Northern Greece Route by Land

9-day Northern Greece route by car from Ipsala, Turkey. 

Chapter #1 – Thrace

Setting out in August was a mistake. It was a busy holiday, so it was crowded everywhere and the borders were especially busy. We arrived at İpsala from Keşan at 5 a.m., but it still took us three hours to cross. We heard those arriving behind us at 6 a.m. had to wait seven hours! In any case, we made the best of it by setting off on Friday evening, staying overnight in Erikli so we split the distance and rested and we still managed to cross the border in the best possible period.

Food recommendations in Keşan:ÖZ-EN ET RESTAURANT

Episode #2 – Kavala & Philippi

After breakfast and some fresh air in Kavala, we continued to Philippi, one of the most important ancient cities of the region.

The scene of a very important battle, Philippi Archaeological Site spreads over a wide area and there is a small but valuable museum; Archaeological Museum Of Philippi definitely worth the visit.

Chapter #3 – Thessaloniki

Thessaloniki Ataturk House was closed for renovations when we were there, but it will be reopened on November 10th this year.

The ruins within the city are worth a wander around the streets; the most beautiful ones are:Arch of Galerius and the Alexander pilgrimage statue overlooking the sea:Alexander Monument.Sunset on the dock is a must…

Food recommendations:Balconaki or Kazaviti Thessaloniki

Part #4 – Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki

A must-see with its excellent collection: Archaeological Museum of Thessaloniki We devoted long hours to this; especially to the treasures of the Macedonian tombs!

Chapter #5 – My Grandfather’s Hometown, Serres

We started with the Old Bedesten / Archaeological Museum:Archaeological Museum of Serres (Bezesteni)

Serres, the happy city… Although we arrived at noon on Monday, everywhere was bustling with life and people. Everyone looked cheerful and elegant. When I asked the lady at the exhibition if today was a special day, she said it was always like that here! At that moment, we all decided it was a city worth living in.

Even though I could not find any trace from my ancestors, I wrote a letter to my grandfather in the visitor’s book at Zincirli Mosque:Cultural Exhibition Space “Zintzirli Mosque”

Before returning, we bought Serres ouzo from a local producer, and the shop was as beautiful as the ouzo.

Chapter #6 – Thassos Island

There’s a ferry that departs regularly, not from Kavala city but from the town beyond; we decided to cross here with our car. But it was complete chaos! A team unprepared for the August crowds, long lines, and improper ticketing meant a long wait. But on the way back, we managed to cross early in the morning and avoid the crowds.

There are ruins everywhere on the island; for example Gate of Zeus & Hera or Ancient Agora of Thasos or Sanctuary of Heracles But I don’t recommend going up to the Acropolis because there is no road to follow.

Thassos is ideal for a day of sea, sun, and cocktails. But beware of the August crowds; there are also many Turkish visitors!

For dinner, this place has a beach in front of it and the food is delicious:Ftapodi Thassos

Here is a recommendation for a perfect bar for a break on the rocks at the very tip of the island: Karnagio Beach Bar

Episode #6 – Archaeological Museum of Thassos

One of the best Greek Island Museums, I definitely recommend visiting:Archaeological Museum of Thassos

A restaurant with a delicious atmosphere and food, located in a unique village square on the west side of the island, high up in the hills:Kazaviti

Episode #7 – Thasos Panagia Village

I think you should not leave without seeing the Fountain of Love and the village with canals: Panagia

Chapter #8 – Alexandroupoli 

Zona Archaeological Site An ancient city near the town of Makri, west of Alexandroupoli. It’s relatively unknown because it’s newly excavated, but its seaside location and compact route make it worth a visit.

Alexandroupoli Archaeological Museum has a small but very impressive collection, I recommend you not to miss it.

Chapter #9 – Samothrace Island

Because the ferry was so small, we couldn’t find tickets for the car, so we rented one there.

Street strolling in Chora:Old Samothraki It is a must to wander the streets and buy souvenirs from small designer boutiques or donkeys.

Delicious restaurant recommendations with traditional flavors:Tavern 1900 or Aretsa

Chapter #10 – Samothrace Waterfalls & the Sea

Waterfall walk & diving into the cool waters:First Fonia’s Waterfall It’s an easy route, about 1-1.5 hours’ walk away; and it flows beautifully even in August.

Don’t leave without buying some Samothraki cheese:TYPOCOMEO

Chapter #11 – Samothrace Sanctuary & Museum

The Ancient Samothraki Settlement & Sanctuary is an ancient initiation center. Its museum is small but exquisite:

Archaeological Museum of Samothrace ve Sanctuary of the Great Gods

Result: I Will Come Again

We combined weekends to complete a nine-day Northern Greece route, trying to balance the benefits of relaxation with maximum efficiency. For our culture-enthusiast team, we balanced our visits to archaeological sites and museums with stops at the seaside and waterfalls. We weren’t able to visit the Macedonian tombs we planned because they were undergoing restoration. Therefore, we intend to go on another Greek Macedonia route, where we can both visit them and explore the blue waters on other shores. 

