies were first established. That’s why it is home to the oldest Hellenistic ruins in Europe. Moreover, this huge island, in the middle of the Mediterranean basin, is the playground of power and migration. That’s why it has been a cauldron of civilizations for centuries; similar to our Anatolia. Therefore, we warm up to it immediately… both spiritually and physically!

At the time, there was only a direct flight from Istanbul to Sicily via Catania. But I didn’t visit this city, which is one of the largest cities on the island. I went directly to Syracuse, one of the oldest and most famous settlements. It was also the epicenter of the program I was invited to. The aim of the program was a summer school with the design academy MADE to infuse European and cultural knowledge into American design students. I had the opportunity to accompany the team’s Sicily adventure as an observer upon the invitation of my host, designer and instructor Carey Watters.

Syracuse at night

Living in Syracuse

Since I stayed the longest in Syracuse, the city became like home. Sometimes we made daily trips to various parts of the island from here. Sometimes we let ourselves go to the rhythm of this slow town. We stayed in the old center, which carries the patina of the past on its streets and facades. Ortigia, the island at the tip of the island, is like the historical peninsula of Istanbul.

It’s possible to walk around the entire area connected to the mainland by two side-by-side bridges. In fact, it is recommended; because driving is a problem. Both Sicily’s difficult-to-decipher parking rules and some narrow one-way streets are just like Sultanahmet. After arriving from Catania to Syracuse on a frequently scheduled bus, we took a taxi to our apartment and traveled mostly on foot. Everything is within walking distance anyway. We also took buses from the stop on the edge of the island for group excursions. We only rented a car for a few days to places we specifically wanted to visit.

To those planning a trip to Sicily, no matter which route you follow, I suggest to make a base town and get familiar with its streets, the people and the food. In other words, instead of visiting touristic places one after another, I recommend that you choose a center and synchronize your five senses there. That’s what I did; I’m very happy with the result. Moreover, I managed to see many of the most famous places on the island.

Important note: Time is slow in Sicily. So if you’re in a hurry, it can be hard. Therefore, it’s useful to adjust your rhythm of life accordingly. In fact, their way of working is very similar to ours, the Turks. Both in slowness, lack of planning and the capacity to let go. After all, we have the Mediterranean spirit – children of the same climate.

I am writing my entire Sicily and southern Italy route at the end of the article with map links. You can pick from those… But I would like to note the ones that impressed me the most here:

  • Archaeological Park: In addition to the ruins of the old city, one of the first Greek colonies, there are also traces from the Roman period. But the most impressive part is the quarries that provided resources for the construction of the region and the giant statues placed in this area. The majority of the Igor Mitoraj – a scuptor of Polish origin – collection is located in the Syracuse Archaeological Site and is truly impressive. The works inspired by mythology and especially Icarus are dazzling. Igor Mitoraj’s works, which can be seen in other historical places in Sicily too, are like traces from history.
  • Archaeological Museum: There are many, many displays… Not only from this city but also from other ruins of the island. Frankly, I was not very impressed by the displays of piles, not selecting important ones and highlighting them. But it is very rich in content for those who are interested. Especially the special hall where the most beautiful coins are exhibited is worth seeing.
  • Ortigia Island Streets: I would say at least one day, but the ideal is to experience different routes for a few days. Moreover, there are tiny beaches on the edge of the city where you can dive into the Mediterranean from the rocks.
  • Temple of Apollo: At the entrance of the island, it is the most touristic place; impossible to miss. Make a few prayers; after all he is the prophet god.
  • Fish Market: Seafood, a must for every southern Italy and Sicily themed trip, is on display here. You can taste them all, either as a mixture or one by one. I tried them all, from mixed fries in a cone to a delicatessen plate and I was not disappointed. A part of it is reserved for souvenirs. The prices are normal; more or less the same everywhere. However, the market is open early in the morning and closed in the afternoon every day; don’t miss out. 
  • Puppet Museum: A tiny private museum. Ideal for seeing the history of Syracuse-specific puppet models and its most beautiful examples. There is also a show, but I didn’t watch that.
  • The Fort: I saw it from afar and had the impression that there was no need to visit first. But later when I went in I was glad. It’s has a great view of the island and it is impressive to see the volcanic rocks in the vaults of the high-ceilinged main hall. There are also works of art scattered around; it’s definitely worth spending an hour or two.
  • San Giovanni Catacombs: Another catacomb I thought at first. But I saw these andI suggest you don’t skip them. It’s so big and impressive that we were glad to put on a helmet and do a half-hour tour.
  • Piazza Santa Lucia flea market: I became a flea market enthusiast in my mother’s footsteps; I chase them in every city I go to. But this one is different! So much so that I went two weeks. It is set up on Sunday mornings and closes in the afternoons. There are rare pieces waiting to be discovered here, along with second hand items, antiques, and junk too. I bought Italian original old comic books, a few old pieces of jewelry, and a couple of new dresses. There is old stuff on one side, food on the other, and new materials in a corner like our markets.
  • Madonna delle Lacrime Cathedral: I visited this relatively new, modern cathedral partly out of professional curiosity. It is like a giant monument built in the transition period of Fascist Italy to modern times. I was impressed by the building itself and the feelings felt under that pyramidal structure. It is a matter of taste, a different atmosphere. You can also see the story and memories of one of the Catholic miracles in the small museum underneath.

