Arrogant Kibyra

Kibyra stands alone a little out of the wayThe city sits proudly on a hilltop, a bit far from the coast and touristy sites. It’s two hours from Antalya, and about an hour each from Burdur and Denizli; nestled among the mountains in a town called Gölhisar.

But it deserves its arrogance to be honest… It should be proud of its magnificent mosaics that have been recently unearthed (especially the Medusa in the theatre), its magnificent settlement spread over the slopes of the hills and the hypnotic fountain that still runs today.

Because I was so impressed by the magnificent ruins of Kibyra at the Burdur Archaeology Museum earlier during my spring visit; I thought I absolutely had to visit it. So, after leaving Antalya and visiting Termessos, I arrived at the site in the latter half of the day. There are parking spaces on two levels; I parked at the higher one and followed the route down. It took me about two or three hours to explore the entire city. Finally, I hitchhiked up from the lower parking lot. At the end, I’d conquered two ancient cities on two mountains in one day; but they were the actual victors. Kibyra’s arrogant beauty was worth it!

Historical Information

The ancient city of Kibyra is located on three dominant hills separated from each other by deep cliffs in the Horzum neighborhood of the Gölhisar district of Burdur.

The city’s settlement area is quite extensive. The buildings are arranged symmetrically, with hilly terraces dominating the lake and plain views, ensuring that no structure obstructs the view of another. As you enter the city, on the left is a magnificent monumental gate and the most magnificent stadium in ancient Anatolia, with a capacity of 12,000-13,000 people.

As we proceed, we see the basilica, the upper and lower agora, the bathhouse, the gymnasium, the theater, the council building, a planned mausoleum, a bathhouse, a round-towered arch, and aqueducts. The council building/music house, with its capacity of 3,600 people, is one of the most magnificent works of ancient Anatolia. Located in the heart of the council building/orchestra, the Medusa Mosaic, made of red, green, and white marble, with its hair composed of snakes and its gaze that turns people to stone, is unique in Anatolia.

In 2011, a mosaic, covering 540 square meters and considered the largest and most intact mosaic site in Anatolia, was unearthed in front of the parliament building. Also in front of the parliament building was a Roman bathhouse and a ceramics workshop dating back to the Late Roman Period (6th-7th centuries AD). All the architectural remains visible in the city today date from the Roman Imperial Period.

Cibyra appears to have been under the rule of the Kingdom of Pergamum during the reign of Eumenes II (197-159 BC). Immediately thereafter, a four-party council (2nd-1st centuries BC) was formed, consisting of the ancient cities of Cibyra and its surroundings: Boubon, Balboura, and Oinoanda.

This league was dissolved and abolished by the Roman General Murena in 82 BC, and the province of Asia and other cities were incorporated into the Lycian League. The city, destroyed by a massive earthquake in 23 AD, was rebuilt by the Roman Emperor Tiberius. Cibyra experienced its most glorious period, particularly between the 1st and 3rd centuries AD.

Cibyra is renowned for its blacksmithing, leatherworking, pottery, and horse breeding. The city’s inhabitants were fiercely warlike. The parliament building, with its Medusa head and the largest and most intact mosaic area in Turkey in front of it, are noteworthy. Artifacts unearthed from Cibyra are on display at the Burdur Museum.

Source: Cultural Inventory, Ankara 2007

Kibyra Wiki Page HERE

Peaky Termessos

I visited Termessoss in October… It was the perfect time; the sun was warm enough, the shade was refreshing enough. I decided not to overdo my research not to have great expectations. But as I climbed the peaks, I was captivated; the site embraced me first with the beautiful nature, then with the amazing topographical layout & the glory of the ruins. The city stands high leaning against one peak and overlooking the other. At the top, I felt like a ruler and especially, while perched on the crest of that theater, the wind carried me away in historic dreams.

To reach Termessos, which is about an hour from Antalya city center, you travel northwest. Since my next destination was the ancient city of Kibyra, I left early in the morning and spent half a day there. I entered the national park by car, followed the winding road up, enjoying the stunning views, and parked at the parking lot where the official site begins. There are some ruins here, but to explore the main city, you’ll need to climb a path. I advise you to be physically prepared for some hiking (like shoes) and to be mentally prepared for the slopes. I did the entire route; at the end, I’d have walked approximately 8-10 km. Shorter routes are possible, but it’s worth the effort!

Termessos Historical Information

Termessos is an important ancient city, founded by the Solyms, descendants of the Luwians, one of the oldest peoples in Anatolia, in the valley between the peaks of Mount Solymos, today known as Güllük. It is one of the most striking archaeological sites protected within the forest and located within the National Park of the same name. Güllük Mountain (Termessos) National Park is a special region, home to both rich flora and endangered animals.

The city entered the historical scene when Alexander the Great laid siege to the city in 333 BC, and the Termessians put up a strong defense, refusing to surrender. After Alexander’s death, the city was taken by the Ptolemies. In 189 BC, the Termessians, who captured the neighboring city of Isinda, were punished by Manlius Vulso, Commander of the Roman Forces in Anatolia, following a complaint from the people of Isinda. It is likely that a war was also taking place between Termessos and the Lycian League around the same time. In 71 BC, the Roman Senate recognized and confirmed the independence of Termessos, which had established a “friendship and alliance” with Rome, and the right to make its own laws.

It is known that Amyntas of Galatia ruled Termessos, along with other cities in Pisidia, from 36 to 25 BC. The city maintained its independence during the Roman Imperial period, as evidenced by the coins it minted. No information is available about the city’s status during the Byzantine and subsequent periods. Termessos witnessed no new settlement after its abandonment, and, apart from earthquakes and natural damage, it remains a remarkably intact and well-preserved site.

Termessos boasts numerous temples and extensive cemeteries. The variety and richness of its tombs are remarkable. Among these, the tomb of Alketas (319 BC), a prominent commander during the reign of Alexander the Great, and others are also important for shedding light on the city’s history. In addition to the monumental tombs, numerous sarcophagi with shield motifs depicting warriors occupy a significant area of ​​the cemetery. The most interesting artifact from Termessos in the Antalya Museum is the Dog Sarcophagus, displayed in the Hall of Sarcophagi. The poetic inscription, written by the owner of a dog named Stephanos, is particularly significant for its uniqueness.

Termessos, with its settlement and defensive systems, has been one of the cities that best utilized the resources offered by nature. Güllük Mountain-Termessos National Park, designated a World Heritage Site for its natural and cultural values, has been on the UNESCO World Heritage Tentative List since 2000.

Source: “Termessos” Antalya from Past to Present [Volume II], Antalya Provincial Directorate of Culture and Tourism (2012)

Termessos Wiki Page is also HERE.