But Thessaloniki is a beautiful city; it’s always worth visiting. Serres was a big surprise, and I’d love to go back and explore the other smaller towns nearby. Alexandroupoli is just around the corner, a stopover on any itinerary. I’d prefer to visit Thassos again in spring, rather than during peak season. Samothrace, on the other hand, is a very different island; it’s not for everyone, but it always draws me in.

I Could Swim Here: Meis Island for a Day Trip

By swimming or by boat?…

If you have been to Kaş, you know that Meis Island is one of the closest Greek islands to our coast. For those who enjoy open-water swimming, the Kaş-Meis route may also be familiar. Therefore, swimming from Kaş to Meis is technically possible. But I don’t recommend it as a transportation method… 🙂

Instead, I recommend choosing one of the ferry companies in Kaş center, buying your ticket, paying the port taxes (both ports charge separately – currently Kaş 130 TL, Meis 5 Euros) and your international departure fee (for Turkish citizens only). The ticket price (25-30 Euros) and the travel time (25-30 minutes) are directly proportional to the island’s proximity.

I’ve heard that some people prefer to take a boat tour instead of the ferry. While it might be tempting to skip the hassle of transfers, I opted for individual travel. The small town where the ferry docks in Meis, the two other destinations are accessible only by sea: the Blue Cave and St. George Beach. I’ll go into more detail later, but small boat taxis can easily and frequently take you to and from both. Furthermore, you can determine the timing and how long you’ll stay on the island where the beach is located.

Things to see…

Meis Island is quite small, so don’t expect a long list. However, the town center where you disembark is so charming that how much time you spend wandering the streets is entirely up to you. Here are a few attractions:

  • Meis town… Be sure to take a tour among the buildings painted in candy like colors. I recommend diving inland into the narrow streets.
  • There is a Lycian Tomb… It’s not exactly spectacular, but since we’re wandering around the island, why not? The road is beautiful, and there’s a stunning view behind the island. It’s not a very long climb, either.
  • A must-see place in Meis is the Blue Cave a sea cave at the back of the island. It’s accessible only by boat from the harbor and can be entered before high tide and during calm seas. But the interior is vast and magnificent; I think it’s a must-see.
blue cave
  • At a point closer to the port, on two interconnected islets stands Saint George Beach. Access is again only from the water. However, small boats depart from the harbor and take you to the Blue Cave, take a short tour and then drop you off there. They’ll pick you up whenever you want. So you can sunbathe on cushioned wooden loungers and enjoy the aquarium-like water on this lovely beach by the sea. Even in October, the water was magnificent. I paid 10 euros for a lounge chair and 5 euros for a Fredo Cappuccino; I don’t think it’s too much for a place like this.
saint george beach

Daily or overnight stay?…

Of course, it depends on the person and the circumstances… But I stayed in Kaş and went back and forth for the day. I took the 9:30 a.m. ferry; there’s also an 11:00 a.m. For my evening return, I chose the earlier option of 4:00 p.m. or 11:00 p.m. Because:

  • It was off-season, so accommodation in Kaş was more affordable. Accommodation options in Meis were relatively limited, so it was a bit more expensive.
  • My schedule only allowed for one day and I actually saw the entire island. But if I had the time, I’d have loved spending a full day at that stunning beach and wandering the island’s streets for longer. It would have been perfect for a relaxing weekend, and perhaps a chance to get a little accustomed to the island’s rhythm.
  • I had a delicious meal on the dock at noon. Without any research, I just sat where I felt like. The seafood, like on every island, was fresh and well-prepared. But if I’d stayed overnight, I’d have had a long, ouzo night out.
meis lunch
meis flower

After all… If you have limited time, a Daily Meis tour is very satisfying. But if you live nearby or if you are rich in time; a long week end would be perfect.

meis cat

Is Rhodes Really a Greek Island?

The Popular Destination

Rhodes is a huge island at the far east of mainland Greece… But it really doesn’t look like a Greek island. When you first step in, Rhodes city welcomes you with its imposing castle, the legacy of the knights,and it is very different from other Greek islands with its environment & ambiance

The center of Rhodes, where the medieval style dominates, has nothing to do with the well known image of the Aegean islands. You’ll seek in vain to see white houses with blue painted window sills. You may find the closest to this postcard-style in Lindos, the southern jewel of the island, but even this place does not fit into that common stereotype. 

The locals of the island, built on the ancient trade routes of the Mediterranean, are a diverse mixture and therefore the culture is very colorful. Moreover, it is a highly preferred destination and attracts flocks from all over the world from giant cruise ships to buzzing air traffic, so the streets are always full of tourists.