What To Eat

  • Traditional Sicilian table in an old courtyard, economical menu warm people

Il Cortile di Archimede-Bistrot Ristorante in Ortigia Siracusa 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/pBUPLgsrHvZSwZjE7

  • Taverna Giudecca Food Drink & Shop Wine a Ortigia

A charcuterie plate that is this delicious and aesthetic! The best we’ve eaten. Local wine and beer are both affordable and delicious. We loved it so much we went back the next night. The cuttlefish ink and calamari arancinos are the best I’ve had in Sicily. The plates are satisfying both for the eyes and the stomach.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/8cyfJ9oku2ovcYdNA

  • Trattoria La Foglia

A wonderful venue with great attention to detail, delicious food and table wine. A bit expensive compared to others

https://maps.app.goo.gl/hpKzoja3tuvxb4GK6

  • For Arancino, the Sicilian street food, this is the place:

Antica Giudecca – Pizzeria, Biscotti, Arancini, Take Away

Think of it like a bakery, it has two tables but it is actually for take out

https://maps.app.goo.gl/W5f6yzhNCw1kP8Md8

Ice Cream Shops:

  • Gelateria Belfiore Gelato & Cioccolato 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/wCh6Y5EnKfMuqLgt5

  • Viola Espresso Bar

https://maps.app.goo.gl/9encpDhUxbFZvoo27

Jewels of Sicily

I will leave the most cosmopolitan, most vibrant city of the island, Palermo, for last, as we did on the route. Apart from that, here are some of the touristic spots:

Taormina

Built on a very steep slope, the city is one of the most touristic places in Sicily. Both the neatly restored Greek/Roman Theater and the ruins around it and the streets with preserved buildings are truly impressive. But neither the pedestrian street Corso Umberto, adorned with luxury brands, nor the balconies on the facades were enough to make me ecstatic. Yes, you should visit it, but a day will suffice. I especially found the crowded pedestrian traffic & the hot sun repulsive. The gardens of Villa Comunale di Taormina, where we took refuge while trying to escape from this chaos, were a heavenly breeze. It is both adorned with Roman ruins and surrounded by wonderful gardens and the view is magnificent.

The bakery-like cafe that we went to did not disappoint us. We ate our Arancinos here; we liked the spinach and cheese one the most: Rosticceria Da Cristina 2 – https://maps.app.goo.gl/AdqrKJGLmDWdgR1H6 

There is also a cable car from the hills of Taormina to the beach. We saw it when we drove down the winding roads and reached the seaside. But there is a close island across from one of its few famous beaches that you can walk to: There is also a chapel on this island of Isola Bella. The water is cool and rocky, there is a public beach and facilities right by the sea, but a bit expensive.

Agrigento – Valley of Temples

Don’t leave Sicily without seeing this Valley of Temples. The city Agrigento, the richest of the Greek colonies of the period, built majestic temples on a hill, seven of which have been restored and can be visited. It is impossible not to be impressed as you proceed along the ancient road, spiced by the fallen Icarus, another work by Igor Mitoraj. We also realized how magnificent, rich, deep and ancient our Anatolian heritage is. As we do in every European trip, the fact that Turkey’s cultural and natural heritage does not hold the importance, attention and interest it deserves makes our hearts ache.

Villa Romana del Casale

Villa Romana del Casale is a Roman mansion that has been preserved as a whole since it was buried underground due to a landslide and it has been restored beautifully. We do have a lot of mosaics in Turkey too but it’s with the visit Especially bikini girls are very popular and famous. But I liked the big hall where mythological stories and eccentric animal mosaics are.

Etna National Park

When else can you come this close to an active volcano? It is a rare piece of nature and Etna National Park has wonderful trails where you can walk with well-equipped guides. Both the landscape is legendary and the shades on the earth from different Etna eruption periods are fascinating. It has a unique climate, so I recommend that you go prepared. There are also cafeterias and gşft shops selling volcanic stone ornaments. I regret not buying more of the red 70% alcohol  Etna liqueurs, what a delicious drink!

Noto

Another rich city… But this one is not so ancient. I recommend to set aside a day to wander the streets and visit the inside of a few Baroque architecture’s jewel-like buildings and mansions. The day we visited, a classic car tour was passing by here! What fun and commotion was watching the aunties and uncles in these vehicles straight out of the movies wave goodbye to us! We were lucky in both timing and finding a delicious break too…

Legendary arancinos are here: I loved the pistachio and cheese one… Rosticceria Palermitana Arancina Planet – https://maps.app.goo.gl/Gv99U1e6jV2nx7FP6 

The best ice cream I’ve ever had was here: Try the ricotta and pistachio one… Caffè Sicilia – https://maps.app.goo.gl/bax5kVj3sKRDEokv6 

Modica

This small city was founded at a junction where three deep valleys meet inland. You can climb the stairs or the steep slopes and view the baroque architecture and the valley. It is also home to Italy’s oldest cold-pressed chocolate makers and a chocolate museum. Although I can’t say it’s the best chocolate I’ve ever tasted you can shop for quality delicacies here: Antica Dolceria Bonajuto – https://maps.app.goo.gl/KyXWCRmxsvNeLmEY8  I ​​think half a day is enough for the city.

Marzamemi

This place is actually a small fishing town; but it’s famous for the fish restaurants around the tiny square that was preserved. We had dinner with excellent fish, shrimps and calamari pasta at the restaurant recommended: Al Boccone – https://maps.app.goo.gl/cJbZX7dMA7JKcnEJ8 

The City of Palermo

As I said, it’s the most cosmopolitan, most vibrant city on the island… Staying in the heart of Palermo, right in the middle of that famous marketplace allowed us to experience the chaos to the fullest. We came to the Chiesa del Carmine Maggiore Monastery guesthouse with the hope of an economical and clean accommodation. Monastery accommodations are a method widely used in Europe, especially in Italy. Usually, they do not upset the guests who have low comfort expectations, but we were a little bit disappointed this time. The building was shabby, the sheets were very thin, the hygiene was mediocre, and the comfort level was below average. Moreover, the market that setup at around 6 in the morning roamed until the evening with shouting, sometimes music and dancing. So I can’t say I would recommend it, but it was a different experience. When you left the room to go to the courtyard, the only area with internet reception, the picturesque beauty and serenity of the environment did carry a natural sense of enlightenment. It also had  a direct connection to the church and the bell tower. A breakfast consisting of croissants, jam, yogurt and coffee was not satisfactory. That’s why we preferred to eat from the vendors and shops in the market.

We took the Street Food Tour on the first day and ate the local flavors with a guide. During the half-day walk, we ate snacks standing or occasionally sitting at the famous places. We spent the rest of our time shopping at the market. I have to mention that the ricotta cheeses are legendary!