There are ferries from Bodrum, Marmaris and Fethiye ports in Turkey. The journey takes between 1.5-3 hours depending on the location. We crossed on foot from Fethiye, which is a quite small port; we had to wait a bit in line, but it was quick. The port of Rhodes itself is very large but has a very disorganized system; Still, we progressed quickly through the gates. In my opinion, there is no need to go to the port early either on departure or return. But just so you know, you pay an extra port tax of up to 20 euros in both directions, in addition to the ticket. 

Where to Stay?

You can stay anywhere on the island; the shores are full of hotels of all kinds. Facilities, beaches and water sports centers are lined up as you exit the airport on the north to the center. A similar variation exists on the southern coast, especially around Lindos. 

Your preferences are important when it comes to choosing a place because there is plenty of variety. It depends on whether you want to dive into the sea as soon as you leave your room / house or feel like a traveler going through the portals of history. Personally, I prefer to stay in the throbbing heart of the places I visit, where I can get a little bit of everything. I get soaked in the culture, from site seeing to shopping, from food to museums. Especially if we are going to stay for a long time, we choose houses where we can get comfortable with our own kitchen. Therefore, we rented a house for a week inside the old town in Rhodes.

We also rented a car to travel all around the island. But beware, only those who live there can permanently park their cars inside the old town walls. So it is not possible to park right in front of your residence while staying in the old city. However, it is very easy to park somewhere nearby and walk a little. 

Alternatively, you can try the area around Lindos to stay somewhere closer to the beach. This area has beautiful beaches, marine life and creamy water. Moreover, Lindos center, built on the old settlement and right next to the acropolis, is a pleasant environment with its white-painted houses and narrow streets that remind you of old Bodrum. 

Choose As You Please

You can go to Rhodes for any combination of culture & history / nature & sea / gastronomy / shopping options. Or if you choose option D like me, that is all of them; here is the list: 

  • Culture & History:
    • Rhodes Castle and Medieval City: Whether you walk around it or wander its streets; By all means, I recommend spending at least one day here. It is a must to sip a caffeinated or soft drink in one of the venues with a courtyard. 
  • Rhodes Quartet: You do not need to allocate the same time to each of these four, but their tickets are sold jointly, so it would be better to buy a combination. It’s all very close anyway.
  • Archaeological Museum: The building itself is exquisite and so are the pieces inside. We finished it in half a day, but you can even spend from an hour to a full day there. Moreover, it has cute gardens and a sweet cafe with delicious portacolapita.
  • Rhodes Cathedral: A short visit is enough, but the place is impressive. The tickets are not sold separately. 
  • Museum of Decorative Artsi: Small but beautiful pieces; a short but satisfying visit. 
  • Rhodes Acropolis Archaeological Park: We went there to complete our pilgrimage, but it wasn’t very impressive. The temple is hardly standing, and other restorations are mediocre. You can walk around in an hour. 
  • Lindos Acropolis and Settlement: The most impressive remains in the island; Although the structures are partially standing and the restoration is still mediocre, the site is breathtaking with its panoramic location. Moreover, the winding road up to it, the ancient ship relief on the walls and the exquisite view of the temple are all worth the climb. Although you can take a donkey ride from the square too, I think it is worth walking. From the temple, you can watch the turquoise waters on one side and the buzzy streets of the ancient settlement on the other. 
  • Kamiros Ancient City: The three sons of the titan god Helios, who is also the symbol of Rhodes in mythology, and his wife Rhodes founded three separate cities on the island. This third one is an archaeological park on the northern shores, about 1 hour away from the center. It is not really exciting like Lindos, which is a town still alive. But it is not as dull as the acropolis of Rhodes; it’s somewhere in between… If you have time, you can spare a few hours or make a stop on the northern route. 
  • monasteries: As in every Greek island, there are many monasteries on the hills overlooking the view. Since we did not come across anything with a particularly historical or structural importance, we chose one at random on our way. From where we parked, we went up a long, steep hill and then climbed a staircase of 300 steps. You will like a place if you make all that effort! In the Virgin Mary Chapel We planted two candles, whistled to the panorama and went back down. 
  • Nature & Sea:
    • Rhodes City Beaches: City beaches, which you can easily reach even by walking, are both practical and enjoyable. We found a very comfortable place to relax on a weekday. The water was great too; it was a great way to enjoy the rest of the day after wandering around the city. The north side may be a little windy and wavy depending on the weather, but once you turn south from the little cape, the sea becomes calm.
    • Anthony Quinn Koyu: I’ve never swum in a natural aquarium like this before! The rocky bay beach gets shaded quickly due to the narrow and steep slopes. But it definitely deserves to be popular at all times of the year. It’s a great place to swim among giant flocks of sea bream and watch all kinds of aquatic creatures. The most expensive sun lounger and umbrella prices on the island are here; but laying a towel on the shore is free.  
  • Tsambika Beach: There are multiple facilities on this long sandy beach. Both the water sports section at one end and the nude beach section at the other are among the options. Although the water basin is not as lively as Anthony Quinn Bay, the marine life is still beautiful. But the water is so soft and feels so good that it made us wonder if we were in a spa. Actually, all the waters of island feel good but this place was the best. 
  • Prasonisi Beach: This is the southernmost tip of the island. Like the north, it has two different shores on both sides; but the contrast is greater here.At the north shores, a wide variety of surfing and windy sports are performed. The south side is quieter and more peaceful, but still offers some pleasant eye candy of surfers.
  • Lindos Beach: This is a place to kill two birds with one stone… We didn’t go down, but it looked nice. Be careful it might be a little crowded; the evenings are calmer. 