Of course, we visited most of the top tourist spots of Palermo. I am sharing them in the location list. But the Norman Palace and the famous chapel inside fascinated me the most… I have never seen such beautiful and magnificent mosaics. Moreover, the workmanship of the muqarnas decoration on the ceiling is a show

The archaeological museum and private museums are also beautiful, a better exhibition environment than the one in Syracuse. The buildings are also very enjoyable, and you can feel life in ancient times in the displays. I recommend seeing the giant Palermo Cathedral at night, especially for travelers who are tired of seeing baroque architecture; you can climb up to its illuminated roof and view the city. There is also a free special exhibition called No Mafia Museum; you can see the history of the mafia and its victims.

In short, although it did not astonish me visually and spiritually as other cities in Sicily and the chaotic energy, similar to Istanbul, is a bit tiring. But I would like to go to Palermo again to see the places  I missed & walk around the streets. Unfortunately the streets are very dirty, there is garbage everywhere. Palermo is also an impressive stop in Sicily. Moreover, there are now direct flights!

The Cauldron Issue

In fact, in the last part of the three-week route, we also visited the southern parts of the Italian mainland for a few days before going to Palermo. This land is also magnificent and consists of regions with their own characteristics. It is possible to go from the northern shores to the southern Mediterranean waters, from the west to the mountains of the east in a matter of hours. The atmosphere and energy of each is different. There are also plenty of ghost towns; the ones where the legends of buying a house for 5/10 Euros are famous. But I will not go into the details of this part of the trip; both because I do not feel I have done it justice to it. But I will share our route. I definitely recommend each of them.

Now, about the ladle of Sicily… In short, this rare piece of land that has been the cauldron of civilization in the Mediterranean does deserve your time. Whether you like history, food or nature, it is beautiful with a diverse culture. Although I stayed quite long, I could not quite succeed in visiting everywhere. But it was wonderful to be the ladle that tasted this cauldron of experience. I’ll go again!

Sicily May 2024 Route

Syracusa

Taormina 

Noto

Modica

Marzamemi

Agrigento – Valley of Temples 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/LPGY5Ku35jZyEPgQ6

Villa Romana del Casale

https://maps.app.goo.gl/uKwB3YjQt2RuYSFGA

Etna National Park 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/wmDCA6NGMci7VGTH7

Palermo 

Eating Out: 

Il Cambisone – https://maps.app.goo.gl/cSsxaTX65gVSzRsp9

Cefalu

Mainland: 

Cosenza

https://maps.app.goo.gl/1aNijYWHCd7j3Ewy5

Lago Arvo – Dağ Gölü & Lorica

https://maps.app.goo.gl/YNM3NmmBKZ5uAwkQ9

Rocceletta – Basilica di Santa Maria della Roccella

https://maps.app.goo.gl/dFt5okADEhiRp8Gb8

Stilo – Cattolica di Stilo 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/JkQV1dcszvj2EmS59

Tropea – Capo Vaticano 

https://maps.app.goo.gl/Uu2oFb8Q4uMUfiDk8

Pentedattilo (ghost town)

https://maps.app.goo.gl/VAvz5cKLDXQw5STU8

We could not go but we wanted to:

  • Ragusa
  • Agrigento Museo archeologico regionale Pietro Griffo
  • Selinunte
  • Sciacca
  • Lido Scala dei Turchi
  • Capo Bianco
  • Trapani
  • San Vito Lo Copo
  • Scopello
  • Terrasini
  • Reggio Calabria – Museo Archeologico Nazionale di Reggio Calabria
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The Furry Country: Vienna & Budapest

A New Year’s Fantasy…

Sunday concerts conducted by Hikmet Şimşek hold an important place in our generation’s childhood memories. Colorful memories of the same period include the funny philharmonic concerts conducted by Danny Kaye, which gave me and my peers a taste of classical music. Even though I’m not a real classical music fan, I’m quite familiar with it. Therefore, when my usual traveling companion Melike shared her dream of going to a New Year’s Eve Concert in Vienna, I said “come on!”

Of course, it doesn’t work like that… Vienna is an expensive destination in every respect. But Melike is a hardworking and determined woman even more than me! In summer, at the peak of hot July, when the airlines announced promotions, she immediately called me! During the previous campaign period, international tickets were not on sale, so we had consoled ourselves with Antalya and Konya tickets. This time the bite was big, so we attacked from both sides. Melike was successful again. Tickets to Vienna were out of reach, but we bought two return tickets to Budapest. And she had also looked up the Budapest – Vienna train schedule. Therefore, our plan was ready about 6 months before new year, at the height of the summer heat. We were going to fly to Budapest, taking the train to Vienna, staying here for a short time and enjoying the famous New Year’s Eve concert, and then returning to Budapest on the first day of the year for two or three days, hitting two targets with one flight.

Of course, time flew by… When the beginning of December came, we were a little sad that we did not reserve the accommodation in advance. Because the places were full and the prices had doubled! Fortunately, we and Melike’s sister, who decided to join our trip, attacked from three directions and found suitable accommodations for our budget. Moreover, the airline’s revision of flight schedules gave us the right to change the date of our promotional tickets free of charge. Thus, both the traveling group and the duration of the trip was expanded as 3 days in Vienna and 3 days in Budapest.

Before Going to Cold Lands…

Of course, winter can be harsh everywhere, but we had difficult moments of the cold in central and northern European cities before. Especially if you intend to wander the streets in the middle of winter like us! Also, if you do not have much luggage allowance on your promotional flight and will be traveling with only a cabin bag, planning is essential.

We carefully considered and discussed the things that should and should not pack for an efficient travel suitcase. We acted with the following notes:

  • A lightweight and long (certainly below the knee) fluffy coat that is resistant to all kinds of cold and rain – I bought a long, side slit, black on the outside and bright orange on the inside, which looked good in the photos.
  • Boots that will keep you warm, comfortable on long walks, and stylish enough for night parties (important point: no extra shoes) – I chose medium-sized snow boots with zippers.
  • Heaviest clothes should be worn on the road – I wore jeans and my fluffy fleece
  • A woolen shawl – I wrapped a blanket-type woolen shawl that matches the colors of the coat.
  • Thin underlayers for everyday and 1-2 spare sweaters – I brought 2 sweaters, but one with the fleece was enough.
  • A stylish option for New Year’s Eve – I couldn’t decide and brought two alternatives, but in the end I chose the comfortable one. So there is no need for the second one; decide up front.
  • As for the bags; a cabin type rickshaw suitcase, a comfortable but stylish medium-sized backpack instead of a shoulder bag and a small shoulder bag inside it.
  • Important note: If you don’t have specific shopping goals, don’t think ​​”I’ll buy it there if I need it”. Both Vienna and Budapest are expensive for shopping!

New Year’s Concert…

We had heard that the our dream (especially Melike’s) tickets for the Vienna Philharmonic New Year’s Eve Concert were very expensive. But we had also learned that the concert was broadcast live on giant screens in the city square and the festive streets. That’s why we didn’t bother with the concert first. But as the date approached, we wondered if we could find affordable tickets. Again, thanks to my friend’s determination and effort, we found a wonderful opportunity.

One of the small palace buildings in the city center of Vienna was converted into an event area for concerts and receptions. Small concerts were held in halls that looked luxurious inside and out. Apparently, city residents and tourists dressed up and enjoyed this splendor. The name of the place is Kursalon Hübner. And for New Year’s Eve, we bought a package for a concert between 22.00-23.30 and a fireworks show from the palace terrace with a glass of champagne at midnight for approximately 90 Euros per person.

Indeed, when we arrived at the event area around 21:00, we observed with astonishment that some of the guests came in evening dresses and tuxedos that would suit red carpets. Of course, there were also those who did not care for the atmosphere and came in their daily comfort clothes; some of them tourists. The majority of guests were dressed elegantly like us, but they were not posh like “the bride’s sister” at a wedding. It was very nice that the majority was Viennese of all ages who came to have a pleasant New Year’s Eve.