Followers of Vedat Milor

I love hunting for local flavors from various sources wherever I go. But the ones I trust most and follow with enthusiasm are Turkish gurme Vedat Milor’s recommendations. Before going to Rhodes, we listed the spots he mentioned. I am adding our own discoveries to it here… 

  • TAMAM Restaurant: This is a wonderful place; Tamam did not only met the expectations we heard from Mr. Vedat, but exceeded them. Green salad, cheese salad, mushrooms with white wine, octopus with orange sauce, lamb and pork… all were excellent flavors.  Moreover, the treats of the owner, Mr. Andreas, to our vegan friends made a great impression on the table. And homemade orange liqueur was the most amazing liqueur I’ve ever tasted! My only reason for deducting one star from the place is the plastic greens on the roof. It’s not obvious from afar, but I wish they were real. Still, it’s the only place on the island we went to eat for the second time!
  • Stegna Kozas: We found legendary flavors of Mr.Vedat’s taste here, too. For example, I have never tasted such a delicious fish egg dish in my life! The calamari with ink sauce and the shellfish plate called “orgasm” were both excellent. Frankly speaking, the fish was a bit too much both in terms of quantity and price; It makes more sense to order more of the appetizers here. It was the most expensive place we went to. We paid 60 E per person, but frankly we ate too much. 
  • Mageirotechneio Taverna Paraga: This is a gem right in the middle of the island, in the mountains at its heart. We were a little late because we spent too much time at the beach. If we had gone earlier we could have enjoyed the magnificent view longer. Moreover, we came across a deer on the road and made eye contact with it. And later a gazelle appeared right in front of uson the road! The drive was long but the taste was definitely worth it. The best lamb tandoori I have ever tasted in my life was here. Everything was delicious, especially their own special bread kinds. Our host was very gracious and sincere. I would come back to Rhodes just to eat here again.
  • Peskesi Greek Cuisine: It is a modest but delicious establishment on the north shore of the city, where you can enjoy watching the sunset. The steamed mussels were amazing. 
  • Zebrano Cafe Restaurant Bar: It’s a magnificent place right next to the museums and attached to the wall of the cathedral. Examining the details of the buildings and sitting in the shadow of the exquisite vines and flowers surrounding them relaxes you so much. We didn’t have the opportunity to eat the first time, but the courtyard was so attractive that we went again. I recommend stopping by, even just for a drink. 

The Island Thing

Rhodes deserves to be an attractive destination… It is perfect for both culture, nature and sea tourism. But that’s exactly why it’s a bit too touristy. There is still the opportunity to escape the crowds and have original experiences. I really recommend going at the end of the season, not in the summer; maybe October. Even then there were times when we were exhausted by the heat. But the planning of the towns allows you to make your own discoveries by frequently escaping to small stress from the main ones even in crowded areas. 

We traveled as a group of girls and Rhodes impressed each of us the most with its water quality! The sea, the river, the water flowing from the shower… The feeling of the water was so soft and relaxing that it amazed us all. After a week on the island, our hair and skin were so beautiful that it was as if we had a spa experience. One of us even said he would settle here just for the water! 

But I cannot say that Rhodes is impressive as a whole spatial experience and it does not fit the classical image of the Greek islands. I might say it is not similar to a fashion show that blows your mind or a giant concert that you sing along or scream to. It’s more like a huge store where you can find stylish pieces that fit you perfectly. Or like the celebrity festival where the idols you admire sing a few songs. Of course, the medieval festival we came across at the weekend during our stay added to the excitement of our adventure… Being in Rhodes in the first week of October is lucky in this respect; you can make a note of that. 

After all, Rhodes is so different that I think it is not right to compare it with other Greek islands. Starting from the castle, which welcomes you with its strong masculine energy as soon as you set foot, we felt like we were in another mainland country throughout our journey rather than a Greek Island fantasy. Even though we had the opportunity to make a roundtrip around it, it was not possible to experience every point in depth of course. However, I can say that it was a a satisfying vacation.