Unfortunately, the concert hall was not as huge and ornate as in the pictures. The area had probably been divided into concert, dining and dance sections. We confirmed this later when we had the opportunity to see other parts of the palace. Still, the stage was sufficient for the performance of a group of 9-10 musicians and 2 dancers or soloists. The seating consisted of chairs that were not very comfortable, but it was not unbearable. The entrance to the hall was through a single door, after a long wait, under the guidance of elegant ushers who did not rush at all.

The concert program was planned as a potpourri of popular classical music. It was compiled from pieces starring Vienna’s pride, Mozart and Strauss, that could appeal to all kinds of ears. Moreover, the accompanists who appeared on stage from time to time were exquisite… A tenor and a soprano opera soloist sang short arias, separately and together. A young ballerina and her slightly pot-bellied senior accompanist offered visual feasts of dance from waltz to ballet. The abundance of fun and rhythmic pieces did not tire the audience. After all, it was all very enjoyable. We laughed at the seniors in the audience who wanted to share the moment, because they were filming the back of guests rather than the performance. We considered it an advantage to be at the back of the hall and scored all the evening dresses.

After the concert ended half an hour before the new year, the guests were taken to the terrace in front of the hall in an orderly manner. Since we weren’t the only smart ones, we had to wait a long time in the cloakroom line before stepping out into the cold night. But we took our place in a secluded corner on the terrace with our champagne glasses in our hands before midnight. Thanks to our view overlooking a large park in the middle of the city, we had the opportunity to watch several firework shows in a row. Following the serial countdown of our presenter, a short but sparkling show took place right in front of us.

As the terrace got less crowded, we thought the guests were slowly dispersing. It turned out that there was another disco-lit hall with a dance floor and a small stage next door. We were excited to see people of all ages enjoying the music. We accompanied the evening dressed couples for a while. Our sweetest moments were watching the aunts and uncles dancing cheek to cheek, arm in arm wşth their shiny outfits. 

Vienna Impressions & Warnings…

While traveling around a city in Europe, every tourist has different approaches… Some are museum lovers, some are gourmets; some wander the streets, some shop. Some people like to play from every tune and visit the most famous venues of the city. There are now many blogs, travel guides, and tour programs online. That’s why I won’t tell you to see this and don’t miss this in Vienna. It is very easy to do a little research on the internet and make a choose-like model. And that’s what we did… But I can share a few tips that made it easier for us in our short three-day program:

  • You can easily mark the places you want to go on the map. This way, you will save time and it will be easier to spontaneously determine the closest route.
  • You can download your map, which includes the places you have marked, accommodation and transfer points, to your mobile phone so that you can use it offline. Thus, you can access it whenever you want.
  • Like us, you can get a virtual sim card by sacrificing one of you, so you can share the internet service in the group with an affordable budget. The only thing you need to pay attention to is that this data sharing is a bit battery consuming.
  • If there is a museum you definitely want to go to, try to buy your tickets in advance. Tickets sell out quickly in many famous museums in Europe. 
  • Since we are interested in cultural heritage and thanks to Melike’s passionate curiosity, we specifically targeted the museum where the ruins of Ephesus are exhibited. It may not be at the top of the popular museums, but it’s central and it’s easy to buy tickets at the door. Unfortunately, they are displaying the magnificent Artemis in a way she does not deserve. It was a little heartbreaking to see the treasures of Ephesus in a doorway, at the bottom of the stairs, without proper lighting or backdrop that revealed their charm. At least they wrapped up the topic with an exquisite site model and excavation photographs.
  • The city is quite crowded, especially during special times such as New Year’s Eve or even long weekends; There can be many queues everywhere. Consider waiting in line for restaurants and cafes or going to less popular places.
  • In some places, the staff may act as if they are from the palace aristocracy and are doing you a favor. Don’t get angry or just keep it to yourself. Most of the time, the service fee is added to the account. Walk away slowly, pretending that you didn’t leave a tip.
  • Yes, apple pies and schnitzels are amazing! Don’t leave without eating some. The city’s most famous schnitzel restaurant has two branches. One is bigger and you have a better chance of getting a table by waiting in line without making a reservation. We went on December 31, 15 minutes before it opened, at 11.15. We waited for about 20 minutes and ate at a wonderful table. Viennese schnitzel has pork and veal options here. The pork one is more famous and delicious. Portions are very fulfilling; you can even feed three people with two portions or order both for diversity. Do order the recommended potato salad on the side. But the cranberry sauce may not appeal to everyone; I liked it.

https://maps.app.goo.gl/K36fZC3TYGFkkCUUA

  • The streets were beautifully decorated for New Year’s Eve… Lights, food and drink kiosks, security corridors, music points; everything was planned perfectly. It was very enjoyable to spend time on the streets before and after the concert. Mulled wine, punch and various drinks were sold in mushroom-shaped mugs with the Vienna commemoration logos. You could keep it as a souvenir; so I carried one of them home.

Ultimately, my impression of Vienna is this…

You have to see it once; but is it an exciting destination for the heart? No. First of all, it is a cold city with a cold style. I think the most important reason is the scale of everything. All is disconnected from the humanist scale; everything is huge… Roads, buildings, palaces, columns, ceilings, buildings and the city is mostly in neoclassical style. This style seems very insincere and superficial to me. It’s like a pretentious imitation of the legacy of ancient civilizations such as Egypt, Greece, Mesopotamia and Anatolia. They look great from a distance but lack the real majestic beauty. If you are interested in 18th and 19th century art, crafts and architecture this will be satisfactory. But if you are from the motherland of these fake Corinthian columns and wall reliefs, it doesn’t impress that much.

But if you are an art lover, Vienna is a museum paradise. It does not contain as much as cultural capitals such as Berlin, London and Paris. But if Klimts, Renoirs and Picassos suit your taste, there is a very satisfactory collection. So, if I ever go to Vienna again, I can stay one or two more days and feed my art-loving appetite.

What about Budapest…

Again, it was very easy to travel around Budapest with the targets previously marked on our map. Important tourist locations are not too far from each other. I am listing the tips and suggestions with comments:

  • I recommend staying in a central location; you can go everywhere on foot. We stayed here; the encrypted key box, easy instructions, the quiet location in the most popular spot of the city and the comfort were satisfactory:

https://bpapartments4you.com/apartment/tk1jQmV8ulC2

https://maps.app.goo.gl/GerBb7wkv6UWgYHu9

  • Public transportation is very easy. We used buses a few times; There are ticket vending machines with English menus at almost every stop. Payment can also be made via credşt card for the transfer between the airport and the center.
  • Again, I think you should buy your tickets to big and popular museums in advance, famous painters have many adorers.
  • The National Hungarian Museum is a treasure that can be overlooked… We went early in the morning without buying a ticket in advance. There was still a queue but we got in easily. The treasury section is particularly impressive; located in the library section of the palace and the interiors were as impressive as the rare displays. In the divisions about Hungarian migrations, one could argue that “they are definitely Turks” 🙂

https://maps.app.goo.gl/ZFBaU6bXXVsE7aHM7

  • The Opera House is world famous and has exquisite shows. Tickets are sold out very easily; we couldn’t find any. They also sell a limited number of standing  tickets at 18:00 for every night, but that sells out too quickly too. If you go early and wait in line, it is worth the experience for the wonderful acoustics and the magnificent hall:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/acgVY36YmdqtsiSF7

  • If you want to visit the famous bridge, I recommend sunset time. The sun sets behind the hills, but if you’re lucky, you’ll be treated to wonderful colors with the Danube river. Moreover, if you walk across the bridge to the Buda side at this time, you can see the wonderful illuminated view of the city and the parliament building. It is possible to see a better view from the hilltop by taking the cable car; definitely worth the wait.
  • We thought we could shop for souvenirs easily in Budapest but we were wrong! In my opinion, Hungarian embroidery and all tourist items were more expensive than their worth. It was obvious from a distance that some of the embroidery is machine work. We can already find everything in Turkey and our defeat against the Euro is very sad… We even had difficulty finding something to buy in the largest market in Budapest. However, if you would like to see all kinds of souvenirs and delicatessen in one place:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/2HHB7ww6jfHw29Wu8

  • Red pepper sauce called Paprika, one of the hallmark flavors of Budapest, is very popular. It is sold everywhere; you can buy a more affordable one from the market. It’s not a very different taste for us Turkish people, but it has a nice nuance that lingers on the palate. Moreover, it can also be a nice gift.
  • If you love shopping or are especially fond of vintage stuff, then the hidden gems of the city will make you happy. There are multiple stylish vintage and second-hand stores in the centre. There are a variety of products, from quality used clothes to fun socks, leather bags and fur jackets. We lwere particularly happy with this:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/9FzABTRJEyayjBt6A

  • We found a shop for original Hungarian products in the center on our last hour.. Horn cups and ornaments, embroidered jewelry and clothes, leather bags and other decorated items made beautiful last-minute gifts with both their designs and inexpensive prices. It’s not exactly marked on the map, but it’s around here:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/stN5kCrjnzaJQSGEA

  • There is a place that offers almost all varieties of street food… You should try:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/PDpUzLnivHtGCLXK8

  • One of the best tastes we had was Artizan Bakery, a bakery-cafe that makes everything. The soup on the lunch menu, the sandwiches/salads that came with it, and the desserts were delicious. Careful because if you’re just as hungry as we were, there’s a risk of over eating:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/J72Md2jhrjyPkqyq6

  • The city is famous for its bars located in abandoned buildings. The most famous, largest and most entertaining one:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/HzXJ5id8K31kLBDH7

  • One night, we went to a sweet bar on our way… There were sweet waiters who gave you a deck of cards and directed us to choose among many cocktails from various flavors. This was a very fun experience; the venue was also very beautiful:

https://maps.app.goo.gl/LRmtheH8VSJQdQMW6

Result: 

Budapest was a more humane, fun and enjoyable travel route for me. In the center of cold Europe, there are huge buildings, huge streets and huge squares still; but both the architectural features and the city as a whole envelops you with its more humane scale. Especially its sweet roof tiles and shapes, tiny shops, detailed, intricately crafted facades like Hungarian embroidery and exquisite lights. The Danube river, decorated with its resemblances, does create a lasting impression.

Walking through these streets makes you feel like you are in a distant land. But more like being part of an exciting adventure rather than a frightening or disturbing experience. In fact, it feels quite like a fairy-tale to watch people skating from the bridge on the huge ice ring, set up on the edge of the giant square or to walk through the old gate in the city’s largest park and wander among the romantic buildings. Ultimately, in Budapest, even if I did not feel like I belonged, I felt like I belonged to the moment.

The Furry Country…

So you may ask “what’s with the fur?”. From the moment we set foot in Vienna, we noticed plenty of people wearing fur; women of all ages and some gentlemen too. Initially the classic models preferred by older women caught our attention. Then we realized that young girls were also wandering around in furs. First we thought it was probably due to the cold weather. But gradually we concluded that fur was making a comeback in fashion

It didn’t take long for us to realize that every major store had at least one fur on display. When we met a huge fur section in the vintage shop in Budapest, the heart began to want what the eye saw! A variety of second-hand fur clothes, from colorful vests to retro jackets, adorned the hangers.

I must admit that I have mixed feelings about the fur issue. Most of it is thankfully fake fur anyway. But slaughtering a living creature just to look beautiful is not my thing. The moral evolution of our civilization is already at this point too. On the other hand, fur was once essential for a sustainable healthy life with local resources in very cold climates. It may still be valid in some special cases. My real dilemma is what will happen to the furs of the past… For example, the ones made before fur became a moral impasse. And eventually, what should I do with the fur stuff I inherited from my aunt?

My trip to Vienna and Budapest led me to ask these questions once again. The stylish and elegant fur coats seemed more impressive with the cold weather. Finally, I decided to buy a vintage faux fur vest. I was happy, the shop owner was happy and my conscience remained clear. Moreover, I looked fabulous! There is a saying in Turkish from an old joke that tells the story of how looks can be deceivingly powerful even if fraudulent… “Eat my fur!”